Renevator

Thanks JZH, much appreciated.

Be interested to see your results post clean. I can't get Simple Green here in the UK but I can get Bilt Hambur Degreaser which by all accounts is good stuff. Best of luck with your refurb.

Hi Renevator, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

I'm rebuilding an RC36 and would like to get the engine cases looking good again, and would appreciate any input from you guys who've done so, or know of a way to get good results. I'm not intending to take it apart, so soda blasting etc is out of the question, but the engine is complete and out of the frame. I've been going round in circles trying to discover the best way of doing this. I've boiled it down to the following: 1. Prep and paint with POR15 or Eastwood 2k Engine enamel 2. Clean with raceglaze Alubright deoxidiser then finish with raceglaze Jet Laq 3. Clean with brass brushes, on slow speed drill, or with scotch brute, with wd40 or penetrating oil, then coat with ACF50. The last one, I read on a forum where someone cleaned up an old air cooled Honda very nicely, but he didn't say how he protected the finish. My thought is just leaving it satin, then coating with Acf50 say once a year, and seems the most logical in a way, for a durable finish, as I know ACF 50 is great at protecting a surface. I'm not 100% convinced that any paint would last, but POR15 and Eastwood are the best I've come across. Also, does the engine have a factory finish? I've read that using aggressive abrasives kills that, and causes even more issues, though as its oxidised and pitted, surely the finish is compromised now anyway?? So has anyone acheived long lasting results on their engine cases, with anything not involving blasting of some sort? Any tips and recommendations much appreciated. I've got plenty of time so not afraid of hours of elbow grease if that's all it takes. Though it's protecting the finish that's the tricky one. Cheers!

Thanks Brian. Will try to borrow a bore scope as you suggest.

I've had a 1994 750fr engine sat in the garage for a few years. If I wanted to put it into the frame and get it running again what precautions should I take. It's still full of oil, but drained of coolant, no rad, carbs, oil cooler, exhaust etc attached, just the complete block. Been stored with spark plugs in and carb holes and exhaust inlet/ outlets stuffed with rags. The garage is unheated though, but not damp. Would there be any risk of corrosion of barrels or any other internal damage with it just sitting there? Ive been told that I should crank it over manually first, with spark plugs out, before firing up proper. Any tips on best practice for getting it going again? Any other advice on what I should look out for etc. Would the lack of coolant have caused internal corrosion issues? thanks

Cheers JZH, that helps. Looks like I can go with the 954/sp2 calipers and 600rr master or just a complete 600rr set up. 👍

Hi All I'm putting some Firestorm forks on my Gen 4 1996 VFR750, (with DMr internals hopefully), and wanted to pick your brains re caliper options. Ideally, I'd like to keep the coffin shaped master cylinders, to keep it all nice and symetrical in the cockpit 🙂, As far as I know the options for a straight fit (or very slight shaving to caliper/fork) are as follows: 1. Original Firestorm calipers + ST1100 master (14mm) 2. CBR954 calipers + CBR600R 2004-6 master (17.5mm/11/16") 3. CBR600RR 2004-6 calipers + master (17.5mm/11/16") 4. SP2 RC51 caliper + CBR600R 2004-6 master (17.5mm/11/16") 5. CBR600f4i calipers + master These are the only one's I could find that would match to a square master cylinder. These others would require their own master with the usual round reservoir. 4. CBR929 calipers + 19mm/0.748" master 5. SP1 RC51 caliper + 19mm master Someone I've come across on the facebook RC36 site did do a nice brembo option, so may look at that, though the cost of all the parts might add up. Am I right in my calculations, or is there another alternative? And of all these options, I'm thinking No.2 - CBR954 would give me the best set up - properly serviced/cleaned etc of course. Any thoughts and advice, and if anyone has some nice calipers for sale that would be even better 🙂 Cheers

I'm wondering if I need to rebuild the engine to some degree. I've had my vfr750fr completely dismantled for years (about 3). The engine is out of the frame, drained of fluids, with carb off and respective carb holes plugged with rags. I didn't plug the exhaust holes, just left to air, and the bike had been stored in a dry garage, but with no heating. Would exposed exhaust ports, No oil or coolant in it (oil cooler and pipes are also off) and leaving it completely idle done any lasting harm? And is there anything else I'm likely to have buggered up by leaving it stood unused for so long? Would condensation or slightly damp air have done harm to the valve seals in any way, or would the clutch, Pistons or anything else sat in the same position for ages require attention? My aim is to rebuild the bike but ideally not the engine, ( I appreciate carbs and all fuel related components need a clean/renew) but just wanted to check I've not been a total bozo and caused more problems by leaving the engine like that. Thanks.

It never stops surprising me how talented the members of this forum are. Huge respect TTC, that's an achievement to be rightly proud of, and congratulations on making the grade. Makes us 'average' guys seem even more average :-) Many thanks for sharing your terrific achievement, the photos, and reminding us of the enormous benefits possible when we.... "Never stop learning"

Druid & Arrow Thanks for the input - not too late as I've not even started on the bike rebuild yet - been organising our garden, rebulding shed, preparing to install a summerhouse so my wife has an art studio to balance the enormous amnount of time I will spend in the garage doing this VFR refurb . I've had some interesting input from variosu sources, and have narrowed it all down to the following forks: R1 (00-01), Fireblade 929/954, CBR600F4i, or Aprilia Falco Showa's, which would mean getting an engineer to make me a spindle to combine the Honda & Aprilia Triple Tree, frame interface difference. Yeah, not so narrow, I know. I will probably be swayed by the combination that gives me the closest trail to std (rake of course being fixed). I've not done all the calculations yet, but hope to soon. Mind you, I did have a suggestion to just keep the Maxton adjusted std forks, make a bracket to take some CBR900 calipers and spend the dosh on some lightweight wheels - now that's just annoying, as it makes sense, and now I want it all Thanks againg all for your comments - i'm learning day by day.

Reference welding the Thermostat housing (I know you've sorted it with a new item) if the material is anything like std footpegs from a yamaha (so presume Honda too), it won't weld. I got a coleague at work (top welder by trade) to fix a footpeg for a neighbour, and it couldn't be welded as the ali is a real mix of composites. Looks like that housing is too? Though you prob already know all this. :-)

You might as well - you'll only have to spend all that extra cash on Christmas presents at the end of the year, so enjoy it now I say That Dupli-colour stuff looks interesting - I presume you guys have used it before with good results - I will do the obligatory search and check it out.