DannoXYZ

I'm trying to find photo I saw and don't know where it is. VFR was in someone's garage on rear seat, it had one of those double-decker shogun-style rear wings you see on back of Japanese cars probably temporarily put there while they moved stuff around Does someone have copy of this photo or have link to thread where it's posted Thanks!

Thanks for info! Wait... if you remove O2-sensors on 6th-gen, it still pulls back mixtures? How does it know engine's running too rich? How does it know how much fuel to pull?

also "Lean is mean!" Max-power is made around 13.5:1 AFR on NA engines. Due to crudeness of carbs and uneven AFR curve, super-rich 10:1 mixtures were default from factory. Leaning out mixtures typically picked up +10-15% more power. Even with modern EFI systems it's common to find 11:1 AFR WOT mixtures from factory. This is safety margin in event you encountre bad petrol out in boonies on super hot day. Or have clogged injectors or failing pump. No manufacturer would be crazy enough to design engine on ragged-edge that would self-destruct if users don't follow every single operating suggestion in manual. In that regard, on any bike, O2-sensor is ignored (open-loop) when load is higher than 70-80% anyway since it's only accurate at 14.7:1. Then pre-programmed 11-12:1 AFR is used from underlying base map for safe mixtures. Give unplugging O2-sensor to test 1st to see how bike runs. Won't be any different under high loads because mixtures will be exactly same. The resistors are only prevent FI light on dash. Pretty simple to just do this and tape over.

Both. There's always a base map ECU uses to start with. Then modifies these pre-programmed values using other variables such as air-temperature, air-density (altitude), O2-sensor, etc. So underlying default map IS super rich. Then ECU uses O2-sensor feedback to dial back mixtures. This helps easier starting when O2-sensor is cold and ignored, mixture is richer for easier starting. Then as engine and O2-sensor warms up, ECU leans out mixture for more optimal combustion and power. Remember that '60s hot-rod saying...

When you turn key, does everything turn ON? Like headlights and dash? This is 5-minute fix with multimeter. Do these 2 measurements: 1. battery voltage with everything OFF. volts = ??? 2. battery voltage when pushing START button. volts = ???

Yeah, it comes down to specs importer specifies when ordering from Chinese. Japanese consumers are extremely discerning and require top-quality. U.S. consumers? not so much. When Japan was forced to import GM cars as part of trade-agreement in '80s, no one would buy them unless they were re-painted to higher standards. We've been getting crap parts here for decades, just noticed it more lately due to Trump's anti-China propaganda. But it's importers for FLAPS that have been buying at lowest-prices possible to maximise profits. Thus we're getting lowest quality as well. So many parts are bad right out of box and needs to be tested and confirmed functional before using. Thanks for tip on pump! If needed, I'll replace with brand-name pump with known good track-record Quantum or All Balls from Canada ( also made in China). Mitsubishi pump hard to find here, I'll look for it. Will also do solid-state driver mod to replace clicker, which is more likely to fail than pump itself. BTW, I haven't had any issues buying from Ali, I buy tonne of stuff for bikes and cars. I look for vendors with +97% rating with easy return/refund policies. Only issue I had was Noco-clone battery-charger that died in a month. They sent me another one promptly and it's been working great! Also bought water-cooled ceramic ball-bearing turbo for my Porsche at 1/20th of Garrett's price. Working perfectly at double factory boost for past 7-yrs. 🙂

Thanks! I've got connectors and terminals for dash side. So I should be able to insert Koso RX2N wires into proper positions to match up with factory harness for plug-n-play install 🙂 These new aftermarket dashes are amazing. Can be configured to use high/low or 2ndary-coil triggers for tach! Way back when, to use aftermarket tach, I would have to build inverter-circuit to change ground-triggers to +12v positive triggers most tachs wanted. I think I'll not cannibalize, but revive this '87 to get it back on road. Doesn't seem too be too difficult, something's wrong with fuel-pump circuit. Might be pump, might be relay, might be trigger wire to ignition box. Limited areas that needs testing and fixing. 🙂

Ah thanks! So entire front end needs swapping.... I'll try the Koso RX2N 1st. That's where I want to end up anyway.

I was just given non-running 1987 VFR for FREE!!! 🙂 Can 1987 auto-style dash fit on 1986? Are stays same? Thx this: to this: Then again, I'm thinking of installing more modern-looking RX2N Like how it can change colours.

Just came across this unanswered in search.... Easy way is to install starter-clutch from '84-85 VF500F. The trigger bumps are advanced about 5-degrees more than '86, so you'll get some quicker response out of it.

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Let's see photo of this broken wire and where it attaches.

Can also use plug to reprogram ECU maps.

Ah... I had CB-1 way back when. Would be awesome to have modern version with EFI. Not fan of pointy chin, on 1300, it looks ridiculous

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