Jump to content


Member Contributer
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

34 Excellent

About HughJebolzak

  • Rank
    Factory Team Rider
  • Birthday 09/20/1957

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ontario, Canada
  • In My Garage:
    '99 VFR800i, '04 Suzuki SV650N, '10 Mazda MX-5 GT

Recent Profile Visitors

2051 profile views
  1. I've got a Joe Rocket mesh jacket with perforated leather sleeves and shoulders that's about 16 years old now. It's great. I doubt they still make this one.
  2. That shot was taken on the Dragon a couple of years ago and no, it hasn't been lowered. Just fully loaded and cornering hard. The back end skipped out on me during that run. It's got progressive springs and roll bars and they can spin without much notice once they loose grip with that set-up. It was a chilly day so the tires would have less than optimal grip as well.
  3. I agree about the full size side panniers turning a svelte bike into a bit of a fat ass but on a long road trip it's worth the width. I only put the wing rack on for a long trip. Otherwise I use a top case only bracket or a back pack.
  4. Wingrack II on a week long ride.
  5. I happen to have a Givi Wingrack II for sidecases available if you're interested.
  6. Mobil 1 M1-110. Same filter for my VFR, Civic and Ridgeline believe it or not. 800cc, 1800cc and 3500cc engines. I buy a few when they go on sale
  7. I also had a pulsating brake issue until recently. It would present itself not while braking at speed but only when almost stopped. The last few rotations of the wheel pretty much. Then it was an almost on or off sensation. Very unsettling. New EBC x-series rotors and HH sintered pads for the front would have cost me $740.00 I tried the method shown by ferchja and it worked pretty damn well. Good enough to have saved me the afore mentioned $740.00 😀
  8. Hi HughJebolzak, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  9. I agree... My experience is that Honda can be trusted... if they recommend in writing a 8K oil interval then it will meet and exceed your mileage expectations because I believe after talking with the engineers at Honda that they do thoroughly test the oil... in fact it doesn't matter to your engines longevity if you run Dino or Synthetic... or even 50 40 or 30 weight.... no one is wearing out their engine... but it does matter in the amount of rear wheel HP is wasted in unnecessary oil drag... between a 30wt and 40wt is 2 to 3 HP in unnecessary oil drag... between a 30 and 50 is 4 to 6 HP in unnecessary oil drag... choosing the freest flowing viscosity of 30 as prescribed by the official Honda manual over a 40 50 is smarter because it will: 1)increase HP at the rear wheel 2)quicken the throttle response coming out of the corners... 3)decrease over all operating temps... 4)increase the oil flow at the critical bearings... I admittedly popped in on the last page of this discussion, but I'm under the impression that the above weight oil is not good for wet clutch bike engines. "Energy conserving" circle = not for bikes I've always read. Or should I be quiet and read the whole thread?
  10. HughJebolzak

    130803 002

    Drove the Cabot Trail two summers ago in my Miata. Awesome road. Did it counterclockwise, then clockwise the next day. I highly recommend doing both directions if you are there anyways. Two very different experiences.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.