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I don’t have HISS. Mine is a U.S. bike battery is in good state as well. I’ve also checked all relays (tested good), and the ignition is brand new. Bike is also in neutral haha

Freezing out there... Make you wonder why on eath anyone would go out skating in such temperatures eh?

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Hi, anyone selling a quickshifter or know where I could get one? I'm after a genuine Honda OEM Ive searched for ages and failed so far Many thanks

Thanks MBrane, appreciate the tips. I DID become a human rag! Unfortunately steel bolts don’t survive in the UK. Galvanised ones only last about 5 years and my bike is nearly 30. The constant damp and salt deteriorates everything, even garaged machines. There’s a brown puddle under mine as we speak. Byproduct of living on an island. You guys in the US are lucky. For example, check out a used VFR brake caliper on eBay US, and compare it to one on eBay UK. You’ll be shocked! You’re right about galvanic corrosion and thread galling. These are real things, so I use copper antiseize on virtually everything. The copper “sacrifices” itself in the reaction, leaving the bolts and the aluminium part unaffected. This is why when you pull out an old antiseized bolt, the copper will have turned black. Thanks Gaz. Curious why you say ACF50 is better than copper slip? Don’t the copper particles help with torquing down bolts? Surely the oil would get squished out under high pressure, whereas the copper powder stays put and helps the threads slide against each other better? Rolls Royce and Bombardier use antiseize on their fasteners. It’s really expensive silvery stuff, but concept is the same as copper. The metal particles stop threads from galling and also form a barrier to corrosion. Finally, the copper takes the corrosive hit if anything gets through, leaving the steel and aluminium unharmed. That’s my understanding anyway. Happy to be corrected. I use ACF50 all over the place, but antiseize for fasteners. Will give ACF50 a try on fasteners now… Just for the record, I’ve never had a failed fastener or struggled to remove a fastener that’s been antiseized. Ever. Not even brake parts or exhaust studs. I even use it on brake disc bolts (where most people use Loctite), and never had a bolt back out, gall or corrode. I am not advising anyone follows my lead here, just sharing my experience.

Gaz, I’ve never heard of such a thing but interested as I sometimes get missed shifts on track.

Ignition switch and HISS? Are you getting power downstream from this? There’s a YouTube on how to bypass it. If the pump isn’t priming I’d be looking at ignition and relays. Is your battery in a good state? Weak batteries create gremlins that are hard to diagnose. And make sure you’re in neutral (happened to me!).

Have a link?

You need at least a 1200lb spring for your weight on a VFR800

Pics???

A few things done Transalp orginal stickers are off, next to prepare for the new paint, repair some places, smooth out the tank dent and sand all ready for a respray Zephyr Cafe rear frame finally cut,next to weld on the loop I bought as fit the seat and..... I should really call it a Zephyr Scrambler not Cafe, as that's the goal

Hey guys, been having an issue with no spark no fuel. I’ve done gone through and replaced every harness and even the ecu is brand new. Still nothing. Won’t prime at all. I’ve checked the tip over sensor, and it tested good. I’ve got all of the relays doing what they should as well. If I run a direct jump from the stop/start relay to the fuel cut relay, I get power to the pump immediately. I’ve checked ohms between the two, and it’s good. Even through the tip over. Cpk sensor tested good as well. I’m just at a loss for what to test/check next. Any insight would be super helpful!

How can i do that? I have uploaded all pictures on imgur.

