DannoXYZ

Due to physics of light and optics, corrections need to be done as close to cornea as possible. Go see Dr. Michael Paveloff in Santa Barbara. https://www.paveloffvisioncenter.com

Good job!!!

hi and welcome! Do you have multimeter? Basically trace flow of electricity from battery to horn and measure voltage at each junction. Where voltage disappears shows problem is between that junction and previous one that did have voltage. This is 5-minute fix with multimeter (or less).

Clicking relay is typically sign of insufficient battery power Also when jumpstarting, make sure it's from know-good battery. Verify battery can start car it's in. But leave car off when jumping bike. Also wiggle jumper cable's clamps to get good bite. I've also encountred bad battery cables Final ultimate test: 1. battery voltage with everything off. Volts = ?? 2. battery voltage when pushing start-button. Volts = ???

What you don't have is petrol in cylinders. It makes it to float-bowls, but clogged and dirty secret hidden passages in carb body doesn't allow petrol to reach cylinders. As test, squirt some petrol into airbox (2-3cc). Wait 30 sec. Then try starting.

How old is owner? Maybe he had heart-attack and died. No one knows where he parked bike?

Also on some models, the centre of starter-clutch cracks from outer part. Leading to some misalignment and slippage. Noise is warning sign of impending failure.

Such cute little bike! :) Was worried you wouldn't be able to find replacement. Nice job on that intake repair.

Good job and excellent troubleahooting! 👋

Yes, do not replace perfectly-working parts with new perfectly-working parts as nothing will change. Symptoms will persist because actual fault has not been found. For example, there may be broken wire on harness-side of right switch-gear. Or it may actually be power-wire in heated-grip harness that may be shorting. 1. as Grum mentioned, document how you have heated-grips connected 2. unplug heated grips, does symptoms still persist? 3. gently work your way down switch-gear harness from handlebar end and gently squeeze & wiggle wires. You may find broken area that way if bike cuts out. Or it may be corroded or ejected terminals at connectors Trick to efficient troubleshooting (quickest and least costly), is to find actual fault 1st.

Connect voltmeter to supply line at ECM connector to monitor voltage. Power may be perfectly fine when measured at battery. It takes a long circuitous path to reach ECM. Have to traverse muliple fuses, switches and relays. Let's see final result 1st, then if there's problem, trace cricuit to find problem area.

All those GEEZERS?!@#€!!!

Anyone take screenshot of ad?

What do you spray on to clean bike?

Turning brown with age and wear may be black-zinc coating over chromate. Or nitrided. Neither of which is something you can do at home. There are black oxide kits you can DYI, but it's not very corrosion resistant and you'll see rust forming quickly. There are also rust-converter type surface-prep products that leave mildly-protective phosphate coating that needs to be painted. But no painted bolts will withstand tool marks. Best to just get new bolts from Honda.