WGREGT

Hey VFR peoples. I've got the Oxford heated grips on my 6th gen. Had them on....8 years or so now maybe? And they are....not in good shape. Just super-soft and almost jelly-like. A fingernail could pull out large soft chunks at this point. If you turn the grip with a bare hand, large chunks of tar-like stuff comes off on your hand. It would be a mess on gloves. If you slowly rotate the throttle, you can see large cracks in the grip, so if I grabbed a big handful I get the feeling they would just disintegrate on me. So I've been riding the other VFRs/VFs/ZX for a while, trying to locate another set of replacement grips. Oxford HQ in the UK tells me I have the COMMUTER series, and that the grip jelly-like state is to be expected after many years/miles. So they sell JUST replacement grips. And they still make my COMMUTER pattern and have them in stock. Wonderful. Just swap these out and re-plug and get on down the road. What they DON'T have, apparently, is a US retailer. And they don't sell direct to me. Revzilla sells some, but not this pattern, and didn't seem to be bothered to order me a set in their next order from Oxford. I've tried retailers from our great white neighbor to the north (PS Go Oilers! Hockey-playing son and I are possibly the biggest EDM and McD fans their might be in the US), but have not heard back. So I thought I'd see if anyone is headed across the pond this summer (or perhaps a Brit visiting the US?) and fancies perhaps helping a VFR member out?

And the fluid could not have just evaporated? I don't see a leak anywhere. All the insides of the fairing still has dust all over it. I'd see a trail if it ran down the inside of the fairing. It was parked on a foam mat, and anything wet shows up easily. Not a mark on it. Nothing on the hoses from the res either.

yeah I guess there's a reason that banjo bolt has a white mark on it. Must need semi permanent loctitie on it? Not sure how it moved enough to let air in there. Its not a bolt I normally check for maintenance.

I swapped out the speedbleeder for an OEM nipple and there was no change. If I pumped the lever 25-30x I did get the fluid to jump out a bit more forcefully but there still wasn’t any pressure on the lever when released. So I held the lever in and cracked the banjo bolt till I saw fluid weep out. Yes! Closed it and pumped the lever. Little bit firmer. Did it again and got fluid at the banjo bolt come out with some force behind it this time. The third time it really came out strong and I seem to have good feel at the lever now. Did not get a chance to ride it bc it was time to leave for hockey but it sure feels strong now. Buttoned it back up after fluid was clean and moving good at the nipple. Thanks for the tips people.

I can try that. I'm wondering if I will be able to get any pressure at all on the lever. I'll give it a try.

Hey Cptn. Not a drop of fluid on/around the bike or inside the side panels anywhere. The fluid was in good shape, full, and clean when parked. Never had any issues at all with this bike on the clutch. I filled the reservoir and pumped and got fluid to slowly come out of the tubing at the speedbleeder all the way into the bottle. But it was slow...like 14 lever pumps got the fluid ot move .25" kinds slow. Last driven about...10 months ago. But it was hot in the garage I'm sure over that time. The little metal tab that sits in the bottom of the reservoir (circular with a tab on it) is in good shape. Not bent or floating around in the reservoir...its in the recessed hole in the bottom. Didn't have any butter in the reservoir and what was in there wasn't dirty. Just not enough to cover the bottom of it. Had a small bit in one corner. I love these speedbleeders but maybe it has failed and let air in somehow.

Hey guys. Thought I’d check the wisdom here for something on my 6th Gen. Been a while since I have ridden it and noticed the clutch lever falls to the bar. No “pushback” behind it so I cannot move the bike. Opened the cap and it was near empty. I have speed bleeders all around so I opened the nipple and filled the reservoir with fresh fluid and I can see fluid moving thru the clear tubing on the nipple. Put everything back together and…no change at all. What would you check next?

Just now got a response: "Hi, Yes, on my info, best to just send them to my site, AZV65.com and they can contact me that way. You can also list my email if you like it is azv65@aol.com, name is Tom and I live in Gold Canyon, AZ. Please note that I rarely answer the phone (number on my site) due to so many solicitations, so ask them to text first and I can add them to my address book, then talk if necessary. I have my info on some of the forums and may be interested in advertising with others if you can send me some of their links, I will check it out. I am no longer on ebay. My username on there is Baxter7092 so people can see my feedback etc. It is just insane on ebay, so any help my way would be great. 😊 FYI: I currently have about 100 overhauled pumps ready to ship for about 35 different models. Thanks much, Tom PS: If you have multiple pumps to be overhauled, I can reduce the price from my site. Also, I am looking for old pumps if anyone has some laying around. Thanks." There ya go. If you use his services, post back and let us know how it went, yeah?

Found this just now looking thru CL. Don't know the guy, never used his services. However...if my 4th gen water pump was out and I could not find one (I *think* they are NLA now? Seems I remember reading that here.) OR....if my 85 VF500F needed a pump...then I might get in touch with this person. I just wrote him to get direct contact info and his permission to post it b/c...well..CL ads expire and one day someone will come here, click on this link and....be disappointed. I know I've done that. So...I'll post back here with that info when I get his OK. https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/mpo/d/gold-canyon-honda-v4-motorcycle-water/7297095394.html

Anyone know a shop in the Dallas area that works on older Hondas?

Anyone in the Dallas area know of a good mechanic for older sportbikes? Non-dealer/small shop would be fine as long as they know what they are doing. Most shops won't touch older stuff at all.

Mine are so jacked, torn and flat I'm not sure I have a measurement to go by. Anyone have one handy and can tell me the specs, etc?

Hey anyone have a part number or possible equivalent part number for the tiny o rings on the pilot air screws? I have a definite leak on one at least. Fiche shows I need to buy an entire kit? Surely there’s a cheap and accessible substitute, right?

Cool. Have him post up his opinion if he has one. Love to have him weigh in.

If I can see thru all of them, they should be clear.