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  1. Today
  2. Shoul I have continuity from the yellow wires coming from the RR (not from the stator) to ground? I only have continuity on on of them which seems odd to me - Have checked with pos and neg reversed on multimeter.
  3. This is my RR by the way http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR53.html
  4. I'm buying a battery before I take this further boys - will report back once it's in. Off to italy for a week though . . . . .
  5. Is this a CBX???
  6. BC to UK.... hmmmm... I may look for one over here LOL. As it is I am in no rush as I have other bikes. Just frustrated that something so highly lauded as the bees-Knees of reliability has let me down so soon. I'm sure like all my projects once I have fixed it I'll get many miles of enjoyment out of it. I kept an 20year old Suzuki running for 80-90,000 miles so I'm sure I can at least hit the 100,000 mile mark on this. more up dates later ( when I work out where all the plugs, pipes and doo-dads go on the air-box. )
  7. Red Loctite it is, then... Ciao,
  8. (Agree about the thead preview/spolier potential!) . . Well done--Crutchlow is finally showing what he can do on a factory Honda. Few other people can legitimately claim to have pushed Marquez into making a mistake! Phillip Island sure delivered some racing this year. (And some freaky weather, of course. Only the traditional bird strike was missing.) And to wrap up the Rossi/Lorenzo battle, with Jorge's unusual difficulties during the (dry) race leaving him in sixth, the point difference now stands at 24--meaning that if Rossi finishes ahead of Lorenzo in Malaysia, Jorge cannot take second from Rossi even if he wins the last race of the season. Which would leave the old GOAT second in MotoGP for the third year in a row. "First Loser", as they say, but not a bad streak for a member of the "senior team"! Ciao,
  9. It is probably in the bottom of the engine. Taking off the sump means taking off the headers and collector if you want to make sure. Don't think about trying to make a replacement. Get a secondhand head off Ebay, or another engine. The missing adjuster is probably the cause of the misfiring cylinder.
  10. I reckon "The Dutchy" will read this and advise soon :-) Alternatively drop him a pm...
  11. God of thunder... And Rock&Roll.... :-) Nice avater!
  12. As you have a 2000 VFR you should have black wire also. Just check the harness block connector for it. If its in the harness block connector and not on the regulator side then its been replaced at some time, like most, with an earlier model replacement, or maybe even a MOSFET style unit that has no need for the black wire. Its not critical but the later 2000+ regulator does at least try to manage itself. The red/green wires are your positive/negative. 2 each because 1 pair leads direct into the electrics and the other pair are supposed to lead to the battery but after reading all that above stuff about crappy VFR wiring, specifically poor Earthing, you'll get an understanding of the VFR Achilles heel. cheers
  13. :-)
  14. DID says "External lube every 300 miles to prevent rust and ensure performance" I gather "ensure performance" is HP related because there is no mention of lube to ensure longevity or arrest premature wear...
  15. What did you do? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
  16. I opened up the engine today and found something. I don't know whether to be relieved or worried. These are a pair of valves on the number 3 cylinder. Maybe you do not see it at first glance, but one of the rocker arm adjusters are missing. That piece with the thread and a nut around it is the adjuster. What this means is there's an explanation for the spark plug. I do not know if this is an intake or exhaust valve though. It must have rattled out over time, I doubt somebody took it out and forgot to put it back. I am trying to think of where it could be. There are a few pools of oil around that part of the engine. I am going to get a magnet on a stick and fish around in there to see if I can find it. Could it have fallen all the way into the oil pan and does this explain the spark plug? Hopefully I can find it. I could not find any sources for a replacement part. If I don't find it I will try to make a new one first(its basically a bolt with a nut right?) and call Honda if I fail. One thing I am glad about is, where ever it went, it did not jam the engine and make it explode.
  17. ^ yep yep yep it wiggles it way down to Rattlesnake Grade ;) great times can be had there. One really needs to go down then back up. It's a marvelous place
  18. "The Drill" I wrote this procedure a while ago -- check it out...... Sorry for your electrical troubles. Well, looks like you gotta do…. “The Drill.” Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. Your gonna have to fix that! Then---Go through this starting point quick list. You will need a multimeter too. Steps: - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone, Batterys Plus or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed. --GOOD BATTERY IS THE FIRST THING! - With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two. These are R/R quick checks--- --- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm. (It’s not unusual for the system to be in discharge or no charge at idle.) - Check stator - 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin stator side, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. (Engine off) - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin stator side to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Engine off, again connector is apart) - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings stator side connector and still apart. - Repeat hot if you dont find anything wrong. Sometimes the stator will be fine cold and be a problem hot. (If you find the probem cold, you dont have to redo this hot) This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart. (Some guys like this chart, my taste, I don’t care for it.) http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
  19. This is the box from my last D.I.D. chain with their recommended maintenance practice, replacement criteria and note on master link selection. I have never seen 80w-90 oil in a spray can, but maybe they do sell it.
  20. With this new layout of the forum, the first few lines of a post will show up under the thread topic header. At least when using the "expanded" mode setting, so even if the thread title has the spoiler alert, if the first few lines are the spoiler, then anybody browsing the forum may still see the spoiler, without clicking the actual thread topic! With that out of the way, looks like Crutchlow didn't need Dani's bike after all! Hayden seemed to be doing fine for a while, even topped the times in one of the FP's but then weather took her turn. He was battling it out with Miller and the others in that group and held his own for a while but he and Miller I believe touched and he ended up crashing and ended up outside the points. Still a good run for him IMO.
  21. A friend of mine has a used engine for sale which might be a faster and safer option. You may be able to find one lying around for cheap. Only thing is shipping... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. ..........................................................,..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................Simple mistakes have cost plenty of races. Always a shame when you crash out of a big lead (even though I'm not a Marquez fan), but one mistake is all it takes. Good thing the factory bike wasn't offered to Crutchlow, his result might not have been as good working with a new team and his own team would not have had their victory.
  23. Thanks guys, my user name has to do with my past life when I had a monster truck and yes you guessed it it was Frankenstein. I do work at a Honda dealer so I will pass on any and all info I can but I must admit Honda is just plain awful as far as telling us what's coming or not coming. My personal VFR is still in the crate I have been riding my demo and I will keep doing that until it's sold. I will be interested in doing the ECU reflash to get the speed limiter out of there etc but I am leaving the rest of the bike stock I think it's a work of art. Here is a pic of my first big bike lol, yes I am old. it's a 1977 CJ360T pretty much fully restored except for the exhaust I have to get rechromed and some work on my wheels. thanks
  24. Payin it forward---[emoji41] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. These issues have been well covered in the electrical forum: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/forum/7-electrical/ Offhand I would say to get the battery charged then take it to someone who can load test it. That's the definitive answer if it's still good. If not, replace - then see what your charging voltages look like. From what you posted previously, they look low. I would indeed check the stator output at idle and 5,000 rpm. One other thing to look at are grounds - follow the battery negative to the frame, remove and inspect. If that all checks out, go through the pinned posts in the electrical forum and you should get it sorted.
  26. Yesterday
  27. Think I'm going to do the same thing, just remove the caps, give them a few good flushes with kerosene, add new 10 wt oil to the required level,drop in new springs, seals aren't leaking so going to leave them as they are, I replaced slider bushes before on a bike with over 50k miles and I could tell no difference between the old and new bushings.
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