I finally had time to knock out two big mods, and both have helped more than I expected. First, I swapped in an F4 rear shock to replace the stock VFR shock. This was way easier than I thought. The shocks are only about 1/2 inch different in overall length, so no custom brackets were needed. I just drilled a couple holes in the battery box to zip-tie the reservoir, added about 1/2 inch of shims/washers at the top mount to get the height right, and that was it. Total install time was maybe 20 minutes. I did have the shock revalved and added a 950 spring through Aftershock since the original spring was tired. Cost was $40 for the shock on eBay and $300 for the rebuild, so $340 total for a shock with fresh internals and rebound and compression adjustment. I’m about 250 lbs geared up, so I really needed the stiffer spring. My sag went from 50mm down to 25mm, with preload still left. The bike feels much more planted now and holds lines in corners instead of feeling loose or vague. While I was in there, I also installed a catless header. I don’t notice a big sound change, but the front end feels like it lifts easier, so I think there’s some gain there. I’m still running Coyze’s map and it seems fine. I’ve heard there’s a newer “super map,” and once I gut the exhaust later, I’ll probably try Tinymind’s map to compare. Between all the parts I’ve removed and swapped, the bike is down about 20 lbs so far, which feels pretty good. Overall, really happy with how things are coming together.

Yep. You're doing it wrong. You'll need 2 litres of Dot 4 minimum. Bike on centre stand. Bars on left lock. Open front master cyl res, suck out old fluid, use fresh Dot4, never allow cyl to empty during bleeding. Using the front brake lever only, bleed as per normal, 1) Right front (UPPER) nipple. 2) Left front (UPPER) nipple. Pump up front brakes, refill front master cyl to max mark, & button it up. Open rear master cyl res, suck out old Dot4, use fresh Dot & never allow cyl to empty during bleeding. Using rear foot brake lever only. 3) Right front (LOWER) nipple. 4) Left front (LOWER) nipple. "2nd Master cyl bleed" Remove left front caliper, lift rear of caliper so 2nd master is rotated anticlockwise & is higher than front end, tie it up with string in this position, empty rear brake res & push pads fully into caliper, wedge something between pads. Seat off, access PCV bleed nipple at rear of fuel tank under rubber heat shield. Bleed 2nd master via PVC nipple using rear foot brake, pump thru 3 res fulls of Dot4. Refit left front caliper. Pump up both brake levers, front & rear should feel ok, if not repeat all the above. Rear wheel off, remove rear caliper, invert caliper so nipples are at the top, slot caliper back onto disc & secure with wire/string etc. Bleed centre nipple via rear foot brake lever, pump thru 3 res fulls of Dot4. Bleed upper nipple via foot brake lever, pump thru 3 res fulls of Dot4. Refit caliper, pump foot brake up, refill res to max line, pedal should feel solid, if not repeat rear caliper bleed sequence. Wheel back on, test ride.👍

Kanguro by name, but a 袋鼠 inside....

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Hello everyone, In July this year, I purchased a neglected 1998 Honda VFR 800. I wasn't planning to buy any motorcycle because I already had an SV 650, but my friend's neighbor had this one for sale and told me that I should come and see it because the offer was interesting. It turned out he was right. The offer was interesting. The motorcycle has been owned by one owner for 18 years, who can no longer ride a motorcycle due to back pain. Unfortunately, because of this, the motorcycle has not been used for the last 10 years. I managed to negotiate a good price and bought this motorcycle. The overall condition of the motorcycle is very good (especially considering its age). But due to how long it has been standing there is a lot to do here. This is my VFR 😄 Original exhaust will be repleaced with something good, but for now i have more important things to take care of. fairings off Take a look on brake fluid color xD There is so many things i had to do ASAP so i just started with good cleaning 😄 What a mess A lot better Side stand sensor wire was damaged, luckly it was easy repair due to oxidation i had to cut off small portion of wire and replace with new one good as new, Bike had some clutch related problems, It was hard to operate. Clutch worked like digital machine 0 or 1 it was really hard to operate smoothly this bike. Colour of fluid is telling me there is rust in system and also leak because level is below LOWER mark. Quick check and yep, there is a lot of rust in fluid reservoir is not tragic Just take a look xD I bought whole repair kit Direct comparison Hydraulic line torqued to spec Ok time to take care of this mess Piston looks bad Gasket is long time gone, no wonder it was leaking Sadly i wasnt able to buy new piston at that time (now i have new one) so I did what I could, I cleaned the piston with steel wool and wd40. There is still a lot of pitting but surprisingly its not leaking (i will repleace piston anyway) New parts from repair kit Time to fill and bleed the system Now its a lot better, lever works smoothly just like it should. But still clutch need some attention. Before even taking a look i bought new clutch set (turned out to be right decision) Engine flush wont hurt after such a long time without running Clutch soaking in oil Damn, looks really black 😞 But luckly there was no metal shavings and also magnet was clean. I didnt have at this time correct size washer but this one did the trick. Ok cover off Well, this clutch is garbage. Plates thickness is in spec but hardened up like a rock. Also there was a lot of heat telling by the look of this plates These plates were not included in the clutch kit, so I checked their curvature according to the service book. They were all within specifications so I cleaned them with a gray scotch brite. New springs were included in this kit. And worst part of this job, removing old gasket :( Filled with good quality new 10w40 oil. and took for a ride. Damn its a whole new bike now, clutch working perfectly. There is still a lot to do with this bike so stay tuned 😄

