DannoXYZ

Note that "oem/factory" and "professional" are not necessarily same thing. Factory specs are held to budget-limit and I always think it can be improved (look at R/R wiring), Even for something as simple as temporary fuel-pump jumper wire for troubleshooting, I'll use: - pre-tinned silicone wire - tinned connectors - crrimped - soldered - adhesive heat-shrink wrapped It's done this way in pro-motorsports, military, and aerospace applications for performance, durability and reliability. This is wiring manual I use for everything. I prefer

Most "factory" option would be to modify Brembo switch to be as similar to stock as possible: 1. So chop off Brembo pigtail, leaving 7-10mm of wire close to switch. 2. Solder on male spade connectors 3. Build an epoxy base to hold spades at proper distance, looks to be about 15mm apart 4. Connect factory harness connector.

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Why not just chop off bullet-connectors and install matching connectors that’ll fit into VFR harness?

Important thing is to measure actual vacuum going into FPR along with actual fuel-pressure in rail. Vacuum is used to adjust fuel-pressure dynamically. If you don't have accurate vacuum or bad FPR, fuel-pressure will be too high at idle and too low under load. No way to determine that without measuring actual vacuum levels and resultant fuel-pressure in rail.

Manual will show you how to jump diagnostic port to have dash flash error codes (like morse code). This will flag systems that are malfunctioning and require closer examination and measurements.

Actually, you may also have fuel-pump related issues. There’s test in manual for fuel-pump flow rate and pressure. Also FPR and vacuum hose. Measure fuel-pressure in rail while engine’s running with vacuum hose connected and disconnected.

Well, many, many problems can cause those running issues with least likely to be injectors. I use these guys to do cleaning. Inexpensive and fast turnaround https://www.mrinjector.us/ You get before and after cleaning flow-test report to see what difference is. I build and upgrade lots of turbo engines, mostly Toyota and Porsches. I’ll grab big bag full of injectors from junkyard cars and send in batches of 6 or 8 to get tested (cleaning is just bonus). When they come back, I toss highest and lowest flowing injectors and keep 4 or 6 closest matching ones. They’re usually not more t

What makes you think your fuel injectors needs to be replaced? What is bike doing that’s not normal? Fueling issues can be caused by: - power issues going to injector, cracked harness, shorted wires, corrosion on terminals - sensor issues: calibration on temp-sensors, adjustments on TPS - vacuum leaks , really common issue on EFI bikes, messes up carbies too - fuel-pump: not getting sufficient power due to bad/corroded wiring, or bad pump not delivering sufficient volume and pressure - clogged fuel-lines - clogged fuel-filter What

RZ350/Banshee swap... ... with turbo

You can also attach umbrella to bike...

Metals develop surface oxide layer due to our atmosphere. Aluminium surface turns into aluminium-oxide. Which is anodizing and this seals surface from further oxidation. Steel gets a surface coating of ferrous-oxide which doesn’t have any desirable properties. Underneath surface layer, there’s actually an ion-exchange between ferrous-oxide and ferric-oxide which continues cycle. That’s how rust can continue to grow underneath paint and continues to creep along. And why it’s so difficult to eliminate. You can’t just cover it up because it carries along its own oxygen suppl

By “pop”, did you actually hear a POP! sound? Yup, most likely dead battery (should be 13.8v freshly off charger). Dead batteries don’t hold charge, regardless of how long they’re on charger. Imagine trying to fill water bucket with giant hole in bottom. Verify by jumpstarting from auto battery (car off). Bike starts just fine?

Hey, thanks for clarification! I just found the VFR800 diagram. It's such clever design that BAS, similar to kickstand and neutral-safety switches . 🙂 Now this is binary thing right? If BAS was at fault or its wiring, bike wouldn't run at all? I had an issue with BAS on my CBR600RR, where it was sticking internally at an angle. So it would never ground output and bike wouldn't start. Every couple years in cold winter, I'd have to take it off and shake it around a bit to get innards aligned properly and then bike would start properly.