DannoXYZ

messure temp of FH020 RR: 1. on 1st startup when voltages are normal 2. again when voltages start dropping. Trace where hot wires go: 3. determine exactly which wires are hot 4. measure exact current-flow through these wires when they're hot, clamp-on ampmeter will work 5. examine all end-components powered by this hot wire. Measure power consumption of each. Might not even be that, could have short-to-ground on that power-wire downstream somewhere

What is this "permanent load" you're talking about that solid-state relays would save? Why would solid-state relays place less load on electrical system? Power consumed (load) is determined by devices being powered by relays. Low-beam filament consumes 55w. High-beam filament consumes 60w. Doesn't matter if it's mechanical or solid-state relay doing the switching, they will still have to pass exact same amount of power to bulbs. And electrical system will still need to generate and flow exact same amount of power with either type of relay. Solid-state relays have many benefits: faster switching times with less electrical noise & static, higher power-transmission in smaller size, cooler operation. But power-savings isn't one of them.

Some smart factory engineers have thought of these questions and devised some clever solutions. Dual Filament Bulbs - take look at this wiring diagram of left-hand controls. From different bike, so colours may be different, but wiring is exactly same. Dimmer switch (3) is SPDT with power coming in on BL/Y wire LO position - sends power out R/Y wire to low-beam filament HI position - sends power out R/BK wire to hi-beam filament Note that dimmer switch can ONLY be connected to ONE output terminal at a time. When in LO position, it powers low-beam filament. When switched to HI position, switch disconnects power from low and connects it to high-beam filaments. It's impossible for such switch to power both filaments at same time. Logically, it's an OR circuit.

Still better than FB!

Darn good job! :) I'll be doing my valve-covers and side-cases in Cerakote at some time this next year. :)

Problem is... due to way RR runs stator at 100% full-time, ANY connector will end up getting burnt and fried over time. Especially if you make Honda's mistake and use bare brass terminals with no protective coating against corrosion. People have tried replacing burnt connectors with NEW ones.... nope... Only real solution is tie stator wires across with proper western-union/linesman knot, solder and cover with adhesive heat-shrink tubing. Contact surface-area and conductivity is lots higher with solder (less resistance and heat). No exposure to moisture to cause corrosion. It's done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), aerospace and military applications for performance, durability and reliability.

try these outfits https://www.corsa-technic.com https://www.easternbeaver.com https://motorcycleconnectors.com https://cycleterminal.com https://www.automotiveconnectors.com/connectors-and-accessories.html http://www.vintageconnections.com/

Looks awsome!!! How about CASPER ?

Hey, good job!

Awesome ride and report!!! Great photos! So nostalgic, I used to do Big Basin & Black Rd almost daily when I lived in Saratoga. Here's video I found of Mines from Livermore Starbucks to The Junction and beyond.

Yeah, how rude!!!

Here's interesting way to build lithium pack by re-using case of old lead-acid battery. Or you can get empty cases for DIY: https://www.ebay.com/itm/165684304541 I've been using these smallest Ballistic 4-cell batteries in my race Ninja 250 and track CBR600RR for past 7 and 10-yrs without any issues. Weighs less than half kg. These are older design (no longer available) that doesn't have BMS for over-charger or over-discharge protection. Not problem on track-bikes, but may not have capacity to deal with street-bike events like leaving headlights on accidentally. Would discharge battery below point of recovery and destroy it. Modern lithiums with BMS (or build yours with BMS) are much more tolerant of overcharing and discharging. I really Battery Tender line of batteries. Nice thing about LiFePO4 is they can take super-high charging rates, 10C!! Or about 10x higher than lead-acid batteries. I've topped off these batteries using auto-battery chargers at 5-8a without any issues! :)

Found the thread:

There was thread couple years ago where someone was going to convert jump-pack from Costco into battery. I'll see if I can find it as there was lots of good discussion. General idea is you build pack from LiFePO4 cells. Larger 22650 ones would be better than small 18650 used in Teslas and laptops. Also make sure they are LiFePO4 rather than traditional lithium-cobalt that had bad rap for overheating and blowing up. LiFePO4 is inert chemistry that simply doesn't overheat or even burn. You can put LiFePO4 battery on top of campfire and when plastic case has been burned away, guts of battery will leak out and actually put out fire! Here's basic example:

We've seeing lower QA on batteries in U.S. There's actually only handful of manufacturers and they make hundreds of private-labels for big-box stores. Used to be able to buy 100-month auto battery from Costco. Now it's only 36-month max for double price. Used to get 10-yrs out of Yuasa moto battery, no more! I've given up on all lead-acid batteries and make my own lithium packs.

You've collected some good data. What you want to measure is battery voltage when you are having trouble: - battery voltage with everything off - battery voltage with start-button pushed and starter spinning or trying to spin (battery under max-load) This can be done with on-board voltmeter: 1. battery voltage with everything OFF 2. battery voltage when start-button pushed and starter powered Amount of voltage drop tells lots about condition of battery and charging system. You'll notice trends between when things are working optimally compared to when it's not. My battery voltage is typically between 13,2-13,5v before I start and about 11,5 when starting. In above example, battery isn't fully charged due to 10-min of leaving headlight ON to aim it (engine off). If voltage drops below 10,5v, bike will have difficulty starting as ECU and coils won't have enough voltage to operate. You may want to look into something like this for analysing live-data: https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07G57ZK3F/

Most likely they're spaced away from goggles so that corrective lens ends up being close to eyeballs like regular glasses.

Due to physics of light and optics, corrections need to be done as close to cornea as possible. Go see Dr. Michael Paveloff in Santa Barbara. https://www.paveloffvisioncenter.com

Good job!!!

hi and welcome! Do you have multimeter? Basically trace flow of electricity from battery to horn and measure voltage at each junction. Where voltage disappears shows problem is between that junction and previous one that did have voltage. This is 5-minute fix with multimeter (or less).

Clicking relay is typically sign of insufficient battery power Also when jumpstarting, make sure it's from know-good battery. Verify battery can start car it's in. But leave car off when jumping bike. Also wiggle jumper cable's clamps to get good bite. I've also encountred bad battery cables Final ultimate test: 1. battery voltage with everything off. Volts = ?? 2. battery voltage when pushing start-button. Volts = ???

What you don't have is petrol in cylinders. It makes it to float-bowls, but clogged and dirty secret hidden passages in carb body doesn't allow petrol to reach cylinders. As test, squirt some petrol into airbox (2-3cc). Wait 30 sec. Then try starting.

How old is owner? Maybe he had heart-attack and died. No one knows where he parked bike?

Also on some models, the centre of starter-clutch cracks from outer part. Leading to some misalignment and slippage. Noise is warning sign of impending failure.

Such cute little bike! :) Was worried you wouldn't be able to find replacement. Nice job on that intake repair.