Fastdruid

Bit odd to break there. Normally it breaks on the bottom. I'd say maybe is rack related. I ended up bonding my tail light to the plastic so it became one item. I'm going to have a bit of a reinforcement session when I get a chance, fix the mounts (front ones are both cracked, rear where the grab rail fixed as well)) and bond some metal around so it won't break again (short of destroying the entire thing).

Sort the suspension out and 100% yes. So, I used to commute all year round on my 88 (between15-20 years ago now) and I'm going to say I wouldn't do the same again now. I'd take it occasionally when its nice but not day in, day out. Yes they are lighter and quicker than the later 750 models, I've been on a trackday with a number of other VFRs and my 88 breezed past the RC36's on the straight. No difference with the 800 VTEC though, absolutely level pegging, maybe he had a tiny bit more right at the top but it was negligible. It is however *still* heavy. 229Kg fully wet. I really feel it manoeuvring round the garage etc vs the other bikes. Onto why not, firstly tyres. The older bikes have a 16/18 front in narrow sizes, while this makes them more nimble than the later bikes it means limited availability of decent tyres and they wear more rapidly. If you're commuting expect to get through a *LOT* of tyres. Secondly, maintenance. They're meant to be serviced every ~3750miles. Earlier bikes need every 7.5k the following: Valve clearances Carb balancing Spark plugs Oil/Filter Thirdly, spares. Routine parts are getting scarcer, when I ran mine you could still get pretty much everything from Honda but now you can't. While you can get parts it means many are aftermarket, no guarantee they're any good and for OEM parts no longer here in a day or two, you could potentially be off the road for some time while waiting for a mundane part. Fourthly, fuel consumption. IMO they're pretty poor! I got roughly 34mpg at best and low 20's at worst. Other newer bikes I've ridden have been substantially better (I ran a TDM850 for a while to commute on, that got 45mpg! While nailing it everywhere...it was slow though) Finally, corrosion. If it's a nice bike it's going to be scabby in no time if you're riding it through winter. Here was mine mid winter!

Bitubo do at least a 88-89 specific shock as well as at least one other (maybe two) for the 86/87. I had one i bought for mine and I was very much not impressed but I'm not sure if it was just duff. It was very very cheap (old stock sell off on Ebay, iirc was about £10 from M&P as no one else bid) and by the time I fitted it was way too late to return it.

I was very happy with the BT45's on mine so doubtless the BT46 would be a good choice if you're sticking with std wheels. Although I've now gone with wider wheels and radials. When I was contemplating them they didn't have the correct speed ratings available so I think *all* BT46's are likely to be pretty new.

I've PM'd you where you can get the Honda service manual from!

When I revived mine the fuel pump leaked...I bought a new Chinese one...which immediately blew the fuse on trying it. Turned out to be wired backwards. I ended up taking the points out of the leaking one and fitting them to the original pump (that I'd replaced with the current one but kept because of learning you could replace the points on them). Anyway, its worth keeping the old pumps for that reason (unless leaking) or the diaphragm itself has split (ie it's still ticking but not actually pumping). You can get aftermarket replacement points or buy cheap "identical but for the ends" pumps and swap out the internals.

Generally it's never a good idea to split the carbs from the base plate...unless you have that very issue! What I've done whenever I've taken a look at carbs is set float heights etc is to rig up a small fuel pot and put a reasonable amount of head of fuel onto it to ensure they're not leaking anywhere. Then again if my current one starts to leak I've got a good set I rebuilt from two bad sets (coincidently one where someone had split them off the base and not put them back correctly!)

Looks like http://www.hondavfr.org is dead and intermittently links to malware. Please could you remove from the list @crepitus and your post @SEBSPEED Motad also unfortunately dead @rctwentyfour Some other ones to add. General info on Honda Part numbers - I use this list reasonably regularly to work out what fits what and where parts come from! https://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/BHondaPCNs.htm More online 'fiches https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle Web!ke - Often cheaper to buy OEM parts from Japan *INCLUDING SHIPPING* than it is here in the UK https://japan.webike.net/HONDA/VFR750F+Interceptor/OEM+Parts For suspension PDQ - UK distributors for Racetech (use the calculators on the racetech site to work out what you need). https://pdq1.com/

I was re-reading this and realised I'm not 100% clear on if the float needles were leaking or the bowl gaskets were leaking. Both are common issues (particularly with ethanol in modern fuel). Anyway, this place hasn't got the bowl gaskets listed...but the do have replacement float valve needles for the 700 if you haven't found any already. https://nrp-carbs.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=common/productsearch&brand=VFR700F I should also mention that generally (and on the assumption they're not worn) you're better off keeping the stock needles/jets etc and just replace any perished rubber bits. Many aftermarket kits are junk. I would favour buying Honda OEM parts for the needles etc where I could (even if s/h).

Very much a "bitsa" and not IMO in a good way! My opinion is that if it's had an impact big enough to need replacing that much it's not worth it unless *really* cheap! Also on the subject of working out early or late even if bits have been changed note the gear lever. The shaft comes out in different places so the early one is straight while the later one is cranked up and then across.

Different heat shield. That's the shock heat shield (#13 on the diagram below). I'm referring to #15 (50177-ML7-920 "GUARD, RR. HEAD HEAT") Shown on the '86 diagram because they update the diagrams for the older models based off the newer ones... but not listed in the parts list. And to make it clearer, here is my photo again with it highlighted.

Hmmm, no heatshield on the back of the engine between the frame and head (I initially thought it was "missing" but looking at the fiche and appears the 86 didn't have one, or at least isn't listed). I wonder if there was an excess of heat there and that was an attempt to fix it, ultimately if the heat is coming from the exhaust there it's going to be pretty pointless though. Mine here for context.

Very bizarre. It looks like it's kind of trying to keep the fuel line off the head but why I don't know. I can only assume it was an attempt to fix a perceived problem.

Well, thing is that they hydraulic system is the only thing in common between the original and replacement engine *AND* the only thing I've changed in the re-commissioning (where the slip became worse).

Thanks for the offer but the EBC ones made no bloody difference.