DannoXYZ

Which regulator do you have? SH847 never gets hot, so you can place it anywhere. I've actually put it underneath battery to use as spacer when going to smaller lithium battery.

How boring.... Now here's a REAL motorcycle cop chase!!!

Can also get directly from EBC: https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/motorcycle/honda/vfr-800/2002-2005/41411#

these will fit PAIR plates

Wait! ECU's not OBD2, but uses older K-line protocol? Then forget any kind of generic scan-tool, those won't be talking correct language anyway!

Are there any mods/admins for this site to help HispanicSlammer?

You'll need DLC to OBD2 adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083HRML9H

Valve-clearances actually decreae with wear, so you won't hear any noises. Next thing you know... puft-puft-puft fried exhaust valves!!!

Yeah, since I track my bike, firmer is definitely better. Completely transforms response and handling! If you want cushy ride for street, factory suspension is fine. No need to send to Jamie.

On device with stored password, can you retrieve it from there?

Yup, I do same thing. I doubt Honda makes and packs their own bearings. Sometimes, they get low QA/QC bearing from their supplier with insufficient grease. And not best quality grease either. Like Capt, I prefer to repack my bearings. I do it every other chain & sprocket replacement. Start with cleaning out old grease using brake-cleaner 1st. Unlike oil, grease chemistry varies and aren't compatible. Then pack it full with Mobil-1 synthetic grease (pink stuff). Going on 96k-miles on original wheel-bearings on my VFR750.

Yes, best to upgrade specs on your wiring and not re-do Honda's mistakes by using uncoated bare brass connectors. I got 100-pack of coated connectors and have been slowly going around entire bike replacing old brass ones before they had chance to corrode and cause me problems. Pre-tinned silicone-insulated wiring is also good idea. Do these repairs just once (best as can be done) so you won't ever have to repeat job again. https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/stranded-hook-up-wire-silicone-insulation/40773?col=manufacturer-part-number https://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-wsd1471.html https://www.westmarine.com/primary-wire Some good sources for connectors: https://cycleterminal.com https://www.corsa-technic.com https://www.automotiveconnectors.com...terminals.html https://www.easternbeaver.com https://motorcycleconnectors.com

Odd, must be poor plastic-welding job. Post some photos? Laying up some re-inforcement sheet layers sounds like good idea.

Found some photos I did couple years back. On a whim, I took a ride out to Pt. Reyes Lighthouse. Already late in afternoon and everyone already had plans, so it's just me and the Ninjette. Came back via Mt. Tam in dark. Park bike in lot and walk up to lighthouse. This is view looking north up coast. By time I arrived, steps down to Lighthouse was locked. Oh well, way too many steps anyway. Lighthouse is WAY..... down there!!! Certainly didn't keep tourists away! Info for tourists Looks like an old dog-house! The caretaker lives in this house, what a view!!!

Use 10w oil.

Greetings & Salutations!!! 👋

I've found this to be combination of several things. 1. throttle-stop setting. Adjusting so throttle-plate doesn't close too much help prevent this jerking. 2. cush rubbers in wheel. They shrink over time and have gap. Reversing torque on sprocket causes large rotation back & forth. Inserting 2-3mm plastic shims into back side of each rubber so there's no movement really helps

Noise at rest has to do with tank-venting. Perhaps they didn't hook up some hose properly.

Bastard!!! Hope he contracts tetanus and has slow horrible painful recovery!!!

What did they try? Looks like trying to jimmy igntion-switch with screwdriver? With or without security bolts wouldn't mattered one bit. But it's YOU who will need to remove then to replace ignition swich, not them.

Do you have piece that broke off? Perhaps you can cut piece to match from alloy tubiing. Then braze together with https://www.alumiweld.com Stuff is amazing! I've rejoined broken alternator ears with it for permanent repairs.

Seems like this is perfect application for belleville or Nord-lock washer.

Be careful about replacing steel directly with Ti in high-load structural applications. While yield and ultimate-strength of grade-9 3al/2.5v Ti is similar to 4130 chromoly steel, Ti has only 1/2 the rigidity (young's modulus). Meaning while both can take similar loads before breaking, the Ti will flex more under same loads. Ti's modulus is only 1/2 of steel regardless of alloy composition of either. So for same loads, Ti will bend twice as much! For something like radial caliper mounting where rigidity is important, I'd stay away from Ti. Applications using Ti would be specifically designed with material's properties in mind. In this case, if Honda was to use Ti bolts, they would probably use 12mm Ti bolts to account for its higher bending amounts.

Don't use tap, thread-chaser better for cleaning existing threads. Most of load is carried on skin of bolt. Equation for torsional rigidity is 4th-power. So tiny increase in diameter increases strength tremendously. Going from 8mm bolt most commonly used on calipers to 10mm increases rigidity by 244%. To solve for loss of rigidity when hollowing out bolt, take torsional rigidity of bolt same size as hole and subtract from larger value of solid bolt. You'll see it actually loses very little being hollow. That's also why axles are hollow. And tubing used in trellis and bicycle frames are hollow. In fact, Ducatis are made from same Columbus chromoly tubing used to make racing bicycle frames. BTW, calculate tension on bolt from torque used, it's nowhere even close to yield-strength of material. In fact, it's well below fatigue-limit, meaning it can undergo infinite tightening/loosening cycles (SN) to spec torque without failure. Photo above of stretched Triumph bolt was obviously from over-tightening. Also came from land of warm beer because Lucas Electronics also makes refrigerators...