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  1. 22 points
  2. 20 points

    From the album: Michigan to Colorado 2012

    At Independence Pass, CO on the way to Aspen during a day ride while at the MSTA's 2012 STAR event in Avon, CO. From MI, we took a northern route from via 95% secondary roads. Saw "real" America and met unique Americans.

    © ©2012 AnnieR

  3. 20 points
  4. 19 points

    From the album: my trips

    In 1998 I jumped back to the VFR fold with this brand new VFR800. Resprayed wheels improve visual and a Yoshimura RS3 helps unleash the aural. Unfortunately this bike met an untimely end when it was stolen less than a year, and 25K km later.

    © Lorne Black

  5. 17 points
    It is finally time to reveal my project, show the process, and hopefully give back to this great community I have learned so much from! I have been riding on the street since I was 16 (I'm now 30) and have owned a few different bikes: 92 ex500, 97 CBR 600 F3, 2000 DRZ400, 1997 GSXR 750, 2002 VFR 800 and now a 95 VFR 750. Please bear with me as I give a little explanation of how this project came to be... there will be lots of pictures to come! Over my time riding I have always liked the idea of owning a naked style bike like a triumph speed triple. Smooth windscreen-less air, fun sit up riding position, a tourqey engine, fairly comfortable, great on a tight backroad, cool looks... etc. And now that I live in a place with a lot of great backroads I decided it was a good time to pursue that idea. I really liked my VFR 800, it was smooth, refined and great for trips with my dad. However the idea of tearing it down for a streetfighter project didn't really make sense... too much complication and lots of things to hide. I thought about buying a naked bike but riding a brand new triumph speed triple showed me dreaming about a bike doesn't mean I'm going to love riding it. Besides... I was really on a tight budget with my wife finishing nursing school. So I sold the VFR 800 to a friend and decided to look for a bike to convert to a naked/streetfighter. I had enough money to buy a CBR1000RR or other similar bikes... but I wasn't sure I wanted that much power at my disposal and really loved the refinement and character the V4 VFR's provide. Really nothing I've ridden compares... The speed triple had character but lacked some of the refinement of the VFR. To me it was a no-brainer picking a 4th gen VFR. They have a good looking frame, a radiator in front, and are less complicated than 5th and 6th gen bikes. So I found a 95 VFR with 34000km in quite good condition to start the transformation. I know many of you will not like that I tore into a VFR in quite good shape, but let me give you a bit of my reasoning. Anyone who has tackled a project bike will probably attest to the fact that starting with a good base will avoid a lot of extra head-aches down the road diagnosing issues, wondering about frame straightness, fixing and repairing all sorts of components along the way... etc. And a bike in good shape allowed me to sell parts along the way to raise money for the build. Besides, I know the look of the VFR is a huge part of it's identity, but really that's just a plastic shell and in the end and the V4 engine is the heart of the machine. Anyway, my goal here was to have a bike that road like brand new in the end. To have a bike that I wish honda would build (though I probably wouldn't be able to afford it anyway...). OEM+ was the idea. I would give a lot of thought along the way to making a bike that functioned, looked and rode for the most part like an OEM product or better. I rode this bike for a few months until my regulator/rectifier went up in smoke... suprise! Oh well... winter was around the corner so it was a good time to start tearing it down! Along the way I had to source A LOT of parts and components (I'll make a bit of a list at the end). A big one at this point was the CBR929/954 front end swap. The forks and brakes were actually purchased from Bailyrock! And let me tell you... I think these forks are brand new :) I did some photoshop work and decided I wanted to try and adapt a speed triple seat. It looked like it would fit around the tank and it would allow my wife to ride on the back. Then I set about mocking up the subframe in wood. Then I recovered the speed triple seat with a luimoto cover Got my wheels powder coated Bought a Two brothers muffler used for a speed triple and had the V.A.L.E flange welded to a delkevic mid-pipe for the 4th gen bikes Put the wheels on so I could keep building After I was happy with the subframe mockup (test fitting the placement of the passenger pegs for my wife was kind of interesting with a wood frame...) I set about using my carpentry tools to cut up some aluminum. My dad gave me the tip of making a jig for the welder to hopefully keep his labor costs down... While the subframe was away for welding I cut off my front fairing subframe mounting tabs, fitted my front headlight (with mounts machined by a custom fighters.com member), and made a 929 shock adapter. It's starting to come together! The subframe back from the welder! I'm very pleased with the result... My ballistic battery and koso gauge came in. Made a gauge mount for the RC51 triple and let the bike out for a little air Now it was on to bodywork making time... This was a HUGE part of the project and I learned a lot along the way. I used 1" LDF glued together to shape the plugs for the parts. I'll let the pictures do the talking... And here are the plugs ready for fiberglass... a lot of things didn't go as planned at this stage and my moulds needed a lot of work to make even rough parts. But in the end I was able to come up with one off fiberglass bodywork. I knew this would be a lot of work... but it ended up being even more. And then I still had to figure out all the mounting tabs... I thought it would never end. Eventually I was finally ready to tear the bike down for thorough cleaning and powder coating. I had everything done in a fine texture black and the exhaust ceramic coated in a kind of matte aluminum color. It was like christmas unwrapping all the parts :) Then it was reassembly time. My dad came and helped me out for a few days. It was great to have his help and skill for this part of the process. I love that we have a common interest in bikes! Had a good weekend and got the bike into a rolling chassis. I'm sure my Dad has had enough of repacking bearings for a while... Then it was back to figuring out how to mount the bodywork and getting the parts ready for paint Found a nice spot to mount my ignition and made some aluminum bezels The CBR1000 front fender has some broken mounting tabs Made a battery/electronics box out of aluminum and covered it in 3m CF vinyl Found a local painter who let me help with the prep work to keep costs lower (he would spray the high build primer and I would do the wet sanding/spot filling) After a few rounds of primer and sanding the parts were all ready for paint. The plan all along was to match the stock pearl red on my tank and the painter didn't think this would be a problem with his ppg system... until he actually tried to enter the info into his computer. Apparently ppg doesn't have this color in their system. So... because the tank was getting painted anyway, I could choose whatever color I wanted! I knew red would look good... but I wanted something unique and fun, without being ridiculous. So I chose something else completely... While I was waiting on paint, I tacked the electrics, fuel pump and wiring harness... which is a TON of work and something I would like to do a better job of eventually. All the connections are soldiered and heat shrinked, and I used good connectors where needed, but to really do a good job of routing the wiring and taking out excess will take more time. And then the parts came back from paint! Its called Azzuro Meditterano (or something like that) and it's a ducati monster color. I know not everyone will like it, but I love blue and am very happy with the color! PS the seat cowl is a Carbon Fiber speed triple part I got off ebay. I haven't started making carbon fiber parts yet... maybe someday. I did however modify the sides of the seat cowl with fiberglass to help it blend in with the tail section better. And now its time to reassemble the bike completely! My dad rode his brand new Multistrada 1200 over from alberta to help out. Final assembly was a lot of work and I would prob still be working on it if it wasn't for my dad coming to help. Anyone who modifies motorcycles knows that every change affects so many other things... needless to say there were many things to figure out, and some that will be a work in progress. It took me over 9 months, and there are still some things to complete or change, but here is the mostly final product!!!! So far I have put about 1300km on the bike and am loving it!!! It has turned out to be pretty much everything I wanted it to be. I will give a more detailed ride report later but for now I need to take a break from the computer :) I hope everyone enjoys seeing the process. There are so many details I didn't cover but I will list the mods later and answer any questions people have as best I can. I need to thank this forum a million time for all for all of the things I learned from those who have done these kinds of mods before. You are a great bunch and I appreciate all of the help. Also my Dad deserves a huge high five for all of his help, My Uncle for all of the last minute tech support and above all a gigantic thank you to my wonderful wife for putting up with me as I built my dream bike!
  6. 17 points

