stuartb3502

Welcome back. Seem to be mixed views about flapper and snorkel. I see quite a lot of comments from folk saying it made no difference and they put it back. But fun to play with I guess if you’re looking for that. Having solid electrics seems to be the number one thing. Many also suggest that suspension is specced for light riders and any fifth gen will by now need attention to get it at it’s best. That’s hopefully my winter project. I managed to grab a year in Tarn and Garonne recently, but the pandemic and other stuff scuppered plans for a permanent move. Hopefully will resurrect that although it’s now a bit harder of course. Enjoy your new home and the FV. If you’ve not been, I recommend a trip to the Pau Grand Prix (or the classic). I understand it was back after a pandemic gap this year and looked a bit touch and go. Hopefully it will run in 2023 (80th). Too many wheels of course, but still great to see how street racing looked once upon a time. And in a nice city too.

You hopefully have this sorted by now. Mohawk's link is for a new design. Electrex are real people at the end of the 'phone in the UK, so I'd suggest it's worth giving them a call to see what they recommend. they still list the one I have on my '99... https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=rr53&PN=RR53.html#SID=439 But it may be the newer model is better if they confirm it works. Worth checking with them if the new one requires changing of connector blocks (it says "on some models"). Sounds like that may be better longer term, but will require crimping and soldering (according to them) which may or may not be a further barrier. The RR53 is a straight swap. I did it a long time ago, but recall it being an easy job. They supplied a metal mounting plate (not now shown in the web listing) with mine and I used some thermal paste. But again, I'm sure they can advise.

I'm not clear on what you mean in your post by wide (diameter presumably?) or what is stopping the silencer/muffler going on far enough. (that sounds more like the length (i.e. measurement parallel to exhaust tubing). Anyway, I've looked at part numbers for 99-01 and they are all the same (I checked for England, but you could do same in USA in case there were market differences). I changed the gasket when I refitted mine not long ago. I'd bought the gasket a long time before so can't be sure if it was a genuine part or aftermarket. I know it took a couple of goes and the gasket got beaten up in the fitting (i.e. bits got pared off by the silencer as it went on). The diameter was slightly too big. But I think that's how these are meant to be. The muffler inlet will not be a precise size/shape (especially not on refitting) so the gasket has to be big enough to fill any voids and then the collar will cinch down on it. You certainly don't want it to be on the small side.

Hi, Sorry for delay. Brief answer, good, I think. I’ve actually videoed and photographed install and adjustment. I wanted to get some video at night of them in use. Did the ride, but video was no good. Will do again soon. But on that ride they were clearly a big improvement over halogens. I wasn’t quite as blown away as perhaps I was expecting, but when I adjusted I did set them on the safe side (i.e. a tad low) so long range on high beam slightly less than it could be. After another ride I’ll look at adjustment again although that’s much harder once fairings back on. I did not get any flashes from oncoming vehicles. When adjusting, the cut off is pretty good, but there is some scattering of light higher than the cut off. It’s much lower intensity than the main part of the light. It can be seen approaching reflective signs, but as I say, does not appear to be causing other road users issues. I will not be riding this bike much at night, so I’m more than happy as it was mainly about being more visible during the day and I believe they achieve that. Only pain will be having to swap out at MOT time. My tester does seem quite open minded however. Yesterday I had my other bike MOTed. That has some non e-marked aftermarket LED spot lamps which I forgot to turn off before the test as well as non e-marked LEDs in the handguards and a rear light bar. He commented that he liked what I’d done and thought this was all much better than the bikes that come in with mini indicators, so perhaps he’ll turn a blind(ed) eye 😉 Will try to get video or pics of light pattern at night up soon. I’d say you’re safe to give them a try if you don’t mind the potential hassle of a return if they’re not for you. In the meantime, some pics… Installed (note cable tie to hold longer cable out of way….makes putting fairing back on easier) From the front Light colour comparison light and cut off comparison (but note that the two different boards are different colours (you’ll see what I mean in next picture). Halogen on left has a better cut-off. This is pre-adjustment. Both LEDs in showing cut-off. A not very good pic in bright daylight. cheers Stuart

