DannoXYZ

Looks like you found problem. Trigger wire to injector is getting grounded outside of ECU. So with just key ON and power to injector harness, that unintentional ground will fire injector.

Lots of theories came up over years to explain cam issues. Bottom line was cam-housing wasn't line-bored with caps machines separately. This caused alignment issues and bearing-clearances that were way too large. Case-hardening cams would help, more of solving symptoms than fixing cause, unlike like KTM's really soft cams. Due to production variations, you may have ended up with one having good alignment and tight clearances. Plastiguage all cam bearing journals to know for sure. There's also external oil-feed kits you can install for improves lubrication. Only VFs getting properly line-bored cam-housings was '86 VF500F and VF1000R.

Make sure you check it over for chocolate cams before even starting. Not worth effort if engine's dead.

Good! Now it's onto real troubleshooting. Key ON: 1. start/stop switch, measure voltage on wht/blk input wire, volts = ??? 2. start/stop= RUN, measure voltage at output wire of start/stop switch, volts = ??? 3. engine-stop relay, measure voltage at trigger blk wire, volts = ??? 4. engine-stop relay, measure resistance between trigger-gnd red/org and chassis-ground, ohms = ??? 5. engine-stop relay, measure voltage at power-input blu/pnk wire, volts = ??? 6. engine-stop relay, measure voltage at power-output blk/wht wire, volts = ??? 7. fuel-cut relay, measure voltage at both blk/wht trigger and power-input wires, volts X2 = ??? 8. fuel-cut relay, measure resistance between trigger-gnd brn/blk wire, start/stop OFF then RUN, ohms = ??? for 4-seconds? 9. fuel-cut relay, measure voltage at power-output brn wire, start/stop OFF then RUN, volts = ??? for 4-seconds? 10. fuel pump, measure voltage at power-input brn wire, start/stop OFF then RUN, volts = ??? for 4-seconds? 11. injectors, measure voltage at each injector-connector, volts X8 = ??? 12. ignition-coils, measure voltage at each igntion-coil connector, volts X8 = ??? Somewhere along path of power-flow, you've got corroded or broken wire somewhere that's stopping start-up process. AGAIN, you need to track down and actually fix problems with wiring, NOT do hillbilly "bypasses" that appear to work, but really doesn't solve anything. Cause & effect are different. "Effect" of fuel-pump not turning on is caused by wiring problem. This wiring fault is why it blows 20a FI fuse in fusebox. It's not just fuel-pump, it powers ENTIRE EFI system: - engine-stop relay - fuel-cut relay - fuel-pump - injectors - ignition-coils - intake solenoid valves - exhaust solenoid valves - ECU, and therefore, all sensors - IAT - TPS - oxygen-sensor #1 - oxygen-sensor #2 - baro sensor - MAP sensor - cam-pulse generator - ignition-pulse generator - HISS system You'd have to run new bypass wires to ALL of these components as well if 20a FI fuse is not connected and sending power properly. Fix actual problem and effects of not running will go away! Again, this is 5-minute fix with multimeter to track down wiring-short so 20a FI fuse stops blowing. Then EFI system will work properly. Or less than 5-min in many cases. BTW - anyone notice error in manual where red & red/wht labels on power wires from battery/solenoid gets switched on way to fusebox???

HISS has nothing to do with your issues. Here's generic layout of how HISS is wired into harness. Basically directly connected to ECU. In order for HISS to work, ECU has to get powered on by engine-stop relay. Which is powered by 20a FI fuse through 30a main fuse B. Main 30a fuse A powers everything else through ignition-switch. When key ON, everything should turn on: headlights, clocks, taillight, ECU. THEN when ECU's powered on, it sends power to HISS , which then determines from key, whether ECU should operate pump, injectors and sparks. Even IF HISS disables ECU, you should still have power to rest of bike, headlights, clocks, etc. Your main problem is wiring-short that's blowing 30a fuse B. Fix THAT and bike will run just fine. Has nothing to do with HISS. Takes 5-min to track down and fix wiring wiring-short with multimeter. If your mechanic can't do it, find someone else who knows what they're doing before this guy destroys more of your wiring harness.

