FJ12Ryder

This all makes me wonder why we don't see all these exploded motorcycle engines along side the road from using non-motorcycle specific oil. LOL Nope, mostly hooey, and a reason to try to sell overly expensive oil to gullible folk. Bike engines now are not much different from bike engines from 20 or 30 years ago. Metallurgy is better and parts, generally, are better machined, but DOHC engines, wet clutches, and motor oil lubed gearboxes are still with us. If anything the engines are easier on their oil since the engine temps are more evenly controlled, as opposed to so many air cooled engines from the 80's. Nope, just refuse to buy into it...literally. 🙂

Nah, she didn't move it an inch. Her helmet strap is latched, but loose as a goose. No body rides with a helmet strap that loose. And you notice none of those shots from the front were high enough to actually see the rider? Juuuuust a little too low to see a face. Nice bike though.

I guess I'm on the fence with all this electronic control stuff. I know it could keep some accidents from happening, but at the same time I feel that skill should enter into the equation somewhere. I'll have to admit that I'm really ambivalent about it. Peggy's Spyder has a lot of electronic controls and they can be a pain sometimes. You end up riding a certain way to keep from activating the "Nanny" as it's called.

"I would be interested in learning algorithm that arrives at that 60% figure." Yeah, me too. Wonder if it comes from that area near their back pocket? 🙂

The oil drains out of the sump, this has nothing to do with the crank since the crank isn't submerged in oil. So draining the oil will have no effect on "heat soak". The oil pump is going to be empty, whether drained hot or cold. No difference.

Well, consider the fact that there is a fair amount of oil sitting up around the valves and such. Draining cold means that all the contaminants have settled out of the oil up there and will wait for the new fresh oil so they can continue to circulate. And possibly the oil in the pan has had a chance for some of the gunk to settle to the floor of the oil pan and will sit there and not be flushed out. Nope, I'll stick to warm oil changes.

Changing oil hot means that nothing has had the time to drop out of suspension, the water is not condensed onto various metal parts, and it flows easier as a bonus.

Interesting, but I'll still stick to hot oil changes. I don't put the plug back in as soon as the oil stops coming out in a steady stream, which is basically what they did. Mine usually sits for an hour or so to drain as much as possible. I mean it makes sense that you'll get less oil out if you don't give the oil time to drain down from the upper end. There's a reason they tell you not to check the oil immediately after shutting off the engine. I use a Fumoto drain plugs on my 4 wheel vehicles and they usually sit at least a half hour before I shut off the drain, just to let as much oil as possible drain down. I wonder what the results would be if they had given each an hour, or even a half hour to drain. Thanks for posting that article up.

100% no complaints. Everything you do is greatly appreciated by me.

Bad clunking sound in your rear end? Could be lack of fiber in your diet. Sorry, couldn't help myself. 🙂

Sprocket Center has them: SprocketCenter Whoops, looks like the rear is Out of Stock. Sorry.

A 10 mm bolt is about the same diameter as a 3/8 bolt, and the 3/8 bolt recommended torque setting is right around 23 lb.ft. So 23 lb.ft. for a 10 mm bolt would be about right. But a grade 8 3/8 bolt is about 44 lb.ft.

Especially cheap 12 point sockets. 🙂

Actually a straight extension doesn't affect torque settings. A universal extension is a different story if not used correctly. The main issue with extensions is that it's easy to not support the head of the torque wrench properly, thus applying a certain amount of sideways force. Properly supported, an extension will work just fine.