paulmeisterpk

2010 Honda VFR1200 53,xxx milesManual transmissionABS anti-lock brakesBike is in very nice shapeVery cleanVery well maintained Factory hard luggage HelibarsFactory heated grips with 3 heat settingsSaddlemen seatIntegrated Ram mount base in the triple treeThrottle lockDAM performance exhaust Rear preload adjuster is stuck Bike is located in Friendship, WI. Can bring down to Madison, WI on request.

SOLVED! I found the problem. Looking at the wiring diagram, I thought all 4 wires at the main key switch were connected when the switch was in the run position. It turns out the red and brown/blue wire are connected, and the blue/yellow and blue/black are connected separately, not all 4 together. The 12V from the battery source was jumping directly to the blue/yellow and blue/black, causing the computer to freak out and give me that code. What a pain. Thank you for all the help!

Here is the wiring diagram with things marked out better.

Well I'm back working on this project finally. I got the chance to check what codes are coming up since I purchased the R1 gauge cluster. I am getting a code 19 that won't go away. I can't clear it, and the bike is unable to start with it. So I'm going to see if the sidestand switch shows differently in the ECU when it is grounded or open.

I bit the bullet and ordered a used gauge cluster on Ebay. Uggg....It wasn't cheap. The US bikes did not have the immobilizer, so that is one thing I don't have to worry about. I will check the voltage at the ignition coil when I am back working on the car again next weekend. Unfortunately, the car is not near me during the week.

I do not have the OEM gauge cluster. I have a Mychron gauge cluster that I will be using, that is very small, as I don't have much room near the steering wheel. Unfortunately, I don't have an oscilloscope to look at the signals from the crank position sensor. I have a peak voltage meter and still get less than 1 volt generated. I will double check the kill switch circuit is working. I don't think it would crank the starter if it wasn't but I'll check. I will double check the bank angle sensor signal back to the ecu again as well. I do have it at the right angle, it has a large "UP" written on it. I have tried the other bank angle sensor as well (it came attached to the harness I bought), but still no change. I will check the 12V supply and grounds at the ECU as well. Yes, I had it running before the ECU was sent for reprogramming. I have tried another ECU with no change, so I don't think that is the issue. I'll check over the plug connectors just to make sure nothing has come apart, or terminals have pushed back into the plugs. I don't know of any way to get the codes using an engine light. I may end up wiring back in all the wires that would have been for the gauge cluster and buying a used cluster off of EBAY just to run codes. That will be a project wiring everything back in. Thanks for the help. Paul

Hello,I have installed a 2007 Yamaha R1 engine in my SCCA D-sports (P2) racer build.I got the engine installed back in summer 2017, and was able to get it fired up with the stock wiring harness, with a few connectors jumpered to simulate a key switch and kill switch, along with resistors to simulate the tip over sensor. I am not using the stock gauge cluster in the car.I started a new job right after I got it fired up, and sent in the ECU to superbike unlimited to be programmed with a more aggressive fuel and timing curve. I didn't get much of a chance to work on the car again until this last fall.I have finished with most of the other work on the car now, and tried to start up the engine with the programmed ECU this winter. I also have removed the connectors for the radiator fan relays, headlight, turn signal, and tail lights.The engine would not start. The starter cranks, but I have no spark.I have fuel pump prime, and i can hear the throttle servo power up. I pulled a plug to check for spark, and I have no spark, and the plugs are dry. No injectors.I have checked the cylinder ID sensor(cam position), and it fluctuates in voltage just like the service manual says it should. I also checked the resistance on the pickup coil (crank position) sensor, and it was within spec.I questioned whether removing the fan and light relays from the harness could have messed something up, or if the ECU could have been screwed up when it was reprogrammed, so I bought a used harness out of a running bike, and a stock ECU out of another running bike. I have substituted the harness in with the exact same results, and after that, the other ECU in. Still have crank, but no spark. The harness also came with a tip over sensor, so I was able to use that instead of the resistors, but still no change.So my question is, what signals does the ECU need to see in order to fire? Is there an output voltage test I can do with the crank position sensor? I always found resistance only tests to be inconclusive. The crank position sensor is a 2-wire sensor. Any ideas would help.Thanks in advance. Paul Wiring Diagram R1 07.pdf

I recognize those places. Go by them quite often.

Check with Jamie Daugherty http://www.daughertymotorsports.com Does he get them custom made?

Where can I get a stiffer spring for a 929 shock? I looked at racetech and they don't seem to have anything. I'm thinking around an 1100-1200 lb spring.

I always wanted my bike to be that dark blue color. Love it.

Awesome build! This is going to be probably the best looking VF that I've ever seen! I love the Black frame, with the blue and white bodywork! I may just have to take some tips from you when I restore my '84 700.