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HighSideNZ

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HighSideNZ last won the day on January 21

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About HighSideNZ

  • Rank
    World Superbike Racer
  • Birthday November 23

Profile Information

  • Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
  • In My Garage:
    2010 VFR800 with a 136RWHP 5th Gen 825cc engine, RC45 based cam profiles and pipes, ported heads etc

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  1. Hey sfdownhill. Seeing that the O2 sensor on the 8th Gen is a M12 device, I'd like to have my set of headers with NO O2 bungs fitted, but with 3 M18 bungs included in the box. I'll position and weld my own to suit my specific circumstances if that is possible. Cheers Phil
  2. Back on the 8th Gen headers Someone mentioned that the front pipes merge together and so do the rears. That is correct. Look at this In my opinion Honda have gone on a cost saving drive with this and it is all about reducing costs in the pipes. A single O2 sensor and crap merges. The firing order is still the same between 5th, 6th and 8th Gen so our performance pipes will possible make a bigger gain on the 8th Gen Just my opinion. Phil
  3. The normal positioning of O2 sensors, from the Bosch documentation, is that they should be a minimum of 10 degrees above the horizontal centreline. See below:
  4. Looking good. One thing that people may need to be aware of is the bottom O2 bung is quite level so you need to make sure it cannot get and hold water vapour during start/warm up, especially when being warmed up on the side stand.
  5. From the figues listed for the package size and weight, this is the approximate cost to get one to New Zealand. this is in NZ$
  6. HighSideNZ

    767337

    Centre stand on the deck I'd say more that foot peg.
  7. Great to hear that the 8th Gen is getting closer. Can't wait to see what it's like. Good work guys.
  8. This is where I put my third bung when I made up my pipe. Sorry I don't have a shot with it on the bike but as you can see I positioned it to clear all of the running gear on the 6th Gen.
  9. Hi sfdownhill As the second production run is going to be for the 8th Gen headers, when do you want the deposit? I can send as soon as you say go! Do you want it processed the same way as the 5th/6th Gen? "send a $200 deposit with your vfrd or vfrw username in the note section to the vfrheaders@gmail.com paypal account and PM us [in that order]." Cheers Phil
  10. Hi all My pipes are modded RC45 and as such have the splayed front headers just like the Gen 8. You can't do the upper/lower radiator mod with stock Gen5/6 headers. Phil
  11. I'm with you SebSpeed. Can't wait for an 8th Gen version. It really is only the front headers that need to change.
  12. The highlighted items are what I used to do the job. As I said, the radiators were from ebay but all the other hardware was new. The top bracket #20 I cut the ends off and welded them to a length of 12mm square tube with a bracket welded to it that I bolted directly to 2 M8 tapped holes in the underside of the headstock. All other brackets either bolt directly to the Gen 6 frame or fit over the frame pins that the original radiators mounted on to. So I'd have to say that the Gen 6 and Gen 8 frames are generally the same, at least around the head area. Cheers Phil
  13. After fitting a modified NC30 lower radiator a couple of years ago, with Gen 8 second hand parts become available, I thought I'd do the entire "Front Radiator" thing and ditch the side rads. Basically got hold of an upper and lower radiator off eBay and bought the rest of the hardware, brackets, hoses etc. from Partzilla from the Gen 8 parts list. I had to make the top bracket, up against the head stock and as the fan on the Gen 8 is controlled from the ECU, I had to put a thermo switch in the new top hose. Since completing the job, it has run extremely well with me only seeing a top temp of 98 dec C and this is during our summer in New Zealand. Here are some photos of the finished job. Thermo switch Top rad with guard Had to shorten the bottom bracket by 15mm to fit within the Gen 6 fairing Modded Gen 8 radiator guard on the bottom Fashioned some expanded aluminium sheet to fill the fairing ports where the side rads were. Had to fit a relay to run the fan off the thermo switch as it's current rating was a little low.
  14. As far as I am aware, the liners cannot be removed. You bore them in-situ.
  15. Thing I found with the dual compound in the PR5 was that with spirited riding the sides wear down and leave a ridge between the soft compound side and the hard compound centre. This was a little disturbing as you could feel the change. I've gone back to Conti Sport Attacks which are a single compound that warm up really fast and stick like glue. Just me 2 cents worth!
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