    From the album: my VFRs

    This totem is the Salish Bear pole at the summit of the Malahat highway near Victoria BC. It was carved in celebration of the 1966 centennary of the merger of colonies of Vancouver Island and British Columbia. The elevation is a modest 356 metres, or 1157 feet, above Saanich Inlet which can just be spied in the background.

    © Lorne Black

  7. 15 points

    From the album: Random Pics From The Road

    Ride here, tent there.
  8. 15 points
  9. 14 points

    From the album: my trips

    I spied this interesting rock formation along Cal-247 just north of Joshua Tree, California in 1994.

    © Lorne Black

  10. 14 points
  11. 13 points
    I was finally able to capture the Pearl White beauty of my 2014...in one of the most beautiful areas in the Country, Sedona Arizona.
  12. 13 points
  13. 13 points
  14. 13 points
    Hwy 3 on the South side of Mt Scott. Trinity Natl Forest.
  15. 13 points

    From the album: Shinigami's gallery

    Fall colors in central UT
  16. 13 points

    From the album: vfr on track

    first track day ever with my VFR, the location is the new San Martino del Lago circuit, Cremona, Italy in the future will upload more photos
  17. 12 points
    I've embarked on doing a single nut rear axle conversion to my 6th Gen/5th Gen VFR825. Mohawk did it a couple of years ago and I used his ideas but ended up with a brand new RC45 rear wheel instead of the carbon wheel like Mohawk. (Yep, I got hold of a pair of RC45 wheels that a guy has had in a cupboard unused since the mid nineties) The donor axle was a VFR400 and so is the caliper, disk, and caliper carrier. Had to get the taper spacer for the wheel and a new nut and shim, from an RC45 via Partzilla and Tyga Performance. When I started, I could not find a donor VFR400 (NC30) so I used an axle from an MC28 but found that the MC28 axle is made from lower tensile steel and it's internal profile is quite different and I felt weaker than the NC30 axle. I would advise anyone doing this mod to use the NC30 donor parts and not the MC28. The cush drive assembly is based on a Ducati quick change unit from JT and I've used a set of urethane bobbins instead of the genuine Ducati SilentBloc rubber ones. In the end this has shaved 3.0kg off the unsprung weight on the rear. The assembly drawing lists all the parts used including the part numbers and suppliers. If anyone wants to go down the same route, I've made a full set of CAD drawings and these, along with photos, are below. Disk and axle Cush Drive Assembly and Rebuilt/painted NC30 caliper Cush Drive and Axle assembled Caliper fitted All fitted up Chain guard/hugger fitted and brake hose/sensor cable bound RC45 wheel, Tyga spacer and Wheel nut Drawings Cush Drive Assembly.pdf Axle machining dwg 1.pdf Caliper Mounting Plate.pdf Cush Drive Backing Plate.pdf Cush Drive Retainer Washer.pdf Sprocket Carrier.pdf
  18. 12 points
    This guide was created because I couldn't seem to find one that was very thorough and included pictures of all procedures. This guide requires the use of Speed Bleeders as it makes life so much easier! You can follow this guide using the old school method as well, but it will require more time and patience. Readers Notes: Left and ride side are determined as if you were sitting on the motorcycle. Images come after descriptions. Initialisms: LBS: Linked Braking System LPCV: Left-side (Servo) Proportional Control Valve (Battery side) RPCV: Right-side (Rear) Proportional Control valve (Opposite battery side) LMC: Lever Master Cylinder (Front) RMC: Rear Master Cylinder (Pedal) SMC: Secondary Master Cylinder (Left-Front Caliper) FSM: Factory Service Manual Parts Required: One man bleeder kit (optional) ATE SuperBlue Dot 4 Speed Bleeders Part Numbers: Front right caliper SB8125 Front left caliper outer bleeder SB8125 Front left caliper inner/centre bleeder SB8125 Rear caliper outer bleeder SB8125 Rear caliper inner/centre bleeder SB8125L Clutch bleeder SB8125L LPCV SB8125LL RPCV SB8125 Part 1: Theory Part 2: Diassembly And Prep Part 3: Procedure Part 4: Assembly Part 5: Clutch Part 1: Theory The LBS is confusing for some when it comes to understanding how it works. The function of the sytem changed from 5th generation LBS to 6th generation LBS. I'm not too sure what the changes were, but I do know they operate differently. The way the 6th generation LBS works is; when the front lever is applied, only five out of the six (three pistons in each left/right caliper) caliper pistons actuate as well as the centre piston in the rear caliper leaving the left caliper centre piston untouched. When the rear pedal lever is applied; only two out of the three rear caliper pistons actuate as well as the left front caliper centre piston. The LBS only works when the motorcycle is moving however, you can test this by propping your bike on the centre stand, rotating the rear wheel and applying the front brake; the rear wheel will not stop spinning. The way it works is by force. The SMC is mounted above the left caliper that's attached to the fork and with the motorcycle moving, the rider will apply the front brake which squeezes the pads on the rotor and that drag pivots the left front caliper up which actuates the SMC and brake fluid gets pushed through to the LPCV and then to the rear caliper centre piston. The rear doesn't work in the same way because there's actually a brake line that goes all the way to the front left caliper that actuates that one centre piston by it's lonesome with the application of the rear pedal. Thanks to BartmanEH for the above picture! Part 2: Disassembly And Preparation You want your bike to be on a level ground and prop the bike up on it's centre stand for this whole procedure. Rotate the handle bar all the way to the left so the LMC is level. Remove both screws and remove all the old fluid inside the LMC. You can use a turkey baster or rags, whatever you wish. Once the old fluid is out, fill it up with fresh new fluid. Make sure you squeeze the front lever a few times just incase you got any air bubbles when removing the old fluid. Using an allen wrench, loosen, but do not remove the left front caliper bolts. Remove the seat and do the same procedure you did for the LMC