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  1. Past hour
  2. Thanks, Lee. Oddly enough, I have come to terms with the loss of the bike - even though it was PERFECT for me, it was just a machine when you get right down to it, and I have already replaced it with a BMW R 1200 RS. I mainly just feel violated that someone arrogated for himself the privilege of TAKING my VFR - MY VFR - for himself. This creep doesn't deserve it! He deserves PUNISHMENT! I appreciate everyone here who has commiserated with me on this, and thank you too. It helps.
  3. I'm going to ask, yes I can read, for all VFR models......., can you do this mod for the VF750? If so I would send two covers! Also down under in Australia....here's hoping.. Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk
  4. Today
  5. I was lucky to come across a mint condition Red 2001 with 12k miles. It only had two owners and just got serviced at the dealer. It has Heli Bars, Corbin Gumfighter,Zero Gravity and a Vance and Hines SR2 exhaust. My plan is to spend $2k to unleash all the factory "built-in" power and plus some well proven and reliable "add-on" power that will not drastically reduce the engine life. it took me about a month to find and buy this bike, another week to get it registered and tagged and another month to find the parts. The first thing I did was send the Corbin seat back to Corbin to get redone like new. (In the meantime I found a like new OEM seat for $80 on ebay) Here is a breakdown of how I am spending the $2k. (Everything is ordered and on the way) 1. $400- Corbin Seat 2. $150- ECU (Germany) 3. $ 20- OEM Air Box 4. $ 60- K & N Air Filter 5. $500- Staintune (Australia) 6. $350- SS Headers (UK) 7. $300-Power Commander 8. $ 20- O2 Eliminator 9. $120- HealTech Gear Red 10. $200- DynoTech Tune First I will modify the OEM air box by cutting away and removing the flapper assembly and install a 2nd Snorkel in its place. (Also unplug the pair valve) My theory is the snorkel is necessary, the flapper is not, so by adding a second snorkel it will add power without compromising the underlying purpose of the airbox design. Next steps: 1) Remove headers & exhaust 2) Install Black Widow headers and high level Staintune. 3) Remove ECU 4) Install Euro Spec ECU 5) Install gear indicator 6) Install Power Commamder 7) Load Fuel Map file Start bike.....
  6. I'd be happy too because chains are a pain but the answer is a maintenance free belt that will out last 3 chains... For the rest of the story click on the link...
  7. Hope you get it back in good shape. Fat chance I know.
  8. What didn't you like about your 1200.
  9. That looks pretty cool, i dig it
  10. OK-So I had to retire my trusty Shoes X9 and the Icon Alliance sought my eye. The price was right so I grabbed a Matt black. Helmet is "OK" as far as venting and what not but the visor drive me bonkers! I can flip it up maybe once twice but it will always pop out of one side. I have to sit down and reattach it and not lift it up at all. Anybody else run into this problem with this helmet?
  11. My vote is once charged to install the new battery. Fire it up and check the voltage across the battery. If in the 14v to 14.5v range just off idle and it's steady as rpm rises all should be good. If not, check the voltage right out of the r/r. If similar to the battery, replace r/r. If good, check wiring / connections between the r/r and the battery. Oxgard is great for treating connectors - reduces corrosion and is conductive. It can be found at most Ace/True Value stores or home centers.
  12. ^^ +1. I'm not sure from the post if it's about the gravel, trees, cows etc. or the VFR. Whether it's the Connie, FJ or Viffer, that stuff's still going to be out there. The Connie and FJ are fine long haul tools - gobs of power compared to the '98, but pack more heft. You might be surprised with Jamie's linear rate spring / revalve upgrade on the VFR. The bike is transformed in to a fine carving tool for the tight stuff. But as pointed out above, it's all about finding the right tool for the way you ride.
  13. Sent my payment, will take maybe a week or so for me to send, need to sort out storage while the cover is off, don't wanna leave it out in the rain where it is at the moment with no cover on, I'll update you once it's sent seeing as it'll be coming all the way from Australia.
  14. Sent my payment, will take maybe a week or so for me to send, need to sort out storage while the cover is off, don't wanna leave it out in the rain where it is at the moment with no cover on, I'll update you once it's sent seeing as it'll be coming all the way from Australia.
  15. The first VF500 with VTEC!
  16. Epyon, sounds somewhat off note to the original post. You seem to be looking for something different from the VFR. Track and road will definitely be different. And frankly, if you're doing a lot of gravel and such, not sure if even a FJR will suit. Your '98 is now 20 years old and the suspension, if original is very old and tired. That certainly won't help with the type of roads you are riding on. Apologies to you if there is a further thread you have shared that detail on. My best to you in seeking the best ride for YOU. :-) Dave
  17. Very lucky on finding the tappet. Is the valve stem and everything still there on that valve? It's amazing that it was even running and didn't just break the rocker arm or something. Are the threads on either side damaged?
  18. +1 what Terry said. No need to see marks, just make sure lobe is pointing away from rocker. I had a feeling it would be sitting right there in oil. Yay!
  19. As long as the lobe of the cam is pointing directly away from the follower, you should be able to adjust the clearance of the valves. Top dead centre would indeed be after the intake valves close, and before the exhausts open (intakes open on the down stroke then close, the piston rises up to TDC on the compression stroke, is driven back down on the power stroke, then the exhaust opens on the next upward stroke to allow exhaust gas to escape). 360 degrees of crank rotation after TDC, there might be some overlap between the exhausts fully closing and the intakes opening.
  20. I still think it's electrical - likely a high resistance switch that needs cleaning - start switch, kill switch, clean & check battery connections, etc. Check that stuff before you sell it too cheap. You don't have starter clutch symptoms. Cheers, Glenn
  21. If you guys see my VFR or the wheels for sale, PM me. Beer is on me if we catch the Bad Guys!
  22. I see in the ebay listing that the pin out box is sold. Did somebody in the group buy it?
  23. Yesterday
  24. Not to make an Mr2 thread, but used to own 93 Mr2, fun little cars, all gens. Congrats to the OP: new bike & good price!
  25. Tire hugger looks great Nelix! By the way is that your MR2 Spyder parked next to your VFR? I used to have an '03 - fun car!
  26. I got it! My dad brought me a miniature magnet on a stick from his tool box at work and I stuck it down in the first little pool of oil beside the valve springs. I had to rotate the engine to get the clearance between the rocker arm and the camshaft. I am surprised it fell down there in the first place, being such a tight fit. It looks like it has been in there for awhile, and you can see how far the bolt worked its way up the lock-nut. I've run into another problem with these valves though. The timing cover is stuck closed. I tried soaking it in WD-40, using a wrench and screwdriver combo, using a Toonie as a screwdriver, but it wont budge. This means I don't have an indicator for the piston position. My question is, is TDC on this engine after the exhaust valves close? As far as I understand the workings of an engine, it should be. Although when I try to fit a feeler gauge under the valve adjuster there is no room on either set of valves. The time between the exhaust valve closing and the intake opening also seems non-existent. Either somebody adjusted these valves wrong or I am missing something. Possibly the last guy also had a jammed timing window? After the intake closes and between the time before the exhaust opens, is the longest time both the valves stay closed. This is the only time when there is room under the adjusters, but it should not be TDC... right?
  27. Sorry to hear about your bike - hope they catch the scumbag(s) who stole it. I had my mountain bike stolen a couple years ago and fortunately for me the cops were able to track it down at a pawn shop about 15 miles away in a few days - the thief had pawned it within an hour of stealing it!
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