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Marooncobra

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About Marooncobra

  • Rank
    Factory Team Rider

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sydney Australia
  • In My Garage:
    6th Gen, 2002 VFR 800FI non ABS

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  1. Marooncobra

    Engine troubles

    I’ve got Staintune’s on mine and from standing at the rear of the bike the left hand exhaust is always warmer and has a higher velocity. I am not worried about is as from the bottom collector the exhaust gases come through one pipe and then split into the two exhaust cans, same as your Leo Vince system. If you stick your hand over the left hand exhaust can everything comes out of the right. WRT your idle and engine issues, have you got a volt meter installed? It could be your stator, rectifier/regulator or battery playing up especially if your fan was running.
  2. Marooncobra

    Fan switch fuse blowing

    Does the fuse blow immediately on inserting it into the fuse holder? If so I suggest you have a direct earth fault. If it only blows when the fan operates by the fan switch then the motor may have a fault. The power supply to the fan is live and it is the fan switch earthing, once the coolant gets hot enough to cause the switch to operate, that causes the fan to operate.
  3. Marooncobra

    A challenge to handle?

    Lift the front wheel and move the steering left to right. It should be smooth and no notchy feeling. The movement should not require any real input. If it feels notchy or it wants to stay in the centre it could be your headstock bearings are shot. Are they the original OEM ball bearing head race or has someone installed an upgraded taper bearing set? If they have been replaced with a taper set some times the bottom seal may need shimming to allow the seal not to interfere with the bottom race when installed. I found this on my first set of headstock bearings and had to install a 1mm shim. Are the forks at the correct height? Some people lower the triple crown by 8-9mm which improves the turn in of the bike but refer to this as dropping the forks. The previous owner mat have adjusted the forks the wrong way which would affect the steering input.
  4. Marooncobra

    how off is a stock speedo?

    Fit a Healtech Gipro Speedo healer and it will provide you the correct speedo input for any combination of sprockets https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/sh/
  5. Marooncobra

    VTEC 2002 choke problems

    It is pretty much the following: Lift fuel tank up remove vacuum pipe leading to flapper valve remove top of air box remove filter remove velocity stacks unclip all electrical sensors and vacuum hoses clipped to bottom and side of the air box and remove the box disconnect throttle cables from throttle bodies unclip the idle adjustment knob from right hand side (near clutch cover) unscrew the 4 clips holding the throttle bodies to the intake rubbers lift up throttle bodies moving the idle adjustment knob through the maze of pipes in the V remove both coolant hoses that feed the wax unit unscrew the wax unit fit new wax unit. Honda state not to touch screw painted white on end of it reassemble and if you have the vacuum gauges conduct a valve synch let us know how you get on
  6. Marooncobra

    VTEC 2002 choke problems

    Radu If you remove the air box and leave the fuel tank connected in the up position you will still be able to start the bike, as you would for a valve synch, and see if the wax unit is moving as the bike gets warm. WD40 will free the linkages up if they are gummed up and if you need to replace the wax unit you will need to remove the throttle bodies as it is screwed onto an area you can only get to from underneath. If you go down this route I would suggest, whilst you have the throttle bodies off, you replace the thermostat and the hoses in the V at the same time. Although it isn’t difficult it does put a lot of people off when they see the complexity of the throttle body.
  7. Whitemamba Forgot the y piece as I have replaced all hoses with Samco silicon and that is a one piece 2 x radiators to water pump hose From seeing the replacement part I would suggest that it was either: 1. Over tightened in the factory and stressed it, 2. The plastic nut had a fault in it during manufacture 3. Previous owner has overtightened it - Why? As it isn’t part of the sync process 4. Has become brittle through overheating I didnt think the stealership sold these, but it has saved you some cash. I suspect you may need to remove the TB to get access to replace that, in which case you may want to replace the thermostat as it will be exposed.
  8. There are only two plastic pieces within the coolant system that I am aware of, the overflow bottle that is clear/ white so probably not that and the tube that the radiator cap fits onto and then connects to the right hand radiator and outlet pipe from the thermostat. Can you remove that piece, three radiator hose clamps, and inspect it to see if it has started to break down.? All other components are either aluminium or rubber. The thermostat is steel with a copper wax unit so no plastic in there. The water pump has a metal impeller. WRT the starter valve, it looks like the plastic nut has been pushed out of the throttle body by the spring? Have you tried pushing it back in to see if it will click back into place? It may be that it was not fitted correctly at the factory but I would suspect this is not the case. I think if it will not click back into place, and also stay there during operation, you will have to get a second hand throttle body as there are no spares for this part.
  9. Marooncobra

    VTEC 2002 choke problems

    Being fuel injected there is no choke as such. It sounds like you wax unit is playing up or the linkages from it to the sync valves need lubricating. You will need to lift the tank and remove the air filter box to gain access to these items.
  10. Marooncobra

    It just needs a little love.

    Halfrider I am fairly well across these engines and was a qualified vehicle mechanic in my younger life. I have swapped out the one in my VFR and still have the old one in the garage. The new one had less Km on 16,000 vs 56,000. Still runs and has no issues. Was toying with idea of stripping down and seeing if it can be increased in bore/stroke but I think it would be stupid money. If you decide to go through replacing the head gaskets you may have to get the heads skimmed as well if they are warped. By the time you add up all the costs it may be cheaper to get a second hand unit unless you want to keep the same engine number.
  11. Marooncobra

    It just needs a little love.

    Halfrider If you need a hand with your motor I am in Maroubra. Send me a PM.
  12. Marooncobra

    Melb - Canberra and back

    Thank god I live in NSW otherwise I’d be broke!!!!!
  13. Marooncobra

    Gutted stock cat on 02 vfr. Don't do it

    So are you going to put the gutted headers back on and try again with the engine at the correct temp?
  14. Marooncobra

    Kind of a newbie

    Welcome, The clutch pack rattle is pretty normal for the Vfrr. When you strip down the clutch to replace the plates and springs inspect the baskets as they can wear and be badly grooved, which can also make the rattle worse. If worn badly, be aware they are expensive to replace! A slipper clutch might be an alternative but I think there is only one company that makes them and again they are expensive. Cheers
  15. Marooncobra

    6th gen clutch hard shifting

    I’ve just looked in the manual and the the friction ring I mentioned about being the right way is referred to as the friction spring, sorry. Air shouldn’t have got into the system unless the piston came out but if it is not operating fully due to air it may be why you are getting clunky changes.
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