Jump to content

FJ12Ryder

Member Contributer
  • Posts

    1,328
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    15

FJ12Ryder last won the day on December 27 2021

FJ12Ryder had the most liked content!

About FJ12Ryder

  • Birthday 07/11/1949

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Platte City, MO
  • In My Garage:

    '99 VFR

    Peggy's 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

FJ12Ryder's Achievements

Collaborator

Collaborator (7/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • First Post
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter

Recent Badges

366

Reputation

  1. I just ordered the set from Webike, so we'll see how it goes. Keep your fingers crossed.
  2. Considering the fundamental difference between the OEM ball bearings, and the Timken-style roller bearings, there is no way the same torque setting will work for both. What did they say to use for torque settings? Just curious.
  3. The tapered bearings will take less preload than the OEM ball bearings. I set mine so they moved freely, but had no excess play. And rechecked after some riding was done. Too loose and you get "CLUNK" and damage in short order, too tight and the bike will wander.
  4. A lot can depend on ambient temperatures too. Especially when sitting at a stoplight. When it's around 90°, my '99 shows around 180° at highway speeds, when the temperature is down around 80°, running speed temperature drops to around 175°. Stop and go raises the temperature pretty quickly, and then tops out around 212°, but will go higher if moving slowly due to the orientation of the radiator fan/s. Stopped at a light, the temperature will drop when the fan kicks on at 212°.
  5. Without pulling an engine, or doing an in-depth leakdown test, there's no way to know if a valve is burnt. A burnt valve will still work, just horsepower will be down a bit due to compression being lower. It's not going to self-destruct, so no telling how many high mileage engines have burned valves. The loss of power would be so gradual as to be virtually unnoticeable.
  6. Hi FJ12Ryder, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  7. Very nicely done. It really grabs the eye.
  8. Bought a new battery. When I checked the old one which had been on a Battery Tender, it showed 12.4 V. Put it in, turned the key and nothing. Checked the battery, 12.4 V. Hmmm, checked the battery when I turned the key 0 V. Apparently a bad cell. It woudn't even light a tail light bulb on the bench. So off to Wally World for a new battery. $65 later and I'm back in business. Not sure exactly how old the battery is but got to be 5+ years old. It goes on the Battery Tender in the winter so that probably helps. New front tire is next on the list. Already have it, just need to get it mounted and balanced.
  9. A VFR using oil is a pretty rare breed. Have you had it since new? Did it just start using a little oil? How many miles? What viscosity oil? When was the last oil change? Maybe a slight leak from a not tight enough oil filter?
  10. Check the bearings for smooth operation while the wheel is off. Clean the axle, and I use a little anti-seize on mine before sliding it back in place. I don't use locktite. And it's a good idea while the calipers are off, to check/lube the caliper slider pins. The lube can get pretty solid over time, and not work like it should.
  11. A washer helper is always a great thing. Do you use pipe tape, or pipe dope to keep the air from leaking around the threads? I tried using my MityVac a few times but couldn't stop the air leaking around the threads, and taping all the fittings was just too much of a PIA. But when it works, it is a great tool.
  12. But just imagine how fast he would have been if he'd been all in red. Scary to even think about. 🙂
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.