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About Fastdruid

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  • In My Garage:
    VFR750FJ (with FK engine)
    VFR750FK "Test bed"
    VFR750FG "The Project"

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  1. Not sure on that model VFR but on the RVF400 they are stretch bolts hence they should be replaced each time if you torque them up properly. You can actually feel them stretch as you do them up. I instead tighten them to the lower VFR400 torque setting and locktite them so I don't need to replace them every time the calipers come off.
  2. I forgot to add, if you *do* use the CBR1000RR sensor then you will also need the connector for it, it uses a 3 pin connector rather than the single bullet (and earth to the thermostat) of the original.
  3. You can't. There isn't one. I searched long and hard (or if there is please let me know!) The original P/N 37750-PC1-004 sensor is 1/8, the newer type one is M10 and you just can't get that kind of sensor adaptor. You *may* be able to drill out the original but it looks to me as if there is not enough metal in that area. A converter would certainly be easier. The relevant resistances are: Original sensor is 60 Deg C - 104OHM 85 Deg C - 43.9OHM 110 Deg C 20.3OHM 120 Deg C 16.1OHM CBR1000RR8 is 50 Deg C - 6.8-7.4kOHM 80 Dec C - 2.1-2.7kOHM Here is a wiring diagram for the CBR1000RR4-5 which is the same pin-out for the clocks (but an easier to read diagram) and the CBR1000RR8 as well as the pins for the clocks labelled (taken from a Firestorm forum hence the reference to the VTR1000) as the wiring diagram doesn't get that far! CBR1000RR_08_USA_Wiring_Diagram.pdf Wiring Diagram sc57 CBR1000RR 04-05.pdf
  4. Yes, leave the fan switch alone. The newer Honda's use a dual sensor so that both the ECU and gauges can get a temperature reading. I'm not sure what size the original sensor is on the RC36, you may struggle to replace it as the new one is iirc M10
  5. Steering damper as well... Although can't say I've ever thought the VFR needed one! On the FJ I've had it shake it's head once in ~40k... on well worn tyres, with a squared off rear accelerating hard while banked well over and on broken tarmac! Might be the geometry is a bit off, or might just be for style.
  6. Looks like early-ish fireblade front end. Unsure if has the 16 or 17 wheel on though. Certainly better than stock. Has a CBR rear wheel as well (not sure on width). Fox rear shock, looks like a nice exhaust from what little can be seen. Swingarm has been braced. Original mirrors missing. Clutch and brake master cylinders non-original. No ideas on price as I'm not based in the US! It looks quite a nice bike if you're not bothered about originality.
  7. It was a comfy bike, although with somewhat of a disconnect between steering and turning. It could be hustled pretty well as well, just wasn't particularly *fun*. Mine was fairly sorted with a 17in front and very decent brakes as well. I would say it was comfier than my VFR at slow speed due to the weight on your wrists at slow speed with the VFR but the VFR was better as it got faster and the wind took the weight off the wrists. My wife said it was like riding a clowns bike, like a sofa with handlebars, although that is possibly a bit harsh as she rides a RVF400R, *everything* feels soft and wobbly after one of those! The VFR feels like a big red bus after riding it. 🤣
  8. The later (post 96) TDM850 was the same engine as the TRX850, although mine was the earlier one. The TRX was better than the TDM but not by much. I was stupendously disappointed with the early VTEC when I test rode one. I hated the way it felt when the VTEC would kick in and out mid bend...but it depends on your riding style. Some people don't mind it.
  9. I had a TDM850 (same engine as the TRX850) for a period while rebuilding my VFR and there really is no comparison to the VFR750. The TDM was dull and slow, the engine torque curve was boring, in comparison the VFR manages to have a whole load of low down torque *and* a top end *hit*. The VFR was faster *everywhere* If we're talking twins, I've also ridden a TRX850 and I preferred the SV650 again due to the drab engine. This is where we get back onto the VFR, my wife said of the first time on the back of the VFR, "it felt just like the SV... Except at the point I was expecting you to change up it took off". Now the VFR800 doesn't quite have the same torque as the 750 low down but it's not far off, I don't think you'd notice the difference unless you tried them back to back.
  10. I have some footage of myself (on track) passing a GSXR1000 while on a RVF400. He was hard on the brakes while I was still full throttle. 🤣 Actual pass was about 6:09
  11. Sub 60 (and assuming you're in the correct gear) the VFR has more torque and power *at the wheel* than some modern litre bikes because they're all geared to do 100mph+ in 1st while the VFR does 56mph. So in the slower stuff it can have more "punch" out of the corner (and the 750's are actually better than the 800's), especially as with litre bikes you can be lazy and be in a higher gear than "ideal" but on the downside they're heavy and doesn't handle as well as the modern race reps. Of course when the speed rises the VFR will be utterly outclassed and if the riders don't know what they're doing and are in the wrong gear(s) then the litre bike will have the edge.
  12. There are two OE styles...86-87 "stalks" and 88-89 "flush". The US didn't get the 88-89 model VFR750F so missed out on the second style but even then, the OE ones are colour coded and look totally different. Like these ones. ] Those ones look more like these generic "fairing" indicators. They're 100% not original and while there are genuine reasons for a respray after 30 years (mine was originally red but is looking awfully pink these days) alongside all the other signs it really does look like a bad aftermarket fairing replacement.
  13. In addition to what has already been noted, the fairing indicator is non-original (should be on a stalk) as is the screen and it is missing the writing on the top fairing which alongside the poor fitment as BluRoad says indicates a badly fitted aftermarket one. I strongly suspect it is a VFR700 not a VFR750F. Get them to send you the start of the engine/chassis number (or site of the plate on the side of the chassis), if both start RC24 then it's a 750, if they start RC26 then it's a 700 (or the plate says its 700) Here is a RC24 / 750 plate for example. I *think* the 700's should state RC26 here instead (and will be showing ~700cc) Personally unless you get it very cheap (and I don't know US prices for comparison but it seems pricey to me) this looks more like a parts bike to me.
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