nearfreezing

I assume you mean for the saddlebags? The hardware package is available new -- try Partzilla.

Make sure the slider pins for the caliper are well-lubricated. Also, make sure the pad bracket is lubricated at the contact points withe brake pads. And, finally, make sure the brake pad pins (the screw that goes through one end of each brake pad to hold them in the caliper) are smooth and allow the pads to slide without binding. I suspect the rear pads are binding. When you apply the rear brake they stay applied even as the caliper seal pulls the piston back. When you engage the rear brake again, the lever sinks to the handle because the caliper piston is now pushing out without any resistance. An update would be great!

I've decided on the OEM stator since experiences with aftermarket stators varies. The OEM stator lasts at least ~20,000 miles or so. The OEM 2002 stator is no longer available as it is superseded by the 2003-2009 stator, starting with a product update campaign when it was found that the 2002 charging system was undersized and would discharge the battery when both the high beams and radiator were running. The 2003-2009 stator is larger in diameter than the inner diameter of the 2002 flywheel, and so the flywheel must also be replaced with the updated 2003-2009 flywheel. Here's a link to the replacement process: After looking into it a bit more closely, it seems the flywheel puller is essentially a 20mm x 1.5 right-handed threaded bolt, and I've purchased the Motion Pro Flywheel Puller M20x1.5 r.h. external thread (Motion Pro p/n 08-0086). Hopefully this works. Honda also makes two forms of this tool. One is a 4-arm cross-shape with different threads at each arm (Honda p/n 07733-0020001, MSRP ~$40) -- this does not seem to be available in the US but can be purchased from Japan. The other, which is available in the US, is a bolt attached to a T-handle (Honda p/n 07933-3950000 Puller Dynamo, ~$21) -- this seems to be potentially cumbersome or dangerous since it will require hammering on the skinny T-handle bars. The flywheel holder is essentially a strap wrench with a metal band (Honda p/n 07725-004000) that has an MSRP of $297.

Seems the stator after 24k has finally shed the ghost. The charging voltage at idle drops from 13.1V to the low 12s with either the high beams or radiator on. Last I checked a year or so ago the idle voltage was 14.2V. Since this is a 2002, the flywheel must be replaced with the 2003+ 6th gen flywheel and the updated 2003+ stator, along with the stator-to-cover screws and cover gastket. This is sold as a kit for $287 on partzilla but is on backorder without an eta. I decided to buy the stator, gasket, and screws separately for $250 from partzilla plus a used 2009 flywheel for $21 off e-bay for a total of $271. I'm trying to figure out how to remove the flywheel. I will use a strap wrench to hold the flywheel still while breaking the bolt. But then what's the best way to pull the flywheel? The flywheel puller bolts available on-line are 20mm x 1.5mm right-hand threaded but all the sites say these are for the 5th gen. None lists a flywheel puller for the 6th gen. Anybody know the specs to use? Alternately, has anybody used a three-arm puller? If so, which one? Looking forward to getting back on the road, thanks for any advice!

When replacing the fluid, it's a good chance to lubricate the tip of the master cylinder piston, where the brake lever makes contact with it. I used silicone brake caliper grease per the shop manual, and the lever slides much more smoothly now.

This is a great thread, very helpful for when my '02 has an extra-crispy stator. Does anybody know if there's a way to tell if the upgraded stator/rotor have been installed in a 2002 without removing the stator cover and measuring the flywheel diameter?

Great thread! Thanks for posting the how-to, came in handy when trying to figure out the rear hydraulics. This process took about 3 hours. If I had to do it again, I could do it in 1. Mechanically it's not tremendously challenging, the hardest part is accessing the center bleed screw on the rear caliper. Other notes: -Fancy expensive metal Mityvac was useless for this job. It pulled in far too much air through the threads of the bleed screw and I had to finish bleeding air with a gravity bleed or engaging the brake lever/pedal. A snugly fitting hose on the bleed screw and a waste bottle were all that were necessary. -My 2002 non-ABS does not have a bleed screw on the rear PCV. -Both the clutch and front brake master cylinders are seeping fluid post-bleed, because the diaphragms are a one-time use only item. Will replace them ASAP. -I used a $1 condiment squeeze bottle from Sprawlmart (kitchen section) to add brake fluid to the master cylinders--much less messy than trying to pour directly from the bottle. -Took about 700mL of fluid. If I did it again, I could probably do it with <400mL. -Did my best to be careful, but brake fluid still got everywhere. Next time I'd use more protection for the ground and the motorcycle. I wrapped a rag around the front master cylinder to catch any spills. Also, I wiped up spills/splashes immediately with a wet rag. After the bleeding was done, I double checked all the areas vulnerable to splashes for brake fluid, then washed down parts of the motorcycle that were (potentially) exposed to brake fluid. Not as bad of a job as I thought.

Great write-up... shows there are a couple ways to remove the chain. Will be using this to help me replace the chain on my '02.