HughJebolzak

Similar experience on the BRP about ten years ago riding with a couple of friends. It was just overcast in the lowlands but climbing up to the Parkway entrance we hit a wall of fog. We were basically in the clouds. You could barely see the hand in front of your face. We did ride a bit but got off asap at the next exit. Very surreal and dangerous.

Use a thin rag. There is not a whole lot of slack to be taken up. Like I said, I often have to knock the cup off with a few light taps of a hammer or pliers whilst the filter is still on the engine threads. Just use this to loosen the filter enough to free it up (or tighten it to spec). I've been using this little trick on all of my engine oil filters for some time now. Works great.

I have an oil filter strap wrench with works in a pinch. Also have the cup types, which I found didn't grip the filter body well enough. My son worked in a lube shop for a while and his tip was to put a rag in the cup prior, and it grips like crazy then. Sometimes have to get it off the filter with a few taps of a hammer along the edge. Hand tight has always worked well for me. Wrench only for loosening. Lube the o-ring and have a clean mating surface as mentioned. I also use the same filter for my VFR as I do with my Civic and Ridgeline. Mobil One M1-110

The color of the bike, your jacket and helmet matches your legs. Very well thought out.

I've got a Joe Rocket mesh jacket with perforated leather sleeves and shoulders that's about 16 years old now. It's great. I doubt they still make this one.

That shot was taken on the Dragon a couple of years ago and no, it hasn't been lowered. Just fully loaded and cornering hard. The back end skipped out on me during that run. It's got progressive springs and roll bars and they can spin without much notice once they loose grip with that set-up. It was a chilly day so the tires would have less than optimal grip as well.

+1 on the MX-5. Love mine!

I agree about the full size side panniers turning a svelte bike into a bit of a fat ass but on a long road trip it's worth the width. I only put the wing rack on for a long trip. Otherwise I use a top case only bracket or a back pack.

Wingrack II on a week long ride.

I happen to have a Givi Wingrack II for sidecases available if you're interested.

Mobil 1 M1-110. Same filter for my VFR, Civic and Ridgeline believe it or not. 800cc, 1800cc and 3500cc engines. I buy a few when they go on sale

I also had a pulsating brake issue until recently. It would present itself not while braking at speed but only when almost stopped. The last few rotations of the wheel pretty much. Then it was an almost on or off sensation. Very unsettling. New EBC x-series rotors and HH sintered pads for the front would have cost me $740.00 I tried the method shown by ferchja and it worked pretty damn well. Good enough to have saved me the afore mentioned $740.00 😀

Hi HughJebolzak, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

I agree... My experience is that Honda can be trusted... if they recommend in writing a 8K oil interval then it will meet and exceed your mileage expectations because I believe after talking with the engineers at Honda that they do thoroughly test the oil... in fact it doesn't matter to your engines longevity if you run Dino or Synthetic... or even 50 40 or 30 weight.... no one is wearing out their engine... but it does matter in the amount of rear wheel HP is wasted in unnecessary oil drag... between a 30wt and 40wt is 2 to 3 HP in unnecessary oil drag... between a 30 and 50 is 4 to 6 HP in unnecessary oil drag... choosing the freest flowing viscosity of 30 as prescribed by the official Honda manual over a 40 50 is smarter because it will: 1)increase HP at the rear wheel 2)quicken the throttle response coming out of the corners... 3)decrease over all operating temps... 4)increase the oil flow at the critical bearings... I admittedly popped in on the last page of this discussion, but I'm under the impression that the above weight oil is not good for wet clutch bike engines. "Energy conserving" circle = not for bikes I've always read. Or should I be quiet and read the whole thread?