HighSideNZ

With modern FI/CDI engines the ECU doesn't know where the crank is in relation to the cams when you first try and start. It needs to do a rev or two so as the cam and crank angle sensors sort their lives out and the ECU knows where everything sits in relation to one another. Phil

I'm with you in the camp of a small number of VFR owners who are/have chased additional HP in larger volumes. Me with my 825 5th/6th Gen and Mohawk with his 5th Gen. Both with cams, me with a big bore and head work as well. My fix for the header situation was to buy an RC45 Shark header and mod it to fit and now with me not running side pod radiators the front splayed headers from the RC45 were a good choice. The only way to overcome the small gasket issue for me was to not run any. Good luck with your mods and I hope it all works out as well as mine did. Cheers Phil

Trying to just remove the bottom crankcase on a 5th Gen, with heads and cam drives in place is not really an option. There are M10 bolts that need to be torqued at assembly that are hard up under the rear head that you may not be able to get to. Also, the spring loaded anti back lash gears on the cam drives may also force the crank up and disengage the cam drives causing the cam timing to be lost. You would want to be very careful.

Yes in hindsight, I should have done a similar thing but too late now.

The saga continued. Went to start the bike the next day and it fired up, sat idling, then stopped. Back to original issue with no fuel pump and this time no head lights (low beam) Ripped everything apart again and traced the voltages, or the lack of them, back to the Blue Connector again. Decided to replace the bottom six connectors with a waterproof automotive connector, so cut and lengthened each wire from both sides of the blue connector and crimped on the new bits. Put it all back together and voltages back to what they should be, battery voltage. This connector is probably going to bite every 6th Gen owner at some stage. I've got 100,000 km on mine and it's only 8 years old.

Well went to start my 2010 Gen 6 VFR today and there was no fuel pump noise! Started out and checked the kill switch, engine stop relay, fuel cut relay and everything in between. All checked out OK so the big blue connector on the left hand side was next. Sure enough, the bottom 4 connectors were corroded. The Red/White wire at the bottom is the one that feed the fuel pump. Cleaned them all up and coated them in OxGard. Everything working as expected now but this is something all Gen 6 owners need to keep an eye on. Even after the Honda recall on this fault in the early years of the Gen 6, the problem still exists even in the latest Gen 6 released. Phil

Great. Thank you all.

Thanks AJS Yes I was wanting it exactly as shown in the image, on the centre stand with the wheel free. I've already altered the geometry and I had this written down but seem to have lost it. Great and thanks Phil

Hi Urbanengineer Any update on this? Cheers Phil

Hi all Can someone do me a small favour and measure the standard rear suspension droop with a 6th Gen on the centre stand. The dimension outlined in this image. I need the distance from the centre of the axle to the centre of the rear hole on the pillion peg mount. Thanks Phil

Urbanengineer what you forgot to mention is that people racing are replacing chains very regularly and do very few miles compared to a road rider. After working the the industry for too long to remember, I would advise anyone changing a chain or sprockets to do both at the same time.

I went from PR4s to Metzeler M7 RR and love them.

I cut down a Givi touring screen as well and at 6' 1" I've found it has made quite a good change to noise level.

I'd be doing a compression test on this to make sure everything is OK. Also recheck your cam timing.

Sorry but back to the VTec buckets. In all cases you need to measure the bucket with a micrometer and make sure the size etched on it is correct. Someone may have already lapped them down so they may not be the marked measurement. You are only talking about a few thousandths of an inch. No machine shop is going to do anything for you. As I said earlier, 800 grit wet and dry on a glass plate and lap them down in a figure 8 pattern whilst keeping the surface wet with water and a bit if dish washing detergent. Keep measuring with your micrometer until you've removed the amount necessary to give the correct clearance.