MadScientist

Just out of curiosity, was the wire soldered (either tinned or to the connector)?

PCV requires an ignition module. Not sure if it is even compatible with the VFR800 PCV either - doesn't show up as an additional purchase option.

Yeah, I was concerned about this too when I saw it. I think it will be ok, but I can't say for sure. Some of the pictures look worse than others, but the one looking forward from the rear tire edge (picture 5) is reassuring. The lower O2 sensor appears to be above the pipe midline and at a slight downward angle toward the tip, even on the sidestand. It is close either way, that's for sure. Standing upright, it looks like there should be no issues. Just have to be careful with left lean until the exhaust is warmed up. Also, don't fill the exhaust with water when washing...

They are most likely 180 degree cranks like the VFR, NC13-NC24 had 180 degree cranks, NC30 & 35 had 360 degree (like the RC30/45 and early VFxxxF). Of course they could have later motor swaps or crank/cam swaps. IDK if the earlier engines are compatible with the later parts though.

Whoops, I just sent you and Lance a PM in case I missed something. Should have checked here first. I still can't believe this is actually happening. Thanks for all your hard work!

I talked about this in the last thread. Basically there is no easy horsepower in filters, we are talking the last percent and trading something to get it. Edit: Found it

Sorry it is not on the bike, but the landmarks on the old header will give a good idea.

Just to clarify, is the $95 passivation an extra cost above the initial price of the header? Also, is Wade willing to add a 3rd O2 sensor bung after the final collector? If so, cost? We can discuss by PM if you want, but I figured others may want to know. Would be nice to have all welding done before passivation. I'm not sure that the 3rd O2 sensor bung is even necessary, so this is just academic at the moment.

Great job guys, I didn't realize you all were going to do additional R&D. Even though it didn't net any real gains, it is good to know that there isn't much left on the table with the original design. I've done a lot of HVAC pressure/flow analyses and have run into some unexpected situations in real world vs simulation vs fluid dynamics modelling. Matter of fact, you wouldn't believe how some simple things cause instability and pressure/flow oscillation. There is a lot that goes into managing interactions between turbulent and laminar flow regions. Just out of curiosity, are the welds/joints in the taper regions smooth inside? A discontinuous change in diameter (step up or down) will lead to turbulence that disrupts the speed of the central laminar flow region. Of course exhaust gasses flow in pulses, which contrasts with the relatively steady pressure of HVAC air handling fans, so there may be factors I'm not aware of.

Thank you so much for posting the dyno graphs with the target AFRs, that helps me out for autotune. Looks like Attack Perf is running slightly richer than what I've set my Autotune target AFRs at. I'd be interested to see the full fuelling map, though it doesn't really apply to me (I'm running a 3 bar FPR). I don't suppose they gave you a full map of AFR targets... On that PCV graph, now I see what other people are talking about with surging on the PCV. I wonder WTF is going on between 2000/01 ECUs and the PCV. I've had no such difficulties with my 98.

I can't say anything helpful about the first 3, so I'll just leave it alone. For number 4 - the PCV + AT uses the LSU 4.2 sensor (yes, 4.2), I'm not sure if this has been updated on newer units. They only sell one replacement regardless, so I'd assume they are all 4.2. Dimensions of the LSU 4.2 tip in mm given on picture. The only part with holes for sampling is the conical part at the very tip. I can think of no reason that any part further back would need to go in the exhaust stream. Number 5 - When it comes to me, I'm still just going to use the one sensor in the final merge. If I was a racer looking for every advantage, then I'd certainly tune by cylinder. YMMV.

If you are OK with the signals flashing really fast, then disregard this. If you want the normal signal flashing speed you will either have to add ballast resistors in parallel with the signal LED OR acquire a solid state flasher relay that doesn't rely on the resistance of an incandescent light for switching frequency. Ballast resistors: https://www.amazon.com/4Pcs-Aaron-6ohm-Load-Resistors/dp/B00L4V9ECY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2WYD8NQ5HQQ0NAEFZD3A Flasher Relay: https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Electronic-LED-Hyper-Fix/dp/B00XAU66V4/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y4HD00YVM6XPBRZ8S3V8 Another possible issue by swapping from incandescent to LED is that your regulator-rectifier will have to dissipate more heat if it is of the shunt type (OEM, FH020AA) because this energy would normally be dissipated by the bulbs. If series (SH847) then this is not an issue. That said, this is a nearly trivial amount of energy, so it may not be an issue.

The bike doesn't know what gear it is in, but the PCV has vehicle speed and RPM inputs. I calibrated the PCV by entering the speed:rpm ratios for each gear by, you guessed it, riding around with a laptop stuck in a tank bag. This would be trivial to do with a dyno, however. You can purchase a display from powercommander that interfaces with the PCV and displays vehicle data, including the calculated gear position. I called it an 'internal gear indicator' because I can't actually see what gear it thinks I'm in, unless I have a laptop hooked up while riding.

As far as the PCV goes - I would say maybe. From the discussion here, there seems to be some kind of issue with the newer firmware and 5th gens. I have been running mine with no issues since 2010, I have also never updated the firmware. I run autotune all the time with a vacuum switch hooked up to turn the autotune off during overrun - I was getting really wonky trim values at low throttle openings until this was performed. I have tried running with autotune disabled and noticed no ill effects; of course this is just running the stored map built from the autotune data. If it is of consequence, I have calibrated the internal "gear indicator" and adjusted target AFRs for each gear, throttle position, and RPM. My O2 sensor is positioned in the 2nd merge collector (all 4 cyl) and I don't run any special offsets for the front vs. rear banks. I've been strongly considering MyTuningBike for the ability to run O2 sensors in each bank, but what I have works fairly well and the cost of entry for MTB is steep.