FJ12Ryder

Those are some pretty sharp looking seats.

What you're saying is true, but if only one piston is free to move, the other one is blocked, and the brake pedal gets pushed full down a couple times, I'm not so sure the piston won't come most of the way out. Just an opinion of course. But if these guys screwed up and won't admit it, it makes a person wonder how badly they screwed up.

Well, since I think the issue is with the slave cylinder, I think it's possible any damage would be visible if you remove the piston, especially since it has happened again. And you can take the slave cylinder apart without any damage to have a good look see. And to make sure no foreign material has been introduced. I hadn't considered the possibility that they introduced some junk into the system when they did the job, but it could have happened. I think a thorough look-see and flush is in order.

I noticed the same thing when I first got my VFR. I've never had to replace rear pads before the fronts because I use the fronts much more often, and harder, than I've ever used the rears. However, don't forget the linked brakes on the VFR: when you apply the fronts, even if you don't actually use the rear brake pedal you're still applying the rear brakes. So every time you stop you are applying the rear brake. And if you brake hard with the front, the rear brake will also be applied harder due to the secondary master cylinder action.

My initial reaction would be to think that they messed up when they replaced the pads. They could have pulled the pads, hit the lever, and pushed the piston/s out, then screwed up a seal when they replaced them. But not screwed up the seal enough to completely fail but enough to cause issues. Not necessarily a cut but perhaps a fold or crease, but whatever it is the seal isn't working as it should. My other thought is they pulled the slave cylinder, and pushed the slave cylinder out. Why they would do this I have no idea. This led to the need to bleed the brake, and then a poor bleeding job resulting in mushy brakes. Also they may have folded/creased the seal and cause it to fail partially, but reset itself, but is prone to do the same thing all over again. Any way you look at it they screwed the pooch and are not admitting it. If you're not a mechanic, then you need to have someone look at it that knows how things are supposed to work. Something is not right, and it's downright dangerous to keep riding it as is.

It certainly could be spark plugs, but considering the RPM range where it becomes noticeable, I'd be looking hard at the V-tec actuation. Maybe you have a valve or two that isn't actuating like the others when the V-tec kicks in.

The 8th gen wheels won't fit the 5th gen without some modifications: they are 5 hole and the 5th gen are 4 hole. Or do you have a plan in place to get them to fit?

OEM is black, I wanted something more than OEM. Black just doesn't grab the eye IMO. So I went with red. Never too much of a good thing.

Yeah, motorcycle tires are a lot less forgiving about rim width and tire size. Trying to put a larger aspect ratio tire on the same size rim can cause the tread to "tuck in" and you could actually end up with a smaller footprint than you had with the narrower tire. And possibly have contact between tire and chain or swingarm. Sometimes you just have to be happy with function over "form". Some people do it, but they are usually the ones more interested in how a bike looks rather than how it functions. Harley riders and cruiser riders in general fall into this category. It's generally referred to as the "Ooh, ooh, don't I look cool even though I can't lean to go around a corner" category.

What's wrong with the stock size? If you try to fit too wide of a tire on too narrow of a rim, you cause the tire to be slightly deformed. They recommend the tires sizes for a reason.

Black?

Don't forget that boat anchors have their place. On a bike as porky as the VFR, a few pounds of centerstand, especially as low as they are, don't make that much difference. Going racing? Don't mess with the centerstand. Going riding? They can come in very handy. Just like SlickWeevil posted.

The mount that mounts using the front gas tank bolts is the best IMO.

Does it still do it with the PC removed? That's the first thing I'd check.

To be honest, it's impossible to say. Lubing up the cylinder walls before running and turning it over a bit will certainly help. I wouldn't be surprised to see compression readings come up to close to normal. But, and a big but it is, it's all about what it's like inside. Endoscopes are pretty cheap now, so you could pull the plugs, and use the endoscope to check the condition of the cylinder walls. I can't see getting reliable compression readings without the engine running in the first place. Things are just going to be stuck, and not sealing. Did he do a leak-down test? Or how did he do a compression test without the engine running?