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  1. Past hour
  2. Photo here. I believe this is a Goldwing fastener. It fits like a glove.
  3. Today
  4. He's right about having the motor in the correct position I'm afraid. With no tension on the chain the timing can alter as the cam sprocket jumps back if there is pressure on the cam lobes from the springs. That's why it's essential to have the lobes in the right position when you unload the tension. Easy mistake but costly.
  5. Are 3rd and 4th gen 2Bros systems the same? I know the Sebring on mine won't fit a 4th gen as it will hit the shock linkage etc, so will only bolt onto a 3rd gen
  6. They are known to come loose, so I wouldn't be surprised that the previous owner used loctite. Not knowing your degree of mechanical prowess: Did you remove the small bolt (17) for the sidestand switch first? Did you slacken the nut (18) before trying to undo the bolt (15) as well? Here's the IPC for the sidestand:
  7. Both YUASA and Deka are great batteries. Flip a coin?
  8. At first, I also think that this is not possible, then saw the black frame color, and 07 year sign, of course I also yahoo sites in Japan seen day of 25 anniversary edition version of the sixth generation of products
  9. Heat kills loctite. I'd drill a hole through the bolt, tickle it with a propane torch and then undo it with your favourite bolt extractor.
  10. Wow - that's not entirely comforting news. How badly did the grip drop off? (Or what sort of rider are you - a track rider, or was this noticable on just 'spirited' riding on public roads?
  11. I'm running T30s on my bike now and have had them for almost three years. These aren't the Evo version, but I'm not that impressed with them. I find the turn in to be slow and I just don't get a feeling of confidence. They are perfectly fine and are wearing well, but they don't seem to excel at anything. Previously on my 6th gen I was running the ContiRoadAttack 2 and they were fantastic. I was going to get these again but the T30s were half the price, so I went for them. Will switch back to Contis when I need new tires again.
  12. I need some big help. I removed and replaced my rear cam chain tensioner plunger a few months ago. Pretty straight forward work. I followed the shop manual and guidance from a member on this site. Pretty straight forward (or so I thought). When I tried to start the bike after reinstallation the motor would not start. I exhausted all trouble shooting I could think of and some members on this site suggested. I finally broke down and took it into the Honda dealer shop yesterday. They called me and said the timing was off upon reassembly and that I had now damaged the valves and the motor was going to require a complete valve replacement on the rear two cylinders!!!! Total estimate was upwards of $2800!!!! I can not imagine how the timing would become changed when replacing the plunger. The mechanic on the phone said something about the motor not being at the proper position during plunger removal and this would allow the motor to "roll back" and thus timing gets off. The shop manual does not say that the motor needs to be turned or timed to any specific setting (i.e. #1 tdc) before removal and installation. The only proof he really offered of this is that compression was low on the cylinders. I asked again how timing can become that off as it is a chain on teethed gears and it would have to jump completely to move like that. He didn't seem to have a solid answer for me. I am truly in disbelief this could or would happen. I am also wondering how he could say I have valve damage when he only had the bie for a few hours so I can't imagine he was able to visually inspect the valves? I really need help here. I want my bike running again but I also don't want to spend a lot of money on work I truly can't imagine is necessary. I don't think they are trying to take me but I am wondering if they are just looking at the work I did and the low compression and jumping to a solution (a very expensive one!). Any help/guidance/information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Matt
  13. I need some big help. I removed and replaced my rear cam chain tensioner plunger a few months ago. Pretty straight forward work. I followed the shop manual and guidance from a member on this site. Pretty straight forward (or so I thought). When I tried to start the bike after reinstallation the motor would not start. I exhausted all trouble shooting I could think of and some members on this site suggested. I finally broke down and took it into the Honda dealer shop yesterday. They called me and said the timing was off upon reassembly and that I had now damaged the valves and the motor was going to require a complete valve replacement on the rear two cylinders!!!! Total estimate was upwards of $2800!!!! I can not imagine how the timing would become changed when replacing the plunger. The mechanic on the phone said something about the motor not being at the proper position during plunger removal and this would allow the motor to "roll back" and thus timing gets off. The shop manual does not say that the motor needs to be turned or timed to any specific setting (i.e. #1 tdc) before removal and installation. The only proof he really offered of this is that compression was low on the cylinders. I asked again how timing can become that off as it is a chain on teethed gears and it would have to jump completely to move like that. He didn't seem to have a solid answer for me. I am truly in disbelief this could or would happen. I am also wondering how he could say I have valve damage when he only had the bie for a few hours so I can't imagine he was able to visually inspect the valves? I really need help here. I want my bike running again but I also don't want to spend a lot of money on work I truly can't imagine is necessary. I don't think they are trying to take me but I am wondering if they are just looking at the work I did and the low compression and jumping to a solution (a very expensive one!). Any help/guidance/information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Matt
  14. So after sitting in the garage for the past few months, even hooked up to a battery tender, the battery in my bike will no longer crank the motor without loosing enough voltage that the trip odometer and clock get reset. I checked it with my voltmeter and it's at 11.9 volts when the bike is on but the engine isn't running. I pulled the battery and noticed it is a Deka AGM battery. I believe the previous owner told me when I bought the bike that he changed the battery a few years ago, and I've owned the bike for over three years now. So I figure about six years on this battery which is great. The question is do I get the OEM Yausa battery, or pick up another one of these Deka batteries? They are both exactly the same price on Amazon. Thoughts?
