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FJ12Ryder

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Everything posted by FJ12Ryder

  1. Nah, she didn't move it an inch. Her helmet strap is latched, but loose as a goose. No body rides with a helmet strap that loose. And you notice none of those shots from the front were high enough to actually see the rider? Juuuuust a little too low to see a face. Nice bike though.
  2. I guess I'm on the fence with all this electronic control stuff. I know it could keep some accidents from happening, but at the same time I feel that skill should enter into the equation somewhere. I'll have to admit that I'm really ambivalent about it. Peggy's Spyder has a lot of electronic controls and they can be a pain sometimes. You end up riding a certain way to keep from activating the "Nanny" as it's called.
  3. "I would be interested in learning algorithm that arrives at that 60% figure." Yeah, me too. Wonder if it comes from that area near their back pocket? 🙂
  4. The oil drains out of the sump, this has nothing to do with the crank since the crank isn't submerged in oil. So draining the oil will have no effect on "heat soak". The oil pump is going to be empty, whether drained hot or cold. No difference.
  5. Well, consider the fact that there is a fair amount of oil sitting up around the valves and such. Draining cold means that all the contaminants have settled out of the oil up there and will wait for the new fresh oil so they can continue to circulate. And possibly the oil in the pan has had a chance for some of the gunk to settle to the floor of the oil pan and will sit there and not be flushed out. Nope, I'll stick to warm oil changes.
  6. Changing oil hot means that nothing has had the time to drop out of suspension, the water is not condensed onto various metal parts, and it flows easier as a bonus.
  7. Interesting, but I'll still stick to hot oil changes. I don't put the plug back in as soon as the oil stops coming out in a steady stream, which is basically what they did. Mine usually sits for an hour or so to drain as much as possible. I mean it makes sense that you'll get less oil out if you don't give the oil time to drain down from the upper end. There's a reason they tell you not to check the oil immediately after shutting off the engine. I use a Fumoto drain plugs on my 4 wheel vehicles and they usually sit at least a half hour before I shut off the drain, just to let as much oil as possible drain down. I wonder what the results would be if they had given each an hour, or even a half hour to drain. Thanks for posting that article up.
  8. 100% no complaints. Everything you do is greatly appreciated by me.
  9. Bad clunking sound in your rear end? Could be lack of fiber in your diet. Sorry, couldn't help myself. 🙂
  10. Sprocket Center has them: SprocketCenter Whoops, looks like the rear is Out of Stock. Sorry.
  11. A 10 mm bolt is about the same diameter as a 3/8 bolt, and the 3/8 bolt recommended torque setting is right around 23 lb.ft. So 23 lb.ft. for a 10 mm bolt would be about right. But a grade 8 3/8 bolt is about 44 lb.ft.
  12. Very nicely done. It really grabs the eye.
  13. Especially cheap 12 point sockets. 🙂
  14. Actually a straight extension doesn't affect torque settings. A universal extension is a different story if not used correctly. The main issue with extensions is that it's easy to not support the head of the torque wrench properly, thus applying a certain amount of sideways force. Properly supported, an extension will work just fine.
  15. Using liquid threadlocker like LocTite, definitely reduces the amount of torque necessary to reach proper tightness. So if you put LocTite on the bolts, and tighten them to the stated torque settings you are over tightening them. Anything like antiseize will do the same thing. The liquid acts like a lubricant and requires refiguring the torque setting. I believe the setting is 23 lb.ft, and should be reduced probably by about 20%. if using a liquid locktite. Maybe 16-18 lb.ft. This is from Loctite: "The Loctite people recommend reducing applied torque by 20 percent from dry values when using their liquid thread-locking compounds on threaded fasteners And don't forget torque settings should be reached while the torque wrench is turning. If you stop, then start turning the bolt/nut, and the torque wrench clicks, that is not the correct torque setting. The click should occur as the wrench is turning.
  16. Okay, I kind of see what you're referring to, and I won't deny that hitting a bridge at 50 mph is potentially more lethal than at 20 mph. I guess I just bristle when they make the statement that slower is "safer" than faster, and they use that as an excuse to ticket you for being "unsafe", or as a reason to lower speed limits to unrealistic speeds.
  17. You don't have to wait, think OnStar and LoJack. Heck people pay for the privilege of being tracked.
  18. I've always felt more comfortable moving a bit faster than traffic, and getting stuck in clots of cars makes me very uncomfortable. I feel that moving a bit faster, maybe only a couple mph sometimes, allows me to act to avoid problems rather than re-act to an occurring problem.
  19. "There is no getting around the fact that lower speeds are statistically safer" Surely you don't believe that! I want to see the study and parameters of that study. That ranks right up there with "Speed Kills" and "Just Say No". 🙂
  20. Totally off topic, but many, many years ago you could buy 45 rpm records, remember those, of various motorcycles running the track. I had one of the six cylinder Honda 250 going by at full chat. Wowser, what a scream.
  21. Always good to hear of a positive outcome to a problem. Thanks for getting back to everyone.
  22. Just a couple of rebuttals: A regular air powered die grinder isn't much different in size from a Dremel. I have both. I'm not referring to a angle grinder. Basically all Dremel attachment will work with a die grinder since they generally use the same size collet. In fact the die grinder I have has interchangeable 1/8" and 1/4" collets. A decent die grinder is variable speed by nature. I do agree that the main drawback is the need for an air compressor. I maintain the air pressure in my air compressor so it's not a big deal for me. And if you don't have a fair sized air compressor it will draw down the pressure very quickly. The die grinder itself is no louder than a Dremel, but the compressor running kind of spoils the quiet. 🙂 Here's one very similar to what I have: Air Powered Die Grinder The main problem is the portability. You can use a Dremel anywhere there's electricity, the air powered, not so much.
  23. A consideration is to use an air powered die grinder. You really need an air compressor anyway, and a good die grinder isn't very expensive and very little to go wrong with them. Hit them with some oil before using every time, and away you go. I have a $30 die grinder that's over 30 years old and still works excellently.
  24. Just to be fair, it isn't an issue with just VFR owners. Every forum I belong to has the same issue: people post about a problem, ask for help, and then disappear. You never know if your advice helped or whether they solved their problem another way. Gets kind of frustrating after it happens a dozen times. Heck most of the time you don't know if they ever even read any of the responses.
  25. I love 'em, my wife hates 'em. But I got used to them when I was stationed in Europe, so that may help explain the difference. I wonder if they're even mentioned in the drivers' license exam. In Missouri, they put a Yield sign for entering traffic, but just like everything else, it doesn't always work. But they beat the hell out of 4-way stops.
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