Marooncobra

Grum Where are you managing to find this product in Oz or are you buying it online? cheers

Norva I fitted the R&G sliders which require you to cut the fairings but does come with a replacement coolant bottle that is shaped around the steel rod. I am not sure how your sliders are mounted but if they come with a new replacement rod that they screw onto then the easiest way of finding where to cut the fairings is to take the fairings off. Remove the OE rod from the frame/engine. Put one fairing back on, put a blob of grease on the end of the rod and push this rod through the side with the fairing that is still off the bike. Once the rod hits the fairing it will leave a grease mark where you can then use a Drexel to open it out. Obviously do the same for the other side.

Sorenlaf, Is your 6 Gen an ABS version? If not a lot of people have fitted them in the left hand fairing area where it meets the nose cone. I have been wanting to fit one as well but that space is taken up by my Davis Craig electronic fan controller for the cooling system. As you say there is little room near the headers due to heat but also due to the front suspension movement.

Jelorian That pipe connects to either the vent pipe or the overflow pipe from the fuel tank. For some reason Honda didn’t use a continuous pipe to the tank and used that connector on one of them, I can’t remember which one. The other pipe, vent or overflow, has a connector that is at a 45degree angle.

Always interested but just cannot afford the cost to ship to Australia. As my father always said ‘don’t worry about the length it’s the width that matters!!’

You remove the rear caliper and mount in the upright position to assist in bleeding the air out as all of the pipe work is higher than the bleed nipples and aids the removal of air. I actually cable tie the caliper to the rear grab handles to get it to its highest point.

Veefer800Canuck What SPAL fan model number did you use and does it cover the same area as the oem fan? I tried to fit a SPAL fan on the right hand radiator but struggled to get it to fit due to the thickness of the fan motor. I can see from the photo that you have made an alumium frame to mount it? Nice work.

How often do you indicate and brake? I would suggest that these circuits hardly reduce the loading of the R/R as most of the time you are riding with none of these circuits energised. Fit a Shindengen SH847 Series R/R and be done with it, available from www.roadstercycle.com I fitted this and have a constant 14.2 v supply through all revs.

Greg any updates? My GSXR mirrors are feeling lonely on the shelf!!!

Wgret Any news on the mirror bases?

Greg if you can't find a shallow head bolt a mushroom head bolt will probably do it. Traditionally they are hardened steel and have a long shank and are only threaded on the initial part of the shank. May require a further thread to be cut into it. Could also be difficult to drill but would provide a good anchor for the assembly.

Greg I checked the mirrors tonight and note the bottom of the arm is quite shallow which means we will have to have a bolt with a shallow head. I don't know how much space is under the mounts you are going to get made to identify if there would be sufficient space to drill the bolt at angle and I can't find your 3D diagrams in the thread? If the mounts are going to be slightly bigger to allow the CNC machine hold the piece I would suggest that there would be enough depth to allow the bolt to be drilled.

Greg I need to look at the mirrors again to see the issue. I have only provided my last response from your photos and my old memory!! I am now at work but will look in the garage tonight when i get home. Gives me an excuse not to be sit in front of the one eyed monster in the corner and vegetate!!!

Greg I think the bumps will be required, even if slightly rounded, as this will prevent the mirrors from folding when under speed. The friction of the bevelled washers only may not be enough and tightening the bolt to its max to prevent this may cause cracking of the mirror arm. With regard to the bolt we only need drill a 2-3 mm hole through the centre of the bolt to get the wire through the assembly. This will not weaken the bolt to the point of stress. In fact in my early engineering days I seem to remember that a tube has more strength than a rod? Marooncobra

Greg, Any update on the mounts? Just broke a mirror lane splitting. Van driver closed the gap when he watched me come up the inside!! Cheers

Greg I am still in but if more drop out I will need to review the final price, if the CNC shop will still proceed with low numbers. Cheers

Greg I still want a set and I am happy for paying up front so you are not out of pocket via PayPal. If you can source the bolts and drill that would be good, but if too difficult or the majority decide to go without bolts I can source from here in sunny down under Again, outstanding work on seeing this through. Regards

Greg I would be happy to pay up to $150 for a set. Hopefully once you get a good set of CAD drawings, a check on costs in other parts of the world could drop the price. Let me know when you have the CAD files sorted as I could see if there are any firms in Sydney that can do the work and provide a quote. Regards Jim

Once again, many thanks for continuing to keep these mounts progressing to fruition. I look forward to when I can pay for them and get them fitted to my bike. Regards

Gents, Once again many thanks for all your efforts in getting these mounts produced. If I was local to you I would be bringing round a six pack and blowing the froth off a few!

I will still take a set

4) Marooncobra 6 Gen

Wgregt, No issues mate. Thanks for your determination in seeing this through and ensuring the final product will be fit for purpose.