HighSideNZ

Don't forget the 8th Gen front pipes go wide around the lower radiator fan so as a completely different shape to the 5th/6th Gen. Also, as I found when making up my own pipes from a set of RC45 ones, the rear headers need more room for the 6th/8th Gen cam chain tensioner as it sticks out a fair bit from the rear of the head.

Don't forget there are exchange rate differences between AU$, US$ and NZ$ $75 in our currency is a shit load less in US$

I agree that the hoses looked really good. Just check the branch on the bottom hose. My one had a very restricted hole between the branch and the main hose. The clamps are all BS standard marked and were really smooth in operation so yes they are high quality. Good luck.

I would go with the Wet and Dry on a glass plate and lap the top of the bucket down until you get the correct thickness. Check your initial measurements again and did you use the "locking" pins to lock the VTec buckets to the followers. Part number: 07XMZ-MCEA100 Without the locking pins the VTec valves are always going to be tight. Check the factory manual for the 6th Gen

I've got a Sigma slipper clutch in mine, as well as the shift kit and both are great. I do not believe either are going to help with the clunky shift. Oil is the main culprit to this. If it hold on to the clutch plates then the gear change is going to clunk. Try different oils until you find one that doesn't do it so bad. Down here I'm using Penrite 10W-40 Synthetic PAO Ester and so far that is the best I've found.

I've just fitted a full set of AS3 hoses, using their SS full band clamps and have had no end of issues with leaks. All the spigots were clean and in really good condition so I do not think that was the issue. I'd tighten it all up, pressure test it and it was all Ok, go for a ride and on my return there would be a leak from a joint. Tighten the offending clamp and all OK. Go for another ride and there would be another leak from somewhere else. Persevered with this for a week, chasing leaks all around the place until it got to the point where the leak was under the throttle bodies. At that point I removed the AS3 hoes and went back to my plain old rubber ones. Not a leak since. So as far as I am concerned, silicone hoses are off the agenda. Total failure.

What Mohawk outlines above is well on the money and the pipe I cut up to adapt for mine was originally a Shark RC45 unit. I was interesting that it has longer primaries on the front than the back and the secondaries are the opposite, shorter from and longer back. Primaries are 40mm OD x 1.2mm wall giving 37.6mm ID Secondaries are 45mm OD x 1.2mm wall giving 42.6mm ID They seem to work quite well and I think the idea behind the varying length was to try and keep as much mid range as possible. You need to map the rear and front cylinders completely different on fuelling and you can see the rears are fatter in the mid so again it seems to work pretty well.

I've aimed for 29mm free sag and 37mm ride height on the front. And 6mm free sag and 30mm ride height on the back. The main point I was trying to make is about the ride height induced by the rise and fall of the eccentric. this has really nothing to do with the dialed suspension ride height. It is all to do with the geometry of the overall bike. The rise and fall on the eccentric is in the order of 15mm and this is a large change in the geometry.

I am involved as a technician with an MV Agusta F3 that we race in Supersport in both New Zealand and in the MotoAmerica rounds last year. I mention this as the MV also has an eccentric and we use a ride height gauge and adjust the shock length to make the ride height a standard measurement when changing gearing. I made a ride height gauge for my VFR and also adjust the shock length when adjusting the chain etc. The effect of changing the eccentric is quite dramatic on the geometry especially if you are working in either the front or rear sectors where the height change is quite great compared to when it is in the centre position. Well worthwhile measuring and trying to maintain the same ride height when dialing in your suspension. Here is a photo of the gauge I made up in position. You measure from the axle to a known point on the gauge. Cheers Phil

Hi Seb We don't have the evap crap down here in New Zealand so it didn't enter into the equation. Phil

Yep, I have. I did it about 3 years ago using model aircraft silicone fuel line. Have not had a problem. Cheers Phil

There is no actual kit for the VFR you just buy the bits and do the work. Check them out. http://roadstercycle.com/index.htm Phil

Hey guys, just to clarify things here! I'm not the rider, just the mechanic, or one of a couple of mechanics, specifically looking after the electronics/race ECU/data logging, as well as anything else that crops up. Pretty full on. We are running this MV with a new young rider this year in New Zealand and as well as the MV, a Kramer 690, so no let up in workload. The rider in the photo is the son of an old friend that rode in the WSBK back in the '80/'90 by the name of Robbie Phillis. This is Al Phillis who rode for Grallini in the WSBK and spent a number of years in the German Champs riding for Emil Weber. Cheers Phil

Hi Guys Yes as Terry said up the page a bit, he has "helped" me clean out the shed a bit by taking some of the off cast gear. As far as the bike goes, it is really going very well. When I originally built the engine I used some second hand pistons as I was unsure as to whether it would all work out. So, a couple of months ago I tore it all down and built up a brand new set of pistons and dropped the valve pockets so as I can dial in a bit more cam advance. Balanced the piston assemblies and CCed the piston crowns. So nice working with new pistons. Built the bottom end all back up with new bearings, rings, pistons and piston pins. Then pulled the heads down and checked the valves. Decided to replace all the valves with new as the old ones had done a fair few k's and a lot of them pretty hard. Valves are not easy to find for 5th Gen engines these days but David Silver had a full set. Built it all up and reinstalled it in the bike. Since then it has been going really well and I've got it mapped pretty close now with a wideband O2 sensor in both the front and rear pipes. I still think it is one of the best modifications you can do to a 6th Gen. So it's now back to working on our MV 675 F3. This was us on the grid at Laguna Seca for the MotoAmerica/World SBK round earlier in the year being wished good luck by Claudio from MV Agusta Reparto Corse Off this weekend to the first main meeting in New Zealand so the VFR is going to take a back seat for the next couple of months. Cheers Phil

The speedo sensor plug is in the same boot as the O2 sensor plugs. Suggest you take a look and check the connectors etc. Might be worthwhile spraying them with contact cleaner.