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flya750

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flya750 last won the day on November 23

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About flya750

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    Privateer

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  • Location
    Midwest
  • In My Garage:
    2015 VFR800F Delxue
    1991 VFR750F

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  1. When I did mine, it was daunting because I didn't know what to take off? But now that I've done it once, I can tell you... dissemble the entire rear section... take lots of pics and videos. You'll find out that Honda did a lot of smart things.. I think the biggest pain was making sure YOU NEVER drop a bolt!!! AND VERY IMPORTANT.. .inside the rear swing arm you'll see a square hole about 2" x 2" YOU HAVE TO TAPE that hole up so anything you do drop doesn't go inside. Ask me how I know?LOL!! Fortunately, I had a flexible magnet with a light and the bolt was magneti
  2. Bottom line, the SS lines will be an improvement.
  3. Okay... I remember a reason... I remember now that my stock 8G rear brakes SUCKED, but now with the SS rear brake line, the rear brakes are night and day difference. I did the SS brake lines because I installed the VFRD header, but so happy I have SS brake lines now..
  4. The rear is not that difficult.....If you ever want the VFRD Header, going with the SS lines will solve some heat problems. That's about all I can add.... if you've bought the SS lines, I see NO reason not to do the job correct. When it comes to my 8G, nothing is half assed...
  5. There are less expensive ones, but I went with this one. Hooks up to my air compressor. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OM751EC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  6. Let me know if you have anymore questions. This is NOT a dealership job. You will need the proper tools....
  7. You'll also need to get a power bleeder. There is NO WAY to bleed the brakes properly without a power bleeder...FYI...
  8. It's important to get proper access so when you connect up to the hard lines, you don't strip the threads...If you damage the factory hard line connections, you'll be in a world of hurt. Just remember to put bolts back in original holes, take lots of pictures. The rear assembly is not that complicated... just 3 or 4 pieces..??
  9. You have to remove the entire rear tail assembly.. It's not that bad of a job. You'll also need to remove the radiator overflow tank. This will get you all the access to replace the rear brake lines. Also removing the rear wheel will give you good access to the rear wheel line too. Of course, you'll need to remove the rear master cylinder too.
  10. The thing I don't like about that motorcycle stand you have is... for this header job, you'll need access to the rear left port and that is accessible from the left side, which your stand inhibits access??? The reason I went with the pit bull.. I had full access to all the bike all the time.
  11. Well.. then.. definitely not something for you. I hope you've done something with the stock seat, because I don't see how anyone can ride that many miles on an 8G stock seat without massive discomfort...
  12. The power is so worth it though....Initially, I didn't want to do anything to jeopardize the amazing fuel economy the Japanese engineers whipped up in the 8G, but after have the performance mods now for one summer, the fuel economy is not a concern anymore.
  13. Not good...LOL! Especially when you're on the freeway doing 85+ 😉 It drinks the fuel... Before the mod I could easily go 200+ miles on a tank full of fuel and that was really cool, but the 8G was just a bit of a dog from 90-120....after the mods, not anymore... I've still have yet to do a mileage check. I just don't trust the fuel economy readings from the dash gauge. According to the dash gauage, it reads that my mileage average hasn't changed much? But that can't be real? Of course, If you ride mild, it doesn't seem to be too bad, but when you get on it hard a lot, y
  14. You lose about 15 lbs when you remove all the emissions stuff and with the cat removed. I also removed the ugly ass center stand and got Pit Bull stands for maintenance.
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