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The fuel light on my '95 doesn't come on except at start up, so I know the light works. I just haven't been bothered to fix it, and rely on the fuel gauge.

The fan switch should start the fan around 102C and then should shut off at around 98. This is purely controlled by the temperature switch plugged into one of the radiators. Unless the radiator was partly empty or properly clogged, the system should operate correctly. Maybe you have a faulty switch? The dash temperature reading is from a different sensor (the ECT sensor) on the engine block. The ECT and fan switch are quite independent. With good steady airflow, riding the temp should sit around 78-82 which is the thermostat opening point. It will rise fairly quickly when you are creeping in traffic or stopped and there is limited air flowing through the radiator. After airflow, the thermostat has the biggest influence on running temps. It should stay closed as the engine heats from cold which means the coolant stays in the engine block and the radiator stays cold. When the engine is heated to around 78 the thermostat starts to open and the heated coolant reaches the radiators so they will quickly get too hot to touch. The easiest thermostat check is just to monitor the radiator as the engine warms up from cold. If the radiator stays cold until around 78 then quickly gets hot, the thermostat is good. If the radiator slowly heats as the engine warms up, then the thermostat is probably stuck part open and needs to be replaced.

You can install a new speedometer face https://www.ebay.com/itm/263747662416?itmmeta=01HZ0E2CXZTDZA42H0FCS2DRS5&hash=item3d6895f250:g:rpAAAOSwZQRYaZz6

Hi there. I have just purchased a VFR 800 model imported from Spain. it is a 1999 model and now resides in the U.K. how do I go about changing the speedometer from KMH to MPH? note: the speedo is analogue not digital. Many thanks.

I am just wondering what the correct cooling cycle is? Recently my cooling fan has been coming on around 92C and the fan doesn't go off until the bike is switched off. Also temperatures seem to rise quickly up to 80-90C, especially if stationary or slow riding. Today I hadn't ridden in 2 weeks, but as soon as I hit the run switch, the fan came on. Temps stayed below 90C (fluctuated between 75-90C) for the entire 1 hour ride, but I think the fan stayed on for the whole ride. Ambient temps are around 17C and I flushed the cooling system last year with deionised water and vinegar and filled with new coolant with no issue. Could a bad radiator cap cause this? Is there any way to test this? Anything else I can check? Any help appreciated.

Yes, the collars are steel. Bolt is an M8 flange, but I don’t have the length and shank dimensions.

My suspicion would be it's similar to the NC30/35 which are as follows. NC30 18° BTDC @ idle -> 36-37° BTDC @ 12k NC35 15° BTDC @ idle -> 36° BTDC @ 7.4k-7.6k In comparison RC24 86-88 15° BTDC @ idle -> 37° BTDC @ 3.3k RC24 89 12° BTDC @ idle -> 35° BTDC @ 4k

The biggest thing IMO is the downpipes. It's a royal pain to replace and Motad (which made replacements) long since gone under. If they're not really good then I'd walk away and find one where they've either already been replaced or are good and solid. Other thing is brakes, you can still get Honda parts for the later 88/89 bikes (pads, compatible if not identical discs etc) but not for the 86/87. Aftermarket pads are available but quite limited, unsure on discs. So check the state of the discs on them. With the 86/87 though is tyre choice is quite limited. For that reason the tyres may be quite old, check the date codes carefully if only to bargain them down! You don't really want 10+ year old tyres for example. Beyond that just the common items applicable to all bikes of that age, check tank condition (not easy to seal the tank if it's leaking), check for rust on the subframe etc etc.

Previous owner looks to have used the socket bolts instead of the long flange bolts for the top rack. Do you know the proper length for the flange bolts? Cheers!

I was hoping it was for reverse gear.

That's great, thanks! I have some aluminium ones but I am guessing those collars should be made of steel?

Length: 16mm Inner diameter: 9mm Outer diameter: 16mm I used a drop of handgrip cement to hold each collar to the underside of the top rack to help with aligning the bolts and holes.

What a patient man - it only took how many back & forths to get an answer?

Thanks for sharing your repair. Always great when someone comes up with a fix to keep our old bikes 100% functional. I would only note that 3rd gen fuel gauge and low fuel light are extremely pessimistic. At least they were on my '91 and '92 VFR750s. Their low fuel lamp lit just when the gauge hit E, but the tank was about 1/3 full. Seems that Honda never got the calibration right.

What a lovely shot, Dutchy, I must have missed it back in February.

I was hoping it was for "Prepare Antipersonel TASER". That'd be more useful.

Looks handy for when you do a good job. 🙂

Black/White wire must have 12v at Injectors and Ignition Coils. Refer the Wiring Diagram! THE BLACK/WHITE WIRE FROM THE ESR IS THE MAIN 12V FOR THE EFI SYSTEM.

That's why I asked you 3 TIMES. What Plugs did you fit???? They are the WRONG Type! Should have fitted Iridium NGK IMR9B-9H Refer the Service Manual You Downloaded !!! Have You Looked at the Service Manual?????

Hi all....Looking to get this ECU tune for the 7gen done by Sabsteef. Just wondering if anyone in Aussie land has had it done, and still has the cable they'd like to sell / loan? I'm located northside Brissy, if anyone is local. Cheers / TIA!

Then you Don't have the Security wire you thought you had! That Pink wire at the ECM would be for the Speed Sensor.

There's a problem if I put this spark plugs,

I gotta question, the Fuel injectors got 12 v? I got the service manual and not see the voltage , remember the video , I put some gasoline and the bike it starts it up

I don't see it,