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Thanks, looks good. I just added one of these, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09F2YH4NJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title to use that power port on the dash and keep the phone powered in the tank bag, worked well on the last trip.

No, I didn't see a claim that gloves would work. I've never done the bar mount thing--it always seemed like it could rotate, just wasn't a clean solution in my mind. My 7th gen had a RAM ball attached into the steering stem, homemade by a former poster here on VFRD. When I bought the Multistrada I got a RAM ball with hole to insert a longer handlebar mount bolt, replacing the upper left bolt, photos below. Works great, rock solid: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/ram-mounts-handlebar-bolt-ball-with-hole-base?sku_id=869087 I should add that, just like in your car, CarPlay uses a lot of phone battery, and the phone gets hot. I hooked up my phone to a lithium travel battery and left it in my tank bag.

I'm going to give it a try too, they had a discount so was only $53. It doesn't look like you used the bar mount on the MS, what is it mounted to? They have conductive thread and stick-ons to make gloves conductive but they did claim it worked with gloves?

What a terrific journey! Thanks for sharing the story, photos, and links here! 🙂

Re: high idle, something's defo amiss there, servicing a clutch master has no connection to this issue. Terry's diagnosis is probly bang on the money, but there's defo a problem if it's idling that high, what exactly have you been doing apart from servicing clutch master? Personally, never had any issue bleeding clutch or brakes thru, it can take a bit of time if systems been drained for service parts to be fitted, treat yourself a decent vacuum bleeder, not the 💩 hand squeeze variety, a proper 3ltr bottle affair with a mini bike pump gizmo on top, these are great in getting a good amount of fluid from A-B, then let the vacuum go & do a few lever pump bleeds & it's job done. Once you've got clear fluid to slave cyl, lightly flick clutch lever while on full right lock, persevere & you'll see fair amount of air escape, plastic sheet over paintwork is a must, once Dot4 get on paint, it's Fakoolakad. If you're unsuccessful in getting a good firm lever, you're aware of the tie the lever back method overnight, ensure bike's on centre stand, works better with the bars on full right lock, it won't work as well on left lock, you'll likely still have some air trapped in piston bore at banjo end of master cyl, don't be tempted to pump lever, you'll just undo the tie back job, first job next morning is to flick lever while still on full right lock, this will help pull fluid back from banjo end of master cyl, along with any trapped air, keep flicking until you see no more air bubbles from return hole in base of master cyl, this should then generate a good firm lever with no air from master to slave, if you've still a 💩 lever, it's possible you have air ingress? Did you use new banjo crush washers? 30nm max on banjo bolt. Clutch hose may be degraded internally, might be worth draining the fluid & lightly blowing the hose thru with low pressure compressed air if you have access to a compressor, a battery powered tyre inflator will work too, or a bike track pump with a McGuyver job on pipe to pipe fit. Is bleed nipple in good order/not blocked/ no 💩 trapped under nipple? Potentially your slave cyl might be well past needing a service? piston might be corroded & scratched up bore surface, seal might be weeping & dragging air back in, have you pulled it & checked it? You'll never know until you check it. Personally I'd service the slave too while fluids out the system, eliminates failure points & future proofs the system. Slave repair kits aren't that pricey, stay away from cheapo kits, (Tourmax) are the best you can buy, these are OEM grade & made in Japan. Ensure piston & bore are squeaky clean/ free of scoring & rust marks, ideally measure bore with a vernier at several point to confirm it's still in spec, I've yet to see a clutch slave that worn out, seen a few badly scored from a rusty piston, if all's good, ideally hone the bore, some use 1000 grit wet n dry paper, personally, I use grey scotchbrite pads as used in automotive paint prep, gives a nice uniform fine matt honed surface, make a masking tape ball & secure it to 5mm drill bit, wrap a section of grey scotchbrite around & use to hone to slave cyl bore until you've a uniform matt finish with no rust staining, same principle applies to servicing clutch master & brake masters, all need honing to get best service life, while slave's out, Youtube vids if you're unsure what honing involves, don't forget to pull clutch pushrod, check its straight (roll it on a worktop) check for wear burrs, polish it & smear with rubber grease, ensure slave end oil seal gets some lube. Good luck! 👍

Thanks for the reply Terry, The bike idles smoothly and runs as normal on low revs and low speed, I can filter traffic at almost idle speed with no hesitation, the noise only comes when temp is up to normal and i raise throttle slightly. then the tick tok and surging starts. other than that, the bike behaves normally. I did notice that the flapper? valve thing on the air box has the hose blocked off. The flap, I believe is fully iopen all the time by the look of it.

Well this is interesting. Strangely enough I was only last night working out how my new shed (ground up build) needed to be laid out, and what I wanted to do in it. While sitting on the lounge, brainstorming with a glass of red wine, I came across this video. Bike wall storage at 5.25: SO MANY GREAT SHED IDEAS - OUR MATE BRENTONS SHED TOUR Not quite what you have in mind, but food for thought. This shed also has a sliding gantry with electric hoist, which is shown later in the video (used to get things up into the mezzanine areas).

Great first post!

