Dorian

I forgot to update this thread - took the bike to an experienced indie mechanic who did a proper test ride. And he thinks there's nothing wrong with it. This of course leads to the question of what I'm doing wrong with my gearchanges, but I don't think it's me. I've tried slow changes, fast changes, it doesn't matter, the gearbox is just notchy. He's adjusted the chain, but now it seems tight because it's clicking as I push it round the garage. Sick of it all now! Along with the gearbox and the fuelling (which is improved with my mods, but still not great in my opinion), I've pretty much had enough of it. Considering my options for a replacement. From reading around, there's a majority of happy VFR VTEC owners, and then some who aren't happy with the gearbox or the fuelling. I'm in that minority unfortunately.

It's got a gold EK chain so has been changed at some point prior to me getting it earlier this year. Chain looks in pretty good condition, and sprocket teeth look ok to me as well. It's a good question though, I am thinking of starting there and replacing them all. Finally found an indie mechanic that will test ride it, going in tomorrow. Really hope he can sort it, then I can get on with the other things I have planned for the bike like syncing the starter valves, private number plate etc.

Back with another update and I'd appreciate any feedback. The problem persists. High RPM upshifts to gear 3, 4, 5 (and probably 6) give me a crunch through the lever. No noise, but it's something I can feel with my foot. The shift lever is fine (not loose), and the chain and sprockets look fine too. Low RPM shifts are fine, and downshifts are all fine. The problem may have developed when I put Shell Advance Ultra 10w40 in the bike, although that oil is 4Y and MA-2, so it should have been ok. But switching back to Honda dealer's 10W30 oil hasn't resolved it. The other possibility is that the clutch plates are sticking slightly. However, there's no issues with the bike creeping. I think the total possibilities are: 1. Chain and sprockets 2. Worn gears 3. Clutch Any other possibilities?

Thank you! Still loving the VFR. Nice collection of bikes you've got there 🙂

Have had a look at the clutch operation from the oil filler neck. It seems ok, in as far as the plates move when I operate the lever, and the responsiveness is fine. What I am noticing is that things don't always move in exactly the same way. Most of the time everything moves, sometimes, the right side moves but the left side sticks slightly. Or, is that the plates should move separately and are sticking @BusyLittleShop ? Here's a video. https://photos.app.goo.gl/FMQWp3gTtpYuix5v8 This is with the bike completely cold. If that looks fine I will have to get the bike warm so that the upshifts get notchy and then check in the window again to see if anything different is happening.

@BusyLittleShop thank you - I really appreciate you taking the time to pass on all that advice. I skim-read everything on my phone the other day, but only now have had time to look on a proper computer and digest it all. Brilliant, very useful. And you're right - the oil made no difference. So it's a coincidence that the shifting issues started when I changed the oil. Changed it again on Saturday, back to 10W30 semi-synthetic (Castrol 1). On the test ride it was the same story - starts off fine but once everything gets fully up to temperature, upshifts get awkward again. I'll check the things you've mentioned and see how that goes.

Quick update - it took me a while but I finally got round to doing the clutch fluid. That went well but no improvement sadly. Upshifts still pretty harsh at high revs regardless of technique. When I got the bike, gearchanges were never a problem. Only rode it a few weeks before servicing, but even so I'm sure I'd have noticed an issue. So I am really pointing the finger at the oil. All the service history I have shows Motul 5100 10W/30. I probably should have continued with that but instead (trying to go for better quality) I went with Shell Advance Ultra 10W/40. The bike is 15yrs old, has 20k miles on it. Would people just go back to Motul 5100 10W/30 or consider the higher quality 7100 fully synthetic?

Everywhere when I engage squid mode 😛 In all seriousness, as above, I was looking for a 600, just couldn't find the right one, and this came in at the same price for a lot more bike, with a massive list of extras, and all OEM parts retained in boxes. Was too good an opportunity to miss out on. Owned a 2016 Fireblade SP a few years back so am aware of the mismatch between litre bike performance and road use. It only goes as quick as I ask it to. The downside is the VFR now feels a bit loose after riding the R1, and I'm sliding around it in my textiles. I wear my leathers on the R1. Need to find some smart looking tank pads for the VFR. Any suggestions? Most I've seen so far are for the 8th gen

