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Distilled into its simplest form. That is the correct answer! 🏍️😁

You might want to consider trying to soften the boots a bit before re-installing them. I have done this with my old VF1100 Sabres boots and my VF1000R's boots. At the time I could not find replacements for either and I just wanted to get on with it. It worked well for me. Like in the video I used real Wintergreen oil with a 1 part Wintergreen to 3 parts alcohol. You will need to source wintergreen oil, but I managed to find some cheap online. Here is a link to how it works. I will say everybody seems to have their own mixture and way of doing it, so I would spend some time looking at some videos and reading before starting. How To: Restoring Rubber with Wintergreen Oil (No Heat!) - YouTube I also ran into this stuff while looking for ways to soften my boots. I have absolutely no experience with it as I went with the above. Just putting out there if you want to give it a try. 6 oz Rubber Soft! Conditions Rejuvenates Softens Motorcycle Snow ATV UTV Parts | eBay Best of Luck.

Just buy a red one, you can't go wrong, and it's faster.

I have a 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th Gen VFR in my garage. As you are interested in 4th and 5th Gens I'll limit my opinions to Those. 4th Gen: Bought with 40,000 miles on clock, current 114,000. Last of the carbureted VFR's, as noted by others smooth linear, predictable power band. Simple brake set up, easy to service, works fairly well IMO. Odd 170 called for on rear, I have run 180's on that rim no problem. Current running a 3rg Gen 5.5" 8 spoke with a 180. Bought with upgraded charging system, so have had zero issues in 74K. Engine is bulletproof, just now one valve is out of spec in 114K. Looks wise, one of the best ever, and not just from Honda. Had it in the Rockies, Dakotas, St. Lawrence seaway to the end of the Gaspe, and all the usual suspects in VA, NC, TN, GA, etc. multiple times. It is truly a great Sport Tourer. 5th Gen. Bought 17 months ago with 11,500 miles, currently 23,750 Sat for 15-19 years, and it showed mechanically, cosmetics pretty good. Rusted tank, dried up brake fluid, etc. Nothing that an average motorcycle owner couldn't deal with, it just took time to sort out. EFI instead of carbs, one of the few things the owner had cleaned before I bought it, no issues. Linked brakes instead of separate systems. I was prepared to hate them, and had de link near the top of my to do list. Still waiting to hate them a year and a half later. De link quietly dropped from my list. They do take a while to bleed, and there is a clear order in how to do it, but if you can read a Service manual, you will be fine. I run a 3rd Gen rear rim on this one also with standard 180 rear, 120 front. As noted above, more tire choices than you've had hot breakfasts. Still running original REG/Rectifier, cleaned all contacts after buying, no issues. Bought a Honda Mosfet for a Honda CB500X on ebay for $26 delivered. Its going in this winter. Had the bike down to VA, NC and up to Cape Breton in Nova Scotia this May. Over to western PA and up to Quebec, and the Gaspe this Sept. and Oct. This is another winner in the Sport Tourer field as far as I'm concerned. It is refined, forgiving, and seems to be like its forbearers, bulletproof. In short, as many have noted here, buy the best example you can find of the 2, and move on. I doubt you will be disappointed. Just because, I'll post side by side pics. Good Luck!

For the exhaust crusher ring gaskets I recommend delkevic 42mm. We used them for the WiLD/VFRD headers. They're a little tight but when crushed don't protrude into the exhaust stream as much as the stock gasket

Absolutely!

M Brane, I had the boots ligned up correctly and the correct long jis screwdriver. Yes I got it off with the long jis screwdriverbut I am not confident getting them back on tight enough and not messing the head of the screws. I tightend the clamps as much as I could without messing up the screws but the throttle body was not as secure as I liked. The boots are not as soft as they once were and do not fit as new. I am not buying new as the boots will work if I can get them tight. Mello Dude, I think you are bang on. I too used the mirror and flash light but missing the flex extension. Extension on order. I like the idea of changeing screws to the allen/socket head. Socket heads ordered from Amazon. M5x25 308 SS 25peices (cheap) I can do all 3 bikes for that.

Indeed. You can bolt a 3rd gen 5.5" right on. You can also fit a 5th gen wheel with just a little relieving for for the disc nuts. I did this when I was stealing the 5.5" 8-spoke wheel from a 1990 I was flipping.

I'm sure 4th gens can do rear wheel swaps, but 5th gens stock tire size is super common to this day. 120/70 + 180/55 is like default settings for any mid-size sports whatever from any brand even in 2026. The amount of tire choices is endless for that combo.

Same idea, I use a long 1/4" Milwaukee impact extension fit with a JIS bit (NOT in an impact driver...). Extension fits in any multi-drive screwdriver that accepts 1/4" bits. Go in from the sides below the aluminum twin spar frame.

When I did mine, my patience was already totally shot, looked at the loooong JIS option and took a pass on that. (Although I did get it appart with it.) Changed out the screws to socket heads and finagled it together with the flex shaft thing and extention mirror. 3 hands would have been good too to hold a flashlight...Its a screwball job either way. ....

