exwifeschewtoy

No.....its real close but after a week of riding I took it apart and checked and it is all good. The composite material is very easy to pull the drill bit the direction that it needs to go without hurting the outer rim of the bolt holes. One thing I did was first put a bigger hole in the same spot.....that was an error. It slightly weakened the outer rim. I should have matched the drill bit to the existing hole and then pulled both holes inward on each side. No biggie it is still in one piece and doing fine. I like it this way instead of on the bars since my phone stays put and doesn't swing with the bars, or rotate with the stem. thanks Joel.

I thought I would share my phone mount with you guys. Here is the link for what you need https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006PK661Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It is made of composite so you need to carefully drill out the holes towards each other with a drill bit. Take your time and it will come out fine. Then you mount it on your tank bolts. The best part of it is that it stays stationary because it is not mounted to your steering arm like with a stem mount. Here is the rest of the stuff you will need. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0074WMQLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013FFNXOG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thanks Joel I will take a pic of what it looks like on the bike.

I would like to do a custom dash. I would like it to have: 1. RPM gauge - about half the size of stock. 2. water temp. 3. Speedometer if possible or a gps that has a large speedo option on the screen. 4. Monitor to use for gps or rear view camera. 5. Don't need voltage as I already have one in the black area on the left side. I also added an idiot light to tell me when the charging system is weak or running fine. It is easier to see than the voltage meter so I like it......If it is green I am above 13.2, if below that yellow, below 12 I think yellow blinks and below 11.2 then red blinks I think....directions are in the garage. I think all of the above are doable but it is the odometer that I think will give me some trouble. I have seen some of the crafty stuff you guys do so I am guessing someone has already done this. Some guy in Philly is doing custom dash's but I would rather do it myself. not the best dash to try and modify but it looks doable with patience and a lot of time to get the front plated just right. I would have to make a nice face plate first and then hold it up to the stock one and see what it would look like. I would need to leave a lip on the stock one all the way around so that I had some thing to attach the face plate too. May be too flimsy once cut out. It may be better to wait until one is for sale on ebay and modify it. I am leaning towards doing that if someone else hasn't done it and can send specs and or pictures of what theirs looks like. Thanks Joel I would either do it in MDF and put a hard textured paint over it or find some hard resin and pour a mold.

I can get a 2006 VFR with about 2000 in addons more than my VFR plus a 2006 vs my 2005. It has a few thousand more miles though....here is the add. It's equipped with:Convertibars with Vibration Killer bar endsTwo Brothers exhaustPower CommanderHEL stainless front brake lines and clutch lineMichelin Pilot Power3 tires with less than 100 miles on themZero Gravity touring windscreenCramp Buster "cruise control"High output headlightsHonda factory hard cases with internal bagsWired in trickle chargerFabric cover Mine is mint, but stock. I want to get an exhaust and PCV and the convertibars are a plus as well as the steel brake, clutch lines. I love the bags too for trips. All in all this is $2500 retail more than mine for the addons. I told him I wouldn't come look at it if he didn't agree to go to 4K on the price. He jumped at that price. VFR's are a hard sell and don't hold their value at all. Any reason for this? I can probably get $3500 for mine which is a loss, considering I put at least 500 into it and bought it for 3300. thanks Joel I don't want to sink 2k plus into a bike that won't go up in value.

correct the new stuff is red and available at Walmart, old is green. I read somewhere not to mix them so I wanted to flush the shit out of it so I wouldn't have any issues. thanks Joel. Also I don't clunk anymore. I found that if I give it some throttle right before I start to shift it makes no clunk. Even if I am going slow, all i gotta do is accelerate for a half second (little more than a blip of the throttle), and no sound.....weird huh?

I won't worry about it then...... I just drained the antifreeze and couldn't find the engine case drain, so I unhooked the radiator hose to the water pump and drained it that way. Then I slid the hose back on the water pump. I filled it with distilled water and drained it over and over again. Running it for a couple of minutes each time. I did this until I couldn't see any hint of green color coming out. Then I refilled with 40% Peak anti-freeze / 60% distilled water. The peak anti-freeze said it was free of phosphate silicate boron so was this an ok flush and fill? thanks Joel I will recheck the level after a couple of short rides and then put the plastics back on and call it good.