to the RMC. Don't forget to press the pedal lever a few times to remove any air bubbles. Remove the rear wheel. Remove the two bolts that hold the rear caliper together. The inside one is tricky and I needed to use a long 12mm socket to reach it. Once the rear caliper is removed, mount it at the 10 o'clock position on the rotor. The reason for this is so the inner/centre bleed screw is facing up, not parallel to the ground. Part 3: Procedure The procedure and order we're going to follow is the same one listed in the FSM, but with more pictures and explanations. Sections C. and D. are the most difficult. You will need a helper as well. USING FRONT MASTER CYLINDER LEVER FOR A. AND B. A. Left Front Caliper, Upper/Outer Bleed Screw This is basic bleed. Open very slightly, usually about a 1/4 turn and pump the front lever until new fluid comes out. Even though I use speed bleeders, I still pressurize it old school method just to be on the safe side. The old school method is; with the bleeder screw closed, have your helper pump the front lever five times and hold. While holding, gently unscrew the bleeder screw until fluid comes out and before the lever reaches it's maximum travel, tighten the bleed screw. Top up the fluid level. B. Right Front Caliper, Single Bleed Screw This procedure is the same as above. Make sure you keep an eye on the fluid level as it drains. USING REAR MASTER CYLINDER PEDAL FOR C. TO G. C. Leftside PCV (Battery side), Single Bleed Screw Actuated via SMC This step is the most confusing and difficult one as it requires good timing between yourself and your helper. The SMC is not attached at all to the front lever in anyway. You can unscrew the LPCV bleeder screw and pump the front lever all day long and no fluid will get pushed through. You could manually actuate the SMC by hand and only a little bit of fluid will come out and then stop. The correct method to do this; from what I've gathered on how the system operates and without using a vacuum bleed tool is as follows. Remove the two bolts that hold the left front caliper on. I used an aluminum L-bracket I had lying around to wedge between the pads so they don't close. Tilt the caliper 15° from the ground so the inner/centre bleed screw is facing up. Your helper will be on the RMC side pressing the pedal and you will be at the left front caliper in charge of manually actuating the SMC and loosening/tighten the LPCV bleed screw. The way this system works is; there's a brake line that goes from the RMC to the SMC and from the SMC to the LPCV. Because there's no reservoir at the SMC, there's no way for new fluid to replenish to continue being pushed through the lines and out the LPCV bleeder screw, however, this is where the RMC comes in. When your helper presses the RMC pedal down, the SMC piston will get pushed out filling it with fresh fluid. Once your helper releases the pedal, you will manually actuate the SMC by pressing it in to the caliper with your hand and fluid will get pushed through to the LPCV bleeder screw. Push the SMC in with your hand. Do not release from this point. Tell your helper to press the pedal again which will forcefully push the SMC out and then once your helper releases the pedal, you will manually push the SMC in again watching for new fluid. Once fresh fluid is coming out, I performed a final pressure bleed by tightening the LPCV bleeder, asking my helper to pump the rear pedal five times and release, then I loosened the LPCV bleeder screw and manually actuated the SMC gently half way and then tightened the bleed screw. Note: Even with speed bleeders installed, I did not manually operate the SMC more than once for safe measure. To further elaborate on this; continuously pushing in the SMC numerous times will not bleed the SMC to LPCV brake line because there is no reservoir at the SMC. You will push whatever fluid is in the line and it will become empty with air. One manual push of the SMC followed by one rear pedal actuation by your helper. D. Rear Caliper, Inner/Centre Bleed Screw Actuated via SMC This procedure is the exact same as the above. The only difference is, you're bypassing the LPCV and going all the way to the rear caliper inner/centre bleed screw. Pressurize the sytem the same way as above too. E. Rightside PCV (Opposite Battery), Single Bleed Screw This is the easiest step. Follow the procedure as in Section A. but using the RMC pedal. F. Rear Caliper, Upper/Outer Bleed Screw Another easy step, follow above procedure. G. Left Front Caliper, Inner/Centre Bleed Screw The last procedure, again very easy, same as above. Part 4: Assembly Top up both fluids if they are low and fasten all caps and lids back on the reservoir. Attach the front left caliper and torque the pivot and joint bolts to 23ft-lbs. The FSM says always use new bolts, but I cleaned up the old loctite residue, re-applied some new medium strength loctite and re-used them. Attach the rear caliper and torque the joint bolts to 23ft-lbs. The FSM says replace also but I did the same as the front caliper bolts. Reinstall the rear wheel and torque bolts to 80ft-lbs. Now would be a good time to prime (pump a few times) your front lever and rear pedal lever. Once primed, they should not travel a lot of distance; they should feel stiff. If for any reason the levers travel a larger than normal distance, then there's probably air in the line somewhere or you might have forgot to tighten a bleed screw. Note: The FSM says to use new bolts, not because there is something wrong with the bolts, but because there is probably some sort of loctite already applied to the threads. Thank you Metallican525 for that insight. Part 5: Clutch I don't have to go in to any detail about this because if you just did your whole brake system, might as well do the clutch as it's very simple and same procedure at Part 3, Section A. Remember to turn the handle bars to the right though. At the end, I took my bike for a ride and I had no idea that this bike has this much braking power! Mind you, my fluid was 6 years old which was probably the cause of that but this method works flawlessly. I hope this DIY was very thorough and gave you a good understanding on how to tackle this easy but tiresome procedure!
  19. 12 points