Feathering on edge of sipes more visible in previous photo: I had that issue on mine too. Day 2 @ AMP on Q3+ Consulted with Dave Moss and he suggested I go 2/1psi less to 31F/28R. And increase rear rebound-damping. I added 1/4-turn per session and ended up 1 full turn more @ 2.75 turns compared to original 1.75. Much more even wear by 3rd day. Not much left, but definitely better. Also improved my times by 1.2s/lap, which is HUGE! Got set of KM1 in, looking forward to tyres that lasts more than 3-days!!! Especially at Attesa Podium Club track, which is much higher speeds. 🙂

I find it difficult to ride with right hand on hip to balance that out! Mine actually wears out left or right faster depending upon CW or CCW direction track is run. Some tracks only go in one direction, like Laguna Seca, so I wear out left side quicker.

Yes, Honda has incredible engineering and quality. In 2022, they sold 4.1-million autos and 17-million motos!!!

Yes, that's correct. Did you measure this ground with coils and ECU plugged in? Should not be ANY continuity to earth at all before cranking. Unless you've got internal short to earth in ECU. Try measuring for connection to earth again on coloured wires with ECU disconnected. Ohms = ???

Here's what I show for '00-01 ignition coils blk/wht = power feed full-time from engine-stop relay with key ON/kill=RUN coloured = open until grounded by ECU to fire coils How are you measuring ground on coloured wires? If you backprobe both coil terminals, you should be measuring +12v battery voltage on BOTH of them with no connection to ground whatsoever. Then ECU momentarily grounds to fire coils. Duration is too short to measure with multimeter. Can see flashing if you connect solenoid light. Or looks like this on oscilloscope, battery-power most of time, with momentary 5ms pulses of ground. Solenoid test light, also works on injector circuits: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0028QGU6C/

Ah, you got pigtail. Be sure to do as good joint as possible with western-union/linesman knot, solder and adhesive heatshrink wrap for mechanical strength, conductivity and corrosion resistance. Don't need to pre-tin these bigger wires.

Is that same connector as fuel-pump? Test function of wires: grn - connected to chassis-ground? brn - has power at same time as fuel-pump wire?

I recommend upgrading from Honda's low-cost specs of bare-brass terminals and getting coated terminals so they won't corrode as easily and repeat this vicious cycle again. https://www.ebay.com/itm/255432841140 https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.mobile/en_GB/;ClassicView=1?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/SFC4WR

I don't like Honda's procedure of pounding in new bearings with hammer either! There's been many reports of bearings being loose in wheels after several replacements. I always use long bolt/all-thread or hydraulic press to gently push bearings in. With no angled cocking like you get when pounding in by hand.

Greetings & Salutations!!! 👋 I really do miss all the good rides in S.F. Bay Area! Have you taken ride out to Pt. Reyes Lighthouse yet? Going down to Santa Cruz on Skyline is also awesome. Don't forget Black Rd. and Bear Creek Rd. between Hwy 17 & Hwy 9

Been using All Balls kits for decades without issues. Carb rebuild-kids, wheel-bearing kits, tapered roller-bearing steering (only lower), fork-seals & bushings most recently on my CBR600RR.

When was last time valve-clearances and cam-timing was inspected?

Look at PC target-AFR and corrections table above. At cruising 20% throttle at 5800rpm, he had to reduce fuel by -68% to get 13.8:1 mixture!! Meaning uncorrected factory mapping was way, way too rich!

true, not simple voltage like earlier bikes.

Measure voltage on pink wire at ECU when key turned ON. Also measure same pink wire at HISS immoboliser.

Heh, heh... I'll try out set at my preferred pressures. Have gone through at least 50 sets of tyres on this bike. Thanks for the find! 🙂

Ugh, that's corporate CYA pressure for max GVWR at continuous top-speed of bike! You're sacrificing tonne of grip and safety at those pressures. Try 33/36 psi for much, much better braking and handling.

