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vfr200

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    UK
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR800

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  1. You don't need to put the clocks back on the bike - just follow the traces by eye and shove your multimeter on the end points to check for continuity. Take pictures of the blue/grey connectors on the bike and use the coloured wiring diagram linked above to help you see which trace is which e.g. the permanent +12V feed to the LCD is the red/green one on the blue connector. Purple wire is a bridge between the switched +12V to the clock and the permanent +12V feed to compensate for your rotted permanent one. Mr Grum's picture has one way to repair that; I've attached a picture with my fix which just bridged the broken trace slightly further up. While you're in there clean all the filth off the board and inspect the traces for signs that they're losing the will to live. One of my common grounds was on the way out (symptom: delay of several seconds between turning on the indicators and them starting to flash) so I bypassed most of that with the black wires. The white one was added by a previous owner and IIRC is the speed sensor wire going to the odometer.
  2. A further thought occurs. I've read elsewhere that the seizing can be down to the brake caliper mount seizing to the bearing carrier. Would getting the caliper mount powdercoated help stop it happening in future, or is that likely to cause more problems than it solves?
  3. Thanks for the tip, but I'm going to someone competent to get the work done because I don't have a garage, the nights are drawing in, and changing fluids is about my limit - I have an uncanny ability to round/sheer off bolts and given that the underlying problem is seizing-related I'd much rather make that someone else's problem. Linkage assembly/axle nut+washer ordered based on the helpful advice here. For the shock I'm going to go with YSS unless anyone can convince me that another option is worth the additional expense.
  4. It's going to a mechanic to have the actual work done because I don't have a garage, have limited tools and my mechanical skills are basically at the "I change my own fluids" level, so getting bearings out/in will be his problem rather than mine. I'm just wondering if a) the swingarm/linkage bearings ought to be replaced as a preventative measure at this sort of mileage while someone's doing work in that general area and b) whether there's anything else I should get him to do at the same time while the back end is in bits. Thanks for the tip on the axle nut/washer.
  5. My chain adjuster has seized. From reading these forums I'm assuming the problem is either filth in the swingarm or the rear brake disc holder seizing to the bearing holder. Either way the axle is going to need to come out, and since I don't have a garage or a particularly well-equipped toolbox it's going to the mechanic to get it done. The bike has about 70k on it and for the last 5 years (and 40k miles) it's been ridden in all weathers, including during the winter when the roads are salted, and if I'm being honest probably hasn't been washed down as much as it should. Dismantling the back end presumably isn't a five minute job, so what other parts should I look at getting replaced at the same time to get the most bang for my buck out of the mechanic's time? So far I've got a replacement bearing carrier because mine has suffered at the hands of the "hammer and screwdriver" chain tensioning method, and a new set of three bearings to go in it. I've also got a new OEM rear disc. Other bits I can think of would be cush rubbers, shock/linkage bearings and maybe swingarm bearings. Are any of these likely to be knackered at this mileage? The shock is the other obvious candidate to get fixed and I'm currently torn between a YSS one at about £300 or a Hyperpro one for around £400. Anything else I've missed?
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