DannoXYZ

Post to islands seems to be outrageous. Probably due to captive audience. Sent some stuff to OZ and it was $40 for less than 0.5kg! To Ireland? $50!!! Meanwhile to mainlands like EU & Asia, $20. I guess it depends upon destination's post since there needs to be handoff at some point.

I put peanut butter on my fried chicken!!!

I use edge of angle-grinder disc. Clamp grinder in vice and angle seal just right and rotate through fingers. Practice on old seals. Although in this case, slicing off lip-only with knife is better as you don't cut through rubber-layer entirely, causing it to peel off when installed. And piston-ring compressor is genius idea!!! 🙂Using some Hondabond as lube would probably help. One thing to do is examine wear-groove created by previous seal on output-shaft. Then install new one slightly outwards or inwards from previous position so it doesn't touch at same groove.

Looks like RC45 part has no lip, but not available. I usually get this kind of stuff from here: https://www.mcmaster.com/shaft-seals/ . Appears SKF #15922 will work. To help in difficult install cases like these, I usually grind 45-degree bevel on back of seal and use seal-driver to push it in. Gently hammering on exact centre really keeps it from rocking and going in crooked. Perhaps you can cut section of PVC tubing to clear output-shaft and use seal-driver?

There's 2 potential areas that may be causing this: fuel & ignition. Through series of tests which we'll walk you through, we'll narrow down what is at fault. Is it consistent amount of time from when you start it to when it dies? 2-min & 31-sec? 5-min & 17-sec? If you let bike sit for 10-15 minutes after it cuts out, does it start up just fine again? Do you have voltmeter? Do you have vacuum-gauge/pump?

One of things learned in my o-chem classes was "like dissolves like". Personally, I think it's futile to make an aqueous (polar) solution try to dissolve non-polar compounds (oil & grease). A polar solvent works much better. Yeah, I like WD-40 also, or kerosene.

I have one of these, makes perfect grilled-cheese. Gotta try grilled PB&J !!!

I've had MMG lithium battery in my CBR600RR for 6-years now without any issues. It's very basic battery without overcharge or over-discharge protection. So I've been very careful about stopping bike and leaving lights on. I haven't used it very much past 3-years. One nice thing is I don't have to trickle-charge it over winter. Last time it sat for 6-months. Started right up on 1st crank VRrrrooommm!!!!

Yes, this is process initially used for Chevy Vega's Reynolds A-390 aluminium blocks from mid-'70s. That had 17% silicon while Porsche's Alusil has 21%. The silicon-faced bores when prepped properly is extremely durable. I've rebuilt many Porsche Alusil engines with +200k-miles that had perfect bores. Just needed some clean-up of ridge on top, install new rings in and that's it! Mercedes and BMW makes extensive use of Alusil blocks. https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2016/04/honing-aluminum-blocks BMW went to Alusil after their Nikasil engines faced untimely demise from higher sulfu

There are many ways to use alloy liners. Porsche's method in '80s is Nikasil coating which puts hard layer of silicon-carbide crystal on surface. For less stringent non-racing applications, they use Alusil. Which is hyper-eutectic alloy with hard silicon crystals embedded. A precise etching/lapping process is used on final-finishing to remove the aluminium from between crystal to leave just hard silicon on surface. In end, you're really at mercy of machine-shop fitting your pistons. No one has manufacturing capabilities rivaling Honda factory, so you'll have to take huge step backw

Factory surface is as near perfect as you can get. Stable expansion with warm-up. Durable with longevity. Good thermal conductivity. Any changes you may want is going to change these properties. Go over possibilities out there and make spreadsheet comparing all pros and cons compared to OEM. With hard-data, we'd have something to discuss. Other thing to consider is compatibility with rings and pistons. Since sliding surfaces has been reversed from traditional alloy pistons sliding in iron/steel bore, you'll want to ensure pistons are iron coated to last in alloy bores.

Be extremely careful with the stuff. Dilute it lots and never leave on for too long! Simple Green doesn't just etch, but causes hydrogen-embrittlement and outright dissolves metal. Discovered this about 20-years ago on bicycle-racing forums where chains soaked in Simple Green comes out cracked with pieces missing!!! When I brought this up to Simple Green, they added warning on their website: https://simplegreen.com/industrial/faqs/ U.S. Army, Air Force and FAA discovered same (planes and helicopter falling out of sky) and issued orders forbidding its use

Hey, looking good!! be careful about soaking any bare metal in Simple Green for too long...

Not sure on this particular model, but gas-cap on many bikes have fewer tumblers. Not sure if that keycode cuts key for master that works with everything, or just gas-cap. You can also go down to dealer with VIN and they'll cut you key as well.

Look around cylinder where key inserts. Do you see word "HISS"?

ACCckkkkk! Oh my eyes!!!

Ah, I was looking at fairing sticker. Yeah, K&N has to go!!! I stopped using all their products in early '90s when studies on fleets came out showed their air-filters were letting lots of dust through.

I think that's HRC sticker

Found this nifty oil-filter cross-reference sheet. Useful to know threading and other specs: https://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html

This is part that worries me. In 5-minutes, bike will not have cooled off enough to trigger cold-start enrichment when re-started. Should not be any extra petrol to generate extra water-vapour. 1. Do compression-test. Those numbers will be good data to use for analysis. 2. Measure vacuum in intake-manifold at idle. Can use rubber-T and tap into MAP or FPR vacuum lines. 3. Has your coolant-level dropped?

I had to do some measurements with wideband-O2 on dyno many decades ago to figure this one out. Let's start from known givens: 1. Factory OEM configuration - PAIR activated. No bike ever leaves factory with popping and crackling. That's just unacceptable and anti-social. 2. Modified configuration - PAIR deactivated. Has popping and crackling. Not just PAIR, but some other mods may have been done that causes popping and crackling first, then PAIR-removal may help migitate that other mod. Ultimate cause of exhaust popping & crackling is too much unburnt f

Cost of living in CA is outrageous! $1mil+ for dump! Gotta consider cost of your time as well. It takes A LOT of work to break up bike and send parts off here and there. Most of it will end up being dumped, what a waste. Just offer whole package as-is, it'd be more valuable and useful to someone who'll finish up project and get to ride it!

Which brings up question of WHY? There's no maintenance required for connectors that have been together for decades. They're sealed and there's no corrosion issues with terminals. Why?

WooHOOO!!! My RC24 has been loaded up in Canada and on its way to California!!!

Replacement connectors also available here: https://www.corsa-technic.com/