    From the album: my VFRs

    My '91 VFR750 along Mill Bay, probably in 1994

    © Lorne Black

  20. 12 points
  21. 12 points
  22. 12 points
  23. 12 points
    I chose no scenic spot at all. I just had to play with my camera and some flashes when the bike was parked in the garage during winter hibernation. New wallpaper for the computer. Yey!
  24. 11 points
  25. 11 points
    NO FRICKIN' WAY! When a project hits a couple of the 'just one more week' cycles, it raises one's eyebrow a bit. But here is physical molecular evidence of the cause of giant ____-eating grins on the faces of 22 VFR owners: Rows of cylinders 1-2 merges alongside rows of cylinders 3-4 merges: And here is a set of production headers just the way we like our women...almost fully dressed:
  26. 11 points
    I took my 2014 VFR800 on my first ironbutt ride last Saturday. I rode from Cleveland, Ohio to Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan and back. I did 1054.3 miles between 7:30 am and midnight. The highlight of the ride was crossing the Mackinac bridge twice. The vfr is just a great bike.
  27. 11 points
    I got home Sunday afternoon after spending a couple of days in Denver, then riding to Park City, UT, spending four days hiking there and taking three to ride the 1,000 miles from Utah home. No issues with the bike, total mileage for the tour was 3,525 miles/5,673 kms. First, thanks to Tony (Didit) for organizing another great SumSum. It's always nice to see familiar faces and meet some new folks too. The rides were great, and this was the most educational VFRD event I've attended. I learned a lot watching Lee and Kevin's stator-ectomies as well as Ernest's chain resection. My bike is due for some maintenance this winter. Since reliability is important to me, I'll be inspecting (and probably replacing) my stator. The chain also has some stiff, slightly kinky links, so chain and sprockets are on the list too. I also enjoyed the parking lot Corner Carver Clinic™ with Tammy as pilot. For some reason I always like turning right better than left. The cornering tips gave me a new way of thinking about cornering so that left turns were more enjoyable (an opportunity to practice) for the rest of the tour. It was great to finally meet the famous Carver clan, and see the enthusiasm with which mini-Carver tore into Kevin's stator transplant. It was unfortunate that Kevin and Lee had to sit out the ride days waiting for parts, but the superhuman effort by Fred and Lisa to rescue Kevin from Bozeman, MT and the parking lot repairs that allowed everyone to ride home were inspiring. I hope Honda is aware of sites (thanks Miguel) and rider communities like ours and that it encourages them to continue development of the V4 800 and bring it back into the North American market. I decided to try something new on this tour. I left my trusty Nikon digital camera and Samsung netbook behind and brought only my Samsung smartphone. I hate typing with my thumbs, so I picked up a small, folding bluetooth keyboard to use with the phone. I also bought a US SIM card to avoid outrageous roaming charges. It all seemed to work pretty well and was a much smaller, lighter setup. I arrived at The Chief Motel on Tuesday, unloaded the bike, showered and headed toward The Rocket looking for other VFRD inmates. I spotted Tony and a few others walking to the brew pub next door for dinner--and SumSum4 was on! The next morning I set off with Curry, Al and Gordon but our progress was quickly halted by a lot of unprocessed hamburger meat in the road. We made our way to the site of the stoned presidents. The old west town of Deadwood, where I noticed that while the ladies were scantily clad, they seemed a bit wooden. We carried on to see more stuff carved out of mountains (you'd think they could find an easier medium to work with), the Insane Equine: On the ride back to Custer, Cogswell wanted proof of where he takes his moto-touring holidays: The next day Cogswell and I decided to see the Needles: And revisit the presidents to compose them in a shot with something truly impressive 😜 Not VFR-related (but I used the bike to get there!), a few shots from the back end of my trip: Ski jumpers practicing at the Utah Olympic Park (Look closely, there's a little guy inverted over the water. This may be where the phone lets me down as a camera.) Park City historic downtown. And a few beauty shots from the hikes in and around Park City. Ski runs. Park City from the hills surrounding the Olympic Park. Bonnie Lake in the Uinta National Forest. Provo Falls. Wasatch mountains from 9,500 feet, about three hours into the Mt. Timpanogos hike. As a nice lady in a tiny (one pump) gas station in Oregon told me: "May you never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly!"
  28. 11 points
    Once again, Tony arranged an amazing meet. Huskysooner and I left NE Kansas at 0500 to meet Panamawing in Nebraska. We then headed west to our first destination. There is a street in western Nebraska that I share a name with and I've always wanted to visit it, but never had the opportunity. Heading north we crossed the Sand Hills of Nebraska.... a beautiful but desolate place with little sign of human presence. It was here that I first noticed I was having problems. I thought I had lost my speedometer drive nut as my display showed erratic speeds and mileage stopped rolling up. Unfortunately this was not the case, apparently the pulse generator or electronics that read it have low tolerance of low voltage. My stator was failing. At Alliance, NE my bike died when we pulled in to fill the tanks and would not start. A quick check of the battery showed it sitting at 9 volts. Huskysooner jumped on his dry clutch Ducati and rattled off to buy me a new battery. I disabled all non-critical electric circuits. A check with the a meter showed that the bike could (just barely) maintain 12 volts at 5,500 rpm. So off we went to Custer. Me with no lamps. At Custer, Huntingguns had returned from saving Cageless in Seattle from his burned stator. He had already started the process of getting a pair of stators on order. I was the lucky recipient of his foresight. Even with the head start, much of my meet was spent waiting for the FedEx truck to arrive. While I waited, I took a couple of small hikes around the area, taking in the history and scenery. Custer viewed from high above. I was also in the right place at the right time to help in the recovery of Shade's bike when he suffered a broken chain. A big thanks to Dragonfly and Q Dawg for providing the truck needed in this effort. It was like a quick response team jumped into action when the call came in. As soon as FedEx arrived I got to work repairing my bike while Mini Carver went to work on Cageless' motorbike. For those who showed interest in my mini ratchet set google <Wadsworth Super Deluxe Mini-ratchet set> As can be expected with any parking lot repair at a meet, there was a good size "cheering" section with all hands at the ready. Other than stubborn gaskets, all went well on both bikes. Not to be outdone, I burned my stator (right) to a slighly toastier state than Cageless. My bike had 55,xxx miles on it at this point. (New - 24 vac @ idle, 62 vac @ 5500 rpm) The evening festivities were entertaining and fun with Didit keeping everyone in stitches with Corner Carver's help on occasion. (They are not quite the team that Timmy and Carver are, but there was no shortage of things to laugh at.) My multi-meet roomate, GSwanson has moved from his sixth gen VFR to a BMW S1000 XR. He choked me up when he made a presentation of his Sargent saddle to me. I can tell you that it is a huge improvement over the stock seat as witnessed by the comfort I had on my 750+ mile ride home. I was greatly honored when CVVFR arranged to gift me a flag signed by the Canadians. It is a huge honor and a life treasure that I will display proudly. I can't even begin to explain how much this gesture meant to me. Thank you Canadian crew!!!!! At the advice of Axel_7 and Tammy, I was up before the sun the next day to take in the local sights on a foggy morning before the crowds could settle in. It was great advice as I had everything to myself. Following the ride Huskysooner, Panamawing and I joined forces again for the ride to our homes. Led by Panamawing, we took in a few more sights on our way out of Custer. We were able to witness the overnight/day shift change at the bison roadblock when the bison going off duty was relieved by his mate. As one wandered off the road another quickly stepped forward to maintain the post. SumSum 4 !!!!!!!
  29. 11 points

