RedMist

Hi interceptor, try this website to see if it provides accurate mapping for your area regarding ethanol-free filling stations. That's how I originally found the one in my area, many years ago now. All the powersports guys take their equipment there. Quite often when I'm filling up, there's always a boat, or a couple motorcyclists, or a guy filling gas cans. They know the secret to better mileage is to skip the corn juice and use the good stuff 🙂 LINK -- https://www.pure-gas.org/

Only 2800 Miles?! She's not even broken in yet! Nice find!

Haha, you performed a PAIR valve mod and fixed your annoying sound all in go. Great success 😄

I was looking at some feedback from various sources, and I stumbled across this device: https://thedigisync.com/ While it seems to be a bit expensive for a one-time adjustment, it may be handy to have for future needs. What do you think? I know on the VFR, there is one valve that is set in place as a reference.... I think the second from left is the reference valve (the one that doesn't have a screw). I know that something like this would have been handy to have on my old V45 Sabre! That thing NEVER wanted to start and I was always terrified of digging in and synching FOUR CARBURETORS! BTW, thanks Grum for being one of the more helpful members on this great forum 🙂

Nah, I usually pick the lowest octane rating available since I figure it's not necessary to run 92 in my VFR. However, there is a chance since my Acura takes 92 that I may have filled up with supreme out of habit last time. I'll make sure to specify regular next time and see if it helps! Anyone who lives in the Seattle area can find a filling station in Issaquah that doesn't use Ethanol in their gas. It's the only fuel depot that I have found within 50 miles of my house that doesn't add Ethanol to their holding tanks. I always make it a point to use the gas in my car; and the point of riding a bike is to go the "long way around" 🙂 So it's my priority to shop for the good stuff: https://grangesupply.com/ I wish the corn juice wasn't as prevalent everywhere else, but it is what it is...

Hehe, if I wanted the honeymoon phase, I would have gotten an 8th gen (and spent at least $3500-4000 more than I spent on my '99). However, eventually if I get rid of my 5th gen, an 8th gen might be the way to go since I like the updates to the bodywork more than the 6th gen. How do you like the 8th gen vs. the 5th gen regarding performance, handling, etc? One thing I find hard to give up is the gear-driven cams that they got rid of for the 6th gen. Honda kept complicating the VFR as they increased the generation timeline... while they also increased the weight a bit 😞

It actually seems to do fine when "choked" (idle adjusted since the '99 doesn't have an actual "choke" like the 4th gens). A little warbly initially but maintains idle fine upon adjustment. However, regarding valves, would you recommend adjusting the starter valves first before going for the engine valvetrain?

Thanks everyone for the suggestions! I'll use the idle adjust "choke" and live with the quirkiness. Will certainly be testing and possibly replacing battery soon, too. It's been gross weather lately so it gave me time to do some maintenance items.

Hi GreginDenver, thanks for your reply. As mentioned, my bike has around 56k on the clock. I'm sure it's due for an engine valve adjustment, but honestly I'm probably not going to worry about it. There was a bit of ticking on idle but after I recently switched to Motul 300V Full Racing Synthetic, it seems to have quieted down the valve ticking almost completely. I have the PDF of the Honda Shop Manual and have already pulled off a few repairs of my own (pulled the clutch piston and speed sensor for cleaning as well as learned how to replace the plugs). The DID front sprocket and chain need replacing because I think some of the links are starting to skip or kink. How difficult a job is replacing the fuel filter / hoses? To your starter valve inquiry, I don't think the starter valves have been checked. I did not ask the guy who I bought the bike from. Overall this '99 is in good shape with only needing moderate maintenance updates. My next job is replacing the rear brake pads and change the fluid with a Mityvac. Gonna use some EBC's as I've heard good things.

Thanks for your question, Lorne. I use choke pretty much after the first crank-over. She's always reliable when she's warmed, but cold starts are a bit of a fuss. And yeah, she's a '99 so any bike this old is going to eventually need some TLC, hence my aforementioned repairs. You would just recommend setting the "choke" (read: idle adjustment lever" a bit when first starting it and then going about my business once it runs for a minute or so?

Hey Viffer Crew.... just a quick question! When my '99 VFR is cold (read: sitting in the garage overnight or sitting long enough to let the engine cool down completely later in the day), the bike is somewhat hard to start. Cranks up and fires but dies immediately on the first try; second try is a little extra power but then cuts out again; on about the third try, it seems to work okay but all my lights, etc. pulse / dim like voltage isn't sufficient. Lights, dash, etc. (all electrics) are a little weak at first, just like the initial RPM struggles. I move the "choke" lever up just a bit to increase the RPM's by 500 or so and after about 60 seconds everything seems to be okay. It idles fine with no weird cuts or sputters anywhere. After the bike has been running for a few mins if I turn it off, it starts right up again. Battery when turned off reads around 12.3-12.5 volts which seems good. When the VFR is running I get 14.2-14.5 pretty consistently even when revving to 5k and beyond. No voltage drops when testing at the terminals. I fixed an inconsistent voltage drop issue initially by installing and direct-wiring a new Rick's stator directly to a new Electrosport R/R I also purchased (I had these two on my last '98 and they proved reliable). I've also replaced the spark plugs with 4 new Denso U27FER9 plugs. The only thing I haven't tried is replacing the battery; but again the voltage doesn't raise any red flags. I also replaced my dirty air filter with a Hiflofiltro unit http://www.hiflofiltro.com/catalogue/filter/HFA1801 What could it be? Is it something I'll just have to live with? I've got about 56k on the clock and don't know the last time the valves were adjusted. My airbox and underlying components are squeaky clean.

Not sure of the MM of "thicc"-ness 😄 that they offer; however, the exact model in that picture is what I use whenever I'm on the job and doing projects around the house. They're hard to tear, unlike other weaker nitrile gloves I've used... even when digging and twisting out stubborn-rooted weeds in my driveway and sidewalk (those ones that dig down deep into the concrete and require force to extract the roots out of cracks and holes). Company website is here: http://sempermedusa.com/products/semperforce However, if you're looking for the ultimate in robust toughness, the crew at the municipal wastewater treatment plant office that I service uses this brand: https://www.amazon.com/gloveworks-orange-nitrile/s?k=gloveworks+orange+nitrile