Marooncobra

I did when I uploaded the map but that must be 12 months ago. I will test the bike with the PC unplugged first and if that doesn’t work I will reconnect and reset the throttle on the computer. I have checked the parts fiche and note that Honda don’t sell the TPS as a part only. I have seen these go bad on vehicles, the tracks pit over time and give high resistance.

FJ12Ryder I will disconnect the power commander this weekend and try running at a constant speed again.

VFROZ I have got the O2 sensors removed with resistor plug ins. My Power Commander 3 USB is running a cosi map downloaded from here.

Grum, I have done the starter valve synch and realistically this only controls the idle to initial throttle butterflies opening. At the cruising speed, 100kmh, the valves would be open past the synch period. I have no FI codes. FPR is one of the items I am thinking as stated in original post.

G’day I am hoping the brains trust might be able to assist. I am currently experiencing a hesitation / slight loss of power after I sit at a constant speed on the highway. I don’t experience it during excelleration or town riding, just when cruising at the same constant speed. It is almost as if someone has twisted the throttle back by a few degrees and you can feel the engine drop off. Once you twist the throttle it picks up again and won’t show an issue again for another period of being at a constant speed. 2002 non abs 60,000 km injectors ultrasonic cleaned 4 months ago new stator and rectifier fitted 12 months ago no loss of instrument panel during the fault volt meter reads 14.4 volts at cruising speed power commander USB using the cosi map I am thinking one of the following components maybe playing up. fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel - unlikely as it accelerates from the issue with no problem fuel pressure regulator - no external leaks or vacuum leaks - probably requires a new one to be fitted to confirm as it is a sealed unit and cannot be adjusted throttle position sensor - might have dirty tracks on the sensor, again probably a swap with a new one as it is a sealed unit thoughts or suggestions

You need to remove the mirrors and the front fairing bolts, 3 each side. Once they are removed you need to remove the 2 plastic clips that hold the instrument panel to the side qtr panels. Once they are out you will be able to lift out the qtr panels with a lift and turn up motion as they are engaged by two tabs in the instrument cover. You will then be able to remove the instrument cover itself, two plastic tabs pushed into rubber grommets. Once removed you will need to remove the 2 plastic clips, 1 on both sides,where the inside of the front fairing attaches to the front exhaust area fairing. Once you have removed all that you will see two 10mm nuts just under the instrument cluster that need to be remove. After that the fairing is being held by the wrap around effect of the fairing where it attaches to the mirror mounting points. You will also need to disconnect the indicators cables. Stand at the front and lift the fairing of the mirror mounts and remove the fairing slowly towards you to allow you then to remove the 4 headlight connectors and the remote temp sensor. The fairing should then be free. good luck

Urbanengineer You can either put the cluster in the oven or use a heat gun to heat up the butyl rubber strip to allow the two half’s to seperate, same as a headlight. I looked around at LED boards in electronic shops and LED suppliers but couldn’t find anything that would really work so I managed to get hold of a second hand 5th gen LED rear light off eBay. I think if you buy a new one they are around $180.

TriumphTraitor I had already replaced the flasher unit for the LED bulbs fitted to the bike prior to this conversion but note that the 5th Gen Light had resistors soldered into the circuit boards for a correct flash rate. The boards came with prewired soldered cables which just plug into the OEM bulb holders to make the circuit. The pulsing brake light function is not part of the 5th Gen light as I already had a HealTech Brake Light Pro fitted.

Just thought I would post the modification I did with my 6th Gen Rear light cluster. Managed to get hold of a second hand LED Light cluster from a 5th Gen and stripped out the guts. To fit the indicators I Dremeled a slot in the indicator housing so the board could fit in the housing at the correct angle and then made up a plastic spigot to hold the board securely. I also used silicon sealant to fill any holes to stop moisture entering the unit. To fit the brake/light board I Dremeled a large area out of the top brake/tail light housing to allow the board to sit without fouling the lens. I used two long M3 bolts to hold the board securely to the housing. I then had to make up fillet pieces from aluminium to fill the large box area I had Dremeled away and secured them with silicon sealant. Finally I spray painted the brake/Tail light area satin black and stuck foam ''draft sealer'' between the brake and indicator areas to ensure there was no light infiltration from the brake light into the indicator lens area as I had Dremeled the plastic barrier away to fit the board.

I have had three LED bulbs break over the last 3000 km. The head of the bulb, that has all of the leds on, breaks away from the holder, and it always seems to be the stop/tail light. I therefore thought putting LED boards in would rectify this issue.

MaxSwell Many thanks for the info and the photo. It looks like the 5 th gen has two brake/tail lights in a row where as the 6th gen has two brake/tail lights above and below. I don’t think this would be a problem as I could rotate the circuit board during the modification.

Happy New Year to you all and safe riding for the 2019 season. I am trying to find an LED rear light cluster for my 2002 6th gen. I have been using LED bulbs up until now but after a few 1000 km I am finding that the LED head breaks away from the body of the fitting. I have searched the web and can only find 5th gen versions. I did manage to locate a 6th gen version through a German company Thurn, but after contacting them they have confirmed that they have stopped supplying this rear light as the standard of workmanship was poor and failure rates were high. I am considering purchasing a 5th gen LED rear cluster and gutting it and modifying my 6th gen rear light with the LED components. Has anyone tried this,and not having a 5th gen bike to see if it is possible, am I barking up the wrong tree? Your assistance is appreciated.

Sorry, only just seen your post. I removed the brake pedal from the bike and put the end that clamps onto the master cylinder in a vice. I then used a blow torch to heat up the pedal and used a Ring spanner. I just made sure I didn’t apply too much heat!!!

Hi what mirrors have you got fitted to that fine machine and did you need adaptors?

Does the noise go away when you pull the clutch in?