    From the album: Aeolo

    Sedbergh- Garsdale
  30. 11 points
  31. 11 points

    From the album: Doug"s Bike

    My brother's 98 VFR in Yosemite December 2011
  32. 10 points

    Version 1.0

    102735 downloads

    This is the same manual that is already available here on VFRD. I have been using this so much lately that I went ahead and made it a little more useful for myself. I assumed that some other members might like to have it as well. Combined both files into one. Optimized the file size so that it is only 60 MB. Ran OCR text recognition to enable text searches on the entire book. Rotated pages that had landscape page diagram for ease of viewing. Created bookmarks for each chapter & sub-chapters. I figured this was the least I could do to contribute since I am getting so much help from this forum.
  33. 10 points
    Almost ready to roll down the road. Just missing few bikes
  34. 10 points
  35. 10 points
  36. 10 points
  37. 10 points

    From the album: VFR-45

    © &copyvfdiscussion.com

  38. 10 points

    From the album: vfr400

    great Miller track day on the vfr400 :)

    © Steve Midgley (permission)

  39. 10 points

    From the album: my trips

    Taking 5 on the PCH near Jenner, California after a touch of vertigo.

    © Lorne Black

  40. 10 points
  41. 10 points
    Pt Reyes CA. Rode through a sand drift that was waaay deeper and softer than I thought on this ride and happy to report a) that I kept it up and b) that the VFR is pretty good motocrosser. Thats NZcam's tail tidy/license plate bracket on there.
  42. 10 points

    From the album: Turkey Day Runaway II

    In the end, you must go home.

