All Activity

From my post, I was thinking that lawnmowers needs to determine whether it's really clutch plates sticking or the push rod is sticking with a dodgy hydraulic clutch circuit. That will then point to the course of action.

Well thanks to this thread, and Frogger and TT, I absolutely broke the bank last week and ordered a $63 CarPlay unit made in China by Camecho. Just finished the install so haven't ridden it yet but I have to say it all works quite nicely. Here's the (few) Cons, then the Pros, mostly as compared to my new doorstop, the 15 year-old Garmin Zumo: Cons: -The Zumo showed elevation, which was kind nice, but I'm sure I can find an app... -The Zumo was a quick (one second) disconnect. On this unit you have to unscrew the waterproof connection, which is on about a foot of cable attached to the unit. And when you screw it back on the inner piece must be aligned rotationally perfectly, probably not easy in the dark. But then again, it only costs $63, maybe I'll never remove it... Pros: -Well, it's CarPlay. I'm iOS, but even if you're Android you'll know that it does pretty much everything CarPlay does in your car. Pretty sweet. -Screen is excellent, great definition. I'll post more after a ride. -I hooked it up to the GPS power source Ducati provided but hid behind the bodywork, just as I had for the Zumo. I left a 2 amp fuse in the line just in case, probably overkill since it's fused anyway. I spent most of my install time just getting the wiring how I wanted, making sure the wires didn't foul movement at full lock, or get rubbed by any other part. -It paired w my phone in maybe 10 seconds. Paired and works seamlessly. -I'm not really a listen-to-music-while-riding guy, but maybe I'll install the Scala unit from my old Arai. We'll see. Hey, can't beat it for the price, 10% of the cost of my Zumo, not adjusted for inflation.

The only thing that sticks clutch plates together is cold oil and viscosity. My bikes never suffer from that, probably because they never sits still long enough. The clutch has an inner and an outer, where the fibre discs engage with the outer, driven from the crankshaft, and the steel discs engage with the inner and drive the gearbox input. When the engine is in neutral, the clutch spins as one unit, but when you drop into 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled, the inner will quickly stop and the outer carries on spinning, which is why there is often a bit of a clonk. I'd suggest letting the engine get up to a good operating temperature as that will give the clutch a chance to be bathed in nice hot oil. At that point I would shut off the engine and put the bike in gear with the clutch pulled, and then try rocking the bike back and forth to free up the sticky plates. If you need to get to it, clutch disassembly is no big deal but you will need a spare gasket and the patience to scrape off the old one without galling the mating surface. You can do it without dropping the oil, on the sidestand. Just don't drop foreign objects into the open sump...I just swing the case to the side and hang it up so I don't need to do anything with the ignition pulser wires. My 6th gen is below but the 5th is basically identical. Remove the 5 bolts and the clutch can be easily pulled apart, but use a torque wrench and go softly when rebuilding it.

If you only had a little more height... What about going 2x3 high (3x2?) on one side to leave the full wall open on the other side?

+1. I kinda take Keny's posts for granted, but he is always buying, selling, riding, and improving bikes. Fun stuff.

Great advice by the dude, BLS and gaz. Do not just start a bike up in the middle of winter storage, twist the throttle a few times, and turn it off for another month, for the reasons described above. And even if you get that rare winter day and take it out for a quick spin, a five or 10 minute ride will not help, even if the temp gauge settles in to normal operating temperature. As mentioned, you need at least 20-30 minutes until the cases are too hot to touch in order to burn off/evaporate all that bad moisture in the crankcase. Sticking clutch plates are above my pay grade however, plenty of experts here on VFRD to help. Cheers.

Looks good keny!! The bike has come a long way.

Mine's a 99 too, good choice. Concrete floor is bad for tyres, use a few cheapo carpet tiles as a barrier, avoid using a large piece of old carpet, it'll hold a ton of moisture & creates mould, ads to condensation in a garage unless garage is heated. This is why hanging bike gear in a garage is bad Joojoo. Try & bag a decent dehumidifier, they won't work below 10degrees C, but you can keep on top of the worst of the condensation before temp plummets during winter mths. Do u run the motor at all during winter? If so, stop doing it, this'll cause more condensation in an engine than any weather conditions ever will. All motors produce a lot of condensation during the warm up phase, a motor needs to be run up to operating temp & ridden, if you can't actually get the bike out for a proper ride & get it stinkin hot, avoid running the motor, keep a bung or a plastic bag/elastic band over exhaust end to help keep out damp cold air, drop the old oil n filter when you're ready to put it back on the road in spring. Keep fuel tank brimmed with fuel while laid up, less air = less corrosion, wack some kinda stabiliser in fuel, personally I use Dipetane all year round, keeps fuel system in mint condition, dunno if available in the states as it's made in Ireland. Several things can cause sticking clutch plates, worn basket is the main cause, excess drag on plate tangs = sticking plates.

