FJ12Ryder

I replaced my countershaft sprocket with a non-rubberized version, and never noticed any difference. Either in the noise or vibration.

Don't know if they're still made, but the Morgan CarbTune is a great piece of kit.

Many years ago someone was selling a disc that went in the rear wheel that plugged the center hole. It was simply a VFR emblem and letters. No one knows it's there, but me, but it makes me smile to see it. To me neon/led lights are a shout of "LOOK AT ME, AREN'T I COOL?" I'm a pretty firm believer in subtlety. A whisper rather than a shout.

I think I've seen lights like that on "Pimp My Ride". 🙂 I figure if you post shots of your bike, then you put up with people who won't like what you've done. And you don't whine about it. Yeah, I don't like neon/LED lights on bikes either.

"Just Say "NO"!!

I was thinking the last time I had my countershaft sprocket off, there was a certain amount of lateral play. No rotary movement on the shaft, but the sprocket was free to move a tad on the shaft sideways. We're talking basically just enough movement to feel, and the nut/washer tightened to the shaft, not the sprocket.

I don't care for the look, but powdercoat, provided it's properly applied and cured, is definitely tougher and more durable than plain paint. It can be chipped or damaged but you have to work at it.

No offense, but while it may be one of the lower priced ones, that does not make it sensible. 🙂

$6500!! For a 22 year old bike? I love my '99, but not a chance.

I just ordered the set from Webike, so we'll see how it goes. Keep your fingers crossed.

Considering the fundamental difference between the OEM ball bearings, and the Timken-style roller bearings, there is no way the same torque setting will work for both. What did they say to use for torque settings? Just curious.

The tapered bearings will take less preload than the OEM ball bearings. I set mine so they moved freely, but had no excess play. And rechecked after some riding was done. Too loose and you get "CLUNK" and damage in short order, too tight and the bike will wander.

A lot can depend on ambient temperatures too. Especially when sitting at a stoplight. When it's around 90°, my '99 shows around 180° at highway speeds, when the temperature is down around 80°, running speed temperature drops to around 175°. Stop and go raises the temperature pretty quickly, and then tops out around 212°, but will go higher if moving slowly due to the orientation of the radiator fan/s. Stopped at a light, the temperature will drop when the fan kicks on at 212°.

I'll absolutely agree with what's been said: your issue is right in the title: LIFTING TO CENTERSTAND. You don't lift, that's an easy way to a bad back or hernia. 🙂 When you get the centerstand legs on the ground, both of them, concentrate on pushing the centerstand into the ground, use the bike for leverage to help in pushing down. Don't consciously lift up, just press down, done right, the bike will all but leap onto the centerstand. Of course this is all a lot tougher if the bike has been lowered.

What a doofus, and a not very good rider either.

Everyone seems to be obsessing over the "not enough grease" thing. Radial bearings like these require very little grease, not like a Timken-style bearing that need to be repacked every so often. Radial bearings like these have a "point contact" and this is one of those places where "More is Better" doesn't apply. Kind of like it doesn't apply to motor oil either. 🙂

^^^^^^Spam.

Yeah, I agree that Speedbleeders don't work that great, or actually not at all, on an empty system. I have a Mity-Vac, and I've actually had a couple bleeders not leak air past the threads over the years, and that thing worked slick. But 99.9% of the time air leaks past the threads, and just make a PIA job, a major PIA job. 🙂

Don't forget the spring loaded ball inside that hollow threaded bolt. 🙂 To me it's easy to use the Speedbleeders, not much of a "Herculean effort", 🙂 Normal bleeding, you loosen the bleeder screw squeeze the lever tighten the bleed screw, now repeat until done. Speedbleeder bleeding, loosen the Speedbleeder screw and pump the lever. No need to retighten like a normal bleeder screw between pumps of the lever. Easy peasy.

I've used the Speedbleeders and like them a lot. Can't comment on the sealant coming off. You might want to rethink the SS bolts in critical parts like brake calipers, as, generally speaking, they aren't as strong as a good Grade 5 bolt. And they are more likely to seize up in some applications. JMO anyway.

72 here also. Been riding since I was 14, with a 2 1/2 year break with a stint in the Army. Have never been without a bike since that break, usually have at least 2, but down to just the Interceptor now...and the wife's Spyder. I bought the Interceptor when it was less than a year old in 2000, and have had it every since. That gear drive song is just to intoxicating to ever let go. I sold my '86 FJ1200 about 4 years ago after owning it from new. I worked in the Yamaha shop at the time, and put the thing together and took it for a test ride. Bought it on the spot. One of the best bikes ever, and rode it coast to coast, and north to south.

I wouldn't go larger on the front. I think yours has a 16 tooth front, and that works pretty well. I went to 45 tooth from 43, and couldn't be happier. I tried going one larger on the front many years ago, but it made the bike way too sluggish, and over geared. The 45 rear and 17 tooth countershaft sprocket works well for me. FWIW, I've used DID for years, tried RK once, and it didn't last as long as the DID. But that's just my experience. I went to DID 520 chain and sprockets this time around just for grins and giggles. Seems to work just fine, but time will tell. I got about 27,000 miles out of the last DID.

Without pulling an engine, or doing an in-depth leakdown test, there's no way to know if a valve is burnt. A burnt valve will still work, just horsepower will be down a bit due to compression being lower. It's not going to self-destruct, so no telling how many high mileage engines have burned valves. The loss of power would be so gradual as to be virtually unnoticeable.

Cool beans. I've lived here since 2001, and lived up in St. Joe before that. On a different subject, we've been thinking of heading south next winter for a little snowbirding. Any decent RV parks near? And more importantly, good motorcyling roads? We stayed near Angelfire some years back and liked the area, but thinking a warmer area for the winter.

Man, you have to be old to remember Sonny Hill. LOL