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What do you do when your woman asking if you come along as she goes to hair dresser in the town she used to live. I go along and use the time while she's at hair dresser to go to a big motorcycle spare/part store And in there something to dorl on And yes, pocket became a bit lighter Chain and sprockets as carb rebuild kits as main jets for the Zephyr 550....

The best thing to do is go for a ride, get everything hot. Then go for a ride again, put miles on the bike. Keep doing that. You will see no performance impact from playing around with headers. Spend the money on gas actually using the bike. I bothered with stainless headers when the mild steel headers on an incredibly high mileage VFR failed and rotted through. My 99 at 82K is still on mild steel factory headers. I have a slip on link pipe with muffler, but headers are stock. When the milds rot, I'll change them then. But at 4.5K (wtf...) you should have LONG while before that happens.

A full system won't get rid of condensation. Water vapor is the biggest byproduct of combustion, co2 being the next biggest one and the rest is small amounts. When the exhaust is cold the water vapor condenses into liquid water. The water evaporates when the exhaust reaches operating temperature - which is just a minute or two after cold start. Aftermarket headers have a benefit of being stainless. Black widow and lextek flow similarly to a stock 98-99. A little bit better maybe. Delkevic flows worse I'm sure because of the awful breadbox collector. If your headers aren't rusted out you have very little benefit from installing aftermarket headers.

Is there actually anything wrong with the exhaust? A decent long ride should just dry it out. The silencer should have a small drain hole towards the front underneath that could be blocked. The bike looks extremely clean and unmolested so my guess is water got in from over enthusiastic washing and hose rinsing before sale. Might be worth looking at the oil through the sight glass to check it's not contaminated/emulsified with water if the bike has been standing for a while. But then you have probably changed the oil and filter and the coolant. A little bit of condensation on the glass is okay and should clear with a long ride that gets everything up to temperature.

Found myself fortunate enough to purchase a 1998 with 4.5k miles. Gave me a scare when excess white vapor started blowing from the exhaust, wasn't head gasket, wasn't coolant or oil, turned out to just be water in the exhaust. Little puddle in the header pipes, muffler seems to be soaked. I figure a full system would be the right move. I like the price range of Delkevic and Black Widow, really it's just down to sound (I'd prefer whichever is more subtle), but seeing as the 98 doesn't have a breadbox, is there a possibility of airflow/performance issues with a new full system?

I can't speak to the European models but the '98-'99 California bikes had different camshafts to restrict the motor by 6-7 hp.

Just FYI: '99 USA CA: '99 USA 48 state:

No, I would say that if your friend wants a '98-'99 "full-power" ecu, he needs non-restrictive headers and an ECU ending in 003, or maybe 671 from the USA/Canada. Everything else is either restricted or is for the '00-'01 models and includes HISS (and who knows what else). (Actually, it may not be that the ECU is itself "restricted", and the relative loss of power was entirely due to the restrictive headers on the German and Swiss models, but why take the chance?) Sorry for the confusing presentation of the info. I think I must have started re-living the trauma from the original thread and failed to realise that I had already summarised it in another one! Good luck. Ciao, JZH

Thanks for posting this @8200rpm , and for acknowledging that you do not know the source of the images. For reference, the original diagram that you posted has been modified from my work - one of a sequence of illustrations that I designed to illustrate which master cylinders operate which pistons on the ST1300 - and to give some idea of the flow of fluid when each bleed valve is opened, and to explain the correct bleeding sequence. The only difference between the st1300 and the VFR - as far as I can tell, is that the lines to the rear caliper are interchanged - ie the SMC acts on only the centre piston on the VFR, whereas it operates the two outer pistons on the ST1300. My diagram has been modified by someone to reflect this. The original documents were published as a pdf file with full explanations and behaviours when trying to get rid of air. That document is here and has much relevance for VFR users. https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/st1300-brake-maintenance-getting-all-the-air-out-of-the-brake-system.156754/ The photos of the cutaway SMC showing the oh-so-tiny compensation port / relief port - are also my work. No problem - it all helps to spread a better understanding. Just setting the record straight ! It is a few years down the line now - I created those images and the document 9 years ago (Feb 2017), but if you think that the full document would be useful to VFR owners, I can probably modify it quite easily to be accurate for the VFR rear brake plumbing. Let me know. jfheath

Same as me, much prefer old-style forums. I prefer the organisation of topics and whatnot, things that Facebook doesn't really allow for. Also, it's nice not to be in the clutches of Meta.

lesson learned! Cheers guys.

