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MadScientist

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MadScientist last won the day on January 18

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About MadScientist

  • Rank
    CommuterGP Rider
  • Birthday 07/01/1981

Profile Information

  • Location
    Wisconsin
  • In My Garage:
    98 VFR
    06 599

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  1. Whoops, I just sent you and Lance a PM in case I missed something. Should have checked here first. I still can't believe this is actually happening. Thanks for all your hard work!
  2. The traces of fine white dust are almost definitely old dried up dielectric grease.
  3. I have ridden both these bikes in the past year. Sorry if this comes across as harsh, but all your thoughts, feelings, and stats are irrelevant until you have been on both bikes. Is it worth considering both, yes, but spitballing on BMW or Honda message boards is actually more likely to give unwanted bias. They are both good bikes, one will speak to you when you ride it, the other will not. If you like them both after test ride, then bonus for you: pick the best deal that comes along. I would say overall handling between the VFR and F800S is a wash. I've upgraded my suspension significantly and the stock BMW isn't even in the same ballgame. I suspect the same would hold true of the BMW given the same level of mods against a VFR. While we aren't talking cruiser/tourer geometry, both these bikes have suspension and steering geometry that isn't what I would call flickable. For a pillion, the stock seat on a 5th gen is absolute rubbish. The sargent I have is worlds better and I imagine other aftermarket seats are comparable. If I was looking for a bike in this group now, I wouldn't be considering either the F800 or the VFR. I would be looking at the Yamaha MT09/FJ09 Tracer, whatever that model is called in your area. Loads of engine character, more flickable than either (lighter weight and steeper rake), and an 18L tank. I rode an FZ-09 (naked version, same frame) last September and if I wasn't in love with an Aprilia Tuono, I'd own it already.
  4. Hi and welcome, Have you test driven either of these bikes yet? I think that far more importantly than a tenth here or there on the quarter mile or 0-60 , you will find that the F800 engine is not even remotely smooth, by virtue of the 1950's era 360 degree parallel twin firing order they tried to "fix" with that 3rd connecting rod balancer. But why, pray tell, would someone want a 360 degree twin? The answer - so it has the same uninspiring, tractor-esque din of the boxer twins which can at least claim to be smooth. I mean think about it, they went through all the engineering to "balance" an inherently unbalanced engine just so it could sound bad, WTF? I actually looked at purchasing a BMW several times, one F800 and an RnineT. While they were both mostly competent, I found it impossible to connect with either one. They were pretty much appliances for road travel. And I don't get excited every time I see the laundry machine.
  5. Thanks for the laughs, made my morning better.
  6. I talked about this in the last thread. Basically there is no easy horsepower in filters, we are talking the last percent and trading something to get it. Edit: Found it
  7. Sorry it is not on the bike, but the landmarks on the old header will give a good idea.
  8. Just to clarify, is the $95 passivation an extra cost above the initial price of the header? Also, is Wade willing to add a 3rd O2 sensor bung after the final collector? If so, cost? We can discuss by PM if you want, but I figured others may want to know. Would be nice to have all welding done before passivation. I'm not sure that the 3rd O2 sensor bung is even necessary, so this is just academic at the moment.
  9. Welcome to the forum! Your English is better than many undergrads here in the US... Have you checked out Airtech Streamlining? http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/hondaz/VFR7501986-88.htm I'm not sure if they ship outside the US. If they do, I'm sure it isn't cheap either. Do you have a link to the French site? I don't speak French, but I am curious what they look like. Perhaps someone here may be able to help with translation too.
  10. Great job guys, I didn't realize you all were going to do additional R&D. Even though it didn't net any real gains, it is good to know that there isn't much left on the table with the original design. I've done a lot of HVAC pressure/flow analyses and have run into some unexpected situations in real world vs simulation vs fluid dynamics modelling. Matter of fact, you wouldn't believe how some simple things cause instability and pressure/flow oscillation. There is a lot that goes into managing interactions between turbulent and laminar flow regions. Just out of curiosity, are the welds/joints in the taper regions smooth inside? A discontinuous change in diameter (step up or down) will lead to turbulence that disrupts the speed of the central laminar flow region. Of course exhaust gasses flow in pulses, which contrasts with the relatively steady pressure of HVAC air handling fans, so there may be factors I'm not aware of.
  11. If it says anything about Kriega durability, my R25 is about 13 years old and has been through 1 major get-off and is still very serviceable. The only defects are a small wear hole from the accident (adhesive patched over) and one of the plastic clips that hold the adjuster strap tails is broken. Waterproofing of the interior is still totally functional, all zippers and pull tabs are in good condition, and all plastic clips (except the one) are in good condition. Prior to buying the Kriega, I usually would ruin a backpack in 1-2 seasons whether motorcycle specific or not. For the extra money spent, this bag has paid for itself in cheaper backpacks about twice now. Unless something catastrophic happens, this may be the last bag I ever buy.
  12. Couple things here - I don't, nor do bike or auto manufacturers, solder anything on a wire on a vehicle. SAE recommends against soldering as well. Solder wicks down wires, making them stiffer and joints more susceptible to cracking from vibration. Additionally, there are differing thermal expansion/contraction rates of copper, solder, and terminal which leads to loosening of connections. Buy the right tools, get high quality terminals from a trusted supplier or dealer. I dislike troubleshooting electrical faults, especially intermittent ones caused by cracked solder joints buried in the wiring harness. If you don't want to invest the time/money to get a good crimp tool and learn how to use it, then I recommend crimping with a cheap tool first and using the minimal amount of solder necessary. Crimping with a $5 crimper and cheap-o terminals is probably worse than just soldering alone, but it's a toss up.
  13. Thank you so much for posting the dyno graphs with the target AFRs, that helps me out for autotune. Looks like Attack Perf is running slightly richer than what I've set my Autotune target AFRs at. I'd be interested to see the full fuelling map, though it doesn't really apply to me (I'm running a 3 bar FPR). I don't suppose they gave you a full map of AFR targets... On that PCV graph, now I see what other people are talking about with surging on the PCV. I wonder WTF is going on between 2000/01 ECUs and the PCV. I've had no such difficulties with my 98.
  14. I'm fairly certain you are talking about exactly the same thing. On stator output wiring extensions, I think it is just the angle of the first photograph that makes those wires look small. Are those the three red wires we see in the second picture entering the latex tubing from the left? Ring to ring isn't a bad connection, there is a good amount of surface area and the fastener helps maintain good contact better that the spring tension of tin/copper terminals. Downside is that it isn't very pretty. I would encourage you to get brass screws rather than the zinc plated you are using. You've got a lot of dissimilar metals (including god knows what alloy the screws are actually made of) going on there and the chances of forming corrosion can be reduced. Think about the screws on an outlet or switch in your house, we are usually talking (plated) brass or tinned copper; I can't ever recall seeing steel of any kind. Maybe on really cheap stuff?
  15. Absolutely correct. There is no way to cram more current through a circuit without changing the voltage applied or resistance of the circuit. CCA is just a measure of current capability, not the amount of current that is delivered. It wasn't a 24V jump box, was it? The problem here sounds like a resistive short (like corrosion bridging two terminals) in the ignition switch. The ignition switch is protected by a 30A fuse, however you can do a lot of damage before that fuse blows. Imagine if you have 20A flowing through the ignition switch through a ~1.5 ohm load on a 14V circuit for hours. The ignition switch is not designed to dissipate that kind of power and would predictably melt.
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