HighSideNZ

This is where I put my third bung when I made up my pipe. Sorry I don't have a shot with it on the bike but as you can see I positioned it to clear all of the running gear on the 6th Gen.

Hi sfdownhill As the second production run is going to be for the 8th Gen headers, when do you want the deposit? I can send as soon as you say go! Do you want it processed the same way as the 5th/6th Gen? "send a $200 deposit with your vfrd or vfrw username in the note section to the vfrheaders@gmail.com paypal account and PM us [in that order]." Cheers Phil

Hi all My pipes are modded RC45 and as such have the splayed front headers just like the Gen 8. You can't do the upper/lower radiator mod with stock Gen5/6 headers. Phil

I'm with you SebSpeed. Can't wait for an 8th Gen version. It really is only the front headers that need to change.

The highlighted items are what I used to do the job. As I said, the radiators were from ebay but all the other hardware was new. The top bracket #20 I cut the ends off and welded them to a length of 12mm square tube with a bracket welded to it that I bolted directly to 2 M8 tapped holes in the underside of the headstock. All other brackets either bolt directly to the Gen 6 frame or fit over the frame pins that the original radiators mounted on to. So I'd have to say that the Gen 6 and Gen 8 frames are generally the same, at least around the head area. Cheers Phil

After fitting a modified NC30 lower radiator a couple of years ago, with Gen 8 second hand parts become available, I thought I'd do the entire "Front Radiator" thing and ditch the side rads. Basically got hold of an upper and lower radiator off eBay and bought the rest of the hardware, brackets, hoses etc. from Partzilla from the Gen 8 parts list. I had to make the top bracket, up against the head stock and as the fan on the Gen 8 is controlled from the ECU, I had to put a thermo switch in the new top hose. Since completing the job, it has run extremely well with me only seeing a top temp of 98 dec C and this is during our summer in New Zealand. Here are some photos of the finished job. Thermo switch Top rad with guard Had to shorten the bottom bracket by 15mm to fit within the Gen 6 fairing Modded Gen 8 radiator guard on the bottom Fashioned some expanded aluminium sheet to fill the fairing ports where the side rads were. Had to fit a relay to run the fan off the thermo switch as it's current rating was a little low.

As far as I am aware, the liners cannot be removed. You bore them in-situ.

Thing I found with the dual compound in the PR5 was that with spirited riding the sides wear down and leave a ridge between the soft compound side and the hard compound centre. This was a little disturbing as you could feel the change. I've gone back to Conti Sport Attacks which are a single compound that warm up really fast and stick like glue. Just me 2 cents worth!

Yep, I just didn't like the VTec profile so went with the 5th gen. You have no choice but to use the 6th gen ECU as the 5th gen is completely different as far as I know. I've got a RapidBike Racing module on it and adjusted the ignition advance to suit as well as the fueling. Sweet as a nut now and just like a real bike should be. The other thing I did do to lessen the twitchy throttle was to change to a quick action throttle. Used an HRC one with the standard VFR cables. Just has to find a switch block to suit. Might sound funny but the quicker action seems to make the low speed twitchiness much less.

I believe that this has been tried in the past, forcing the solenoid to engage all the time, and IIRC there was an issue with low oil pressure at low RPM. Not good for any engine. That is why I run a 5th gen in my 6th gen.

Another thing to keep in mind is that after welding the bungs will need to have a tap run thru them to clean up the thread as they shrink and distort during welding. Also, make sure you use an anti-seize on the threads as stainless to stainless will gawl and lock up, especially once there is heat involved. Don't get the anti-seize on the sensor end. Apply it to the threads on the sensor and not in to the bung where it would get pushed out when screwing in the sensor. Phil

Again, as to the air filter. As long as ALL dyno runs are done with the same filter in generally the same clean condition that is all we can hope for. We are building an exhaust system and not the total bike, so: 1. Keep ALL other parameters static apart from fueling changes. 2. If it is an oiled filter, clean and oil it and run the bike with it for say 50/80 km BEFORE the first dyno run. 3. DO NOT alter the air filter between runs unless it has become contaminated in some way. Honestly, to get the most consistent readings, a new standard paper filter would probably be the best way to go. Remember, we are testing exhausts and nothing else. So, get the fueling right with the standard pipes, read the power curve, then rinse and repeat with the new pipes.

We are talking about road bike here not bleeding edge WSBK or MotoGP machines. I would just stick with the 3 bungs as I outlined on my earlier marked up image. I've had good results with this set up in the past. we also need to keep in mind that most add on modules like the RB Racing and PCV will possibly have only 2 maps that directly relate to the OEM ECU and the way the fueling was originally laid out. EG: What headers were merged etc. My 2c worth.

I'd get 3 bungs put in the pipe myself. Like this. A single one past the last collector and one each just past the other collectors. Then you can tune each set individually if you want. Just my thoughts on the matter.

Hi HighSideNZ, Thank you for your donation of 15.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion