HughJebolzak

Two side pieces only. Nice condition. A little dusty in the photo. $50

Very good condition. No tabs missing. Some light scuffs from usage (minimal). $80

Ah....clutch switch. Should have guessed. Thanks.

For some reason I cannot get the bike to crank while in gear and clutch pulled in. Will start in neutral with the kick stand down or up. I'm sure this is an easy fix but a quick search has come up with nothing. Cheers.

Thanks folks

Interesting. Like I mentioned, I'm guessing this jug I have is about 8 years old (the blue stuff). It still had the foil seal on it. It was definitely better than what was in the engine so I used it. I didn't have any replacement crush washers on hand so reused the old one and now have a slight leak. Anyone know what the part number is for those little washers? Or what size they might be and where one could get replacements?

Good info. I was referring to something I found about shelf life being even greater for a jug of straight antifreeze compared to a 50/50 premix. I would only put 50/50 in the engine.

They look far better without the condom. My current mirrors are on extender blocks and frankly I never liked the look of the condom/extender block look. I'll have to get some OEM size mounting bolts as well.

I did some research and everything I read pointed to no definite expiration time period. One thing I did read stated that pure antifreeze would last longer than 50/50 premix. The existing coolant has been in the bike for at least 5 or 6 years so I'm way overdue. I'll use this stuff and change it out at the end of the season to be safe.

Positive. No "use before" warning or obvious manufacture date. There is a code on it but I'm not sure you could decipher a date from it. 1V181024 13:29 Possibly 29th week of 2013? Which would make it 8 years old and that is quite possible.

There is no manufacturing date nor is there a warning not to use the product if it's over 3 years old. Is this fairly recent because I would think this stuff is 6 or 8 years old. Never opened.

I'm doing my first coolant service since I got the bike. I've got a jug of Honda OEM all season coolant left over from past Civic / Ridgeline ownerships. Type 2, 50/50 premix, ethylene glycol base and de-mineralized water. 131 C boiling point I assume this stuff should work fine?

The part number shown in your photo is the same part number I mentioned earlier. I misunderstood adkfinn when he wrote EMGO 00-01. I thought he was referring to a part number. It was the EMGO mirror(s) for the 00-01 VFR he meant, which are indeed part numbers 20-37341 and 20-37342. All clear now. I ordered a pair and I may just make the rubber gaskets. Doesn't look like they are available in Canada other than from a Honda dealer. Thanks for the help folks.

I would prefer the no condom look. As long as the mounting holes/system is the same, I will go with EMGO. The ones I see on line here (Canada) are part number 20-37341 and 20-37342. Not 00-01 like you mention adkfinn. My OEM ones are on extender blocks so the original mounting gasket is long gone. I could always make one if needed I suppose.

I bent the right mirror on my '99 and I think it's buggered. I'm looking at Emgo replacement mirrors but can only find them for the 2000 and 2001 5th gen. Are they the same or is there some difference between the '98 & '99 5th gen mirror compared to the '00 & '01 mirrors? Thanks.

If you look at the stator photo on their site you can clearly see a coupe of zip ties holding the wiring in place.

Another great road is the Back of the Dragon. Runs from Tazewell Virginia to Marion Virginia. The road runs up and down 3 mountain ridges, so some great elevation changes and hairpins. 32 miles in all with over 300 curves. https://www.backofthedragon.com/ Great route to take when on the way to Deal's Gap from the north. I happened upon it by chance on my first run to the Dragon. I make sure I ride it both ways every trip down there.

I installed one of Ricks about a year ago. I posted some photos and there were some (a) comments made about the fact that there were zip ties used to hold the wire bundle together and the person commenting stated that they would never put something in their engine that had zip ties on it. It made me somewhat concerned, but my engine has not exploded so far. I assume Ricks knows what they are doing, but it was a valid concern.

I've ridden the Dragon about 18 times now. My first experience was on a Suzuki SV650N with a couple of riding mates who were also on their first date with the Dragon. It rained hard on the way there, so much so that we had to pull over, fully bummed out, as this was the goal of our 7 day quest. After it let up, we had about a 20 to 30 minute ride to reach the start point on the North Carolina end. The sun suddenly came out and the clouds were gone. By the time we got there at about 11:00am the pavement was dry and there was not a soul around. No riders, no cops...no one. We had the entire Dragon to ourselves! We rode that bitch as hard as we could both ways. It was the best ride I've ever had and will likely never happen again. It was awesome to say the least.

Similar experience on the BRP about ten years ago riding with a couple of friends. It was just overcast in the lowlands but climbing up to the Parkway entrance we hit a wall of fog. We were basically in the clouds. You could barely see the hand in front of your face. We did ride a bit but got off asap at the next exit. Very surreal and dangerous.

Use a thin rag. There is not a whole lot of slack to be taken up. Like I said, I often have to knock the cup off with a few light taps of a hammer or pliers whilst the filter is still on the engine threads. Just use this to loosen the filter enough to free it up (or tighten it to spec). I've been using this little trick on all of my engine oil filters for some time now. Works great.

I have an oil filter strap wrench with works in a pinch. Also have the cup types, which I found didn't grip the filter body well enough. My son worked in a lube shop for a while and his tip was to put a rag in the cup prior, and it grips like crazy then. Sometimes have to get it off the filter with a few taps of a hammer along the edge. Hand tight has always worked well for me. Wrench only for loosening. Lube the o-ring and have a clean mating surface as mentioned. I also use the same filter for my VFR as I do with my Civic and Ridgeline. Mobil One M1-110

The color of the bike, your jacket and helmet matches your legs. Very well thought out.

I've got a Joe Rocket mesh jacket with perforated leather sleeves and shoulders that's about 16 years old now. It's great. I doubt they still make this one.

That shot was taken on the Dragon a couple of years ago and no, it hasn't been lowered. Just fully loaded and cornering hard. The back end skipped out on me during that run. It's got progressive springs and roll bars and they can spin without much notice once they loose grip with that set-up. It was a chilly day so the tires would have less than optimal grip as well.