Lannyl81

Idle jet changed. I did record the original mixture screw positions, but put all to 2 turns out per instructions. I checked my '97 Service Manual and it has a different initial setting for the mixture screws than the 94-96 SM.....so I turned all screws in to about 1.5. Cold engine started right up....cold being about 50°F air temp. Idle was spot-on at 1k after a few minutes, choke off of course. Will need to re-synch...will do that today. Oh and yes, very small changes to the synch screws. And getting to the fuel mixture screws.....#1 & #2 easy.....#4 not too bad....but #3!....would never be able to get to it with engine running without burning a lot of skin....not with the tool I have anyways.

Ahhh....those were the days.....

Installed a stage 1 jet kit into my '97 due to using a slip-on with the dB killer plug out, to take care of the stumbling I had at take-off. I set the pilot screws at 2 turns, did the synch, but not the idle drop, do not have the tach for that. On the test ride went to fuel-up, distance of about 10 miles, engine up to temp, stopped at fuel station, engine off for several minutes as I fought with the pump not taking my credit card....gave-up and went to go to another pump, hit the START button, engine turned-over as usual, but would not catch/fire. Tried multiple times, no go...finally gave the throttle a twist with START button down and engine fired-up. Went to another pump, got fuel, this time I twisted the throttle with START button down and engine fired right up. Sooooo is this the pilot screw setting incorrect? Oh and bike ran GREAT!....no more stumble at take-off....yeah!

I did remove and measure all of the shims; made a spreadsheet of original measurements/shims and then the ones I changed.....ready for the next time. Overall job was not all that bad....never dropped a shim. I did get the front intake cam off a tooth as I did not allow for the position change when the cam holder is tighten.....but saw it after I had tighten it down....so I got to take it back off, move the cam a tooth and do it again. Rotated engine many times and watched the cam/valves/pistons through the firing order....all was good. Got a tube of the HondaBond for the half-circles on the head covers, put everything back together. Connected my carb synch lines, waited a few days so the HondaBond to set, then applied power to the fuel pump to fill the carb bowls, then hit the START button, engine fired-up pretty quickly. Over about two days I adjusted the carb synch, got the carbs levels within 2mm...called it good. Put side fairings on, waited for a warm day to take it out, which was yesterday.....ran good but with a hot start problem....starting new thread. Thanks again for all the help.

Not the O-ring for the drain screw, nor the O-ring for the slide needle.....these were included in the kit. I was able to measure the old O-rings and purchase new ones. The company in Poland responded saying they have sold these kits for years without any problems, so they refunded be $6. Of course the new O-rings were 3x times. Anyways all back together.

Yeah that is the way to go.....drill-out the rivets and then find new O-rings. Will do. Thanks.

Searched for a carb kit for my '97, found two sources, both of which showed the contents; gasket for the float bowl, carb to air plenum, drain screw, float valve and a small "fat" O-ring...which I assumed to be for the pilot/fuel mixture screw. After purchasing a kit, then taking the carbs apart I found the pilot/fuel mixture screw O-ring to be considerably different. The O-rings I removed where about 1mm thick; the "fat" ones were 3+mm thick. I tried to get it to work, but would not....had to purchase additional O-rings. Now I am wondering if these "fat" O-rings were for somewhere else, perhaps the fuel enrichment/choke screw?....I did not take this apart....anyone happen to know? I have been emailing the company I got the kit from, which is in Poland, so there is a language barrier, trying to find-out more about these "fat" O-rings....not having much success. Appreciate any insight.

The carb kit I got came with four really thick O-rings that the ID fits onto the fuel/pilot screw but are way too thick to go into the carb.......so I need to get four correct O-rings. Anyone happen to know the size of them? I measured one and I think I have the correct size, would like to check before ordering them. I measured 2.8mm ID with 1.3mm thickness. Part number is 18-4617 for this one. Is this correct?

Short Update: received the new shims, installed them and swapped one shim to another location. Put the cams in, rotated engine, checked all valves again and found that #4 inside intake was WAY too tight at about 0.003". Removed the intake cam, checked the shim and I had written the initial shim measurement down incorrectly, so my calculation for the new shim was wrong. Re-calculated and found that one of the shims I had removed would work. So in it went then the cam. Rechecked and all is good now. Just waiting for the Hondabond HT sealant to arrive. Gives me time to do additional cleaning and besides it is too cool to ride anyways. Thanks for all the help.

I checked-out NRP Carbs and they do have it....shipping to USA not cheap though.....still searching for one on this side of the pond.

Removed one cam at a time, removed the shims that needed to be, measured it, then put everything back, cam holders in place, just not torqued down. New shims on order. Of the 16 valves, 8 were needing thinner shims to increase the clearance. Is this normal?

Took one cam out at a time, removed the shims that needed to be, measured them, determined size of new ones needed, ordered them. I put the cams back in for safe keeping while I am waiting for shims to arrive next week.

Valves are not really out of spec....just at the tight limit.....but agree with you.....remove the cams and change the shims to get the clearance in the middle of the spec. Have been reading the Honda Service Manual, looking at the pictures as well.....just a bit nervous. I did remove the radiator....it is easy and quick to do...yields more room....plus I can clean-out all the bugs (again). Time to head-out to the garage.....

Grum: you are correct, #3 is closing, not opening....forgot that cams turn CCW when I wrote above......duh!.....thank you. Will be removing the rear cams this afternoon.

Have questions on removing the camshafts; with crank at "T1", both 1 & 3 camshafts gears have the lines level with the head...exactly where they are supposed to be, cylinder #1 is at TDC, but cylinder #3 is not as the intake cam lobe is just beginning to open the valve. So is the 1 & 3 camshafts removed with #3 not at TDC? I have not checked, but I assume that 2 & 4 are going to be the same, with #2 at TDC, but not #4. Just want to be sure I am not missing something before I remove the cams so as to correct valve clearances.