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DannoXYZ last won the day on April 28

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About DannoXYZ

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    Mesa, AZ
  • In My Garage:
    CB125T Ninja EX250F EX250J CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350 VF500F CBR600RR VFR750F

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  1. I've found this to be combination of several things. 1. throttle-stop setting. Adjusting so throttle-plate doesn't close too much help prevent this jerking. 2. cush rubbers in wheel. They shrink over time and have gap. Reversing torque on sprocket causes large rotation back & forth. Inserting 2-3mm plastic shims into back side of each rubber so there's no movement really helps
  2. You're welcome! I've edited diagram to remove as many turns and bends as possible. Uploaded newer version 1.0.1 with slightly enlarged symbols for easier reading.. pending approval.
  3. Noise at rest has to do with tank-venting. Perhaps they didn't hook up some hose properly.
  4. Bastard!!! Hope he contracts tetanus and has slow horrible painful recovery!!!
  5. What did they try? Looks like trying to jimmy igntion-switch with screwdriver? With or without security bolts wouldn't mattered one bit. But it's YOU who will need to remove then to replace ignition swich, not them.
  6. Do you have piece that broke off? Perhaps you can cut piece to match from alloy tubiing. Then braze together with https://www.alumiweld.com Stuff is amazing! I've rejoined broken alternator ears with it for permanent repairs.
  7. Seems like this is perfect application for belleville or Nord-lock washer.
  8. Be careful about replacing steel directly with Ti in high-load structural applications. While yield and ultimate-strength of grade-9 3al/2.5v Ti is similar to 4130 chromoly steel, Ti has only 1/2 the rigidity (young's modulus). Meaning while both can take similar loads before breaking, the Ti will flex more under same loads. Ti's modulus is only 1/2 of steel regardless of alloy composition of either. So for same loads, Ti will bend twice as much! For something like radial caliper mounting where rigidity is important, I'd stay away from Ti. Applications using Ti would be specifically designed with material's properties in mind. In this case, if Honda was to use Ti bolts, they would probably use 12mm Ti bolts to account for its higher bending amounts.
  9. Don't use tap, thread-chaser better for cleaning existing threads. Most of load is carried on skin of bolt. Equation for torsional rigidity is 4th-power. So tiny increase in diameter increases strength tremendously. Going from 8mm bolt most commonly used on calipers to 10mm increases rigidity by 244%. To solve for loss of rigidity when hollowing out bolt, take torsional rigidity of bolt same size as hole and subtract from larger value of solid bolt. You'll see it actually loses very little being hollow. That's also why axles are hollow. And tubing used in trellis and bicycle frames are hollow. In fact, Ducatis are made from same Columbus chromoly tubing used to make racing bicycle frames. BTW, calculate tension on bolt from torque used, it's nowhere even close to yield-strength of material. In fact, it's well below fatigue-limit, meaning it can undergo infinite tightening/loosening cycles (SN) to spec torque without failure. Photo above of stretched Triumph bolt was obviously from over-tightening. Also came from land of warm beer because Lucas Electronics also makes refrigerators...
  10. Note that O2-eliminators don't replace O2-sensor or its signal. It connects heater circuit in O2 circuit to trick ECU into thinking it's still connected. Signal-circuit is completely disconnected with zero signal and ECU uses default baseline maps which tend to be on rich side. Especially under WOT, even richer than already rich factory setting. Will end up around 11.0:1 AFR, richer than factory 12.0:1. Both of which are far, far richer than optimum, max-power setting of 13.5:1 AFR for NA engine.
  11. Yeah, measure voltages on other wires. Something got crossed. Is there's also idle-switch on this model?
  12. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6DQrTOMRC4
  13. Those terminals are zinc coated, which are OK. Corrosion is actually from uncoated wires. Personally, I always use silicone pre-tinned wires. What you can do in this case is remove corrosion with Deoxit spray. Then solder over the crimped wire-ends. This will improve conductivity as well as seal uncoated wire-ends from moisture. Which tends to creep down wire-ends and cause internal corrosion.
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