Marooncobra

Jelorian That pipe connects to either the vent pipe or the overflow pipe from the fuel tank. For some reason Honda didn’t use a continuous pipe to the tank and used that connector on one of them, I can’t remember which one. The other pipe, vent or overflow, has a connector that is at a 45degree angle.

Rgr. The set I have didn’t come with valves hence the visit to the fish shop. cheers

Good tip, Also go to a local fish shop and buy some air valves, about a $1 each, which will allow you to adjust each vacuum line to stop the needles bouncing whilst you use it during the synch process.

Angle grinder is your best friend here and replace the clamp with a new stainless steel version. Go slow so you don’t cut through the pipe.

By using the RC51 oil cooler more fins are exposed hence why I removed the scoop. I also found on very hard breaking that the scoop would bottom out on the front fender, track days only.

You need to remove the sump to conduct the tapping of the thread as that is the only method to remove the swarf completely, hence having to remove the exhaust. You don’t need to drill it as also for the oil cooler. I seem to remember I used AN6 fittings. Can check as I bought some additional 45 degree swivel joints but found the 90 degree bends worked best coming out of the sump pan. The other issue is when reinstalling the sump that you don’t overdo applying the gasket sealant where it meets the bottom of the engine. Too much and it will squeeze out into the oil sump and find its way into the oil pick up strainer. Too little and it leaks oil. Don’t ask me how I no!!!!

Jelorian My oil cooler lines were bad so I replaced them with stainless steel braided hoses and at the same time upgraded to an RC51 cooler. If you go down this line you will need to remove your exhaust to remove the sump and tap a thread into the inlet and outlet ports where the oil cooler lines connect to the sump using AN fittings. You will also need to to cut off the block connectors on your oil cooler and tap two threads so the new braided lines can connect using AN fittings. I also feed the braided lines in rubber hose And heat shrinked the ends to protect the fairing from vibration associated rasping from the braided hoseS. The last photo was my initial attempt to increase the air flow over my oil cooler to help with cooling through making a ducted aluminium scoop. When I upgraded to the RC51 oil cooler and braided lines I ditched the ducted attachment.

Jelorian A very nice brace of VFRs and in the fastest colour as well. As with kids, I hope you don’t have a favourite😂😂😂 WRT Moto GP, here in Oz they are showing previous years Moto GP and the best of etc. Great to see Casey Stoner leading the pack when he was still riding. I am going to be really bummed out with no Isle of Man this year though. To see those guys doing 150 mph + with brick walls Inches from their heads is amazing.

Great news. Nice to see someone posts the fix as most people probably forget to post as they are happy their bike is back on the road. be safe

8200 Having now seen the cut away of the SMC I think when I do my brakes next I will strip the SMC down and throw it in my ultra sonic cleaner and hit it for a good ten minutes with a brake cleaner solvent. It may fit in a peanut butter jar so I don’t waste too much solvent during the process. That hole is tiny.

Great update, many thanks. Looking at your old SMC is that crud or rust?

Duc2V4 I replaced my flywheel on my 02 when I replaced my crispy stator a few years ago as the bigger flywheel allows more power to be produced for the charging system. The biggest pain was tightening the flywheel back up. In the end I dropped it in 6 gear and got my son to stand on the rear brake to tighten it. I also updated to a SH847 series R/R from Roadstercycle. Although there will be sighs across the forum I fitted a Ricks stator as I couldn’t find another one easily in Australia to replace the burnt crisp. To date it has worked flawlessly, could also be the fantastic series R/R from Raodstercycle which I would say is the best improvement to the electrical charging that you can do for the VFR. Reduce loading on the stator and a direct charging path back to the battery. I now have a spare stator on the shelf which will hopefully be there over many years and not required Unless I need a paperweight!

NV2 The part number is 14524MBB000 - Cap, lifter Pat. You could try a normal magnet but it may struggle to hold the cap securely as you try to withdraw it. If you are thinking of just buying another cap you will need to check that the old one isn’t still sat in the block. The cap sits on the rubber plunger of the CCT and pushes against the chain guide.

N2v, Have you replaced them in the past or if the bike had a previous owner did he replace them as you might want to check that he put the cap on before refitting. If you think the cap it is still inside the engine, use a rare earth magnet on a piece of wire to fish it out. These caps are not secured on all that well and have a habit of falling off if you don’t withdraw the CCT gently and without catching the edge of the engine. Good luck

Motopilot Page 15-32 of the workshop manual shows you the two connectors. One is the rear light switch. The other is the rear wheel sensor.