What kind of pressures are you running?

That's not how injectors operate. They have power full-time on blk/wht input wire, ECU grounds trigger wire on other side. Which then closes circuit and allows current to flow. Current-flow then opens injector. Injectors are wired up similar to this light-bulb circuit with full-time +12v power from battery (engine-stop relay)) and ground-switched trigger side from ECU. No power comes out of ECU injector lines. Wire up this test circuit yourself with battery, bulb and switch to understand how it works. Then measure voltage at point E. : - 1st, connect power-input line to battery, you'll measure +12v on input-side AND ground-side terminals of bulb/injector (point E. ECU line) - 2nd, next close ground-trigger switch and bulb/injector turns ON, you'll measure 0v on ground-side terminal (ECU line) It's current-flow that makes things happen, not voltage, which just pushes current. With open-circuit, full-voltage is present on input-line and output-line because energetic +12v electrons goes to end of line and just sits there waiting, no flow occurs. When circuit is closed by flipping switch, then current flows. Voltage (energetic electrons) going through filament/injector-solenoid, dumps their energy and does work to light up bulb, fire injectors, and gets drained to 0v. Then they leave ground side terminal and you'll measure 0v because their energy has been sucked out to do work. * Use V=IR to determine voltage-drop across work-load (filament, injector solenoid). For example, we have 24w bulb, and you measure current-flow of 2 amps Then use V=IR to find resistance of bulb-filament, 12v=2amps*R, R=12v/2a=6 ohms Plug back into V=IR to find voltage-drop, Vdrop=2amps*6ohms = 12V drop across bulb-filament, 12v goes in, 0v comes out when circuit is closed and current is flowing (work being done). DO NOT replace ECU wire with new one, you will be introducing TWO additional variables into system and possibly add additional errors! Also extremely difficult to extract terminal pin from ECU connector without causing permanent damage. Do passive non-interference testing and measuring only! Do not change system in any way! 1. to determine if ECU is problem, unplug it from connector and turn on bike same as before, key ON/start=RUN. Does no. 2 injector still spray unintentionally? 2. if NO spray with ECU disconnected, then you've got ECU problem 3. else if YES still spraying, then you've got short on #2 trigger wire to ground. Verify by leaving ECU disconnected and unplug all injector connectors. Key ON/start=RUN, Measure resistance between chassis-ground to each injector connector's ECU trigger wire. #1 pnk/blu ohms to chassis-ground = ??? #2 red/yel ohms to chassis-ground = ??? #3 pnk/grn ohms to chassis-ground = ??? #4 pnk/blk ohms to chassis-ground = ??? BTW - put original injectors back in. Don't replace quality OEM parts with lower-quality aftermarket parts. Do not modify system for troubleshooting by replacing perfectly-working parts with brand-new hopefully perfectly-working parts. You'll introduce additional unknown variables into system. Many aftermarket parts are bad right out of box and needs to be tested to verify proper functionality (send to https://mrinjector.us for proper solenoid and flow testing). Leave all parts as-is and only do passive testing and measurements to positively identify issue from looking at numbers only. Could've tested original injectors by swapping #2 and #4 injectors. If problem goes to #4, then injector is issue. If problem stays on #2, it's something else and injectors are fine (put injectors back into original positions). * I'm using traditional flow model for circuits here. There are other more-accurate models where electrons actually don't flow at all and it's alternating electric and magnetic fields that carry energy (not needed to understand how injectors work).

Actually you'd measure +12v fulltime, then it would drop to 0v during spray interval. Pulsewidth of 5ms not long enough for voltmeter to register anyway. +12v is applied to ALL injectors when you turn key ON and start/stop to RUN. You would measure +12v on BOTH terminals of injector connector. ECU's job is to ground individual injectors to make them spray. When injector is grounded and fired, current-flow causes voltage to drop to 0v on ECU's trigger wire (would stay +12v on blk/wht supply wire). Signal of ECU trigger line looks like this on oscilloscope