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8200rpm

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8200rpm last won the day on December 30 2019

8200rpm had the most liked content!

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About 8200rpm

  • Rank
    Club Racer

Profile Information

  • Location
    Costa Mesa, CA
  • In My Garage:
    VFR800Fi 1998

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  1. Speed bleeders available: SB8125 SB8125L (longer nipple) SB8125LL (longer threads, longer nipple) OE seems to be all the same except the PCV and the clutch slave cylinder Front Left Upper Front Left Middle Front Right Upper Front Right Middle PCV (OE on this one might be M10) Rear Front Rear Middle Clutch slave cylinder (M10) What SB size should be used for the 8 sites on the 5th Gen VFR? Any difference between speedbleeder.com, Goodridge, and Russell?
  2. My first bike, too. Paid $150 for her back in 1993. Electrical tape seat, EX500 muffler, and I mostly kick started her because it seemed like a cool thing to do.
  3. They are not angled but square. Doesn’t matter which way they go in. The square also functions to retract the pistons once pressure is relieved by the master cylinder retracting.
  4. Had the same bike. Different paint scheme but white wheels, too. Impossible to clean all the grime inside the U of the spokes. I wouldn’t want white wheels unless they were solid with no nooks and crannies.
  5. I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and slave a couple weeks ago as a warm up exercise for the brakes. It was actually in worse condition than the brakes. Clutch MC was leaking fluid at the lever. The slave piston required a lot of elbow grease and 2000-grit wet sand to polish out the scaled up brake fluid.
  6. Thanks. It made re-assembly a lot more efficient. Took the assembly line route and did one task to all calipers at once rather than building one caliper at a time.
  7. Well, the good news is that the brakes work. Took her to an open parking lot and did a bunch of emergency stops from 25mph. Both lever and pedal are initially “gentle” and progressively “firm”. Rear brake is good enough to lock up the rear. Didn’t try to lock up the front, ☠️ Both brakes are good enough to smash my tender bits into the tank. Once I was comfortable in the parking lot, took her around town to get reacquainted with the brakes. Once I was comfortable with the brakes, took her to a low speed, tight turn canyon and did a couple runs. I had my fingers crossed for dramatic difference based on the neglect, but honestly the brakes don’t feel much different than before the rebuild. I do have peace of mind knowing that the pistons are not corroded and stuck, and the fluid and pads are fresh. Probably will install speed bleeders and flush the system in 12 months just for good measure.
  8. Thanks for the “Drill”. I’ll bust out the multimeter next time I’m free to tinker. Spent a couple hours too many in the garage the past couple days doing my brakes.
  9. I cheaped out on the speedbleeders. In retrospect, speed bleeders would have been money better spent than the generic vacuum bleeder from Amazon. What a clumsy mess that was.
  10. The engineer at Honda who green lighted the combined braking system must have been a masochist, didn’t do his own maintenance or sold his personal motorcycles prior to a brake system tear down. I rebuilt all three calipers (cleaned the pistons, replaced all seals and boots, installed new pads) and the front master cylinder. I would have rebuilt the SMC and rear master cylinder had I known the amounts of disgusting sludge that was in the system. There’s also the delay valve and proportional control valve which aren’t even serviceable units. Short of pulling all the hydraulic lines and tubes and running hot water through it, following the bleeding process in the service manual is the only way to clean out all that sludge. And what a chore that was. I miss the two piston single caliper front with single piston rear brake on my Hawk GT. What an easy affair that would have been to rebuild.
  11. Bought a used 1998 with 33k. I think an aftermarket R/R was installed but not sure which one (resembles a Rick’s) or if the wiring is kosher. Help a rider out? Am I good to go for now, leave good enough alone, or does it need some immediate attention? Thanks for your time!
  12. Good point. They weigh practically the same. Im partial to the impractical sport bikes like the RC30 or RC45 or 900rr. A sport bike that can commute and reel in highway miles to get to the canyons without too much discomfort is a justifiable purchase for me. Those Euro touring bikes are just not that interesting to me. If comfort is that much of a priority for commuting or highway touring, I might as well just drive a car.
  13. Tenere 700 is 450lb wet. Seems like that might be the sweet spot. Price it under $10k. That’s a viable target for the yet to be unveiled mid weight Africa Twin if they don’t want to challenge the F850 or Tiger 800 which is now a 900 now anyway.
  14. My last bike was an ‘88 Honda Hawk GT (647cc twin). Got her on Craigslist for $1900. The specs (58hp claimed, 39 ft-lbs) are similar to the CB500 series, but even lighter at 410 lbs full of fluids. ELF designed ProArm SSS just like our VFRs. It was fun to ring out in the twisties and effortless to ride around town. The lack of power and wind protection was annoying on the highways. That was the Hawk’s Achilles heel. I have to ride on 12 lane freeways for an hour to get to where these mid-weight bikes excel. So I’m weary of low powered bikes. Here she is 25 miles up the mountain parked next to a couple $15k Super Teneres. I had just as much fun if not more on the twisties, but the Super Teneres had an easier ride on the super slab with the semis. Bikes are all about their intended use and an exercise in compromise.
  15. 49 hp, 39 ft-lbs 😞 beginner bike specs. They should have made it a 700 twin with ~70 hp to compete with the Vstrom 650. Instead they have a gutless NX700. But, at least we can maybe expect to see a AT800/850 with hopefully ~85 hp. Something in the F850 class. What the hell is Honda doing these days other than producing a $184,000 1000cc V4 streetbike that makes 101 hp.🙄
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