FJ12Ryder

I replaced my countershaft sprocket with a non-rubberized version, and never noticed any difference. Either in the noise or vibration.

Don't know if they're still made, but the Morgan CarbTune is a great piece of kit.

Many years ago someone was selling a disc that went in the rear wheel that plugged the center hole. It was simply a VFR emblem and letters. No one knows it's there, but me, but it makes me smile to see it. To me neon/led lights are a shout of "LOOK AT ME, AREN'T I COOL?" I'm a pretty firm believer in subtlety. A whisper rather than a shout.

I think I've seen lights like that on "Pimp My Ride". 🙂 I figure if you post shots of your bike, then you put up with people who won't like what you've done. And you don't whine about it. Yeah, I don't like neon/LED lights on bikes either.

"Just Say "NO"!!

I was thinking the last time I had my countershaft sprocket off, there was a certain amount of lateral play. No rotary movement on the shaft, but the sprocket was free to move a tad on the shaft sideways. We're talking basically just enough movement to feel, and the nut/washer tightened to the shaft, not the sprocket.

I don't care for the look, but powdercoat, provided it's properly applied and cured, is definitely tougher and more durable than plain paint. It can be chipped or damaged but you have to work at it.

No offense, but while it may be one of the lower priced ones, that does not make it sensible. 🙂

$6500!! For a 22 year old bike? I love my '99, but not a chance.

I just ordered the set from Webike, so we'll see how it goes. Keep your fingers crossed.

Considering the fundamental difference between the OEM ball bearings, and the Timken-style roller bearings, there is no way the same torque setting will work for both. What did they say to use for torque settings? Just curious.

The tapered bearings will take less preload than the OEM ball bearings. I set mine so they moved freely, but had no excess play. And rechecked after some riding was done. Too loose and you get "CLUNK" and damage in short order, too tight and the bike will wander.

A lot can depend on ambient temperatures too. Especially when sitting at a stoplight. When it's around 90°, my '99 shows around 180° at highway speeds, when the temperature is down around 80°, running speed temperature drops to around 175°. Stop and go raises the temperature pretty quickly, and then tops out around 212°, but will go higher if moving slowly due to the orientation of the radiator fan/s. Stopped at a light, the temperature will drop when the fan kicks on at 212°.

I'll absolutely agree with what's been said: your issue is right in the title: LIFTING TO CENTERSTAND. You don't lift, that's an easy way to a bad back or hernia. 🙂 When you get the centerstand legs on the ground, both of them, concentrate on pushing the centerstand into the ground, use the bike for leverage to help in pushing down. Don't consciously lift up, just press down, done right, the bike will all but leap onto the centerstand. Of course this is all a lot tougher if the bike has been lowered.

What a doofus, and a not very good rider either.