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Dangeruss last won the day on June 22 2021

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About Dangeruss

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    '98 VFR800
    '85 RZ350 (heavily modified)

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  1. I put an Aprilia shift arm on mine. It had the same splines and an eccentric adjuster on the tip. It was a bit shorter, which increased effort a bit, but the improved ergo was worth it.
  2. Yeah, it could be down to something as simple as they changed the plating spec for the steel body to address an issue on the first year that changed the part number, but usually they supercede part numbers if the new part is backwards compatible, unless there is an aesthetic difference that would be noticeable. That wouldn't likely be the case with a starter motor. Curiously the '99-'09 part number is also shown as the part for the '94 RC45. edit- I didn't think to check aftermarket, they list the same part number for '98-'09 so it should work.
  3. I'm curious if anyone has fitted a later starter motor to a '98 5th gen. Honda lists a separate part number for the '98 than '99-'09, but they look identical and all internal parts have the same number. The '98 is NLA from Honda, although at the price for a new one of any year it would be out of the question anyway. I can't think of any reason why a mid 2000's starter wouldn't work if it mechanically fits (including tooth count/pitch) but prefer to ask before spending the money. Thanks!
  4. I picked up a Honda accessory hugger for the 8th gen as I had seen someone post a picture of one mounted on a 5th gen. I cannot find it for trying, and the search function on here torments the hell out of me. I realize I will have to drill and tap 2 holes in the swingarm to mount it, but I figured looking at an existing example or asking someone who has done it could improve my chances of success regarding placement and mounting. Any input is appreciated.
  5. On the topic of bars, I went with Apex on my RZ350 when I put R6 forks on it. They were okay but I had issues with their tolerances on a number of details. A bit later I ordered some replacement bars and they were not the same as the first ones I bought. I ended up asking for a refund and returned the parts as agreed, but I had to chase them forever for the money. They weren't terrible but the overall experience put me off. I ordered Convertibars instead and wouldn't hesitate to buy those first if I changed bars on the VFR.
  6. They are on the fiche actually, they have their own page; https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2ae4f870023420a30efd/proportioning-valve The fact that they show a price suggests they are still available, surprisingly. Maybe try your local dealer, but don't be surprised if it's a lengthy back order.
  7. @sfdownhill I bet you can't wait to get that back, enjoy! Thanks for the bracket offer, I got one from the same person on here, it fits great. I like the airbox lid, that's another thing I'm trying not to look at yet, maybe next year. @ducnut Thanks for the pics, very clean. With the Brembo the line can come down straighter so I might not need too much elongation. I need to find out if it's okay to swap the banjo and bleeder on the P34, same thread and taper on the bottom, it just looks like the bleeder side has been 'kissed' with a cutter to make a small seat at the bottom.
  8. Sorry to derail your post but with tease pictures like those you have to expect it. I currently have my 5th gen in a lot of pieces and am trying not to add anymore changes until it is operational. Your pictures of the single nut rear conversion are causing me torment, but I am trying to focus on the part that is relevant to what I am am doing at the moment. I was just scoping out if I have all the fittings I need to make the brake lines for a delink and Brembo rear caliper swap and have now spent the last half hour trying to feed a piece of -3 line through my swingarm after looking at your pictures. I assume you must have done it while you had the hub out to do the Ducati swap? At the front did you loop in front of the shock and enter through the casting hole on the left side? Pretty slick setup, nicely done.
  9. Thanks, pic attached. Last time we moved my wife said I would never use those weights again so I was happy to prove her wrong. OP Sorry for the hijack.
  10. The hollow VFR rear axle presents a creative opportunity for keeping the front end off the ground for service; IIRC I had 35 lbs on each side. If the front end stays up comfortably with the bike complete it only gets more stable as you remove parts.
  11. While I am completely dismantling the bike, has anyone found it of any value to clean the oil pump strainer? If it is just a coarse screen meant to stop the pump sucking up errant bolt sized things I think it's probably not worth is, but if people find them semi pugged and gunky maybe it is. I don't have any leaks around the sump and have no other reason to go in there unless it is worthwhile.
  12. I had to stop after the dipstick or I was going to wake people up laughing.
  13. ...and then convert it to Canadian dollars to feel truly violated.
  14. Very good question, I want it clean like new but do not want to change the finish. I am adamantly opposed to polishing anything that didn't come that way. I have lightly tried some NAPA Aluminum Brightener that you dilute depending on severity, it's basically acid. I think I am going to start with degreaser and then aluminum wheel cleaner, certainly open to suggestions.
  15. To prove you are right I purchased the identical cart that Ducnut used yesterday at Princess Auto, the Canadian equivalent of Harbour Freight (probably made in the same factory in China with a different sticker). I also got a 'motorcycle jack' which is basically a miniature manual version of the hydraulic lift table my bike is already on. Should make the separation easier. Anyone know how much a bare VFR engine weighs? I'm guessing maybe 150-200 lbs?
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