Hey All, I rode across the country on my fifth gen (which just hit 100,000 miles) in the summer of 2024, it was a wild trip full of adventure, highlights included doing high speed runs on the Bonneville Salt Flats, some questionable off road riding, tons of amazing National Parks and technical winding roads, and capping it off with completion of my first Iron Butt Association challenges. I had an unplanned chain replacement and tire issues, but the bike itself was rock solid on the 10,000 mile journey, even at 26 years old with ~87k miles on it at the start - gotta love VFRs. I posted a full recap of the trip with photos/videos on ADVRider (link below) if you're interested in reading more about it: https://advrider.com/f/threads/balt...-back-on-a-1998-vfr800-may-june-2024.1785705/ I also put all my gopro videos from the trip in this youtube playlist: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9DvxzVIwTSC5lZQXAICLcjH6-gFGpymF&si=yMuUjMQZ-fQx25qh Here's a few pictures of the journey:

Update. Went for a 160 mile ride today. Limited access highway (101) and twisty roads (128). Pretty happy with the device so far: -The screen is great. Excellent definition, clarity, and absolutely no glare no matter where the sun was. (sometimes I couldn't see the Zumo at all if the sun was behind me) -I went for the 5" screen, not the 7" which I felt would be overkill, would block the bike's main screen, and be blocked by my tank bag. It's great. Small fonts, but my face is only about a foot from the screen when riding so all good. -I installed my Cardo comm (Q-Solo) on my helmet and quickly realized that yeah, I still don't want to listen to music while riding. Or take that call that popped up. But it worked. -All the usual CarPlay stuff worked fine: traffic, route planning, time to arrival, speed limits, etc. I did find that if you twist the throttle it takes the device a few seconds to catch up to reporting your actual speed. So, obviously, never twist the throttle while using this device. -The major flaw (today) was that my gloves don't work on the touch screen, but that's easily solved. Lot's of touch screen friendly gloves available.

I have heard odd noises when the solenoid that operates the vacuum flapper on the airbox moves. In neutral or clutch-in, the flapper should default open, but if your clutch switch is a little dirty it can oscillate on/off or open/closed; on my 5th gen that presented as more of a crackle or buzz. The solenoid is mounted to the right of the airbox so that may be the source of the noise. Not sure whether that would afect the idle however. For a surging idle I 'd suggest checking the starter valve synchronisation.

Hello everyone, I recently started a blog, and my latest post is about a common issue with the Honda VFR800 VTEC: generator and regulator problems. Last year, I bought my VFR800, and soon after, the generator, regulator, and even some cables burned out. I took it to a mechanic, and he somehow fixed it. However, this year, the generator and regulator failed again. This time, I decided to tackle the repair myself. I did a lot of research, and that experience led me to write this blog post for other new or existing owners. Please keep in mind that I'm not a professional motorcycle mechanic; I'm just a fellow rider. So, this blog post isn't an expert guide, but rather what I, as an amateur, was able to learn and piece together from my own experience and research. I've put a lot of effort into explaining the issues and potential solutions, hoping it might save someone else some headaches. Could you please take a look at the Google-translated version of my blog post? I'd really appreciate any feedback you might have. Specifically, I'm looking for your honest opinion on whether it's useful, and if you spot any major mistakes or misunderstandings I might have included. Here's the link to the Google-translated post: https://muhelymorzsak-webnode-hu.translate.goog/l/honda-vfr-800-vtec-generator-issues/ Thanks a lot for your help! Best regards, Lajos

Thanks.

6th gen VFR800 A3, yesterday when out on the bike, I hear a "Tick" Tock" noise from under the right fairing only when blipping throttle at lights and junctions really.. Almost like a relay kicking in and out and if I hold the throttle steady at standstill about 1300 revs the engine is surging up and down at the same time as the tick tock noise. The bike runs fine except for that.

Have you tried Givi? They're right here in Charlotte, NC. Also one in U.K. https://www.givi.co.uk/

This popped up on FBMP.. https://www.facebook.com/share/1C3rnAUSUN/

looking to purchase a replacement kit for vfr800 1998 -2001 Givi 257fz rack replacement fitting kit nuts bolts spacers, and idea pls, or one of the spacers that is on the side.

If you're after a Givi one, I think it's the 1132FZ.

That's a really good idea I may do that same thing and it'd also be a great way to keep people from stealing it as well especially if I hide it where the relay goes. Ill keep you posted I got it half way torn apart because im currently vinyl wrapping the ferrings and gas tank. Who knows when this bike last ran, all the fluids were nasty and the guy I got it from in Chicago said it was his dad's but his dad got dementia and he had to sell it before he left for the army.

Hey.... Jumping on said RC31. I'll check in later. But awesome progress!!

Now that it has ran you can plug the relay back in and feel if the pump clicks every now and then while it runs and starts to empty the bowls.

Most of my bikes have a toggle wired in parallel so I can prime the fuel system after winter storage AND get home when the Fuel Cut Relay fails in the middle of nowhere or a floating bridge. Both scenarios are true.

Ok. Very cool!!! Possibly. You can run the bike no problem with the relay bypassed. When the pump reaches a pressure it will stop and then pump when it senses it needs to when the line pressure drops. The relay is a 'safety feature" to keep the pump from running in the event of an accident where the key is on and the pump could continue to pump fuel into a bad situation. The Hawk GT I'm riding today just has a toggle in place of a relay in case I'm working on the fuel system with the key on.

20250708_185007.mp4

Holy crap it started thank you so much. Does that mean I have a bad wire running to that relay? Like I said the relay is new and I traced the black and blue wire then tested for resistance and it was like .2. So thatd mean the black wire has a bad spot somewhere correct?