FJ12Ryder

The last chain I saw that used a clip-type master link, also was a very tight fit. Basically the side link had to be pressed on just like a riveted master link. There was no "slip fit", like the old clip-style master links I've seen, and used in the past.

Well, it really sounds great that chains don't really need any lubricant, but I do wonder how real world that opinion is and how well it has been documented, or whether it is just one guy's opinion. Lots of stories related about chains being shot in fairly short mileage. I don't think I've read of any that say they get 25,000 miles out of their chain and they never lubed it. I've seen quite a few, okay lots, chains that were obviously not lubed because they were rusty/saggy as hell. I suppose it's possible that all the ruined chains I've seen were not X-ring chains and ther

Do a search for MOTEA. Lots of stuff comes up. Appears to be a German company. But doesn't look like anything in the US.

Seems to me the main issue with any bleeder is the problem of getting the bleeders to seal around the threads. Even a power bleeder is going to pull air passed the threads if they don't seal. I gave up on the vacuum bleeder because the air leaking past the threads defeated the whole idea. I did try teflon tape once, and it worked great, but I don't trust that stuff not to shear off and get into the hydraulic system. JMO of course.

I buy all my batteries from Wally World. The VFR battery usually runs about $60. The latest one has lasted about 5 years so spending big bucks for a Yuasa makes no sense to me. For me they last about the same amount of time. I do pull the battery and put it on a Battery Tender over the winter.

I installed a set of Galfer lines on my '99 eight years ago. I took my time, read and reread the bleeding procedure, Like GreginDenver stated, you need to read it multiple times to get a thorough understanding of the process. I tried using a MityVac that I had on hand, but, as always, the air leaks around the threads of the bleed screw and makes it almost worthless, but it works great with Speedbleeders, which I installed before starting to bleed the lines. A very worthwhile investment.. I got the kit from a guy on here who sells all the parts you need, but can't remember who of

Two threads with the same question? What does it show below 4000 rpm?

What exactly do you mean "mine doesn't kick in till 4000rpm"? What is it showing below that rpm?

Before replacing battery, check your charging voltage. If it's fine overnight, you may not be charging well enough while riding.

Just curious why you would make your turn signals even harder to see. Kind of like the guys around here who put smoke/tint on their headlights or tailights.

Your reference to 1/6 turn, 1/9 turn, 1/4 turn is slightly confusing since a 1/9 turn is 40°, 1/6 turn is 60", and 1/4 turn is 90°. So figuring that, the 1/9 turn would be the quickest, with 1/4 turn the slowest. I think your numbers are not quite correct. A quarter-turn throttle, should be much shorter twist than a stock VFR twist. And I was wondering how the trimmed throttle tube still fit in the housing since it is still much larger in diameter at the high point.

It's not uncommon on many bikes for shifts from 1st to 2nd to not be as smooth as any other gear shifts.

With that many years, and that few of miles, it's possible the clutch plates are gunked up and sticking together at initial startup. If you start it in gear with the clutch pulled in first time of the day, does the bike try to lurch forward?

I bought a Micron shortly after I bought my '99 in 2000 and sold it immediately because it was too loud. Nice throaty sound, but obnoxiously loud.

Hmm, that color doesn't match the description: "5th gen in the best color ". 😀 Don't forget red is the fastest too.