nearfreezing

I assume you mean for the saddlebags? The hardware package is available new -- try Partzilla.

Make sure the slider pins for the caliper are well-lubricated. Also, make sure the pad bracket is lubricated at the contact points withe brake pads. And, finally, make sure the brake pad pins (the screw that goes through one end of each brake pad to hold them in the caliper) are smooth and allow the pads to slide without binding. I suspect the rear pads are binding. When you apply the rear brake they stay applied even as the caliper seal pulls the piston back. When you engage the rear brake again, the lever sinks to the handle because the caliper piston is now pushing out without any resistance. An update would be great!

I've decided on the OEM stator since experiences with aftermarket stators varies. The OEM stator lasts at least ~20,000 miles or so. The OEM 2002 stator is no longer available as it is superseded by the 2003-2009 stator, starting with a product update campaign when it was found that the 2002 charging system was undersized and would discharge the battery when both the high beams and radiator were running. The 2003-2009 stator is larger in diameter than the inner diameter of the 2002 flywheel, and so the flywheel must also be replaced with the updated 2003-2009 flywheel. Here's a link to the replacement process: After looking into it a bit more closely, it seems the flywheel puller is essentially a 20mm x 1.5 right-handed threaded bolt, and I've purchased the Motion Pro Flywheel Puller M20x1.5 r.h. external thread (Motion Pro p/n 08-0086). Hopefully this works. Honda also makes two forms of this tool. One is a 4-arm cross-shape with different threads at each arm (Honda p/n 07733-0020001, MSRP ~$40) -- this does not seem to be available in the US but can be purchased from Japan. The other, which is available in the US, is a bolt attached to a T-handle (Honda p/n 07933-3950000 Puller Dynamo, ~$21) -- this seems to be potentially cumbersome or dangerous since it will require hammering on the skinny T-handle bars. The flywheel holder is essentially a strap wrench with a metal band (Honda p/n 07725-004000) that has an MSRP of $297.

Seems the stator after 24k has finally shed the ghost. The charging voltage at idle drops from 13.1V to the low 12s with either the high beams or radiator on. Last I checked a year or so ago the idle voltage was 14.2V. Since this is a 2002, the flywheel must be replaced with the 2003+ 6th gen flywheel and the updated 2003+ stator, along with the stator-to-cover screws and cover gastket. This is sold as a kit for $287 on partzilla but is on backorder without an eta. I decided to buy the stator, gasket, and screws separately for $250 from partzilla plus a used 2009 flywheel for $21 off e-bay for a total of $271. I'm trying to figure out how to remove the flywheel. I will use a strap wrench to hold the flywheel still while breaking the bolt. But then what's the best way to pull the flywheel? The flywheel puller bolts available on-line are 20mm x 1.5mm right-hand threaded but all the sites say these are for the 5th gen. None lists a flywheel puller for the 6th gen. Anybody know the specs to use? Alternately, has anybody used a three-arm puller? If so, which one? Looking forward to getting back on the road, thanks for any advice!

http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/29118-OEM-saddlebag-spacers 08L41-MCW80012 - Right rubber spacer08L41-MCW80013 - Left rubber spacer However, neither RonAyers nor Revzilla has these parts listed in their catalog.

I suspect that after riding with the engine spinning at 8-10krpm, idle will feel very smooth due to perception, not because the motorcycle is running any differently. As far as the starter hesitation goes, my '02 is having the same issue. I'm going to check the starter circuit, I suspect there's corrosion which causes the voltage to dip below what's needed to keep the starter spinning.

Assuming the run-out and thickness are within specification and the rotor does not have any grooves, used is fine. After all, the other rotor on your motorcycle is "used" and works fine. How did you determine the rotor is bent? Did you measure run-out?

That's unbelievably cheap... $19.20 for 4 pads. Still, there's not even a brand listed, and the brakes are probably the last place to take risks. The EBC HH will set you back about $60, shipped from Amazon but they're definitely worth the $41 premium.

I believe spec on the front pads is min 2.0mm, those seem like they're getting there but are ok for now. You can consider OEM (about $120 for both front sets/rear) or the popular EBC HH (about $100 for both front sets/rear). You don't have to remove the rotor to reinstall the caliper. Just push back the pad to force the pistons back into the caliper (might want to clean the pistons with brake cleaner first--no need to disassemble), then the caliper/pads will slip onto the rotor the same way you removed it. You will probably want to separate the two halves of the caliper to lubricate the slider pin. Great point, also should lubricate the tip of the brake lever that pushes on the master cylinder piston.

You don't have to remove the front wheel to work on the brakes. I think the calipers are held on by two or three bolts. If you haven't replaced the pads yet, they're probably due. Definitely inspect them as wearing them down to the backing plate and having to replace the rotors is very expensive. You'll probably want to clean out the calipers well with brake cleaner, especially around the seals. Also, binding can be caused by dry caliper slides, especially if the brakes have never been serviced. The slides should be lubricated with silicone brake lubricant. Changing the clutch fluid is easy, but takes patience so you don't get fluid everywhere. The brake fluid is a bit more challenging, but manageable. I didn't find the Mitvac vacuum helpful at all, really all you need is a tube that fits over the caliper bleed screw and a waste container. There's a good write-up on here somewhere.

Thanks for the fantastic review, definitely the most thorough and insightful I've read so far. Some thoughts... 1. Interesting to note the 8th gen is still snatchy at low speeds. I thought Honda would have sorted that out by now. The off-idle snatch on my 6th gen definitely make riding in tight NYC streets more exciting. Would be interesting if you could try an experiment: at a stop see if you can rev the engine to a steady 3000RPM and then try to raise it to a steady 4000RPM without overshooting. You can't do it easily on a 6th gen. I doubt the snatchiness is a feature that you need to get used to after riding your properly jetted "antique" as much as it's a lingering problem with FI. 2. Looks like Honda did some cost cutting with the incandescent turn signals/license plate light. Easily fixed with aftermarket bulbs. That LED headlight is pretty trick but if it ever fails or gets damaged, it's a $1000+ part. 3. I wonder if Honda upgraded the charging system on the 8th gen or if the same problems are going to happen. I don't think anybody's posted about the charging system yet. 4. I zip-tied the E-ZPass to the front fairing stay inside the nose of the VFR to tuck it away. The 8th gen might have a similar spot. 5. Very encouraging to hear the 8th gen will hold its line on the offramp moghuls.

This is pretty important... the connectors are often the weak spots on the charging system. Make sure to clean all the connectors with contact cleaner and consider applying Ox-Gard or similar to them. You can pick up some additional voltage this way.

Unobtanium, apparently, since the headlight unit alone costs >$1000.

I think David Silver Spares US carries a rebuild kit, but it just consists of seals, might not be cheaper than buying from Partzilla.

Welcome! What issue did the VFR have that you fixed?