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MadScientist

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MadScientist last won the day on January 18 2019

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About MadScientist

  • Rank
    CommuterGP Rider
  • Birthday 07/01/1981

Profile Information

  • Location
    Wisconsin
  • In My Garage:
    98 VFR
    06 599

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  1. Absolutely the same reasons I change my own tires. For anyone else using the Harbor Freight changer, check out mojoblocks. I also have the mojolever. Good tools, if a bit expensive. Can't recommend them enough. Not sure what he uses, but I've been using a Marc Parnes balancer for years. I had the balance checked the first couple times and they were inconsequentially close. Takes a bit of time to check, add weights, then check again, but at least I know it is done right. I've made a set of "weights" that I tape on to do the balancing, then remove and stick the "permanent" weights on.
  2. Just out of curiosity, was the wire soldered (either tinned or to the connector)?
  3. Any reason not to use a caliper with the side bleed and banjo? Like this: If it matters, I'm running 83 degree Bridgeport valve stems.
  4. Unfortunately not, the panel is required because they are actually printed out on an LCD display rather than light flashes. Shame about the dash, unfortunately they are damn expensive on ebay too. If the wires and connectors are gone, it might be more work and money than the time it might save to re-wire the OEM dash. I see an immobilizer on the schematic also. Do you still have it wired in or did you figure out a bypass? My other possible suspects are wiring (as always) and 12. Starting circuit cut-off relay. Can you do me a favor and check the voltage at any ignition coil from red/black to chassis ground and at any injector from Red/Violet(?) to ground with the key on (no cranking)?
  5. PCV requires an ignition module. Not sure if it is even compatible with the VFR800 PCV either - doesn't show up as an additional purchase option.
  6. Do you have the R1 dashboard? If so, check if there are any error codes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1mNYU0Zr2M Report back if you do. Seems other people have no problems starting their R1s with broken fan or headlight relays; at least individually, they don't appear to be required for startup. That said, the ECU provides ground signal to energize both of these relays. You could check the cam and crank position sensors for proper function with an oscilloscope; you won't get any truly meaningful information with a regular multi meter.
  7. Yeah, I was concerned about this too when I saw it. I think it will be ok, but I can't say for sure. Some of the pictures look worse than others, but the one looking forward from the rear tire edge (picture 5) is reassuring. The lower O2 sensor appears to be above the pipe midline and at a slight downward angle toward the tip, even on the sidestand. It is close either way, that's for sure. Standing upright, it looks like there should be no issues. Just have to be careful with left lean until the exhaust is warmed up. Also, don't fill the exhaust with water when washing...
  8. They are most likely 180 degree cranks like the VFR, NC13-NC24 had 180 degree cranks, NC30 & 35 had 360 degree (like the RC30/45 and early VFxxxF). Of course they could have later motor swaps or crank/cam swaps. IDK if the earlier engines are compatible with the later parts though.
  9. Whoops, I just sent you and Lance a PM in case I missed something. Should have checked here first. I still can't believe this is actually happening. Thanks for all your hard work!
  10. I talked about this in the last thread. Basically there is no easy horsepower in filters, we are talking the last percent and trading something to get it. Edit: Found it
  11. Sorry it is not on the bike, but the landmarks on the old header will give a good idea.
  12. Just to clarify, is the $95 passivation an extra cost above the initial price of the header? Also, is Wade willing to add a 3rd O2 sensor bung after the final collector? If so, cost? We can discuss by PM if you want, but I figured others may want to know. Would be nice to have all welding done before passivation. I'm not sure that the 3rd O2 sensor bung is even necessary, so this is just academic at the moment.
  13. Great job guys, I didn't realize you all were going to do additional R&D. Even though it didn't net any real gains, it is good to know that there isn't much left on the table with the original design. I've done a lot of HVAC pressure/flow analyses and have run into some unexpected situations in real world vs simulation vs fluid dynamics modelling. Matter of fact, you wouldn't believe how some simple things cause instability and pressure/flow oscillation. There is a lot that goes into managing interactions between turbulent and laminar flow regions. Just out of curiosity, are the welds/joints in the taper regions smooth inside? A discontinuous change in diameter (step up or down) will lead to turbulence that disrupts the speed of the central laminar flow region. Of course exhaust gasses flow in pulses, which contrasts with the relatively steady pressure of HVAC air handling fans, so there may be factors I'm not aware of.
  14. Couple things here - I don't, nor do bike or auto manufacturers, solder anything on a wire on a vehicle. SAE recommends against soldering as well. Solder wicks down wires, making them stiffer and joints more susceptible to cracking from vibration. Additionally, there are differing thermal expansion/contraction rates of copper, solder, and terminal which leads to loosening of connections. Buy the right tools, get high quality terminals from a trusted supplier or dealer. I dislike troubleshooting electrical faults, especially intermittent ones caused by cracked solder joints buried in the wiring harness. If you don't want to invest the time/money to get a good crimp tool and learn how to use it, then I recommend crimping with a cheap tool first and using the minimal amount of solder necessary. Crimping with a $5 crimper and cheap-o terminals is probably worse than just soldering alone, but it's a toss up.
  15. Thank you so much for posting the dyno graphs with the target AFRs, that helps me out for autotune. Looks like Attack Perf is running slightly richer than what I've set my Autotune target AFRs at. I'd be interested to see the full fuelling map, though it doesn't really apply to me (I'm running a 3 bar FPR). I don't suppose they gave you a full map of AFR targets... On that PCV graph, now I see what other people are talking about with surging on the PCV. I wonder WTF is going on between 2000/01 ECUs and the PCV. I've had no such difficulties with my 98.
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