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After adjusting valve clearance on the other VFR in the morning decided to go for a ice cream in the afternoon on the Transalp, as today it's finally like Summer and 25°C (so you want to ride not 35-45°C line mid/south Europe) And Yes, I still fit my size 48 leathers! I'm perhaps boring, but I just love to ride my favorite road to that same cafe And a picture from on way home I guess my tires are safe for my roads I prefer to ride A tiny bit of chicken strip still but almost to edge. The Transalp is perfectly capable to have fun on twisty tarmac road's 😎 So much fun as joy!

I use Solidworks for work and at home. Show me what you are trying to do, and I'll see what I can do.

Vfr1200 is shaft driven

Shoot me an email, I'll try to squeeze it in

Service the clutch slave and master, check the clutch basket fingers for grooving and file if necessary. Also, send me a picture of your old clutch cover, as I may have a use for it...

From the pictures I don't see anything that needs replacement. Its hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like there is some minor glazing on the friction plates (first picture) that could be addresses with a light sanding with emery cloth. Check the shop manual, there are thickness limits for the friction plates, length limits for the springs and flatness limits or the steel clutch plates. If they are within limits I would address the glazing and put it back together. Also while your in there check the clutch slave cylinder operation and clutch rod straightness. Any "stickiness" in the clutch slave cylinder operation could contribute to the "lurch" in clutch engagement.

Not sure what you mean? However, there is some question about whether I will be able to get my van (and its hitch) into the garage at all at this point...but there is no question that I would NOT have enough room to maneuver it around inside if I did! I will have some Unistrut to play with in a few days, so I will decide what to do after that. This is an electric "pallet stacker", btw: What makes it different than a "forklift" is that it requires support underneath the load, so I will need to be able to slide the front wheels of this thing underneath anything sitting on the floor of my garage below the bike shelves. So that means everything there needs to be on legs or wheels or a platform. No problem with workbenches and tool cabinets, but more of a challenge with machine tools such as my bandsaw, drill press, welding cart, future plasma table, lathe, mill, etc. Fortunately, I like planning; unfortunately, more than doing! Ciao, JZH

The last place she probably wants to go is the Netherlands! Ciao, JZH

I bought some of that stuff to build an enclosure for my 3D printer (not yet assembled...). Very cute--compared with the brute utility of Unistrut! Generally, however, aluminum anything is a lot more expensive than steel, plus I'd not really know where to start with calculating the loads and sizes required. I've seen unistrut used in countless (sometimes dangerous) situations, so I'm fairly comfortable using it for the shelving structure. I've ordered some test pieces and brackets, so I will have a better idea soon enough. Yeah, I don't think I want to put a pic of my actual house on t'internet, but it looks something like the house on the left: Mine's not red, not directly on a canal, and is a little taller, but it's a traditional house in a traditional row of Dutch houses like this. Most such houses have had their ground floors converted into modern living areas (from whatever they were originally, such as a retail shop or workshop). Ciao, JZH

Interesting development. Is the air fuel mixture tuned properly with the Power Commander 5? With the amount of mods that you've done it's only possible to guess where things went wrong. Porting the cylinder head is very tricky and can easily be detrimental to performance if done wrong.

You'll have to change your "In My Garage" blurb... Ciao, JZH

Strange. I once had an EBC (I think) on my 750, and both it and the OEM rotor it replaced had huge cut outs to allow the rotor to clear the axle studs. Bit of an oversight on Brembo's part! Ciao, JZH

Does the 1200 have a hollow rear axle? (Most of) the other VFRs do. If you had a pair of jack stands, a small floor jack and a piece of steel rod or bar that fit through the rear axle, you could set the axle on the RH jack stand, lift the bike up enough to rest the steel rod or bar on the LH jack stand and, once the rear is stable, use the floor jack to lift the bike under the exhaust to raise the front wheel off the ground. It shouldn't crush the front exhaust pipes if lifted that way, but the 1200 is a heavy beast... Ciao, JZH

Well, it would have to be really simple! I have been struggling with Fusion just recently (pointlessly re-designing the JD's Garage plasma table plans to my ridiculous specifications), but that is what happens whenever I try to pick up CAD again. But I've never managed to go beyond the CAD to the CAM, so you might need someone who has at least done that bit before... Ciao, JZH

I'm happy I bothered checking the valve clearance even seller told me they were checked about 6k kms ago, have the interval, turned out only cylinder #2 inlet valves was in spec, all other was tight, some awful tight...... Next as I have the radiator off as coolant drained I plan to take off the thermostat housing and give it a fresh paint Even If usually leave some patina this needs fresh paint as looks tatty

https://chatgpt.com/ ?

Fitting a new clutch cover and wanted to check the plates as Ive had a lurching problem where the bike, if held say at lights when coldish with the clutch pulled in, it could give a sudden lurch forward catching me off guard when I move off quicker rather than slower. I've never pulled a clutch apart before and I just wondered if anyone could spot anything untoward in these pics? There's a few scratches on a few of the tangs but nothing looks buggered or how Id not expect it to look and friction plates seem to have a consistent amount of "meat" on them. Bike has done about 50K KMs. Thanks all for any input before I put it all back together.

I have the SW Motech center stand like the one above. Fantastic addition, most maintenance is a breeze! Highly recommended!

Anybody up to convert my chicken scratching hand drawing to CAD and maybe model and STL? Fairly simple stuff. Its been a long time since I did any CAD (Unigraphics, Catia).... I got sucked into management. Thanks

Does the fuel pump prime when with the kill switch at run you switch the key to on ? You should hear it

With RED especially, my experience with ColorRite is... ColorRong

For $77 for the paint, it is expensive but I feel the match would be perfect. It is an option for sure.

Now the dyno run has finally been done, there has been all sorts of rush here so I haven't had time to do it earlier. The result now wasn't quite what I expected. I think the torque curve is good if you don't take that last part into account. Now I have to start figuring out what's causing the power drop after 8000rpm.

Wow! That ColoRite site really is easy to use!! I found the needed base and color touch up pens within seconds!! I thought it would be much more difficult for the fastest color on the 5th gen! Thanks @FromMaine !