Marooncobra

I don’t agree. The two on the right are taller than the two on the left. just my 2 cents worth

Grum Where are you managing to find this product in Oz or are you buying it online? cheers

I am happy to be part of the old fart section…57 years old and have a ‘02 VFR

Fritzer Wouldn’t it be great if, as well as having road sweepers, the council had magnetic sweepers that drove round and collected all of the nails, screws and other ferrous debris that is the curse of Mr Dunlop’s invention from our roads. Sorry for your woes. I would suggest that although the nail didn’t go all the way through, noting how the structure of the tyre wall is critical for cornering, I would replace the tyre for peace of mind. Last thing you want is it to let go as you are rounding a high speed corner. A shame, as from the photo, it looks a fairly new tyre. Be safe

Norva I fitted the R&G sliders which require you to cut the fairings but does come with a replacement coolant bottle that is shaped around the steel rod. I am not sure how your sliders are mounted but if they come with a new replacement rod that they screw onto then the easiest way of finding where to cut the fairings is to take the fairings off. Remove the OE rod from the frame/engine. Put one fairing back on, put a blob of grease on the end of the rod and push this rod through the side with the fairing that is still off the bike. Once the rod hits the fairing it will leave a grease mark where you can then use a Drexel to open it out. Obviously do the same for the other side.

4li3nvfr No baffles in the tank. It’s an unusual fault as the last time I replaced my pump the pick up is right at the bottom of the pump near the tank bottom and located inside, what I would call an aluminium scrubbing pad. There is also a very fine screen filter fitted on the inlet as well. There is a rubber hose that connects the main filter and this could have a hole in it. Apart from that the pump is securely fitted to the assembly so movement of the pickup would be strange. Does your fuel gauge indicate correctly as it could be that the float has been bent and although it says you are at 1/3 full it could be you are almost empty, hence fuel starvation?

I hav I have one on my 6 Gen and when I installed it I added additional 3M tape so there was no break in the tape so it sealed completely. No grit can get through.

Mohawk, Can you post some photos of you 4 x puller fans set up please? I assume you have 2 x fans on each rad? cheers

Stray The Davies Craig controller is very reliable and I have had it fitted for about 4 years. It can operate two 40amp circuits which are switched by relays and are part of the controller. You can set the temp to switch on the first relay from 35 - 110 degrees C and on activation the second relay energises after 10 secs. Once energised both circuits will not switch off until the temp has dropped by 5 degrees C from the original set point. The unit itself is self contained and well constructed. When I first installed it I did try and mount a second fan to the primary radiator and get that to start first with the fitted fan to come on 10 secs later. However, I found by fitting the second fan it reduced the natural flow of air across the primary radiator when riding at normal speeds and the temp actually increased by 3-4 degrees. Go figure!! My ideal would be to find a radiator matrix that would fit between the two side radiators so you would at least get some traditional forward facing cooling, but I would like to think the Honda gurus thought of that during the design and decided it wasn’t a good idea! Further details can be found here on the controller https://daviescraig.com.au/product/digital-thermatic-fan-switch-12v-24v-0444/digital-thermatic-fan-switch-12v-24v-0444

Stray, I have two points you may want to consider: 1. what is the amperage draw of the pump? If you are running this pump full load you will be loading your stator which would increase more drain on a fragile electric system and sucking the minimal bhp you state you could gain from fitting it. This would be even more drain on the system when the fan is operating as well. 2. why would operating the pump on full head cause issues for the thermostat? The stat is mechanically strong and operating on a closed head is not an issue for it. The main issue from failure that we see is the wax unit itself which is internal of the stat itself. I have never seen in either a car or bike failure of a stat from water pressure? I have a Davies Craig electric fan controller fitted to my bike and have it switch on at 97 degrees C and it then switches off at 92 degrees C. The thermostat pick up point to the controller is in the main radiator hose that comes from the stat to the primary radiator. I do seem to remember that someone on the site had fitted an electric water pump to their bike in the past but no further details on how it ran. I will be interested to see how this install goes so please show pics during the build and a report on the outcomes of cooling and electrical loading once complete.

An air scoop could help with air flow over the oil cooler but if you try and make the mouth of the scoop too wide it will impact the front wheel fender when the front suspension goes into max compression, especially if you have dropped the triple tree by 8-9 mm for better steering. I tried this when I fitted an RC51 oil cooler on my 6 Gen but found it bottomed out on the fender on hard braking. Would love to increase air flow over the cooler as it would increase cooling especially as the oil has a higher temp than the coolant.

Phye07 I had this happen when I last did a throttle body synch. Forgot to reconnect the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor. As well as the poor throttle response I also got a blinking F1 light. As DanoXYZ stated, remove and start again checking hoses are connected. You might even find the issue straight away so you don’t have to strip it all out.

HS, thank you for all of your efforts in keeping the site running and keeping it going. I hope 2021 will be a better year for us all.

Sorenlaf, Is your 6 Gen an ABS version? If not a lot of people have fitted them in the left hand fairing area where it meets the nose cone. I have been wanting to fit one as well but that space is taken up by my Davis Craig electronic fan controller for the cooling system. As you say there is little room near the headers due to heat but also due to the front suspension movement.

Jsteham I would suggest that your battery is either not holding its charge overnight or you have a sacrificial drain. You haven’t mentioned if you have changed the stator but I assume you have conducted the Drill and with a 14.03v charge rate at idle it doesn’t seem as if it is the culprit. The only other area that may be worth looking into is the starter switch and relay. If you are hitting the start button and it only cranks twice and then the dash goes blank and you then try again and it starts with no issues it may be high resistance across the switch/relay or connectors. by the way I have the same set up as you - roadster cycle R/R, direct feed to battery and 4 x 35 w Hid lights and have no issues. let us know how you get on