Marooncobra

Hi what mirrors have you got fitted to that fine machine and did you need adaptors?

Does the noise go away when you pull the clutch in?

Mine is the same but I have heated it with a torch and bent it out for a more 90 degree angle

Lee I think you will find it is item 5 from the fiche. This is a plate to stop the two bolts from unwinding from the selector cover and hitting the chain.

I was tinkering with mine and decided to see if the flapper was working and I have the same issue. It does not operate in any scenario that I have put on it. Out of gear all rev ranges, in gear on centre stand all rev ranges both at cold and at temp. Tested with multi meter and definitely no current from ECU. Bike runs fine. I have O2 resistor plugs and a power commander installed, pair valve mod. I might connect light just to see if it works whilst riding. I also have a Girpo gear indicator fitted that taps into a wire coming out of the ECU but suspect that may have nothing to do with this issue.

I assume as it came from Australia it will have the HISS security system? If so you need to do more than just cut a new key. Do you have any key at all that starts the bike or the original HISS code? If not you will have to purchase a used ECU and the key associated with that ECU to get the bike to run. You can get these off eBay with all of the locks from crashed VFRs. I think there is someone on eBay that can cut a key and program the HISS key if you send them the ECU. Good luck.

Longer breaker bar or some heat on the nut. Good luck.

I think you will find that the flapper only works once you put in gear and release the clutch

I have installed the external connector plug which is permanently attached to the battery. When I need to trickle charge, due to long periods of no riding, I just hook it up and forget about it. I have done this with both my old lead acid battery and my new Lithium battery. I did have to change trickle chargers as you cannot continually trickle charge a lithium battery. My trickle charger is made by CTEK

The only thing iron in the system would be the impeller of the water pump, the thermostat itself, and a couple of hose spouts for the radiator hose to push on to (wax unit and top hose from water pump to thermostat housing spouts). Everything else is either aluminium (engine, radiators), brass (thermostat switch for fan, temp sensor for ecu/temp display), plastic (filler neck, y piece for radiator to pump join) or rubber (hoses).

When you pressurised your system, did you wiggle each hose connection? When I fitted my Samco hoses I could smell coolant even after pressure testing. I then tried again and wiggled the connection, whilst pressurised and not dropping pressure after 10 mins, and found three that shot fluid out. Had to tighten the clamps further. Still smell coolant every so often so I know a connection has come loose. I think it is the problem with silicon hoses from doing some research on the web.

I’ve got Staintune’s on mine and from standing at the rear of the bike the left hand exhaust is always warmer and has a higher velocity. I am not worried about is as from the bottom collector the exhaust gases come through one pipe and then split into the two exhaust cans, same as your Leo Vince system. If you stick your hand over the left hand exhaust can everything comes out of the right. WRT your idle and engine issues, have you got a volt meter installed? It could be your stator, rectifier/regulator or battery playing up especially if your fan was running.

Does the fuse blow immediately on inserting it into the fuse holder? If so I suggest you have a direct earth fault. If it only blows when the fan operates by the fan switch then the motor may have a fault. The power supply to the fan is live and it is the fan switch earthing, once the coolant gets hot enough to cause the switch to operate, that causes the fan to operate.

Lift the front wheel and move the steering left to right. It should be smooth and no notchy feeling. The movement should not require any real input. If it feels notchy or it wants to stay in the centre it could be your headstock bearings are shot. Are they the original OEM ball bearing head race or has someone installed an upgraded taper bearing set? If they have been replaced with a taper set some times the bottom seal may need shimming to allow the seal not to interfere with the bottom race when installed. I found this on my first set of headstock bearings and had to install a 1mm shim. Are the forks at the correct height? Some people lower the triple crown by 8-9mm which improves the turn in of the bike but refer to this as dropping the forks. The previous owner mat have adjusted the forks the wrong way which would affect the steering input.

Fit a Healtech Gipro Speedo healer and it will provide you the correct speedo input for any combination of sprockets https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/sh/