Again, for the record I'm not complaining about VFR weight. Don't think I ever have. This was just me musing about throwing around 750lb (before luggage etc) 1800s and how the VFR feels like it weighs nothing at all.

That is a big thick limb and the percentage is above 90%. Been doing it for decades, I do not own a fuel injected bike, and have about 40.

oinmg way ut on a limb herre but t re, but ..= But if carbs are drained before storage, its about 90% sure they will still be ok.<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< FI is great for coming out of storage but carbs are just as 'Reliable"

I am forced to run ethanol in my area if I actually want to go anywhere. If the bike is stored in a somewhat controlled environment without drastic temperature fluctuations (that tends to help create moisture/condensation in tanks), draining the carbs during extended non-use will suffice. If it has to be stored outside... Get some really good additives. And FILL the tank to minimize air space. Fucking ethanol. I have a 35 gallon gas pump of non-E in my outer garage for my power equipment and vintage bikes.

If you orient the clamps correctly all you need is a long JIS screwdriver. A small flashlight helps too.

Except for that ethanol thing. Better be adding some stabilizer or better yet drain the tank, and the float bowls.

Current 3rd and 4th owner. The 4th is the pinnacle of a carb 750. The smoothest, most linear power delivery of any bike I have ridden. Absolute heaven sounding with a nice slip on muffler. My high mount Staintune is bliss. 5.5 gallon tank is nice compared to my 3rd gen 5.0. The 3rd gen is the thirstiest bike I have ever owned. It has 4th gen headers and a custom Sudco slip on with stock main jets. Runs perfect, guzzles gas. It does have bigger carbs than the 4th gen. I would eventually like to F around with a 5th. Goodbye DCBS. But if it meant getting rid of my 3 or 4, forget it. No deal.

I had a 4th gen for 7 years and went to a 5th gen... both bikes are awesome... I should have kept both...

You won't go wrong with either, and as you live in California carbs sitting idle for long periods is not an issue for you. Buy the bike that is is the best condition and preferably with a good documented service history. If the bike has been regularly ridden and not a Garage Queen, it is often in better shape than one with low mileage that has not been carefully stored. It doesn't have to be a Dealer service history. Enthusiasts who care about their bikes often keep detailed records. The Owner reviews at MCN are very useful. https://www.motorcyclenews.com/bike-reviews/honda/vfr750/1995/#ownersReviews https://www.motorcyclenews.com/bike-reviews/honda/vfr800/1998/

I bought the 5th gen because of the very short riding season due to harsh and long in Calgary which is not very kind to carbs, but I do prefer the look of the 4th Gen, especially in Honda's Red,White and Blue Racing colours. Judging by Owner reviews I have a feeling that it more fun and generally easier to maintain. My '99 has never failed to start in Spring.

Our Viffers are not really heavy. It's the top heaviness due to the high fuel tank and the narrow and low clip ons that make it seem heavy. Sit on a vintage UJM bike of similar or more weight like the Suzuki GS 1000E or 1100E (not the cruisers) with a low flat tank and 'sensible' handlebars and footpegs and you don't feel any heaviness.

ST is much heavier than the VFR800 but with a low Centre of Gravity due to the low fuel storage, and very easy to handle once it gets moving, just like a Goldwing. ST's are selling for very low prices here in Calgary. Very underappreciated.

Good to know this and be prepared in advance. I am planning to give my Viffer a very thorough going over this Summer from top to bottom, and install Convertibars At about $200/hour shop charges I do not balk at buying most tools. Also, the job that you do yourself is often better than a rushed shop service Ross (Fellow Canuck in Calgary)

I have three 5th gens at the moment. I have not really riden any of them other than riding them home. I just had to have them. I wonder about myself sometimes. Any how, during the winterization/storage I found the blue 2000 would not start. I checked for spark and found spark though I should have been more thorough in retrospect. I looked for fuel on the plugs and they looked dry. My plan is to get the blue running and only replace what is needed. I am not going to "you are there anyways, you might as well, or best practices are". Tools that I do buy will serve me in the future (my treat for not paying someone else) or will be "rentals" to be sold when I am finished. I bought a fuel pressure tester and found a peak of 40 psi and settled when off at 36psi (for how long I don't know). The test in the manual states to do the test while running but I obviously could not do that. I then did a flow test which was way over the spec in the manual. Tests seem okay. I then removed the throttle body and injectors. Tested and cleaned the injectors, all good. I then cleaned and blew out the throttle body and hoses. I could have gone all out with o-ring/injector replacement, dipping the bodies in chemical cleaner and then give them the ultra sonic treament but decided not to at this time. I can always come back to that if needed. I am now waiting on a flex screwdriver attachement to secure the throttle bodies rubber boots. It does not mention the need in the manual but I see not ohter way to secure them properly and/or not damage the screws. The rubber boots have deteriated little other than some shrinkage. You can find replacements but the originals should do. If the plugs are still dry when I try to start up again I will switch tanks with a running bike to see if the pump is the problem even though it tested okay. Once I get the blue one running I plan on painting the blue and then the black myself. That should be interesting. I have always wanted to paint. Again I wonder about myself sometimes.