Lee 2002

It is hard not to when you have a crowd like this watching your every move..... You would have thought I birthed a baby the way the crowd gathered when that thing was extracted. Great observations on Grum's part. There was a reason I clocked those stators the way I did. There is a lot of information about the 6th gen stator situation in that photo... and every 6th gen roasted stator photo I've ever seen.

I wish you well on your endeavor. I'm feeling lucky. Cageless and I must have got the last factory 2002 spec stators left in the world. I'm not sure I would go through all this to upgrade to a physically larger stator and flywheel if it were me. I would just rewind the OEM and ride on. I got 55,000 miles out of mine and it only gave up the ghost on a desperately hot ride across the wastelands of Nebraska. Cageless' stator (L), my stator (R)

Why? This is me replacing the stator on my 2002 with a couple of hand wrenches in the parking lot of a hotel in South Dakota last summer.

I just keep my insurance policies paid up. While I've never had to use them, they seem pretty foolproof.

If it has went missing, you'll know.

Yes that is the bolt that goes missing. The other half that you don't see <F-25> shows up on the shock mount diagram. It is an Acorn Nut (#13) that screws on to long-ass-bolt (#9) that comes through the frame and gets clamped by (#18). #14 is the sidestand pivot nut. Lock wire is the only reliable way I could get mine to stay put. Just cross drill the bolt and corner drill the nut. Both red and blue Loctite degraded over time from heat and I would lose the bolt. (twice until I drilled and lockwired) In this photo, mine is a hex head as I lost my bolt (third time including the original) 400 miles from home and a small town hardware store was my only option to get the right thread in the length I needed. Installed with borrowed tools, got home, drilled, wired, still there to this day.

Pg 1-13 of the service manual

You made the 600 mile trip from KC to Denver in July when the winds are from the South at 20 mph and the pavement temps are 135°F. Don't worry, you've got enough left on the right side to make it home. .... as long as you get it done before mid-October when the Arctic gales start dropping down. Then you'll be back on the same side of the tire again. This post is (unfortunately) not a joke.

[stepping into shithole] Man.... I know I'm going to regret sticking my toe in this shit hole...... RC51 - have a very similar flapper in their air box. It is interesting to note that I never saw a race-prepped RC51 with an active flapper (including Honda supported teams). However street-going RC51's sold by Mother Honda that were subject to EPA regulations did come with an active flapper. I don't think anyone has ever found the "smoking memo" signed by Soichiro, but the common consensus is that the flapper exists solely to satisfy an EPA noise regulation that are done at a certain RPM that is determined by an equivalent speed determined by gearing, or something like that. Many posters here and on the RC51 sites have modded the flapper and I don't recall anyone posting any evidence that the mod resulted in any repeatable changes in performance. It has been years since I've read any of these discussions, so I'm going off memory. Google "Motorcycle Flapper Mod" and you'll have a week's worth of reading on the subject across about 5 product lines and thirty motorcycle forums. I personally buy into the noise control thought (and my calibrated Mk 20 eardrum confirmed intake howl). Consider this.... The marketing teams would have "variable intake" on every piece of literature if it even resulted in 1 hp or 1 lb/ft benefit.... never saw a pamphlet that mentioned it. I've also never saw a dyno curve that showed any difference between before/after either. I thought this discussion ended at least fifteen years ago. Go figure? [stepping out of shithole/]

Gangsta'-slang way of saying convertible.

The Veypor <not Vapor> units had a spark sensor and a rear wheel sensor. They automatically calculated what gear you were in by the pulse ratio differential between the motor and wheel. A slipping clutch would confuse the unit --- other than that it never missed. I played with one for a while but never really used it long term. The programmable shift light was handy and the super accurate independent speedo was awesome. It could calculate real-time HP and torque during acceleration (using 3 axis G-sensors and user supplied weight values). (I found it more fun to see how high of braking forces I could generate) It was more accurate than seat-of-pants, but not good enough for publication in a magazine. With a bit of fiddling, over time, you could get pretty accurate real time MPG and range calculations. Fun to play with, but nothing I would spend money on.

It takes 5 minutes to test your stator. It should put out about 24 VAC at idle and about 60 VAC at 5,500 rpm. There should be no continuity to frame ground. My money is on the stator. I think you'll find your R/R is good. Much like Knute, don't as me how I know.

I think it's safe to say you'll never have a career as an aviation mechanic. Really, any kind of mechanic. Now I have to wonder why you even came here in the first place?

I've know of car wheels with more damage than that that were successfully repaired. But I don't know if that conveys to a motorcycle wheel. Is that a crack at the spoke root or just the paint lifting? I'll be interested to hear the outcome. As a side note that appears to be a lot of wheel weight.... but I know you're in CA so that isn't lead.... so maybe not.

I had the great pleasure of hosting Anik Mankar when he visited the USA from Mumbai, India. I was able to arrange a group ride, with him on my VFR and me on a Ninja I borrowed from my boss. That visit formed a friendship that endures to this day. I am envious of your opportunity to visit your friend at his home. VFRD -- making the World a smaller place.