HughJebolzak

I will. I'll get some sticky rope. Up until my original post, I was under the impression that stuff was a last resort. Sounds like it's the way to go here. Simplest, least expensive and recommended.

Thanks for the offer gr8vfr. It's about a 20 hour ride to your place for me so I'm going to pass. As can be seen, the puncture is quite small and I'm currently only loosing about 0.5psi per day. The Canadian dime used for scale is the same size as an American dime. The value however is unfortunately the same as an American 7.5 cent piece 😞 I'm just living with it for now but I'm sure I should be removing it and plugging the hole. A plug will be much larger than the existing hole but I guess that would make for a good seal.

This photo was taken half way through a road trip my son and I went on and was our first road trip together. Through the mountains of West Virginia and North Carolina to the Dragon and back again. Awesome roads as many here know. My son was on a Suzuki SV650 that I gave him last year, on which I have done this trip many times. He crashed 4 hours into the seven day 2800 km (1740 mile) ride. Low sided because of some sand/gravel leading into a curving stop, and he was looking at the scenery instead of the pavement. The bike slid along the road for 65 feet until it met with the grass at the road side. Damaged the bike of course and banged himself up pretty well in the process, but we continued on and had an excellent adventure.

I've heard that it's not advisable to ride on a plugged motorcycle tire if the plug is the twisted rope type applied from the outside. If you must use that style in an emergency, the tire should be replaced as soon as possible. The mushroom type from the inside is what I was hoping the shop would do for me.

I just got back from a 2800 km ride through the Appalachians during which I picked up a nail or similar. It's in the centre of the tire, about the diameter of a bicycle spoke. It wasn't leaking until I messed with it now the tire is loosing about one psi per day. The tire was new at the beginning of the trip (Bridgestone T-31) and the puncture happened half way through a seven day ride. I took it to my local bike shop and the mechanic said that he no longer repairs tires and that no one will anymore. Liability issues. Repair it myself or buy a new tire?

I purchased what I think are the proper replacement lamps for my bike. 7440 are single filament rear signal lamps 7443 are dual filament running/brake lamps The 7440 lamps will not fit in the signal lamp sockets, but the 7443 lamps will (slightly different glass bases). So I pretty much have to keep the dual filament lamps in the rear signal sockets as I found them. I did some searching and found an older thread here suggesting to folks that this is a good little trick to know. Anyway...back to original problem. The right signal self cancelling as soon as its activated. It's still doing that when the bike is cold but stops after about five or ten minutes on the road.

Rick's Motorsports Electrics They've been in the business for years and get good reviews from what I've seen.

I noticed that and was concerned about it as well. That's the way it came from the manufacturer. The OEM unit had a small metal clamp holding the wires in place. I did a bit of a google search on the topic and it seems that others have had the same concerns. The zip ties on this particular brand of stator are meant to stay in place so I've read. It's all put back together now. I suppose I could take it all apart and remove the zip ties.

Ha. I would have thought it was toast. Did a resistance test and all was good. 0.5 Ohms between phases and infinity phase to ground. I'm guessing it's original, so 20 years old and the R/R is likely 10 or so. Maybe I'll keep it as a "road trip emergency" spare. And to answer Grum's size question, same diameter.

Seriously? I thought it looked fairly baked. I will check with a multimeter and post the numbers tonight.

Does anyone have any experience with a Rick's 10_125H R/R or opinion? I don't think I can easily get my hands on an FH020aa or SH847AA here. In the process of replacing the stator (which I bought a while back) Old v.s. new photos;

Not yet, I'm in the middle of an oil change / stator replacement. I'll get to the lamps and report back.

Well...all four of the lamps in the tail section are dual filament 21w/5w. When I took out the tail/brake lamp with the burned out 5w filament and swapped it with the lamp that was in the turn signal socket, all worked as per spec. The burned out 5w filament was then in the signal lamp socket. The previous owner was a bike mechanic. Perhaps this was done on purpose in order to make "on the road" lamp swap-outs easy. It appears as if the signal lamp sockets have two wires going to them and the brake/tail lamp sockets have three. Good thinking if this was the plan.

Being in Canada, the easiest R/R to get my hands on would be a Rick's Motorsports Electrics 10_125H hotshot R/R. Mosfet. Why would I ditch the VFRness?