EX-XX

If I chuck the spare engine in, that may well be something I do with the original one, over some time...

It's a good question. Primarily, as it's a shitload easier to do refurb work with the engine out of the bike. Pick a stack of things to "refurb", purchase them (already started that process). Chuck the engine to be refurbed on a bench, and go to town (so to speak). Meanwhile, the original - working - engine is sitting in the intact bike, able to be ridden around, until the time comes to strip the old one out and replace. That at least was/is the theory.

Lance, given the deadline for deposits on the first run is the 18th, can you please keep an eye out for the cheque I sent you. I also sent through tracking details via PM. Once the cheque is received, we'll need to discuss shipment options, as we are moving out of our place at the end of March, so if shipping is a 6-week proposition, I may have to provide an alternate address for shipment. On the passivation side of things, I might have to wear the PayPal ripoff (on exchange rate) to have that done.

As a bare engine, he simply put a compression tester into each spark plug hole and turned the engine over on the starter. He did "have a look" in the cylinders, and noted they looked fine. He also noted some carbon build up (around valve seats and what not) which could be preventing effective sealing on the compression stroke...which goes to your point about things "being stuck and not sealing". It's one of those things... Do I take a punt on putting all the refurb "kit" on the "new" engine, or do I just replace all of the relevant bits and pieces on the existing engine with ~136,000kms on it (~85,000 miles). On the other hand...I have had some thoughts about doing a "HighSideNZ-style" 825cc rebuild...

As some will know, I bought a spare engine, ostensibly from a 2000-model bike, with the idea of doing a 20-year refurb on it later this year (have coolant hoses, thermostat, O-rings etc. for it already). Anyway, the engine supposedly had ~67,000kms on it, but has sat around for probably a couple of years. Last Friday, I took the bare engine to a local, well-respected motorbike mechanic to have it compression tested. He asked how long it had sat for, and I told him probably around a couple of years. He mentioned that it was likely to have compression readings "all over the place", as it had sat for so long...And it did. The readings ran from a low of 65PSI, through to ~115PSI. He told me that they would likely return to consistent readings once started and run for a bit. Question: What do you people reckon? Will they likely "normalise", or do I have a potentially dud engine?

What's the go with retaining the VTEC solenoid? To "fool" the existing ECU into believing it's still "driving" a 6th-Gen engine?

Bugger. Wishful thinking on my part, perhaps...

So...how'd the dyno run go (was going to be done on Tuesday, IIRC?) Inquiring minds and all that... 😉

TBH, didn't think they would. Am kicking myself, as I threw out an old BB FPR, which I could have quickly and easily compared to the one from the Y2K VFR throttle body. Even looking at the two different Partzilla diagrams (for BB and VFR), I figured it was a non-starter. Shame...

@MooseMoose I enjoyed reading through that. Angry octopus LOL 😂 I'm up for a fairly major refurb on my '99 later this year (although I'm also swaping in a lower km engine at the same time, hence "major" refurb.) In short, I'll be bolting in a Y2K engine, with '99 throttle bodies, and doing the following: 1) All coolant hoses/o-rings/thermostat replaced. I already have this kit (AS3 silicon hoses/clamps, and new OEM thermostat/o-rings). 2) All throttle body hoses replaced in silicon - possibly with the exception of the two "elbowed" hoses. Between the '99 and Y2K throttle bodies I have, I suspect I'll be able to source two still-pliable hoses... 3) I've previously thrown MAP sensor codes, travelling from Canberra (640M elevation), to the coast (0M elevation), so may need to replace that at the same time. 4) While I'm there, I may as well do the FPR as well, which leads me to the question I have...Will a Blackbird FPR bolt into the VFR throttle body assembly? I ask not because the BB FPR supposedly operates at higher pressure, but because they are cheaper... Happy to grab the VFR one, but if I can save a few bucks along the refurb path, I'm always happy to... Edit: And can someone tell me why the VFR MAP sensor is listed at ~3 times the price of the Blackbird one? (Or if the Blackbird one will fit the VFR wiring harness 😉 )

My bike is already de-linked. Just using the OEM rear caliper (with an SP2 front-end on it, including brakes). I'll be doing a major refurb on the bike later this year, and am already gathering parts for it. As part of that, I simply want to grab a compatible, bolt-in caliper, "go to town" on the thing, clean, paint and put aside, so that when I do the rest, it can simply be bolted up. It sounds like you're saying the 6th Gen is a bolt-in proposition, which is what I was after.

I'm looking to grab a spare rear caliper and refurb it, while the original is still on the bike. Can't find a resonably-priced 5th Gen one to save myself, but 6th gen ones are plentiful. Are the 6th gen ones a simple bolt-on proposition for 5th gens?

Cheers mate. Happy to leave (the clutch) as is. Only concern is making sure that I have all the rights bits and pieces to bolt the later engine straight in and go. From what you're saying, it sounds like I can order the Y2K-specific clutch plates/springs, chuck those in, and the rest of the clutch system on the '99 will work with it. Happy with that!

Hmmm... I've posted a similar question on the "other" forum, but I'll ask it here also. I have a '99 bike, in which I plan to install a 2000-model engine (as it has half the kms) after "refurbing it"). Questions: If I replace the Y2K clutch bits and pieces with the appropriate Y2K parts, is that going to work in the '99 bike? I assume the mechanics are identical (hydraulics/pushrod etc.), but the thing about the change in Master cylinder has me wondering. If it's all about lighter feel at the lever, but has no effect on the inner workings of the clutch, no issue, If not...? And yes, I'll be refurbing the '99 throttle bodies (hoses/injectors) and installing those on the Y2K engine. Are there any other gotchas I should be aware of in doing this swap (different sensor locations/part numbers, major differences in wiring looms between the 2 engines etc.)??? Or am I over-thinking it?