Really a very cool project. A lot of work has gone into it, I am impressed by your enthusiasm for this bike 😄

My 2014 8th gen...

The Kanguro has been reborn as 300cc edition So the 350 could get a little sister in theory

Well I actually own one from the list right now, the Kawasaki ZR7S There are a few interesting bikes on the list that a test ride would be fun if not owning. VTR1000F Super hawk Triumph ST1050 Suzuki VX800 Yamaha TDM850 Kawasaki ZRX1200 (I would be interested in the S) Suzuki RF900 Suzuki SV1000 Well the SV650 that is not on the list is actually a bike I really would like to own, had a friends loaned for a week, was a nice ride, Exactly the SV in picture above, it was a bit modified through. A question is if I want a older carb version or this newer fuel injected, I like both looks but older one has nicer clocks...but guess fuel injection is better these days.... But actually non that I really dream of in that list

Hey Peeps. I've some potentially good news on the shift shaft support front if anyone's interested? I'm sure many of you guys have at some point been interested in fitting an external gear shift shaft support only to find no-one make one for our 800's. From the info available all 800's & RC45's all use the same shift shaft assembly & the same shift casing. For those who aren't aware of this mod, it's a race proven bolt on external needle bearing support to the exposed gear shift shaft, adds extra support to the shift casing needle bearing & oil seal, which in turn will live longer, also gives full support to the external shift shaft, many racers use these to good effect, it's supposed to help with high rev gear changes, help minimise false neutrals & missed gears due to shaft flex, not that I've ever experienced this phenomena myself. Since I'm soon to be delving into a DIY shift star mod, I thought why the hell not make my own shift shaft support while I'm in there, costed up some blocks of T6, not that cheap for a small order, so a DiY unit won't be cost effective. Contacted a few fabrication shops, had a positive response from a well known UK company that fabricates a range of bolt on race products, no VFR add ons are currently in their product range, had some lengthy email chat with the owner, sent him a used shift shaft casing & shaft to suss it out, due to the casings dimensions I suspect he'll be considering a 2 bolt design, I did the same to begin with, after some more thought, I came up with a simpler 1 bolt assembly that is simpler to CNC, so we'll see what kinda prototype design he comes up with, he's mega busy, but promised to get back to me in a couple of months when he's sorted the design & all the dimensions & machining out, all being well I can strike up a decent discount for VFR owners on this forum, shipping will obviously add to the cost for some, but a group buy may well be on offer. Let me know guys if you're interested, numbers will obviously make a group buy more cost effective. I'm hoping the finished product will be less than £100 GBP, per unit. Watch this space for future updates.

Hey y'all I had my ignition fuse blow one ride, but when I replaced it, it blows almost immediately after starting. I'm fairly certain it's a short, and I'm trying to trace it right now. Is there any rubbing points on some wires that could be the cause? Would love some information on the ignition circuit if possible, any vulnerable connectors or something.