I want to order a 10 pack off ebay but don't know what size to order............the plug is a 17mm, but what size is the washer. I know I can use aluminum or copper. thanks Joel

Well all I know is that when the flapper is disconnected, the bike is noticeably tamer at low end. I have hooked it up and then disconnected it several times. I did not read about it having that affect with other people until I had come to the conclusion myself. I actually liked the riding better with it unhooked as I was able to ride in parking lots without looking like I was on a bucking horse. Its not that I couldn't ride slow and cautions, it just took much more throttle concentration. Call it what you want, but I call it tamer with it disconnected. Now that I went up a tooth, I figured I could hook it back up again and it would not be as severe, and it wasn't. I still have a surplus of power but can ride in a lower gear than I was more often....less shifting up and down between lights is a more comfortable ride to me. I am not trying to sell anyone this. I am just reporting my findings in case someone else is bothered by a few of the things I am claiming that it fixed. To me this is a touring bike that looks sporty. If I wanted a bike that stretched my arms when I jumped on it, I would have bought a cbr1000rr. It was only a $20 dollar risk for the sprocket, and you know it doesn't take more than 20 minutes to change. I like it and it is staying this way. Joel Surely you have heard time and time again that others claim exactly what I am claiming the flapper does. I have read several posts just in the last month alone. Like this one - "My opinion on the flapper mod has always been that it only achieves loses and no positives". quote by VFROZ thanks Joel

yeah, I read somewhere that the odometer is accurate but the speedo isn't. thanks Joel

I was getting about 40mpg average.....just dd the change so I will see what a few tanks does. It is likely to stay the same as I am in a lesser gear to avoid changing up and down to 3rd or 4th. I am now mostly 2 and 3rd. thanks Joel yes I weigh 225 pounds so I squeeze the tank with my legs regularly to take the weight off my arms. I have seen no negatives from changing the sprocket. Didn't think 6.3% change would do much but it is very noticeable. thanks Joel

I love the VFR.....but it had some things about it that I didn't like. The gears are too short. It bucks at low speeds without precise throttle control, and engine braking is a bit extreme. Also, the speedo is off by at least 10%. I opted to change my front sprocket to a 17t. I put on a new 110 link x-ring chain and rear 43t sprocket. I was able to hook back up the flapper which gave me back the low and mid grunt I was missing. It brought the speedo close enough to actual speed. It makes the gears long enough to cut down shifting in town in half. I am able to stay in lower gears instead of shifting to a higher one. Less shifts up also means less shifts down when coming to a light.....also nice. got rid of a noticeable amount of bucking. engine braking is not annoying anymore. did not notice the loss in acceleration at all. In fact this thing still hauls ass at will. I realize that this is going to irritate some, much like oil and air filter talk, but I just wanted to share my experience. thanks Joel Bike is totally fixed and love the 82lb clutch springs.....

Nah, I'm thinking it was just in my head. I was driving in a higher gear and too slow and it was just the thing bucking on me. I rode about 40 miles today over a 2 hour period.....almost all of it town driving. The only noise that seems to be new is when I pull in the clutch the bike is dead silent....except for the engine sound. When I release the clutch I hear a faint noise, but that is the clutch engaging and normal, right? I am talking. Only noticeable if you are really listening for it. I had three issues before that are all resolved. 1. Clutch inner disc was swapped for outer disc......got mixed up when stacking them. Should have know that the thinner one has to go first cause it rides above the spring seat and friction disc. Once I put in the correct order.....bingo fixed. I love the 82lb springs too. I can launch hard from a light now. 2. The shorter of the long bolts was in the wrong spot and couldn't thread more than one set of threads and popped off when being tightened. I took it all apart with better lighting and cleaned everything to a nice shine, and then slowly put it all back together again. Totally resolved. I did opt for a 17t front sprocket and man that thing has made this bike so much better. I know it is the opposite of what most guys do but the gears are so short that it has cut down my shifting in almost half and it decreased the "buck" from letting off the throttle and decreased a bit of engine braking. I did not notice any decrease in acceleration. Fit with the 110 chain fine too....plenty of slack left over. 3. I did not use the Pro-motion chain tool correctly when I flared the tips of the master link....which is why I had so much trouble. I was not using the flaring tip. I went in a flared them correctly and now they are the exact same measurement as the stock tips per my caliper readings. I will redo the chain next week when the new master link comes that I ordered just for piece of mind. I also measured the width of the chain where my master link is and compared it to the other links and I am .1mm off....I can live with that just fine too. I appreciate your help and the others that responded. I still have never needed to take this bike in to have it worked on. I credit this to this site and you guys offering your experience. I value you guys more than the manual which I find weak a lot of time. thanks Joel

Never hear of over-flow drains.....gonna have to check the manual on that one. Thanks for the tip. Joel

No there is no way to be sure, but after you just install a clutch for the first time, it is hard to think it is coming from somebody else's ride. 😎

That's what I thought but it came right into my helmet and smelled like burning tires. What do you care if I like my head in my crotch? thanks Joel.