DannoXYZ

Here's how to spread that joint slightly: 1. place coin/washer in slot between the clamp-ears 2. insert bolt from threaded side 3. screw in bolt so it pushes on coin/washer 4. add 2-3 turns more and it'll spread out joint (reverse of clamping down). 5. spray PB-blaster into gap created by expanding, let sit overnight 6. twist and pull and it should come off.

wow, those Crossrunner rotors looks like quite a deal!! 👍

Personally, I've found EBC to be better-performing than OEM. There's Brembo, but costlier than OEM. Then there's these, no experience with them: https://www.metalgear.com.au/part-finder/honda/2014/vfr-800-f-abs/

any recommendations for top-case or saddle bags???

Here's selection criteria I used: - all alloy-construction for durability - high-power USB output for overhead when used with low-power devices - fused harness Amazon has generous return-policy, so last resort, I can get refund. Had mine for 3-yrs now without any issues, even with numerous 45C trackdays.

I use one of these on my track bike. Dual USB ports are handy for powering my front & rear cameras so I don't have to deal with charging batteries. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08NVP35K5/

It's not so much CCA as that's just potential current limit. Starter will only suck as much current as its load. Smaller engines present lower loads, a 250cc draws 40-50 amps. Big-block V8 muscle cars draws +200 amps from battery when cranking. A VFR... about 60-80 amps. But... this is pitfall of buying used bike without full inspection. Maybe it's got compromised charging system that doesn't fully charge battery? Maybe that's why it hasn't been used in 2-yrs? On your ride home, maybe this drained your new battery from 100% to just 50% ? Now there's just barely enough power for starter to spin engine, but this drops voltage enough for ECU to not work, usually 11v or less. EFI bikes are much less tolerant of drained batteries than carby bikes. So, pull out multimeter and measure battery voltage under these conditions: 1. everything off, battery voltage = ??? 2. while cranking engine, battery voltage = ??? These numbers will give clues as to where to look next.

Greetings & Salutations!! Quick and easy test is to warm it up in garage and see if it'll start. If it does, we know it's cold-weather starting issue and that narrows down what to examine. If it doesn't start in warm garage, then we'll need to do more detailed and methodical troubleshooting. First step is get multimeter if you don't have one. You'll need to use it to troubleshoot by measuring voltage, resistance and perhaps even current. Next, get owner's and service manuals from downloads section - https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/ Spend couple days reading both manuals to get familiar with bike and how various systems work. Then find troubleshooting section for "not starting" condition. They'll be flowchart on what components to test in which order and how to test them. The numbers you measure on these tests can then be compared to standards in manual to determine what's wrong. Many, many possibilities, literally hundreds of things could've gone wrong. But most likely just one or two issues. Following troubleshooting chart will let you find it.

I actually use tapered bearings on bottom cup and ball-bearings on upper cup. Best of both!. :)

So there's some complaints of seals not matching. But not single case of steering or wheel bearing failure. I've used their tapered bearing kits in over 20 of my bikes over the years without issues. One of them going on 35-years now. Their tapered steering bearings solved a head-shaking issue I had cresting hill in turn-1 @ Laguna Seca. Scary @ 120mph! After installing their steering bearing kit, smooth as silk!!! Didn't realise I was holding back due to the shake, can hit 125mph over that turn now!

All-Balls sells them as separate top & bottom sets. Look up this chart: https://www.allballsracing.com/forkconversion

you'll want to flush injectors backwards. Toyota has kit for this. I suppose you can use carb spray/air-compressor, some rubber hoses and 9v battery

Plug looks like super-rich mixtures. If that's #3 or 4 with #1&2 being clean, you may have failed FPR.

Greetings & Salutations!!! Long time ago I lived in Boston!

I ride because it's necessity for my ADHD. Otherwise, I'd have to be on lots of drugs.

You need to pull each bulb and determine what type of base it has. Then purchase replacement LED with same base so it will fit into bulb socket. Here's common types of tail & brake light bulbs. Other types of commonly used bulbs are wedge-bases. Can identify them with this chart. http://www.autolumination.com/visual_bulb_finder_t6.5_wedge.html

here's what I got

pad gets pushed out radially in straight line.

Exceptions 0.1% to the rule. Sure, some vehicles are put away with float-bowls drained because owner anticipated storage. But vast majorities are not. It's "miracle" cases you hear about since it's so uncommon. Most people don't want to hear about the same-ol' "decades to restore" stories that's the norm.

Please take and post photo of same area on front-left caliper

On EFI bikes and autos with sealed tanks, I've gone 2-yrs in storage without any issues. On carby bikes with vented tanks which allows water vapour to get in (which starts separation process), it's taken as little as 3-months for petrol to gel up and clog carbs. Now I use more concentrated Stabil-360 marine product for winter storage.

another source for connectors: https://corsa-technic.com

Ah yes, U.S. gallons vs. U.K. Imperial gallons! Better just to use metric, eh?

Fuel-consumption is affected by many variables: - gearing: taller gearing on Goldwing would lower engine RPMs at cruising speeds compared to VFR - engine-tuning: VFR is tuned for high-RPM efficiency and max-power. GW tuned more for mid-range torque. At cruising speeds, engine-revs on GW would be closer to max-VE range in power-band (more efficient). - weight: only affects acceleration, more from standstill. So yes, more on GW may hurt mileage, but it comes down to torque-to-weight ratio. GW has 150% more torque than VFR for only 80% more weight. Weight going up hills may appear at first to hurt GW mileage, but it makes up for it on downhill with less power required. Simple test is to coast both down same hill from same speed at top. GW will probably hit higher coasting top-speed down hill, thus its engine will have to generate less power for same downhill speed. - speed: once you're up to steady-state cruising speed, weight doesn't affect mileage as much as aero-drag. Don't know actual drag-force at 65mph, but I suspect both of them will require similar 16-18hp to hold that speed. Longer smoother bodies tend to be more aero than shorter angular shapes.

My kitchen has centre island and I used sponge to wipe it clean. Then I tossed sponge into sink. My wife saw it disappear in mid-air on way to sink. We searched everywhere for it, in sink, under and in dishes. In cabinets and drawers surrounding sink. Looked for 30-minutes, no signs of it. Even loaded all dishes from sink into dishwasher in hopes of finding sponge with sink emptied, not a sign of it anywhere! Then in morning, there it was in empty sink where it would've landed after I tossed it!!! Most bizarre thing ever! We attribute it to some rift in space/time fabric!