If I'm understanding this correctly: 38770-MBG-611 (German) ECM with custom (de-restricted) headers will return those 8 HP? I'm even more confused now after reading this, sorry 🤪 I see now what kind a noob am I regarding 5th gen topics

VFRworld is back up.

IIRC every 4-stroke piston I have ever held had a direction mark!

It does, otherwise the gudgeon pin could be offset to the wrong side. Conrods too can have an indicator that shows orientation.

And here https://www.ebay.com/itm/406626584467?_skw=Genuine+Honda+VFR750+RC36+1994+1997+Gen4+Rear+Centre+Fairing+Stop+Light&itmmeta=01KFKQWSM6EZNYXTGQ94GAJBD9&hash=item5eacd54793:g:DZ4AAeSwSIBpchI8&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABIO7PUuNWmJ%2B%2BUShgI9tQz%2FrJ9Y%2Bx%2B6eajbe4XNOGlpRhXGuxmK2sGCbSLaatomtJ9jSRTtUgCGTqSRSfOqbdg2g8T6B5F8KKinloD1yzT8HG%2B0iMnGe1Ys%2BY19Dd9DGGDHhukw%2B06Jtc6fNxJk3PM7AGu4nijgM3g8F1LPMfI7ivwzuoxPDUT42TryuFxMIADLW0cv9JO42e3f1TVE9cPwWcmnzF6meMZ%2BNJ2BrV4sqXlx2J8TTfqGnJZTYs%2BerZ2qmwR9oh1oPXA2eEoKOeLhDIG32NI5HAswRmbQzsgXSTxhDMl9RPXqKq8SIbmM%2BsSzYVbS58qvSH7LrQbN3OnKKqyFTSKH1VRYOBxvPYsGOW%2BPx62aGRIt922%2BcST4ma0g%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5ya8_f8Zg https://www.ebay.com/itm/116896842241?_skw=Genuine+Honda+VFR750+RC36+1994+1997+Gen4+Rear+Centre+Fairing+Stop+Light&itmmeta=01KFKQWSM7ZMA10AAQJ9NS4QGT&hash=item1b37984201:g:fh4AAeSwFyFpJHf8&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABIO7PUuNWmJ%2B%2BUShgI9tQz%2Fofs5Wo%2By2kc5pJ5H3ROqln91g5I4BymqsgIxtDK7VmURAlI4ckZLDAj%2FWCo1R3gIW3XQ5BJdrG5UuMt1E4TDbRq6SvUilHsO9%2Bdu6in5o8p09r4StefRZ8Wt4Bym2yQaYW5IxTi5M%2FRMJMMWnVTH0J7QfKLfvuix5LpssfjqdXplGZa43jFJxxUcfPX00QV%2BNJzCH%2BjskGLsevJjENwzxavnvcZZMvRbuI4n22650ttsFc8uBD0h6CxaTYVK4%2BTjcuodQi85hxv%2FnB4vyypZUNhjmJLyHWAWIqU%2FHHpODMjIpSH5h2ZxZphykI9fNTCsBdcbFA1gwTRMRja2GnWNJXlXJCAfPI%2BRxhnaIdiLegWA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMoJrz9_xm

or the short version

I really enjoy that the VFRD Facebook group is more social and that helps keep the forum more about technical discussion. I don't post on the forum often because I don't own a VFR anymore. I will say that the VFRD users on both platforms are way more respectful than the general internet public.

I have some time and a bike available for tuning if you're considering carb work for your 1990-93 VFR. Joe https://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/calling-all-gen-3-carbs

The message I got at the "other" VFR site is "Server Error". And, oh yeah, Facebook groups are too anarchistic to try and get information from. Mostly just a lot of yelling at each other, and cussing car drivers.

I've looked into this before... There should be some useful PGM-FI information in there. I was valiantly attempting to keep an utterly insane thread factual! Ciao, JZH

Dear all I'm doing a little investigation, in this case to help my friend, but also for general knowledge. Can someone send me their ECM part number from 5th gen pre-facelift (1998.-1999). There are restricted model (power lowered from 106HP+ to 98HP) for certain markets so we would like to skip this 98HP and go for 106+HP model. Based on some source on the Web, I discovered that part 38770-MBG-003 is for derestricted (106+HP) and 38770-MBG-611 is for restricted (98HP). The number may vary based on the market. But I also cannot confirm this information. If you have 1998-1999 model with full 106+ HP, your input would be highly appreciated. 🤗

Small town called Samobor (near capital Zagreb).

Believe me, buy one. Pretty bulletproof mechanics, and even electrics if you install active fan on the rectifier 😉