    © Brian Fairleigh Photography

  43. 10 points
    Hello fellow riders! I tend to be mostly a forum lurker, so this is my first post. Thought I'd share a few pictures. I haven't gotten around to name her yet unfortunately. :) Take care and be safe!
  44. 9 points
    A pre-production prototype header assembly with specifications nearly identical to the Two Brothers Racing [TBR] 5th gen VFR 800 header is now being constructed in southern California. This is a new thread duplicating a post on the VFRD '5th & 6th VFR 800 Header build' thread. The objective of this new thread is to give the project described below an opportunity to stand on its own four cylinders. There is a metric ton of valuable data and opinion on the old thread, so if you're new to VFR headers and curious about the gestation of this project, don't deny yourself the pleasure of reviewing it. Here is photographic evidence of the work in progress. This photo shows the jig that has been fabricated in order to get the proper layout of the performance headers. Photos taken 12/26/2018: *Acknowledgements: From the start of this project, we knew we'd need help, and so sought assistance from some very well respected, long time VFRD members. Special thanks to VFRD member Cornercarver for the generous and trusting loan of his prized, irreplaceable [Until now!] set of original TBR headers. We also would like to thank VFRD member RVFR for his support of this effort through contributions from the 2017 gofundme header fund. Contributing members - all massively experienced and extremely helpful - include but are not limited to: Sebspeed, Cornercarver, TimmytheCop, MiniCarver, BusyLittleShop, BuzznerSuntrusts, RVFR, Mohawk, Mello Dude, CandyRedRC46, Stray, keef, voided76, and 3dcycle. Our sincere thanks to all these individuals and others for their wise counsel. Without you, we could neither be getting a prototype built, nor could we have established a path to a production version of this performance header. *General information / major bullet points: [1] The production version of the performance header assembly described here will be hand built in southern California and cost $790.00 plus shipping from the manufacturer. California residents need to add 7.75% state sales tax. [2] The header will fit 5th and 6th gen VFR800s. [8th gen owners, see Note 'a' below] [3] The header will go into production when orders for 15 units are received with a $200 deposit per unit. [4] The prototype header is scheduled to be completed by 1/11/2019. [5] A baseline dyno run of a VFR fitted with 98/99 headers and same day/same dyno full tune of the same VFR with prototype header installed is scheduled for the week of 1/14/2019. [Dyno testing methodology is detailed under 'Dyno testing procedure'] [6] The list below of deposits received will be kept updated, and we will be adding a second list of individuals interested in seeing the dyno results before placing a deposit. If you are interested, PM us and let us know the following: a] which gen VFR [5th, 6th, or 8th] you would like a header for b] which fueling management system you use or intend to use c] which slipon muffler/midpipe you have or will use d] if you intend to have your exhaust system dyno tuned e] if more than one unit, how many headers you are interested in purchasing f] if you are placing a deposit *A LIST - 5th gen/6th gen header orders with deposits received: 1-Duc2V4 5th gen Rapid Bike TBR slipon yes dyno tune 1 5/6th [maybe 2nd header for 6th gen] 2-VFR7503 6th gen PC3 has TBR and Leo Vince maybe dyno 1 5/6th 3-WackenSS 5th gen PC3 [RB in future] Leo Vince yes dyno 1 5/6th 4-jim v 6th gen PC3 [maybe RB in future] Micron yes dyno 1 5/6th [maybe full system] 5-MadScientist 5th gen PCV w autotune Micron low, MIG high autotune [maybe dyno] 1 5/6th 6-bornes 6th gen Rapid Bike SC Project CR-T yes dyno 1 5/6th 7-Airisom 5th gen PC3 or PCV Delkevic yes dyno 1 5/6th 8-CornerCarver 5th gen PC2 or better Wolf [sweet!] yes dyno 3 5/6th 9-CC 5 eng in 6 chassis PCV Staintune yes dyno 10-CC 6th gen Rapid Bike OEM 11-Sebspeed 5th gen 1 5/6th 12-Mbrane 5th gen PC [which PC TBD] miscellaneous yes dyno 2 5/6th 13-MBrane 14-interceptor69 5th PC3 Vance & Hines no dyno 1 5/6th 15-3Dcycle 6th gen 1 5/6th 16-moosemoose 5th gen RB Delkevic 1 5/6th 17-sfdownhill 5th gen PC3 Staintune yes dyno 1 5/6th 18-EX-XX 5th gen PC2 Custom midpipe/slipon yes dyno 1 5/6th 19-GreginDenver 5th gen TBD 1 5/6th 20-Funkatron 5th gen PC3 TBR maybe dyno 1 5/6th 21-Tirso 5th gen PC3/PCV w auto Staintune no dyno 1 5/6th 22-8th gen prototype LIST 8 - 8th gen headers with deposits received 1-HighSideNZ 8th gen header 6 chassis /825cc 5eng/front rad Rapid Bike Leo Vince 1 8th 2-Fz6wja 1 8th 3-samuelx PCV Yoshimura yes dyno 1 8th *B LIST - parties interested in purchasing a 5th/6th gen and/or 8th gen header who prefer to wait before placing a deposit: -Samuelx 8th gen RB or PCV current Delk, Yosh, OEM maybe dyno 1 8th -Voided76 8th gen Rapid Bike Assorted slipons 1 8th -Stray 8th gen header front rad 5th 1 8th -boOZZIE 6th gen Rapid Bike Micron yes dyno 1 5/6th -RC51Nick 6th gen Rapid Bike/autotune Staintune autotune 1 5/6th -carlgustav 6th gen Rapid Bike M4 no dyno 1 5/6th -CornerCarver 