DannoXYZ

Looks like you found problem. Trigger wire to injector is getting grounded outside of ECU. So with just key ON and power to injector harness, that unintentional ground will fire injector.

Lots of theories came up over years to explain cam issues. Bottom line was cam-housing wasn't line-bored with caps machines separately. This caused alignment issues and bearing-clearances that were way too large. Case-hardening cams would help, more of solving symptoms than fixing cause, unlike like KTM's really soft cams. Due to production variations, you may have ended up with one having good alignment and tight clearances. Plastiguage all cam bearing journals to know for sure. There's also external oil-feed kits you can install for improves lubrication. Only VFs getting properly line-bored cam-housings was '86 VF500F and VF1000R.

Make sure you check it over for chocolate cams before even starting. Not worth effort if engine's dead.

Good! Now it's onto real troubleshooting. Key ON: 1. start/stop switch, measure voltage on wht/blk input wire, volts = ??? 2. start/stop= RUN, measure voltage at output wire of start/stop switch, volts = ??? 3. engine-stop relay, measure voltage at trigger blk wire, volts = ??? 4. engine-stop relay, measure resistance between trigger-gnd red/org and chassis-ground, ohms = ??? 5. engine-stop relay, measure voltage at power-input blu/pnk wire, volts = ??? 6. engine-stop relay, measure voltage at power-output blk/wht wire, volts = ??? 7. fuel-cut relay, measure voltage at both blk/wht trigger and power-input wires, volts X2 = ??? 8. fuel-cut relay, measure resistance between trigger-gnd brn/blk wire, start/stop OFF then RUN, ohms = ??? for 4-seconds? 9. fuel-cut relay, measure voltage at power-output brn wire, start/stop OFF then RUN, volts = ??? for 4-seconds? 10. fuel pump, measure voltage at power-input brn wire, start/stop OFF then RUN, volts = ??? for 4-seconds? 11. injectors, measure voltage at each injector-connector, volts X8 = ??? 12. ignition-coils, measure voltage at each igntion-coil connector, volts X8 = ??? Somewhere along path of power-flow, you've got corroded or broken wire somewhere that's stopping start-up process. AGAIN, you need to track down and actually fix problems with wiring, NOT do hillbilly "bypasses" that appear to work, but really doesn't solve anything. Cause & effect are different. "Effect" of fuel-pump not turning on is caused by wiring problem. This wiring fault is why it blows 20a FI fuse in fusebox. It's not just fuel-pump, it powers ENTIRE EFI system: - engine-stop relay - fuel-cut relay - fuel-pump - injectors - ignition-coils - intake solenoid valves - exhaust solenoid valves - ECU, and therefore, all sensors - IAT - TPS - oxygen-sensor #1 - oxygen-sensor #2 - baro sensor - MAP sensor - cam-pulse generator - ignition-pulse generator - HISS system You'd have to run new bypass wires to ALL of these components as well if 20a FI fuse is not connected and sending power properly. Fix actual problem and effects of not running will go away! Again, this is 5-minute fix with multimeter to track down wiring-short so 20a FI fuse stops blowing. Then EFI system will work properly. Or less than 5-min in many cases. BTW - anyone notice error in manual where red & red/wht labels on power wires from battery/solenoid gets switched on way to fusebox???

HISS has nothing to do with your issues. Here's generic layout of how HISS is wired into harness. Basically directly connected to ECU. In order for HISS to work, ECU has to get powered on by engine-stop relay. Which is powered by 20a FI fuse through 30a main fuse B. Main 30a fuse A powers everything else through ignition-switch. When key ON, everything should turn on: headlights, clocks, taillight, ECU. THEN when ECU's powered on, it sends power to HISS , which then determines from key, whether ECU should operate pump, injectors and sparks. Even IF HISS disables ECU, you should still have power to rest of bike, headlights, clocks, etc. Your main problem is wiring-short that's blowing 30a fuse B. Fix THAT and bike will run just fine. Has nothing to do with HISS. Takes 5-min to track down and fix wiring wiring-short with multimeter. If your mechanic can't do it, find someone else who knows what they're doing before this guy destroys more of your wiring harness.

Feathering on edge of sipes more visible in previous photo: I had that issue on mine too. Day 2 @ AMP on Q3+ Consulted with Dave Moss and he suggested I go 2/1psi less to 31F/28R. And increase rear rebound-damping. I added 1/4-turn per session and ended up 1 full turn more @ 2.75 turns compared to original 1.75. Much more even wear by 3rd day. Not much left, but definitely better. Also improved my times by 1.2s/lap, which is HUGE! Got set of KM1 in, looking forward to tyres that lasts more than 3-days!!! Especially at Attesa Podium Club track, which is much higher speeds. 🙂

I find it difficult to ride with right hand on hip to balance that out! Mine actually wears out left or right faster depending upon CW or CCW direction track is run. Some tracks only go in one direction, like Laguna Seca, so I wear out left side quicker.

Yes, Honda has incredible engineering and quality. In 2022, they sold 4.1-million autos and 17-million motos!!!

Yes, that's correct. Did you measure this ground with coils and ECU plugged in? Should not be ANY continuity to earth at all before cranking. Unless you've got internal short to earth in ECU. Try measuring for connection to earth again on coloured wires with ECU disconnected. Ohms = ???

Here's what I show for '00-01 ignition coils blk/wht = power feed full-time from engine-stop relay with key ON/kill=RUN coloured = open until grounded by ECU to fire coils How are you measuring ground on coloured wires? If you backprobe both coil terminals, you should be measuring +12v battery voltage on BOTH of them with no connection to ground whatsoever. Then ECU momentarily grounds to fire coils. Duration is too short to measure with multimeter. Can see flashing if you connect solenoid light. Or looks like this on oscilloscope, battery-power most of time, with momentary 5ms pulses of ground. Solenoid test light, also works on injector circuits: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0028QGU6C/

Ah, you got pigtail. Be sure to do as good joint as possible with western-union/linesman knot, solder and adhesive heatshrink wrap for mechanical strength, conductivity and corrosion resistance. Don't need to pre-tin these bigger wires.

Is that same connector as fuel-pump? Test function of wires: grn - connected to chassis-ground? brn - has power at same time as fuel-pump wire?

I recommend upgrading from Honda's low-cost specs of bare-brass terminals and getting coated terminals so they won't corrode as easily and repeat this vicious cycle again. https://www.ebay.com/itm/255432841140 https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.mobile/en_GB/;ClassicView=1?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/SFC4WR

I don't like Honda's procedure of pounding in new bearings with hammer either! There's been many reports of bearings being loose in wheels after several replacements. I always use long bolt/all-thread or hydraulic press to gently push bearings in. With no angled cocking like you get when pounding in by hand.

Greetings & Salutations!!! 👋 I really do miss all the good rides in S.F. Bay Area! Have you taken ride out to Pt. Reyes Lighthouse yet? Going down to Santa Cruz on Skyline is also awesome. Don't forget Black Rd. and Bear Creek Rd. between Hwy 17 & Hwy 9