Captain 80s

Also confirms you have terrible taste in bikes.

Should I marry her? No. Not a chance. Are you fucking crazy? We're engaged!!! Just bustin' your balls. Enjoy the journey again, looks pretty fucking nice.

At this point, do what you want. But I think the opinions you came for have been pretty well expressed.

They can wonder what's up and it can be explained. My well cared for 1998 is red, I have a good amount upgrades and don't want to start over. Im tired of red. Here's a sweet low mile 2000 that is now red. Here's all the pics when I had the bodywork off. You like red? Cool, let's talk. Not hard.

Could actually be from a NEWER year. The nut changed from 93 to 94. And the 90-93 axle superceded to the 94 part number.

And maybe it's just the angle, but your rear tire looks low and severely cupped.

Chinese bodywork is not part of the best of any world. He has a chance to buy the color he wants, swap over OEM bodywork onto the better (imo) year, and sell the now red one. And be WAY ahead money wise. Might even make money.

Ok.... there ya go. Fuck, I'd swap the body work ALL DAY LONG. And any other doo-dad that is nicer. Cheapest OEM paint job EVER.

Why don't you tell us why you want to make the move? Maybe there's an emotional aspect, or a perceived advantage, I'm not seeing.

Don't get me wrong. the 00-01 works great and is a lovely bike. But given a choice, even with more miles (which is nearly irrelevant on a VFR), I'd take the 98-99 every damn time. Less shit to go wrong and it just adds weight and complexity. And yours looks excellent. I see ZERO reason to "upgrade".

Well my name is probably a clue. Just more bullshit on the same bike and nothing "improves" it. Give me Fuel Injection, that's fine. But I'll stick with just a analog high idle lever thank you. Keep your stupid "wax unit", I've been on the end of a "choke" lever my whole adult life. I think I can handle it. Sure the exhaust is just mild steel. That's fine, I don't ride in salt water, and I'll get it coated. But you can keep your catalytic converter (and associated hardware, software), even if it is made out of stainless. Besides the stupid Linked Brakes (yes, yes... I know the system works great, I've ridden plenty), the 98-99 is as close to a pure "modern" (re: FI) gear driven cam VFR you can get. Linked brakes, with secondary masters, proportioning valves and 2 miles of hose, belong on a fucking Gold Wing,

I would rather have an excellent 98-99 with 30k than a 00-01 with 3K.

The shop didn't do its job. The work, the running evaluation, or the test ride. Something is still blocked. It can't be ignition if applying "choke" helps. If it seems better/ok at quarter throttle or more, perhaps a slow speed circuit is still blocked. I can count the number of people I trust to do a proper V4 clean on my bikes on one hand. And the first 3 fingers are me, myself and I.

Shit, glad you're OK! Hopefully the bound up chain didn't do any damage around the counter shaft area. The nut likely was not torqued and/or staked properly following a service (perhaps replacing the dampers?). The nut on my "new to me" Honda Hawk GT was loose and I could wiggle it back and forth, but the staking prevented it from coming loose. I have read other single sided swingarm owners with similar stories about finding a loose nut.

The 9 has always been the Kawi I would want to own. Very cool.

Resistance checks are not definitive. I've had good Reg/Rect test bad, and bad ones test good. It sure sounds like you have a failing Reg/Rect if your battery is truly in good shape. Of course there's other possibilities, but if EVERYTHING else checks out ok, it's where I would start. Good luck.

You can't "adjust" the lever for play on a hydraulic clutch. Somebody is full of shit.

Both of our cats "died" in the last Seattle heat wave we had...

I've had good results with Stant caps. 10227 13lb - 0.9 bar 10223 16lb - 1.1 bar The only issue I had was on a 1986 VFR where the filler neck was not in the best shape and it just didn't want to seal. I installed a Honda one and it sealed. There's also some Napa part #s that are Stant: BK7031695 - 13 lbs BK7031712 - 16 lbs They are a classic style cap with the ears, not round. I had to trim them down on one of my VF1000. Also double check the angle of the tangs that apply the pressure when you "tighten" the cap, I've had one that needed some adjusting (And doing that still didn't help on the above mentioned VFR).

Congrats!!

Not even. Aside from the huge gloves she puts on (and tries to adjust), you can tell how she mounts the bike. When was the last time I got on the bike and left it on the side stand to start? Probably never. I was actually surprised the helmet strap was secured. To be honest I didn't finish the video. I can get a VFR fix from better sources.

I like that. I actually did it on a hard to find VF1000R shifter that was mangled, but it was my own "design". Worked great. Next time I will countersink the back for a cleaner look from above. I drilled and tapped the lever, but ran a slightly longer button head with a super thin nut on the back for a little piece of mind (with a touch of loctite).

You mean exactly what I said the first time? ; - ) I guess I did say to use a vise too (implying remove it). But I would have corrected a couple issues on that lever in just a few more minutes.

Normally that's exactly what I would do on a customer parking lot tip-over (or the right size tube or an old closed end wrench for better leverage). But he stated he was concerned about putting force on the welded repair. Still easy as pie.

You don't have to bend at the weld at all. You can manipulate it with two large crescent wrenches, a vise and a torch. Grab it right behind the weld on the arm and use the second wrench for twisting leverage on the first wrench if needed. The same method anywhere else to compensate on the final position. And it doesn't need to be red hot, just a little heat to make it happier. I could have that back and painted in 15 minutes.