8th gen header front rad 5 eng in 6 chassis PCV Staintune yes dyno 2 8th 8th gen header front rad Torocharged 6 gen Rapid Bike Staintune looking for a dyno capable of handling it -Sebspeed 8th gen 1 8th -MooseMoose 5th gen Rapid Bike/MyBikeTunig Delkevic 1 5/6th -adkfinn 5 gen PC3 Black Widow yes dyno 1 5/6th -fly750 8th gen 1 8th -neo2122 6th gen OEM/PC3 Delkevic yes dyno 1 5/6th -wholepailofwater 5th gen OEM/TBD Staintune 1 5/6th *Background: Over the past year, VFRD member Duc2V4 and I have made an exhaustive [ouch!] search for a manufacturer/fabricator qualified and willing to produce a reasonably-priced, high quality "replica" of the Two Brothers Racing 5th gen header assembly. The TBR is the accepted standard in production VFR performance exhaust systems. After unproductive efforts with several fabricators, in August of this year we were referred to and contacted a gentleman named Wade, founder of an established southern California exhaust manufacturing firm. Wade expressed interest in taking on this project. Communications about and development of this project have continued with Wade since August and resulted in the construction of the fixture pictured above, along with a pre-production prototype header, a dyno testing schedule, and a commitment to build a production run of 15 units. *Dyno testing procedure: Testing will consist of a baseline dyno run of a 5th gen VFR with OEM 98/99 headers installed [See Note b below]. After the baseline run, the test VFR's 98/99 headers will be removed and replaced with the prototype performance header assembly. On the same day as the baseline run, a full dyno tune will be performed on the subject VFR with performance header installed. The dyno tune will be performed on the same dyno by the same dyno technician, with the same air filter, same fuel management system, and same midpipe/muffler. [Test subject VFR is described in 'Test bike'] *Some dimensions, features, and specifications of the header will be taken from the TBR. The new header will incorporate the following specifications from the original TBR header design: -header construction will be from 18 gauge 304 stainless steel tubing, [0.049"/1.24mm wall thickness] -header will have 38mm od primary tubes [1.5" od] -header will have 41.5mm od secondary tubes [1 5/8" od] -header will have 51mm od collector tubing [2" od] -header's rear primary tube junctions will be fastened by spring tension fittings -header's left front and left rear primary tubes will merge -header's right front and right rear primary tubes will merge -header will have no crossover of front or rear primary tubes -header's collector exit tube will have a 51mm od [See Note c below] -header's tubing will be mandrel bent *Some specifications will be changed from original TBR header design. To align with the VFR community's objectives and improve durability, the header will incorporate the following changes to the original TBR header design: -header's collector exit pipe will be modified to match position and angle of OEM collector exit pipe -midpipe/muffler/clamp to be supplied by customer [See Note c below] -midpipe/muffler to be fastened to header collector exit pipe by clamp [Clamp not supplied with header] -header will have two O2 sensor bosses at 2000-2009 OEM header's O2 sensor locations: one O2 sensor boss on secondary tube after left front/left rear primary merge, one O2 sensor boss on secondary tube after right front/right rear primary merge -right rear primary tube of all headers will be mandrel bent to provide 1/16" clearance from rear head cam chain tensioner when installed on 6th gen VFRs -header's stud nut tension flanges will be 1/4" thick stainless steel [See Note d below] -header's collars at head end of primary tubes will be reinforced and length adjusted for 1/4" head stud fixing flanges -header's internal flow surfaces at head end collar joints of primary tubes will be finished smooth/flush [See Note e below] *Wade's credentials: Wade designed and built exhausts for Kerker Exhaust Systems from 1980-1988. Since founding his own exhaust fabrication business in 1989, he has produced custom, prototype, and production exhaust systems and components for numerous individuals and manufacturers, including Two Brothers Racing. He builds a production aftermarket full exhaust system for a current non-Honda V4-powered motorcycle. Here are two of his current projects. Photos taken 12/27/2018 and 12/28/2018 : *Test bike: For initial testing, we will use this motorcycle [Or possibly our 6th gen - see Note b below]: 2001 California 5th gen with 60,000 miles K&N big mouth air filter [See Note f below] PC III USB, map dyno tuned in 2013 with OEM California ECU, no O2 sensors installed Dynojet O2 sensor resistor terminations installed on OEM O2 sensor leads OEM 49 state ECU now installed, PC III not retuned, no O2 sensors installed OEM 98/99 VFR headers ceramic coated with Staintune high mount slipon. Maintenance performed before dyno testing: New air filter, new Denso iridium IUH27#4 plugs, valve clearance adjustment, injectors professionally calibrated, starter valves synched, new thermostat, new silicon coolant hoses, new Engine Ice coolant, oil and filter changed