  15. Was removing my sidestand for some exhaust work. The first bolt I went to remove was tight, like really tight. I thought this made sense since it's something supporting the weight of the whole bike. Out comes the breaker bar, twist, and snap :( On part of the threads there was some blue, so I know it was the blue Loctite. The previous owner definetly put it there, it didn't look like the threadlocker that a factory would use. So I have a broken bolt with blue Loctite on it. Bolt isn't flush, it's recessed into the hole. This hole goes all the way through, so theoretically you can keep tightening the screw and it will fall out the other side. If it didn't have the Loctite on it, I'd try to use a screw extractor, but I'm not sure here. Plus the bolt hole is aluminum so I don't want to strip anything. Any idea on what to do here? I can ride without a stand but I'd like to have one for working on it.
  16. Yes I will definitely contact him. I usually go to Nels at 2 Wheel Dynoworks in Redmond. He did wonders for my Aprilia, but that was EFI. Would be nice to go to someone who's about the bike! Also I'm in the middle of contemplating shortening my Two Bros can... I want more DB's and I like the look of a shorter can. Plus why spend $300 on a different one. Maybe I'm not seeing the downside at all, slip ons have such a minimal effect on Dyno numbers. Though everybody swears by one thing or another, back pressure, and air flow..
  17. May I suggest you drop in and see Mike Valsco at Brothers Power sport when all is tidy upped, he likes them V4s.
  18. Yes safety is key! I have full gear and a chest/back protector I wear under my jacket as well. I went through a field at 45 last year and walked away so I'm always sure to gear up for the worst! Well that's good facts there. I going to run an AM air filter to see if I can't lean out the AF mixture just a little bit. After flipping through a few threads I've decided to go with the Piper cross filter, and also close up the hole in the air box. I'll Dyno it after and post the results. Could potentially get a little carb work done as well, for it could have been jetted for the UNI filter that was in it when I got it. I'll check to see if the carbs are in sinc too
  19. Yup, same guy! His work is fantastic. I met up with RFVR and the fabricator as well and he knows his stuff! He now has a 4th Two Bros and a 5th gen factory system on his desk. Although my system is there for repair only, but it seemed that replicating it would be within his ability. I would love to contribute to all of your causes in getting a replica made, but no such business has been discussed with the man. This is something that would have to be discussed through RVFR. But for those with 5th gens and of interest, definitely contribute!! For if all goes well, maybe he can be tricked into doing the same for the 4th gen... 😉 Miles
  20. Can't take the bolt out, no torx head at home. But will snap a picture tomorrow.
  21. @indianagenius @hellindustries can you guys show me pictures of your installs? Art
  22. I suppose you could.
  23. Anyone interested in 5 gen or 6 gen headers prototyped based on TBR units and refined with dyno testing can check out the 'Help fund the VFR header' thread on vfrw. User RVFR on that site has started a gofundme.com account to help fund a prototype and testing. Some of us have kicked in between $10 and $50 on gofundme to further the cause. RVFR is geographically close to a very talented custom exhaust fabricator and they are working together on a VFR header system [the thread has photo examples of the fabricator's work]. It seems to be a well thought out project and is making progress. Sadly, 4 gen headers have not yet been discussed.
  24. Yesterday
  25. thanks for the help fellows. Only just realised there were replies. I found a pair with callipers, master cylinder and fender for $700aus delivered. My winter project is set. Can't wait to have better brakes and suspension.
  26. @wera803 what is the wire I see going up on your rack? Art
  27. You don't strictly need an OEM part. Any caphead or similar with either a spacer or collar of the right size will do just fine. Did the same on mine.
  28. I have a pair of these installed on my '99 VFR. My son has his own 5th Gen and was recently coveting my flush fit version. Seems like these were a Goldwing fastener. The flush fit version looks great but are definitely useless for a bungee strap application. Anyway, does anyone know the Honda part # for the flush fit version that replaces the Frankenstein bolts? Thanks, IG
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