Jump to content


Member Contributer
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Lannyl81 last won the day on January 13

Lannyl81 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

13 Good

About Lannyl81

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Green Valley, AZ
  • In My Garage:
    1997 VFR 750F, 1985 VF1100C V65 Magna

Recent Profile Visitors

3020 profile views
  1. Wow....guess I am somewhat lucky as I was able to replace this hose about three years ago with a Honda OEM one.
  2. Easy to find this on ebay; you might find someone here that has a spare, but have seen these on ebay. I probably have the hydraulic hose as I replaced all of mine with braided stainless steel lines, but still using the master cylinder/lever assembly.
  3. I agree that both tires I have seem to me to have alot of tread left with having 10k miles on them, especially the rear. I was only replacing due to age.....if I remember correctly both have a 2013 mfg date. These tires were on there when I purchased the bike 5 yrs ago (next month). Appears my riding style yields higher mileage than most....so I probably do not need a tire that is made with long wear tire life. I agree that I do not need the GT version of the T31s....and would not mix them. I have read that all Bstone tires give a harsh ride. Sure do not want that on these "wonderful" roads around Southern Arizona. Thanks for the replies.
  4. Looking into the T31s..... Well now a bit confused with the T31s....the rear GT version is supposed to be for heavier bikes, but has a one number lighter load rating than the rear non GT version...does not make sense; the rear GT has 3 nylon, 1 steel belts....non GT has 2 nylon, 1 steel.....,makes sense that GT is a heavier construction.. The rear GT is available in a 170, the non GT is not, would have to use a 180.....???? Can someone explain this to me?? Also I need a tire for hot dry pavement, usually with some sand, not improved wet traction.....I live in the desert, not out when it might rain.
  5. So thinking with about 10k on the tires now, PP front, PR3 rear....time to replace them, although tread still looks good on both, see pics. Anyways as everyone here knows, finding a 170/60 is a problem. I am not an aggressive rider by any means, I just do a day-out riding the roads around Southern Arizona, no peg dragging....so do not need the grip of a sport tire like Pilot Power 2CTs which would probably not yield much in the way of mileage. Never two-up, not carrying much luggage, although I do have hard cases for it now. So what are you guys using on these days?
  6. Just wanted to update this and report that I did get the Givi cases and rack. The cases are road-rashed as he got hit by a car, but they still lock and seal just fine, just do not look the best. The rack is in pretty good shape, just a bit of some surface rust; might get them powder-coated depending upon cost. Have not had time yet to mount them onto my '97, still in the moving process and bouncing between two houses. I will take a few pictures and post them soon.
  7. The seller has told me that the cases have a label with "38" on them; thinks this means 38 liters. Also these are Monokey cases. I am going to try to get everything today and then try to find new cases. Correction: monokey
  8. E41 cases......so now I have something to look for. Yeah I see that there are ALOT of Givi cases out there, I just have no idea how to determine which ones would fit the rack for my '97. Thanks.
  9. I have an opportunity to obtain a rack along with dented and scratched-up side cases for my '97. In talking with the owner he thought new GIVI cases would still be available as they are somewhat universal, it is just the mounting rack that quite difficult to locate. I know nothing about GIVI cases and what fits a "97 and was hoping that someone here could "school" me on these; what would I look for and all...... Appreciate any info.
  10. Since I have no idea the age of the plugs I do plan on replacing them before Spring arrives here. Clogged idle jet....guess it could be....if something got through the filter and into the float bowl on one carb and then clears-up after getting up to full temp....but then becomes clogged again when it cools down. I need to determine which cylinder it is somehow.....IR temp gun on the exhaust might tell me. Although just pulling the plugs and taking a look at the color might tell me or I could also measure the resistance of each one to see if one is higher than the other three. Things to try....when I have time. Thanks for the thoughts.
  11. I have noticed since the cooler weather arrived (Oct- present) that upon engine start that one cylinder is not firing all the time. Depending upon the length of time since last ride and the air temp determine how long I let the engine warm-up before taking off. After about 2-3 minutes of slow riding through the neighbor and then out on a main road for a mile or so, all is fine and running strong and is fine the rest of the ride, but this returns for the next ride which is usually a week + later. I have not changed or even checked the plugs yet. I did pull the carbs off at the end of my first summer due to fuel leaking and then the next summer I had to replace the coolant O rings due to a coolant leak...but nothing else "engine-wise" in my five years of ownership other than oil changes. Just thought I would ask for comments/suggestions......thanks
  12. coupedupsibie: I did send Thurn an email asking about the rear turn signals; got a reply back that they use LED boards, not bulbs...so my idea will not work. I like what you did with the front signals though and I think I will do the same.
  13. Ok got it....made sense after I re-read your posting. Somehow I got the idea that you installed switchback LEDs in the rear signals. So the Thurn clear rear turn signals have an LED board in them; not an 1157 LED "bulb"....is that correct? The front Thurn clear turn signals do have an 1157 LED "bulb", correct? I like this idea of having additional white running lights but then switches to amber when turn signal is activated. This is how my car works. Now if the Thurn rear signals used an 1156 bulb it might be possible to remove the 1156 socket, replace with a 1157 socket and then mod the wiring to have both rear turn signals become additional brake lights if a dual color red/amber LED 1157 "bulb" is available. Would just need to figure-out how to have the turn signal flashing when the brakes are on so that both amber and red are not trying to be on at the same time....that would not look very good. Thanks
  14. SlickWeevil: hey I received the pair of LED bulbs from Amazon, got them installed right away and YES!!…..nice and bright, strobe works well, although I wish the strobe function lasted longer. A huge improvement over the OEM 1157 bulbs, especially in heat!! coupedupsbie: a bit confused by your reply above; you installed switchback bulbs?....in the rear?...but the turn signal indicators are separate from the tail / brake light....or did you mod the wiring such that the turn signals become brake lights as well? That would be awesome....three brake lights.....that should be visible to almost everyone...
  15. Hi Lannyl81, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.