Good! Now it's onto real troubleshooting. Key ON:
1. start/stop switch, measure voltage on wht/blk input wire, volts = ???
2. start/stop= RUN, measure voltage at output wire of start/stop switch, volts = ???
3. engine-stop relay, measure voltage at trigger blk wire, volts = ???
4. engine-stop relay, measure resistance between trigger-gnd red/org and chassis-ground, ohms = ???
5. engine-stop relay, measure voltage at power-input blu/pnk wire, volts = ???
6. engine-stop relay, measure voltage at power-output blk/wht wire, volts = ???
7. fuel-cut relay, measure voltage at both blk/wht trigger and power-input wires, volts X2 = ???
8. fuel-cut relay, measure resistance between trigger-gnd brn/blk wire, start/stop OFF then RUN, ohms = ??? for 4-seconds?
9. fuel-cut relay, measure voltage at power-output brn wire, start/stop OFF then RUN, volts = ??? for 4-seconds?
10. fuel pump, measure voltage at power-input brn wire, start/stop OFF then RUN, volts = ??? for 4-seconds?
11. injectors, measure voltage at each injector-connector, volts X8 = ???
12. ignition-coils, measure voltage at each igntion-coil connector, volts X8 = ???
Somewhere along path of power-flow, you've got corroded or broken wire somewhere that's stopping start-up process.
AGAIN, you need to track down and actually fix problems with wiring, NOT do hillbilly "bypasses" that appear to work, but really doesn't solve anything. Cause & effect are different. "Effect" of fuel-pump not turning on is caused by wiring problem. This wiring fault is why it blows 20a FI fuse in fusebox. It's not just fuel-pump, it powers ENTIRE EFI system:
- engine-stop relay
- fuel-cut relay
- fuel-pump
- injectors
- ignition-coils
- intake solenoid valves
- exhaust solenoid valves
- ECU, and therefore, all sensors
- IAT
- TPS
- oxygen-sensor #1
- oxygen-sensor #2
- baro sensor
- MAP sensor
- cam-pulse generator
- ignition-pulse generator
- HISS system
You'd have to run new bypass wires to ALL of these components as well if 20a FI fuse is not connected and sending power properly. Fix actual problem and effects of not running will go away! Again, this is 5-minute fix with multimeter to track down wiring-short so 20a FI fuse stops blowing. Then EFI system will work properly. Or less than 5-min in many cases.
BTW - anyone notice error in manual where red & red/wht labels on power wires from battery/solenoid gets switched on way to fusebox???