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Mac Morgan

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About Mac Morgan

  • Rank
    Club Racer
  • Birthday 12/23/1945

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hockessin, DE
  • In My Garage:
    98 VFR800, 04 VTR1000, 77 BMW R100RS, Bultaco Streaker, RD400LC, KLX250, Ford Focus RS, 1952 Vincent
  1. Rearsets for 5th gen.?

    Once upon a time Harris in England made rear sets for the gen.5 but they're as rare as hens teeth. Don't bother writing them, no longer made.
  2. Chinese plastic

    If you're looking for something that fits, forget Chinese fairings! Looks good but tabs break, paint peels and they crack easily. Stick with OEM if you can find it. At least try airtech in CA.
  3. Lower bearing stuck in head-stock

    Don't know what you're working but take a dremel tool and using a small carbide bit, grind a slot through the race- you are going to throw it away? Then you can take a pin driver and get it out.
  4. Front forks.Aaaahhhh!!!!!

    I've owned 2 gen 5 since 1999. I've had all the issues common to the species but still think it's one of the best bikes I've ever ridden and owned. I sold my oldest one last year to make room for another project. As for the forks, I've never been 100% satisfied until I installed a set of Jamie Daugherty's adjustable dampers last year. He sent me a set of springs even though I had already upped the rate a couple of years ago. At the same time I dropped the steering stem to check the bearings. I have a set of tapered bearings but didn't install them. I thought the races had been hammered and was feeling a bit of notchy but what I found was a bunch of hardened grease. After cleaning everything up and following the service manual's instructions, the steering feels great. Jamie's instructions suggest 5wt. suspension oil and a couple of clicks on the damper setting. I won't say it improved the bike to Ohlins standards but the difference was very noticeable. In the past I've installed RaceTech's valuing on a couple of bikes. On my VTR1000 I ended going back to the OEM valuing with stiffer springs. I am sure some experimentation with different shim stacks can fine tune the front end but how many times do you want to take the forks apart. Jamie's kit does it all and he usually answers the phone and answers emails.
  5. Maybe time for a bit of lubrication? Never had a issue with either of mine.
  6. Not sure where the bike came from but I've rebuilt a lot of carbs and a pair from an airhead BMW from Texas had a lot of dried brown stuff in the float bowls. Some of it comes from contaminates in the gas. If the bike's been sitting, check the tank with a good led light and see what's inside. Metal Rescue (from Amazon) is a great product for getting rid of rust. Good luck.
  7. Rear Brake Locking After Pressing Pedal

    Just a thought here but do you all ever look at the factory shop manual? It got all the routing info for cables and hoses. Also shows how to rebuild every component on the bike and is downloadable on this site. Most of the brake problems I've run in to are the result of not changing the brake fluid. I did find a de-laminated brake hose on 40 year old CB400/4 as well as a stuck caliper piston. Make sure the return orifice in the mastercylinder isn't plugged. You can use. .009 guitar string to clear it... carefully! I just had my front end apart on my second 98 VFR in order to service/rebuild the forks, clean the brake calipers and was thinking of finally installing new brake lines. I've never, ever had a problem with either bike, both 15 yrs. old. While cleaning the calipers I was surprise how clean the pistons were but also how much brake dust was in all the nooks and crannies. All six of the pistons easily pushed back into the calipers with only finger pressure. The oem pads had plenty of life left so they got reinstalled. I think you can do an easy job of cleaning the calipers up using either HondaBrite (actually S100) or aluminum wheel cleaner and a good stiff brush. By the way, the notchy feeling from the steering head bearings turned out to be the 15 year old hardened grease on the bearing races. Cleaned and retorqued (good idea to use the special socket from Honda for that- don't know how you'd ever get it correct without it), it feels like a new bike. Also, installed Jamie Daugherty's damper kit. For the money, one of the best kits out there. Mac Morgan
  8. Have a Dekevic SS hanging on my garage wall - bought it about 4-5 yrs ago. After spending a couple of hours trying to get it to fit (BTW,the stock system goes right on), I fired the bike up only to hear exhaust leaks from every cylinder. The front header pipes were 1/2" out of alignment and the rears wouldn't fit into their spigots without some help. That's why it's on the garage wall! I do have one of their SS long oval slip-ons (the connector pipe's fit to the stock header had to be enlarged for it to "slip on"). I called to complain but got the "cold shoulder" treatment. But the muffler does look good, sounds good without being obnoxious. Just thought you all would like to know. Mac Morgan
  9. Veefer Madness

    Umm, maybe you should of left the bike alone and just ridden it. That's what I usually do. Mac
  10. Understanding The R/r Inside And Out

    Having delt with the rr problem on my 98, I'm still curious as to what happens. My experiences all point to the connector from the stator to the rr. I've owned my VFR since new and have ridden it 20,000 miles in most types of weather. My suspicion is that over time, the connector gets some moisture from the atmosphere which inhibits a good connection which creates heat which melts plastic housing. I replaced my original rr last October 07 with one from Electrosport. I had to break the connector getting it apart and ended up replacing the burnt terminals with new ones... no problems during a 4 day, 1500 mile trip. Being the consumant tinkerer, I keep looking for causes and effects. I got a 4 unit Batterytender which I keep hooked up all the time (I also have an SV650 and a VTR). While trying to keep an eye on things, I probably created a poor connection at the terminal block and it ended up melting completely. A call to Electrosport indicated that they were redesigning their rr and would get it off to me ASAP - 2 months went by with no rr! To cure the connector problem, I could either solder the 3 yellow stator wires to the rr or.... use Posi-Lock connectors. I'd seen them reviewed on WebBikeworld (a great site btw) and decided to try them. So far, no issues. I also mounted a small CPU fan to the rr which reduces it temperature by about 20-30 degrees. Have I fixed the problem? I don't know yet. I haven't seen the fuse or the associated link overheat either. Mac Morgan Hockessin, DE

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