When I bought the VFR I was hedging my bets slightly, deciding to run it alongside my Street Triple 765RS for a while. Anyway that worked out really well - I love the VFR. But I still felt like I wanted to change the Triumph. I had owned it nearly 4 years, and generally prefer faired sportbikes. Originally the plan was go full Honda and find either a Fireblade 954 or a 2007/8 600RR - something less practical to go alongside a great all-round VFR. Even started to shop for a 600RR, but then I saw a really nice R1. 2004, very low miles, Akrapovic exhaust and decat, Power Commander, Gilles rearsets. And all the original parts retained, in boxes. The seller even included a paddock stand and a dust cover, couldn't believe it. Here's the collection:

Thanks guys I appreciate all the comments. Good to know I'm not on the wrong path! Bike was actually booked in today for the clutch fluid but I had to cancel, and after thinking about it, am going to do it myself. Just ordered the supplies. Will get the fluid changed, but my gut feel is an engine oil change is going to be the solution. As you say @bmart it seems unlikely for a VFR to be abused. Classy owners.

Back with an update for anyone that's still following. As above I got the PC5 and tried a few downloadable maps, but they really didn't work, to a point where a fast ride had the bike misfiring and trying to throw me off. I found one map that was smooth at up to 4k RPM, with no serious issues, but it was all over the place around 4-5k rpm. Last week I got the bike into Dynojet Preston (FW Developments) yesterday for a custom map. And it was well worth doing. There was various rich/lean areas across the rev range and a big drop in power at the VTEC point. Perhaps caused by either the ECU or the map I was running trying to smooth out the VTEC transition. So, is the VFR throttle still snatchy when running a custom map? I'd say slightly. It's an early fuel injected bike so perhaps isn't as smooth as newer models, but as I say, it's slight. The main think is the bike is a pleasure to ride, and a night and day difference from when I got it and it was awful to ride.

My 2007 VFR800 has 20k miles and appears to have been really well looked after, so I don't think it's been abused. However, when the bike is warm and I change gear at higher revs and lots of throttle, I get a bit of resistance on the gear selector, like a crunching I can feel with my foot. There's no noise though. It only seems to be on the upper 3 gears. When changing at lower revs it's fine. I'm thinking of starting with a clutch fluid change (it's probably 4+ years old but still clear). My other theory is that it doesn't like the fully synthetic oil I've put into it - Shell Advance Ultra 10w40. What do we think guys? I don't want to start an oil debate but could a different oil be better - has anyone run Shell Advance Ultra? Anything else I should think about? I have considered whether I'm either rushing my gearchanges, or even not rushing them enough, but unless the VFR gearbox is unique, it's probably not that as I've not had this with any other bike.

I find the VFR a challenge to get onto the centre stand too. I'm medium height and slim build, but unfortunately not one of those people that's really skinny yet unnaturally strong! My technique is to turn the bars fully left, grab the left bar with my left hand, grab the rear passenger grab handle with my right hand and pull the bike backwards with as much downward force as possible on the centre stand using my foot. As others have said it's definitely easier with proper boots on. If I've moved the bike to clean it and have got my Nike's on, it's a struggle. Using that piece on the pillion footpeg looked like a great idea but when I tried it, it was too low for me and hurt my back.

Got an update in case anyone's interested The map I've settled on a Dynojet map that is described as being for a stock bike. It runs rich across the lower 1/3 of the rev range, this really helps with the snatchy throttle, and unlike the other maps I tried, there are no nasty side effects like surging and serious hesitancy. Surprised to see a standard map work best on a decatted Staintunes bike, but the numbers must suit it best. It's still snatchy at 4-5k rpm so I might set it a bit richer there and see if that helps. Not ruling out a proper dyno tune though, at least I know the bike will run properly with the right fuelling.

Bike spec: 2007 model (revised VTEC) PAIR system inactive Staintunes cans Motad downpipes (no cat) PC5 with o2 eliminators Tried the cozye map adapted for 06+ and that felt great but surging issues started pretty quickly. My bike doesn't have any surging with the standard fuelling. Also tried Dynotune 16-005-003 (2006-2009 model, Staintune slip-on exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter) and that felt wrong. Very aggressive and made the engine quite vibey, from looking at the map it adds more fuel at lower RPM's on part throttle. Does anyone with a European VFR run cozye's map without issue? I'm wondering if I need to restrict my choice of maps to Europe-specific ones.