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8200rpm

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8200rpm last won the day on December 30 2019

8200rpm had the most liked content!

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About 8200rpm

  • Rank
    Club Racer

Profile Information

  • Location
    Costa Mesa, CA
  • In My Garage:
    VFR800Fi 1998

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182 profile views
  1. Can you remove the rear wheel without dismounting the exhaust pipe?
  2. Bought this awesome ‘98 49-state model with a weeping thermostat hose. Level in the reservoir drops about 1/4” every 1k miles or so. Just enough to make a stench every ride but not enough to drip on the ground. Major chore getting the airbox and all the connectors and hoses off. That little hose attached to the bypass control solenoid gave me the fits! I also needed a 4 foot piece of wood to dislodge the throttle bodies from the intake boots. I found one screw, a collar and and two washers in the V crevice. Hope to never see this part of the bike once I’m done. Replacing 10 coolant hoses, 5 o-rings, a thermostat and a new radiator cap for good measure. Between rebuilding calipers and bleeding the linked braking system and replacing the thermostat on a VFR, I think most other bikes will be much simpler to work on. Anyone ever clean, balance and calibrate injectors? Can I remove the fuel rail without disconnecting the fuel lines from the gas tank?
  3. I’d rather spend my money on Honda reliability and refinement. Honda VFR1000F, 140hp/80ftlb, <500# wet weight, adjustable USD fork with radial brakes, TFT screen, electronics with at least 3 ride modes (rain, tour, sport, track - including ABS/TC OFF). Split pillion with storage and USB port, heated grips, cruise control, up/down quick shifter. $15k. Sounds fair. NSX-like driveability, refinement and performance. PS - at least one NACA duct somewhere on the fairing for heritage sake.
  4. For those of us who fell in love with motorcycles in the 80’s and 90’s, we’re living in a bizzaro world. There’s much more variety in makes and models available today with more technology and reliability than ever before. But somehow, the bike that we think we want simply doesn’t exist. The 5th Gen VFR in 98-01 was considered the pinnacle of sport touring and MSRP’d for around $10k. That’s equivalent to today’s $16k. That will buy you a lot of bike! Ninja 1000, Ducati SSS, Honda AT AS, Super Tenere, Tiger 1200, etc. More power, ABS, TC, ride modes, better suspension, on and on...
  5. Okay, it’s been a few weeks since the rebuild, and the rear brake pedal started to feel spongy. Even at full pedal travel, there would be virtually no braking power for the rear. Pumping the pedal did help, but rear pedal would turn to sponge after a few minutes. Rear brake was essentially useless for stopping the bike at almost anything faster than walking speed. I ordered speed bleeders, silicone hose and the bag. What a difference that made in bleeding the system! It’s just so much easier AND FASTER than using a vacuum bleeder. I’m ready to toss the vacuum bleeder in the trash. This time when I bled the front center pistons, some air along with a significant amount of old dark fluid came out. This is the nasty old fluid that I thought I flushed out the first time. Also followed the service manual very closely. I must have gotten out of sequence the first time when removing, positioning, and re-installing the SMC. This time when I bled the PCV, I got a bunch of dispersed air bubbles in the fluid to come out along with a loud “PPPFFFTTT” and a few inches of solid air before nice clean brake fluid came out. All that air was still in the lines! I also re-bled the front outer calipers (front lever) just for good measure. Few tiny bubbles there, too! Now, pedal feels nice and firm but very responsive with good bite and power. Front is also improved with noticeable initial bite with progressively increasing power. None of that “gentle”, vague initial bite feel or rather lack of feel at initial application. For anyone thinking of servicing their brake hydraulics, forget the lame vacuum bleeder. They’re just so clumsy. Get the speed bleeders and the little baggy. It’s completely worth it. I was blind but now I see!
  6. I’m suffering a strong compulsion to add a second bike to the garage. Maybe something naked to complement my ‘98 5th Gen, or maybe something racier. I have several prospects in mind, and I have paralysis by analysis. Would you please give me your positive and negative opinions for any of these models with which you have experience? DR350SE 1994+ CB919 2004+ VTR1000F Superhawk RC51 SP2 2002+ Z900RS R Nine T Pure Wild card: HD Dyna Super Glide Sport 🤯
  7. Speed bleeders available: SB8125 SB8125L (longer nipple) SB8125LL (longer threads, longer nipple) OE seems to be all the same except the PCV and the clutch slave cylinder Front Left Upper Front Left Middle Front Right Upper Front Right Middle PCV (OE on this one might be M10) Rear Front Rear Middle Clutch slave cylinder (M10) What SB size should be used for the 8 sites on the 5th Gen VFR? Any difference between speedbleeder.com, Goodridge, and Russell?
  8. My first bike, too. Paid $150 for her back in 1993. Electrical tape seat, EX500 muffler, and I mostly kick started her because it seemed like a cool thing to do.
  9. They are not angled but square. Doesn’t matter which way they go in. The square also functions to retract the pistons once pressure is relieved by the master cylinder retracting.
  10. Had the same bike. Different paint scheme but white wheels, too. Impossible to clean all the grime inside the U of the spokes. I wouldn’t want white wheels unless they were solid with no nooks and crannies.
  11. I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and slave a couple weeks ago as a warm up exercise for the brakes. It was actually in worse condition than the brakes. Clutch MC was leaking fluid at the lever. The slave piston required a lot of elbow grease and 2000-grit wet sand to polish out the scaled up brake fluid.
  12. Thanks. It made re-assembly a lot more efficient. Took the assembly line route and did one task to all calipers at once rather than building one caliper at a time.
  13. Well, the good news is that the brakes work. Took her to an open parking lot and did a bunch of emergency stops from 25mph. Both lever and pedal are initially “gentle” and progressively “firm”. Rear brake is good enough to lock up the rear. Didn’t try to lock up the front, ☠️ Both brakes are good enough to smash my tender bits into the tank. Once I was comfortable in the parking lot, took her around town to get reacquainted with the brakes. Once I was comfortable with the brakes, took her to a low speed, tight turn canyon and did a couple runs. I had my fingers crossed for dramatic difference based on the neglect, but honestly the brakes don’t feel much different than before the rebuild. I do have peace of mind knowing that the pistons are not corroded and stuck, and the fluid and pads are fresh. Probably will install speed bleeders and flush the system in 12 months just for good measure.
  14. Thanks for the “Drill”. I’ll bust out the multimeter next time I’m free to tinker. Spent a couple hours too many in the garage the past couple days doing my brakes.
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