Ive been through multiple big screens on my other upright bike. It took years of helmet buffeting / pounding before I found that some deflectors sorted it out. What’s that got to do with the Viffer? Well. Ive recently come back to riding mine after a few years gap. I’ve found the smooth non-turbulent air bliss. Yes, you feel it a lot more, but it’s not noisy. I guess if you’re going to do longer tours you might want to experiment, but otherwise I’d suggest sticking with it fir a while before swapping screens. If you’re finding the different riding position difficult, then changing to a different screen might make that worse (as the air pressure is taking some of your weight at the moment) . And if you end up changing bars, you’ll want to do that before plumping for a screen so that you’ve settled your riding position. Sounds like you want to change the screen because it’s not in great nick, but having tried and then sold a double bubble, Id be tempted to perhaps ride with it as is for a while before deciding how to splash the cash. Apologies if any of this comes across as advice on sucking eggs. Of course, you’ll get different opinions…. Enjoy the bike!

I've used Plastex for similar repairs. Works pretty well, but you need to think a bit differently to glue. It's strongest when the original part and the new "plastic" are mechanically as well as adhesively connected. To do that, you can drill small holes in the existing parts you're joining on either side of the join. Then the Plastex is flowed into these and across the join. Fairing tabs is a an example use case Plastex show. They show how you can mould a new one (rather than just attaching a broken piece). The kit comes with a little reusable moulding stick. Heat in some hot water, mould around a spare tab and then fill with the Plastex once it's cooled. I've also used milliput to repair where some brass thread inserts fitted in a headlamp moulding and had broken off (different bike). Fiddly, but a strong repair which was almost invisible after a spray of Plastidip over the repair to match colour and texture better. Just been using JB Weld to repair some lawnmower bits. More difficult to use as it's runny when first mixed. I found I needed to set an alarm and keep checking after 2 hours, 3 hours etc and reshaping as it became more viscous/solid. No idea how it will stand up yet, but I managed to repair a plastic part which had self-tapping screws in. Was able to pilot drill and file sand the JB Weld as needed.

Not sure how they are installed, but agree that it's a very unlikely way for someone to try to steal your bike. When I got my bike out of storage I could not find my keys. Before I realised that I could remove the ignition lock with the triple clamp attached, I dismantled the front of the bike so I could get access to drill out these security bolts. Anyway, the point of my post was to say that I replaced with standard bolts, so yes, this can be done. Mine is 5th gen and unfortunately I do not have the order available to confirm the size of bolt, but I know ordered ordinary metric (M8 I think) bolts from ebay. You should be able to match them easily enough since you have the security bolts to try with a nut.

In answer to your earlier question about whether the sender and pump will be OK in vinegar, I would say no. I cleaned my tank with some citric acid based rust remover. I did not inspect the sender and pump before this, but certainly afterwards they were a bit of a mess and I ended up replacing both. I think the pump rubbers tend to perish anyway, so not sure that was my issue, but I do think that the acid ate parts of the sender (you've got exposed copper contacts etc which aren't going to enjoy an acid bath). It does make it hard to do the tank clean, but you'll be better off going to the trouble of making something to plug the two holes I believe. TIP: have a person (typically of the female or small, obedient child kind) with small hands/arms on tap to get into those difficult to reach parts :-). I also ended up using a chopstick with cotton wool taped on the end and a brass brush with a homemade longer handle for a few hard to reach spots. That and a camera and light placed inside the tank so you can see what you're doing.

Something like this perhaps: https://www.ebay.com/itm/164846154753 Fit, cut to length, superglue the join. Not tried, but have re-sealed a rear light cluster on a car with a similar approach.

Can’t vouch too much for this since I’ve not tried to follow it, but looked sensible and was easy to follow…

You can get the Honda coolant (type 2) from the car dealers also if that’s easier.

You maybe do. My experience of traveling abroad in Europe and the US is that roads many parts (north and mountains aside) are generally cleaner in winter. We have a particularly nasty combination of salt and grime from more wet weather which coats everything and rots it. Bikes that are ridden even partially in winter need as much help as they can get. Huggers, extenders, dunking in ACF50! 🙂.

"Just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in."