Captain 80s

You can get them on eBay for about $30 if you don't wanna make your own from the hard lines fittings you are removing. 6-Sigma Block Plates - eBay It's not complicated at all. Just plugging any EXTRA vent or vacuum ports / lines that are left over. Seeing the pile of junk on the floor when you're done is very gratifying. The biggest problem people have is not being able to identify what is a vent or vacuum and what is supposed to remain routed or what is extraneous from the PAIR and/or CA emissions. A methodical, logical approach makes it easy. At least in my experience, but I've probably done more than 10 now, easy.

New wheel to replace the 8 spoke. 2002 5.5". Pretty sure I will need to machine some reliefs for the rotor nuts, no big deal. Regardless if I keep this bike or not, the 8 spoke wheel will likely not be staying on it. Low mile 1993 shock so I can remove the Fox TC. 1992-93 shocks got aluminum lower clevises with rebound adjustment. The Fox shock will likely not be returning either, I have other plans maybe. In any case it needs to come out for a cleaning and service.

I've dealt with worse. This is the left rear carb. Carbs are apart. The outside is pretty nasty, but the insides all look pretty damn good. I'm not going to break the carbs apart right now. They will get a full cleaning and bench synch only. The needles were shimmed, pilots are stock at 38 (for CA) and the mains are still #130 (49 & CA). I think the boots will be supple enough with some heat to re-install just to verify how the engine sounds. Then some decisions will be made, like coolant o-rings and alternative jetting. With all the extraneous shit removed around the carbs, they come out pretty easy. V of the motor with 70K miles and then sitting in some weather for a few years. Not pretty.

Goodbye 5 pounds of bullshit. Pulled the carbs and removed the emissions / PAIR CRAP. Later I will remove the hard lines from the heads and use the fittings to create block off plates. Since I can't get to the rear right now I just decided to loop back on themselves, which I've done before.

I do it pretty much all trial and error, measuring the application and then fitting samples, adjusting as needed. I'm just starting to get into RC36 (I have a 95 and now a 90), haven't got into these carbs all the way yet. The float bowl o-rings should be -041. They are on all of my other Honda V4s. Fuel cross-overs are 7x2mm on my other bikes. Can't remember the vent cross over o-rings sizes off the top of my head. Maybe head over to V4 Dreams and check out what he has. Awesome resource.

I source my parts individually. Viton o-rings for the float bowls and fuel / vent cross over tubes. Genuine Keihin jets as needed. Keyster makes decent stuff, but It's still a crap shoot about what you're actually getting. I personally would rather not spend money on "kits" when I might get one or two usable things out of it.

1990 VFR750F. Bought two days before xmas, 2021. From the OfferUp ad: 1990 Honda VFR 750 $1 Description Needs 1 small part. Make offer or trade. Well... shit. DON'T need another bike. But I gotta inquire. Message the dude thru OfferUp: "Is the title in your name? When was the last time it ran?" Response: "It just needs one small part" "Yeah. I read that. Are you the titled owner and how long since it has ran?" "Yah, I got the title. A few years. Started dumping fuel out of this part when I was trying to start it" OK then, we got some info to go on now. I call him and we talk and he seems like a decent dude. I tell him normally I would just come out and look and talk to you in person. But it was a pretty good trek to check it out, so I tell him that and ask, "so... what do you think you wanna get out of it?" "I don't know, five hundred bucks. I'd probably take 400, I just wanna get back some money I put into it before it got parked." It's on. We make arrangements for DEC 23rd, my first day off for the Holidays. It's a ferry ride over to Kingston with a trailer, so a $30 tab there. Then down the peninsula to Port Orchard. Couple hours easy. Get there and it's a beauty day, so I'm able to roll it out of the spot you see in the above pic. First thing... Fox Twin Clicker. Good start. The 8 spoke wheel is probably worth what I'm paying anyway, so no risk really. It's all there. Tank is off, but it is drained and 100% clean on the inside. Fuck yes. Original Honda key, owner's manual and tool kit. Asked about a seat cowl and he just looked puzzled... "never mind". New chain and sprockets (chain is pretty rusty). Essentially brand new (5 years ago) Michelin Pilot Power tires. Steel braided lines up front. 70K miles... doesn't really matter on these engines. Look down at the shiny oil filter and pop the dipstick. Oil looked like it just came of a bottle. Cool. It got ridden home from the shop and pretty much parked. Notice the drain plug and adjacent oil pan has been drilled... that actually makes me happy. It means somebody might have gone thru the front end to match the rear shock at some point for a track day or few. The forks feel like they have real springs in them and somebody updated to the later fork caps with pre-load adjustment. He shows me the "one small part" it needs. "I think it's some kind of fuel separator or something". I am playing dumb. "yeah? huh." It's a plastic vacuum valve with a broken nipple for the emissions that is gonna end up in the trash anyway. "Fuel was coming out of that broken off part". I know it's just dirty carbs at this point. "you said you'd take $400?" "yep" Exchange money and title / bill of sale and load it up. Not pretty but hey. Every piece of bodywork has issues, but that tank is really nice. Oh yeah, a Corbin... whatever. Decide to make it a big round trip and drive around thru Tacoma (over a toll bridge) and back up thru Seattle. I left around 9am and got home around 3pm. Pretty good day. At least it was a beautiful day for driving. Here's back home after a quick strip. So the winter plan is to clean the carbs and get her running. The carbs are already out and while not great they are not terrible. Very doable. I already have the PAIR system and emission crap eliminated. I bought a 2003 rear wheel to replace the 8 spoke for personal use on my 95 (likely). Then go thru the systems and make it ride-able. Brakes front and rear are sticking and need to be serviced. Hopefully the pistons aren't pitted. Flush the coolant system. I'm sure the fork seals are gonna start leaking the next time I just look at them. I have a plan for adapting a slip-on (D&D), I think it's gonna work perfect. Stock 1993 shock on the way (w/ rebound damping) so I can remove the Fox for rebuild (it still passes the critical seat-bounce test we all learned on showroom floors). New inner / rear fender to replace this hacked unit. Try and go thru the bodywork to make it mount better and look more presentable. Gonna modify the passenger peg brackets to remove the peg portions.

