DannoXYZ

The minimal amount of voltage-drop at battery 12.52 --> 12.33v indicates that not a lot of current is flowing. Larger the current flow (50-60a typically), the larger voltage drops, usually about 1.5-2.0v Having such low voltage actually reach starter shows you've got cable problem between starter-solenoid and starter. One more test to confirm: 1. measure voltage at starter-solenoid M-terminal, volts = ??? 2. measure voltage at starter-solenoid M-terminal when pushing start-button, volts = ??? BTW, your battery is dead, put it on charger. We want it above 13v before any more testing.

That's measured at B-terminal of starter-solenoid? And voltage went to 0 when pushing start button? Best to get factory OEM part from authorised Honda dealer. You can return it or get warranty replacement if it fails.

Did auto-battery actually start car?

How did you connect jumper cables between auto-battery and bike? Do these two measurements with just bike battery: 1. battery voltage with everything OFF, volts = ?? 2. battery voltage while pushing start-button (solenoid clicking), volts = ?? Do those same measurements after connecting jumper cables to auto battery: 3. voltage of auto-battery before it's connected, volts = ?? , then connect jumper-cables between bike & auto battery 4. bike battery voltage with everything OFF, volts = ?? 5. bike battery voltage while pushing start-button, volts = ??

ride around for bit to let bubbles work their way out. Note how fork feels compared to before. Then take caps off and measure oil height. Adjust if necessary.

When jump-starting from auto-battery, make sure that battery is fully functional. That is, it can start car just fine. Then connect jumper cables, but leave car OFF! Never have car running, its larger alternator will fry your bike's RR. You are just borrowing car's battery. Better yet, remove car's battery and bring to bike. Much safer, because if there's any other issues and bike still won't start, car invariably gets turned on out of desperation and now you've fried charging system on top of starting issues to repair.

Try this one. Improves on Honda's specs with coated terminals. Won't corrode over time causing extra resistance and heat. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255635817797

no

I like before storage. Just use it in spring. Oil hasn't changed since you've put it in right? Doesnt matter if it sat inside engine during that time or inside plastic jugs on shelf. BTW - Nice looking bike!

Yup, exactly same. I've got both '86 VFR750 and '87 VFR700. Have used same diagram on both without any issues.

Might be some aftermarket replacement, mine's yellow too. After 37-yrs, my RC24's RR failed. It had the PC-fan mod on it, very cute! But, I think 110F Phoenix rides finally did it in. Borrowed from VFR700 while I assemble modern series-circuit SH775 and harness together...

It's same as '86. Just remove cam-sensor and it's same

It should be right under your bum.

Definitely needs fuel-pump. Won't be able to use more than 1/3-1/2 of tank without pump. Problem is most idiot mechanics don't realize that pump ONLY runs when engine is spinning. Turn key ON, no pump action, that's perfectly normal. But then they do all sorts of contortions and gimmicks to force pump to run and end up butchering wiring and bike in process. Ingenious design of this system is fuel-pump relay. It's not just on/off with power like headlight relay. Fuel-pump relay ONLY turns on pump for fraction of second when there's ignition pulse. At low-RPMs and idle, there's few pulses per second and small amount of petrol is sent to carbs. At higher-RPMs, there's more ignition-pulses per second and more fuel is pumped to carbs to meet demands of higher loads. Amazing!! Also if you look inside tank, pick-up for petcock is higher than bottom of tank. That's about 5-ltr that can not get out of tank without pump. Don't buy crappy aftermarket pump. OEM Mitsubishi pump is good. Quantum and Kemso are decent aftermarket pumps

There's lots of regulations around shipping paint and its VOC levels. Oil & solvent-based paints are considered hazardous material, they can only go via ground transport. Latex and water-based paints can use any shipping. Try some of these. I haven't used them, so not specific recommendation. https://tcpglobal.com/ https://spraygunner.com https://www.autogeek.net/ https://retro.paintwithpearl.com/index.mobi.html Depending upon who you buy from, you may be able to use freight-forwarding service (some paint suppliers won't send to them): https://www.myus.com

Greetings & Saluations!!! 👋 Let's see some photos of your bike!

You're talking about having more mechanical leverage in hydraulics. There's balance where too much gives you soft gooey lever with lots of travel. Going other way gives more solid feel, but less power. Ultimately, it's personal preference because actual braking-power is limited by tyre's traction on ground.

Brake fluid doesn't come gushing out with explosive force! Watch the piston as you squeeze. As soon as piston leaves, you stop squeezing and get a tiny dribble, 1-2cc and that's it!

What's wrong with using brake-fluid pressure to push piston out rest of way? As soon as piston clears end of bore, all pressure is released and it stops moving. Because fluid isn't compressed and there's little difference in volume between compressed and uncompressed fluid. Air-pressure on other hand, can build up quite high pressure depending upon how stuck piston is. It will continue to expand and push on piston even after it's out from caliper because compressed volume is so much smaller. Quite explosive and dangerous!

Certainly sounds like it huh? If connecting battery directly to starter and it's still sluggish...

Ok, this rules out starter-solenoid not transmitting power as culprit. 2. what's battery voltage when pushing start-button. volts=??? 3. what's voltage at starter lug (where solenoid cable attaches) when pushing start-button. volts=???

Here's Honda dealer near him. No guarantee on their expertise. https://ondavis.com General repair shoppes, from motos to chainsaws! No guarantees, haven't used them. https://www.motonelas.com https://www.andardemoto.pt/concessionarios-motos/dir/d/viseu/c/oliveira-de-frades/p-525/motopal-de-paulo-torres-lourenco/

Which bolt is this? Can you provide photo? I think you lucked out by not frying your entire charging system by revving auto engine. Do these 2 tests when it's warm and uncooperative; 1. battery voltage when everything's OFF. volts=??? 2. battery voltage when pushing start-button. volts=??? 3. voltage at starter lug (where solenoid cable attaches) when pushing start-button. volts=??? Just like doctor measuring your pulse and BP, numbers will give insight into what's wrong. Similar to physician's creed of "do no harm", we don't want to change anything in system. Otherwise you'll introduce additional variables into system, potentially causing extra faults and chasing your tail in circles. Only non-invasive, non-destructive passive measurements only. This is 5-minute fix with multimetre... or less in most cases...

I second suggestion to take to pro. Have not done any proper testing with numbers. Going off on un-related tangents. You're gonna destroy this bike as damages are piling up more and more with useless hacks.

Measure voltage at fuel-pump connector when powering on by bike's electronics.