w Mobil 1 0w-30 and Purolator PBL14610 filter *Notes: Note a - an 8th gen version of the performance header with 'widely spaced' front primaries is in the works for a production run to follow the initial production run of 5th/6th gen headers. Note b - If there is significantly greater interest in proving the prototype header on a 6th gen, we have a 6th gen standing by and can use it for the dyno baseline run and test/tuning instead of the 5th gen. For 6th gen test/tuning, we will use the same dyno testing procedure at the same test/tune facility as described for the initial 5th gen test/tune. The 6th gen available for testing currently has ceramic coated 98/99 headers installed with gutted OEM mufflers and a PCV. We would obtain open flowing aftermarket 6th gen slipon mufflers to optimize testing of the prototype header. Note c - Wade recommends keeping the the 51mm od collector exit pipe instead of reducing it to the OEM exit pipe's 49mm od for the following reasons: 1 - it is probable that reducing the collector diameter will have a [small] negative effect on top end performance 2 - Wade uses premanufactured tubing merges of very high quality. Reducing the collector diameter would mean that the collector merge exit diameter would be too large for the 49mm od exit pipe, and the labor required to adapt the two components would raise the cost. 3 - purchasers of a replica header who want to use aftermarket slipons can have the collector end of their slipon expanded to fit the 51mm od exit pipe by any competent exhaust/muffler shop. Two Brothers slipons and OEM mufflers will require exhaust wrap to function as a gasket in place of the OEM 'donut' gasket. 4 - the collector joint of all slipon midpipes we could think of except TBR are 2" od and slotted at the clamping end. Wade was concerned that a 2" od midpipe that has been slotted to clamp onto the OEM collector pipe is likely to tear at the base of the slots when expanded. IMPORTANT - when having a slipon's midpipe expanded to fit this performance header, make certain the muffler shop expands it gradually in two or more small steps. Wade recommends drilling a relief hole at the muffler side ends of the midpipe's slots to distribute stress and reduce the possibility of tearing. Wade tested the viability of expanded slotted 304 stainless steel 18 gauge 2" od tubing by slotting a piece of 2" tubing while I was at his facility. He then expanded the slotted end of the tube in two steps to fit over the 51mm od collector exit pipe with no tearing at the slots. Note d - Here is Wade's 1/4" thick stainless steel head stud nut tension flange: Here is the original TBR head stud nut tension flange [Note that flange is bent from tension]: Note e - Original TBR has rough, unfinished joints in the internal flow surfaces at head end collars of primary tubes Note f - See RVFR's June 8 2017 post on page 5 of vfrd thread '5th & 6th VFR 800 header build' for photos of standard vs big mouth K&N air filters. Both filters have K&N part number HA-8098 Note g - Significant improvement can be achieved over OEM gas flow through the exhaust port into the header primaries by using crush gaskets that do not intrude into the gas flow path when installed. The id of OEM VFR crush gaskets reduces to around 30.41mm when installed with header stud nuts torqued to spec. The exhaust port id is 32.45mm - that's a 2mm reduction in gas flow passage diameter. To solve this, we will be confirming Mohawk's recommendation to use GSXR750 crush gaskets between the performance header primaries and the VFR's head. Note h - Wade has expressed a modest willingness to build complete exhaust systems in high or low mount configurations for 5th gen VFRs. These full systems would have the same specs as the full systems that were the only configuration in which TBR sold the VFR headers - the TBR headers were only available with a matching midpipe and muffler/canister. Mufflers built by Wade would be available in metal or carbon fiber. We neglected to ask Wade which metals he uses for muffler/canisters or what a full system would cost, but soon will ask him to specify materials and pricing. We have not yet introduced the possibility of Wade building a 6th gen full system, but will ask him if he'd consider it.
  45. 9 points

    Version 1.0

    2700 downloads

    This is the same manual that was available here on VFRD. I noticed it was missing from the downloads section and wanted to replace it. Optimized the file size so that it is only 65 MB. Ran OCR text recognition to enable text searches on the entire book.
  46. 9 points
    Derek & I will be celebrating our 10th year riding with VFRD friends ! This time I’ll be riding my own little Honda. A wee bit ambitious for my first multi day tour but I’m stoked !! Thanks for setting SumSum up again Tony! See y’all soon !
  47. 9 points

    From the album: ETC

    April 2014
  48. 9 points
  49. 9 points
  50. 9 points
    I'm still hoping for an actual printed feature, but this is a close second. I made sure the excellent group here got a mention! http://www.superstreetbike.com/seb-seebachers-custom-streetfighter-1996-vfr750?src=SOC&dom=fb
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