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FJ12Ryder

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Everything posted by FJ12Ryder

  1. A lot can depend on ambient temperatures too. Especially when sitting at a stoplight. When it's around 90°, my '99 shows around 180° at highway speeds, when the temperature is down around 80°, running speed temperature drops to around 175°. Stop and go raises the temperature pretty quickly, and then tops out around 212°, but will go higher if moving slowly due to the orientation of the radiator fan/s. Stopped at a light, the temperature will drop when the fan kicks on at 212°.
  2. I'll absolutely agree with what's been said: your issue is right in the title: LIFTING TO CENTERSTAND. You don't lift, that's an easy way to a bad back or hernia. 🙂 When you get the centerstand legs on the ground, both of them, concentrate on pushing the centerstand into the ground, use the bike for leverage to help in pushing down. Don't consciously lift up, just press down, done right, the bike will all but leap onto the centerstand. Of course this is all a lot tougher if the bike has been lowered.
  3. Everyone seems to be obsessing over the "not enough grease" thing. Radial bearings like these require very little grease, not like a Timken-style bearing that need to be repacked every so often. Radial bearings like these have a "point contact" and this is one of those places where "More is Better" doesn't apply. Kind of like it doesn't apply to motor oil either. 🙂
  4. Yeah, I agree that Speedbleeders don't work that great, or actually not at all, on an empty system. I have a Mity-Vac, and I've actually had a couple bleeders not leak air past the threads over the years, and that thing worked slick. But 99.9% of the time air leaks past the threads, and just make a PIA job, a major PIA job. 🙂
  5. Don't forget the spring loaded ball inside that hollow threaded bolt. 🙂 To me it's easy to use the Speedbleeders, not much of a "Herculean effort", 🙂 Normal bleeding, you loosen the bleeder screw squeeze the lever tighten the bleed screw, now repeat until done. Speedbleeder bleeding, loosen the Speedbleeder screw and pump the lever. No need to retighten like a normal bleeder screw between pumps of the lever. Easy peasy.
  6. I've used the Speedbleeders and like them a lot. Can't comment on the sealant coming off. You might want to rethink the SS bolts in critical parts like brake calipers, as, generally speaking, they aren't as strong as a good Grade 5 bolt. And they are more likely to seize up in some applications. JMO anyway.
  7. 72 here also. Been riding since I was 14, with a 2 1/2 year break with a stint in the Army. Have never been without a bike since that break, usually have at least 2, but down to just the Interceptor now...and the wife's Spyder. I bought the Interceptor when it was less than a year old in 2000, and have had it every since. That gear drive song is just to intoxicating to ever let go. I sold my '86 FJ1200 about 4 years ago after owning it from new. I worked in the Yamaha shop at the time, and put the thing together and took it for a test ride. Bought it on the spot. One of the best bikes ever, and rode it coast to coast, and north to south.
  8. I wouldn't go larger on the front. I think yours has a 16 tooth front, and that works pretty well. I went to 45 tooth from 43, and couldn't be happier. I tried going one larger on the front many years ago, but it made the bike way too sluggish, and over geared. The 45 rear and 17 tooth countershaft sprocket works well for me. FWIW, I've used DID for years, tried RK once, and it didn't last as long as the DID. But that's just my experience. I went to DID 520 chain and sprockets this time around just for grins and giggles. Seems to work just fine, but time will tell. I got about 27,000 miles out of the last DID.
  9. Without pulling an engine, or doing an in-depth leakdown test, there's no way to know if a valve is burnt. A burnt valve will still work, just horsepower will be down a bit due to compression being lower. It's not going to self-destruct, so no telling how many high mileage engines have burned valves. The loss of power would be so gradual as to be virtually unnoticeable.
  10. Cool beans. I've lived here since 2001, and lived up in St. Joe before that. On a different subject, we've been thinking of heading south next winter for a little snowbirding. Any decent RV parks near? And more importantly, good motorcyling roads? We stayed near Angelfire some years back and liked the area, but thinking a warmer area for the winter.
  11. Hi FJ12Ryder, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  12. Sounds like you had better luck with the MityVac than I have ever had. I gave up on using it, as I could never get stop air getting pas the threads on the bleed screws with using some kind of sealant. And I didn't like the idea of some contaminant getting into the system. In truth, it wasn't that bad of a deal to bleed them, but full disclosure, I didn't do the PCV valve. And I did it when I replaced all the rubber lines with stainless.
  13. IMO the main issue is when the carb float bowls dry up, then you get varnish and gunk which cause problems. But honestly I don't think three months is going to be a serious problem. But if you can run the carbs dry, that would be best.
  14. I dunno, looks like a good attractant for sand and dirt to collect on, and work their abrasive magic. 🙂
  15. Believe it or not, but I had a 1971 Triumph Bonneville, and the crankcase breather tube terminated just above the rear sprocket. Did a right nice job of lubing the chain. You're in good company. 🙂
  16. Hawke Oiler and 140/70 gear lube. Changed the last chain with 25,000 miles on it. It probably had another few thousand miles left in it, but I wanted to try the 520 conversion. Running the DID 520 chain, 17 tooth countershaft, and 45 rear sprocket. Actually feels pretty good. Tried chain wax years ago on one bike or another, and had lousy results, but that was a long time ago. The formula has prolly been changed for the better.
  17. Very nicely done. It really grabs the eye.
  18. Bought a new battery. When I checked the old one which had been on a Battery Tender, it showed 12.4 V. Put it in, turned the key and nothing. Checked the battery, 12.4 V. Hmmm, checked the battery when I turned the key 0 V. Apparently a bad cell. It woudn't even light a tail light bulb on the bench. So off to Wally World for a new battery. $65 later and I'm back in business. Not sure exactly how old the battery is but got to be 5+ years old. It goes on the Battery Tender in the winter so that probably helps. New front tire is next on the list. Already have it, just need to get it mounted and balanced.
  19. A VFR using oil is a pretty rare breed. Have you had it since new? Did it just start using a little oil? How many miles? What viscosity oil? When was the last oil change? Maybe a slight leak from a not tight enough oil filter?
  20. Check the bearings for smooth operation while the wheel is off. Clean the axle, and I use a little anti-seize on mine before sliding it back in place. I don't use locktite. And it's a good idea while the calipers are off, to check/lube the caliper slider pins. The lube can get pretty solid over time, and not work like it should.
  21. A washer helper is always a great thing. Do you use pipe tape, or pipe dope to keep the air from leaking around the threads? I tried using my MityVac a few times but couldn't stop the air leaking around the threads, and taping all the fittings was just too much of a PIA. But when it works, it is a great tool.
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