Holy Fuck that's nice. Congrats. I would have been driving more with the rear view mirror than the windshield. Good job on the transport, but I hope you had the front wheel strap wrapped with something. I agree with bmart on the angle, more forward helps keep them in place, but you lose a little side to side stability. That's why the Canyon Dancer is a great option in my strap bag when I don't have a plan for a bike because it's new to me, or it's an unfamiliar trailer or truck.

I think things got mismatched in the breaker garage. That is no Honda lower clamp that I have ever seen.

The seller has other RC36 parts off of the bike. It's not a dirt bike.

94 - 97 is steel too. 98 - 01 is also steel. After that they were 43mm(?) and they were still steel.

That's the double wrap I sometimes do on grips.

It has them.... they are slid in and rotated forward under the seat in a tray (very likely). Pretty cool feature.

3rd gen handles are cast allloy. They could certainly take some direct side-to side stabilization, but the passenger peg mounts are the best option.

Sounds like you'll be just fine. Happy Hauling!

I have an independent auto service place that I let work on a couple of my cars. They are all bike guys too and they know their shit and care. I really prefer to work on bikes and sometimes really don't want to work on a car. I don't even think twice about having them do shit, they are awesome. Also being at a point in life that I don't HAVE to work on a car is pretty nice. My outer shop is big enough to pull a car in and have good access all around if I need to do something out of the weather. But it fucks me for getting bikes thru if it's a bigger car, so I gotta have a good plan and time frame.

That's how I've it done for years too. Transported a LOT of bikes for the shop. Some bikes I double wrapped the strap for more tie down length for other issues and for more cinching area cuz I was extra nervous on some grips (not my bikes). Rear peg mounts with additional soft straps nearly every time. Gives you a little more forward pressure cuz sometimes the fronts are going pretty much down and slightly forward depending on the rig.

I used to work at a Honda Dealer in the 90's and 00's. We had real mechanics and we did real work. You're always gonna disappoint / piss-off somebody at some point, but we cared and delivered. And when we didn't deliver, we tried to make it right. Shit happens sometimes, it could be a tough business. There's got to be some out there still. But your right about most places, they don't have "technicians" any more. Not even close. Nothing pisses me off more than paying lots of money for somebody to damage my shit and then get a shoulder shrug and a "sorry" with the dumbest mother-fucking look on their face. That's when I started doing my own tires too. If I can't service it, I'm not interested in owning it. That list is pretty short.

Yeah maybe. If your soft straps are long enough, you can wrap around once extra and then have both loops for the hook. That way the soft strap cinches. Nice thing about going off the grips is the pull is more down than to the side, so less likely to slip. I've used that method MANY times.

You won't clear the bodywork off of the lower clamp. Go off the grips then but ABSOLUTELY find some additional tie down points like the rear pegs like I did. You can't have straps run across any bodywork and apply pressure, it will destroy the EXTREMELY hard to find bodywork in short order. Pull over and check often.

What-in-the-actual-fuck. It's a goddamn fuel injected Honda. I wouldn't take ANYTHING to that place. That's bullshit. "technicians". Riiiiiigggghhhhht. Fucking lot boys sounds like. There isn't any system on that bike that a "technician" shouldn't be familiar with and able to service. And for that matter, "manager". Another joke. You can learn new things. Get a Service Manual and start small. Or drive farther to a REAL Motorcycle Shop.

You are NOT being overly paranoid. Search "Canyon Dancer" tie down.

Listing is translated and states 41mm RC36 750 VFR 1990 to 1993. I don't recognize it. It's also odd how the top bridge uses a bolt to the reduced diameter (assuming internally threaded) stem. Misidentified? I don't remember coming across any Honda clamp / stem like this. Steering stops are in an odd position too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/203756046297?hash=item2f70ce87d9%3Ag%3A35UAAOSw9hteqhG5&LH_ItemCondition=4

I use the 123bearings website all the time to find certain sizes and dimensions. Then I search the web to purchase that particular (quality) bearing or seal in the states. We used to have true bearings houses in the Seattle area many years ago, but they're gone now.

I'll inform my team I want them disassembled, cleaned and inspected every (race) weekend. Yeah, I've read that before too. Some of the team riders liked ball and some preferred tapered. I'll have to say I prefer the feel of tapered, and the longevity is a bonus