Well it's a great idea, I like it. As far as strength goes for steel shelving just remember how small the centre stands are on your bikes, it can support the full weight of the bike with a rider to boot. So it doesn't take much steel to take the weight. And diagonal braces will redirect the load into the wall affixed verticals, so no need of front support legs. Re the lifter legs, each bike should have one lift position, so you only need leg space equidistant from the balance point of each pallet/sled, so place your tools to suit!

What suburb are you in? I'm not a gynecologist but I'll take a look ;D

Welcome. Sargent seat is the ticket. monitor the forums. How does the tank look inside? Last brake/clutch fluid flush date/miles from now?

Congrats on your 5th gen. and welcome from steamy northern Ohio! 😆 I hope you'll post a couple photos of your VFR here. Seeing pix of these fantastic machines never gets old!

Hey y’all, I recently picked up a 2005 VFR800 with 40k miles. It has some wiring issues and I don’t have the time to sort it out myself. Anyone know of any good techs in Houston we can trust? Quick notes: I just ordered the front wiring harness recall from Honda and they will replace it for free in a few weeks. I’m assuming I’m still going to have issues after that so I’d like to line someone up now, if possible. My dealer already said due to the age all they can do is the recall, nothing else. Previous owner recently installed the VFRness, new R/R and Stator. Thanks in advance!

Welcome from Houston! Post pics or it didn’t happen! Lol

How did that WIX fuel filter hold up?

Welcome dude! Post up some photos !

You were going to make a motorcycle pallet anyway; just make it so that it bridges the beams with some leeway. According to a local supplier, 3.2m span and 140mm deep beams has a load rating of 2746kg. That's plenty. But can you fit two bikes end-to-end in that bay? My gut feel is that you need more like 2m of shelf length. Maybe three x 2m bays would be best.

Lucked into a crazy deal on a one-owner 1998/5th Gen yesterday and want to keep up with tech stuff. The gent (77) bought it new in 99 and has cared for it beyond what most people would, tons of documented preventive maintenance over the years and only 1k miles added to the clock since Covid. New to VFRs but not bikes in general, I've owned many brands since 2006 (drank the HD koolaid up until then). I can already tell that the factory seat and I will not play nicely together, otherwise I'm digging it!

Milky oil is a greater danger to your engine than to your clutch... Milky oil significantly reduces the lubricating properties of the engine oil, leading to increased friction and wear and tear on engine components. This can lead to: Engine overheating: Without proper lubrication and cooling, the engine can overheat. Corrosion: Moisture in the oil can lead to rust and corrosion of engine parts. Clogged passageways: The thickened, contaminated oil can clog lubrication pathways, preventing proper oil circulation. Potential Engine Failure: Ignoring milky oil can result in serious engine damage and even complete engine failure. More likely the cause of Condensation is short trips or riding in cold, when the coolant operates below 180ºF... also humid weather can cause condensation to build up inside the engine, which can then mix with the oil.

View File Gen 8 VFR PC6 Full Lextek 300mm can Gen 8 with 9k miles, fresh oil, fresh stock air filter, new Lextek full system with 300mm silencer. No airbox or other intake mods. Tech nailed the air to fuel ratio. Submitter OklaTwister Submitted 07/06/2025 Category Power Commander Maps  

The SevenFifty exhaust is off as the opened silencers cut off I must say the exhaust is more corroded than you could see as it's mounted, so it needs a bit more care than planned. Next I did smooth the old weld's of headers as oncoming silencers. Next to mount back as wait for my friend to have time and come and weld the healthy silencers on.

If they’re rated for 1000kg as pallet shelves then you need to remove the point loads from the tyres, as the design is for a UDL

No Edmontonians to work on VFRs? Well, I guess you’ll have to rely on the collective knowledge of the forum - lots of hints and tips for working on your bike. I sold mine almost ten years ago but still think of that bike (2005) as one of my faves. Footnote - I didn’t realize this was from 2022. It’s been a while. Did you find a local?