Knight

Yes exactly, the length, my bad on the wording. Thank both you very much! I did notice that the gasket is soft and compressible so I suspected such, but I have no personal experience and could not question this tech who is extremely aggressive at pointing out his OEM certifications. Needless to say, that was his last job.

1999 VFR800: My tech removed an aftermarket muffler and installed a Honda muffler. It will not go on far enough. The tech states the gasket is too wide and he has never seen anything like this. He trimmed 1/3" off the gasket and got the muffler on enough to bolt it correctly. The muffler is a revised part not the original (Perhaps it was created for the 2000?) and the gasket part never changed through the 2001 bike. I was wondering if Honda left the revised muffler backward compatible with the 99 but the installer has to trim the gasket. (?) It does however not seem right to trim these gaskets though (irrespective of if they still have asbestos in them?) Is there a method to press this muffler on further? Thanks.

I did some research in other threads. You are considering maintenance with Jamie Daugherty this winter? He will add a shock spring of his recommended ideal/maximum height. That is the best configuration. Exceeding said geometry will begin to diminish neutral handling and generate trade-offs in stability.

My 99 had this problem. Below around say 75°F, it would pant and die on the first attempt and start on the second attempt. This was after a valve check, replacement of all intake rubber, vacuum synch, and fuel injector maintenance. I used Sea Foam at the rate it prescribes for "cleaning." That helped the engine start and shoot up instantaneously, like a dart, to a high idle of 3200+. I cannot help but wonder where the problem was. Gunk built up in the fuel rail?

Black Widow UK has every size imaginable and relatively speaking very reasonable prices for new mufflers, although I do not know what the shipping cost can be.

My Celica weighs 2650 lbs (200 lbs or so lighter than a typical Civic from the same time period.) It has 4 massive disk brakes and performs 60 to 0 in 110 feet. For the VFR, with two thin tires, to perform better, to me is nothing short of unbelievable. Note that Daffy commented on the lever feel, the typical complaint of VFR brakes. I get it if people want a race replica ON / OFF feel to the brakes (I do not). The OP's need, though, sounds different from improving braking distance. Mello, you know that friction is calculated via weight. A big fat heavy bike has an advantage there, just like a car. Your point is valid but is also obvious.

Yea what Grum said, it may be that simple. I read into it that it was not running well, but if it is just idle, the starter valves are the idle control vacuum circuit. The manual tells how. You may find a youtube video showing a 6th generation procedure for reference, but note the vacuum specs are different so get those from the manual. Yes, for future reference the factory service manual yields some specs such as resistances/voltage/etc. and procedures, although occasionally helpful hints that an OEM certified tech might know are left out. A lot of people here can fill those in though.

Check for faults: Did you have this bike running well before this? Were you in the airbox since then? Check that sensors in the airbox are connected and (I can't recall) if there are identical connectors that can be cross-wired (TPS/MAP?). The same with the ignition coils to the correct spark plug. It might just be that a feedback signal is missing due to a bad connection or something is feeding back the wrong signal from a crossed connection. If you just got this bike you have to be extra careful to throw out assumptions and check connections from start to finish, validating that the prior owning did not insert a jerry-rig. If the bike had not yet been running well and all of that is good then yes you might need to use the specs in the service manual to troubleshoot the items you listed with a multimeter, checking fuel flow, etc.

As I type this it is night and I cannot access the bike right now. However I have the latest firmware version whatever it is. I have also had several versions of firmware. I bought the unit in 2014 so relative to our bike's age I have had all much never firmware versions but never had a problem with operation.

Sorry they must have purged it or changed the urls and I am not privy to the change. From memory I do not think that information would be helpful. I may have written there about converting maps from PCiii to PCV. The PCiii maps at Dynojet had a timing table attached, and even after converting a PCiii map to PCV map, the timing table remained in the PCV map version. That map would not load to the unit. That does not matter too much now as Dynojet has added a couple of PCV fifth gen maps to the site, avoiding the need to convert a PCiii map just to get a fifth gen map. Squamish regarding your request for help, you need an example of a 2000-2001 setup as those of us with 98-99 vehicles do not have this surge problem.

If the firmware is a problem Dynojet will most likely provide a prior version if it is not available on their web site. So just ask about reverting firmware to prior versions, and there would be no harm in trying several versions, assuming Dynojet agrees that it can be reverted. It is always best to check firmware procedures given the wrong steps can disable a device. Have you tried to see if the bike is storing a fault code while the PC is connected? My suggestion is on the other thread here: https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/87325-much-to-be-gained-from-power-commander/&page=2&tab=comments#comment-1081759

Several people with the 2000-2001 had the surging problem. I have a 1999 and it worked right out of the box. One would think your bike, in between the 1999 and the 2002, would then work. 😞 Try using the service check connector to see if the bike reports a problem in this configuration: https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/16-fi-light-how-to-read-error-codes/

http://www.pdqautosupplies.com/foreign-retainers I use this place to get fasteners for car engine covers but had not looked up the bike parts here yet. Do they cross over for Honda? Note the products are labeled by OEM brand replacement and the product page has all of the dimension specifications. Their service is good too. In a bulk pack I had two broken or incomplete ones. I told them just to inform them and that I wanted nothing in return but they sent me a large number of new ones anyways. I cannot say that they are great quality (maybe that is ubiquitous today?) Sometimes I use them once and on removal they show signs that they only want to be used once. However at 65 cents a piece or similar I do not hesitate to swap them out. Note that any slotted foreign fasteners probably demand a JIS screwdriver.

MS, do you have a PCV self-tuned map for the 1998? If yes would you please share the map and your bike setup?

I don't know bulbs nor your bike generation so someone else can comment. This is a conversion kit with ballasts? You may want to post the specifics. Regarding the light system, everywhere you worked inspect the wiring for a nick, pinch, or burn mark where a short could be generated. All connections are tight. A short is supposed to pop a fuse but if it does not it could in fact last a while unnoticed until the current burns through a wire or heat damage a fuse. Is the battery secure? Are the cables tight? The battery like the headlights is a "high power item" so it is one more thing to make sure after the last time it was connected that the battery did not bounce around, short, and there is no sign of burning on the bike near the terminals.