keef

For even more performance, you could remove the centre stand? Yes, a little jelous i dont have a set.

I think the nose cone needs to angle down a bit more so it follows the line of the tank, but i love everything else. Can you take a close up pic of the rad shrouds? And seb, those exhaust pipe tips on the performace headers. With a supercharger. Make it happen.

sebs is a lot prettier, but well, he is really, really talented. Link to my incredibly long running thread over the years. I still love it. The TLR rad works brilliantly, but is probably harder work than the vfr750 rad to mount. However, it works so well i may ditch the oil cooler.(or change to a water/oil cooler). I also know of someone who is running a vfr400 set of front mount rads on his fighter.

Why are there no lairy colours? Only me?

Nothing that fits without some custom work, either to make the cbr stand fit the vfr bracket, or to make the cbr stand and bracket for the vfr stand. I've got a custom bracket to fit the cbr stand and bracket. Thinking about getting the bracket remade to pull it in even tighter as i drag the stand around left handers at the track.

Real easy to fit a 6th gen tank to a 5th if your 5th gen is fightered. I made a half arsed spacer, then paid seb for a properly made one.

I just paid. Gearshift got faster with sebs adapters and china reasets. Looking forward to next level.

It does have to flow, but it doesn't just mean the flat top of the pillion seat and the flat top of the tank. The angle of the crease in the tank, the flared section over your legs could line up with the angle of the seat. My higher, more angled seat meant I now had too much leg room, so was a good reason for rearsets. Where does the curve on the front of the seat match up with the curve on the back of tank? That's a really good starting point. I lined that up first, angle was secondary.

I like the higher tail, myself. Amd the tail is really long. Try and get it to finish with the back wheel if you can.

I used a 190/50 for a little while before i put the 1098S 6" rear wheel on. It was ok on the stock 5.5" and rubbish on the 6". 180/55 was better on the stock wheel for me.

I love the TL rad. So good i think it will handle oil temps as well, so id swap the air/oil cooler for a water/oil cooler. Its a big curved rad, so its really good at forcing air through it, especially on a fighter. I have a single TLR fan mounted out of the 2 a TL normally has, and it works well. Only goes above 95C when im in gridlock traffic, and drops quick once im moving again. Rad was $110 aus (china) but i did have to have inlets/outlets swapped over, and custom brackets, etc. Mine isnt a big bore motor like highsides, so works fine. It runs low to mid 80'sCelsius, so could cope with a big bore motor IMO. No fairings helps, obviously. Using 5th gen delk headers, but would like to do 8th gen performance headers when they are available to stop any heat soak from the headers on the low mount oil cooler. I built mine for track days and fast road use. If it handles heat soak from commuting, it is fine for fun stuff, too. The other option is using a vfr750 rad like seb.

I'm using the top rad from a suzuki TL1000R. Commuted yesterday on it for the first time in a while. 84*C while moving, up to 97*C in bumper to bumper/gridlock, then back to mid 80s again once i was rolling. Curved rad, and its about 440mm wide. Also have a larger oil cooler mounted low, originally sp1, but now a generic double thick ebay special. Tempted to go to a water cooled oil cooler.

There's my something new for the day. Id never thought of that. Explains why, when i rotated the oem symmetrical clamps to be forward on my old ktm 640SM it suddenly felt like i was holding the axle in my hands it was so responsive.

so that's where our written off bikes go. I don't think anyone is going to send you their docs for your to falsify. What is the COC?