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CoyoteChris

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CoyoteChris last won the day on October 10

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About CoyoteChris

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    Privateer

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  • Location
    Spokane WA
  • In My Garage:
    2015 Honda VFR800

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  1. Just as too tight valve actuators and too loose valve actuators produce different sets of problems, I feel too tight chains and too loose chains produce their own sets of problems. Me? I like to stay a bit looser than the tight limit. This bike has a very smooth drive line that way and if I wear out the chain a bit early, so be it....right now...winter is coming....got in one last ride 390 mile (with the FJR) with snow on the mountains two days ago....last night, it snowed at my house....yuck phooy! 😣
  2. Thats what I did in the 1960s, 70s and 80s. Now, My Suzuki manual says DONT USE KEROSENE TO CLEAN THE CHAIN. I can see where putting kero on a rag wont hurt anything, but some riders claim lots of kero applied with a spray bottle and brush will get the kero past the O rings and disolve out out the inner lubricant. But there are lots of people saying on the web they use kero and spray it on thick and brush the chain to take off all the dirt.... Hence, I see there are chain cleaners on the market like the one I put a pic of. I demand an SAE paper be published on the matter!!!!!🤣
  3. Not worth the money for the cleaner and penetrator?
  4. All right! I will try some. My friend Frosty and I are both pilots and we dont have the sense God gave an eggplant so we measured ours. It turns out to be the low limit when the chain wont touch the upper rubber guard....
  5. Thanks, Grum. Do you press down on the chain, note the ruler marking, and then pull up? Wow, looks like you are getting great sprocket and chain milage......which lube do you prefer and what chain cleaner? You must be doing something right. 👍
  6. Hi CoyoteChris, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  7. I love this bike! Time for the first oil change (piece of cake) and a chain adjust. I got out my breaker bar, torque wrench, rulers, etc and went to work on adjusting the chain. Unencumbered by the thought process, I read the procedure in the owners manual. I then decided to do the business on the center stand instead of the side stand and note the difference. I also checked the slack at four points, just like it was 1964 all over again. It didnt change from side stand to center stand that I could tell. Question. In days of yore, we would put a ruler perpendicular to the chain at midpoint, press the chain down first (about 1/4 inch on this bike) and then press the chain up. I did this on my VFR and set the slack to 1 inch at midpoint. If this what y'all do? Sept is at an end here in the great Pacific NW...still time for a nice warm ride or two....but winter is coming.
  8. After going all they way through this thread, I have to say I have enjoyed it greatly! 400,000 mi bikes and real oil analysis.....and someone who did experience clutch slippage and fixed it by going back. I think I am really going to enjoy this forum....where do I contribute ?
  9. I LOVE oil threads! So much passion.... My Subaru specifies synthetic https://www.idrivesafely.com/defensive-driving/trending/synthetic-oil-vs-conventional-oil My Concours C10 shifted better if I upped the viscosity from 10-40 to 20w-50... My VFR might just be the smoothest shifting bike I have ever owned in 54 years. I am feeding it 10-30 GN4. It seems to like it. The oil heats up to 150 degrees F after five minutes of riding and two minutes of idling to bring the coolant up to 190 degrees. That means that during the terrible Spokane Winter months I can go ride a bit and get the oil temp up easily to purge the water out...a 15 min. ride with a bit of idling should do it.... got no complaints. I have three bikes and this one will get ridden 3K-5K a year, and I will change the oil in the Spring and in the Fall. I am 70. My bike will live longer than I will....you cant ask for more than that......
  10. Many thanks to all and especially Samuelx. Sometimes search functions on forums dont take one to the meat of the problem. The info jives with what the factory told me. I will order these and bleed my system as the fluid got a bit dark while my 2015 was sitting in its crate waiting for me.....I have put these on two bikes (Honda NT700v and FJR) as well as my Connie C10 before them and after bleeding the brakes, you walk away saying," IT JUST CANT BE THIS QUICK AND EASY!!!!!" Nothing wrong with the hose they supply and extra sealant....I like using a weighted glass bottle for the bag.
  11. My new 2015 VFR FD has darkening brake and clutch fluids. I put Speedbleeders http://www.speedbleeder.com/ in all my bikes and love them. I searched the speed bleeder site for 2015 VFRs but they only go up to '09. I emailed them but no joy yet. I called but they havent returned my call yet. Anyone here put speedbleeders on an 8th gen delux and have the numbers they used? (Just got a call from the factory. They say the front is 2 ea. SB 7100S, one for each caliper and the rear is 1 each SB8125L. They think the clutch is a SB 8125L as well) Anyone install these?
  12. Incidently, a big thank you to the Australian Air Racing team for coming to the Reno National Air Races.....
  13. Success! It took two pilots, one mechanical engineer, and aircraft mechanic and a avionics tech, but we did it. Ideally, one would have a 4 in screw to put through the old end weight so one would have room for one person to put in the two screw drivers and depress the tabs while the other pulled. We lightly put some needle nose around the screw alone and tapped the plyers where they met the screw in the direction of removal with a soft hammer to dislodge the tits. Then we put on the old weight and pulled and the inner bar came right out with a grunt. The Kaoko works like a dream. The 29 and 31 demarkation, we feel, just indicates the diameter of the new (and old) end weight. Thanks to all, especially Grum!
  14. You will note their nomenclature is rather interesting....had to read it twice.
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