Fastdruid

I've PM'd you where you can get the Honda service manual from!

When I revived mine the fuel pump leaked...I bought a new Chinese one...which immediately blew the fuse on trying it. Turned out to be wired backwards. I ended up taking the points out of the leaking one and fitting them to the original pump (that I'd replaced with the current one but kept because of learning you could replace the points on them). Anyway, its worth keeping the old pumps for that reason (unless leaking) or the diaphragm itself has split (ie it's still ticking but not actually pumping). You can get aftermarket replacement points or buy cheap "identical but for the ends" pumps and swap out the internals.

Generally it's never a good idea to split the carbs from the base plate...unless you have that very issue! What I've done whenever I've taken a look at carbs is set float heights etc is to rig up a small fuel pot and put a reasonable amount of head of fuel onto it to ensure they're not leaking anywhere. Then again if my current one starts to leak I've got a good set I rebuilt from two bad sets (coincidently one where someone had split them off the base and not put them back correctly!)

Looks like http://www.hondavfr.org is dead and intermittently links to malware. Please could you remove from the list @crepitus and your post @SEBSPEED Motad also unfortunately dead @rctwentyfour Some other ones to add. General info on Honda Part numbers - I use this list reasonably regularly to work out what fits what and where parts come from! https://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/BHondaPCNs.htm More online 'fiches https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle Web!ke - Often cheaper to buy OEM parts from Japan *INCLUDING SHIPPING* than it is here in the UK https://japan.webike.net/HONDA/VFR750F+Interceptor/OEM+Parts For suspension PDQ - UK distributors for Racetech (use the calculators on the racetech site to work out what you need). https://pdq1.com/

I was re-reading this and realised I'm not 100% clear on if the float needles were leaking or the bowl gaskets were leaking. Both are common issues (particularly with ethanol in modern fuel). Anyway, this place hasn't got the bowl gaskets listed...but the do have replacement float valve needles for the 700 if you haven't found any already. https://nrp-carbs.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=common/productsearch&brand=VFR700F I should also mention that generally (and on the assumption they're not worn) you're better off keeping the stock needles/jets etc and just replace any perished rubber bits. Many aftermarket kits are junk. I would favour buying Honda OEM parts for the needles etc where I could (even if s/h).

Very much a "bitsa" and not IMO in a good way! My opinion is that if it's had an impact big enough to need replacing that much it's not worth it unless *really* cheap! Also on the subject of working out early or late even if bits have been changed note the gear lever. The shaft comes out in different places so the early one is straight while the later one is cranked up and then across.

Different heat shield. That's the shock heat shield (#13 on the diagram below). I'm referring to #15 (50177-ML7-920 "GUARD, RR. HEAD HEAT") Shown on the '86 diagram because they update the diagrams for the older models based off the newer ones... but not listed in the parts list. And to make it clearer, here is my photo again with it highlighted.

Hmmm, no heatshield on the back of the engine between the frame and head (I initially thought it was "missing" but looking at the fiche and appears the 86 didn't have one, or at least isn't listed). I wonder if there was an excess of heat there and that was an attempt to fix it, ultimately if the heat is coming from the exhaust there it's going to be pretty pointless though. Mine here for context.

Very bizarre. It looks like it's kind of trying to keep the fuel line off the head but why I don't know. I can only assume it was an attempt to fix a perceived problem.

Well, thing is that they hydraulic system is the only thing in common between the original and replacement engine *AND* the only thing I've changed in the re-commissioning (where the slip became worse).

Thanks for the offer but the EBC ones made no bloody difference.

What do you use?

Oh, one other thing I did see was someone (who had clutch slip after changing to Putoline Ester-Tech) was to clean all the friction plates in petrol and lightly sand the steels with scotchbrite and swap back to Sport4R. I guess I can try that too (apart from the swap to Sport4R as I'm already running that!) 🤣

Backstory: Way back in the dim and distant past I used to use my 1988 VFR for commuting. When it was cold the clutch would slip when given full throttle...but only until it warmed up properly. Swapped the engine out (for an FK) for reasons I won't go into now, the only things remaining original was the hydraulic system and the (bike specific) oil (Motul 5100). It still slipped. I'd bought a brand new clutch set (OEM Honda) for the original engine so figured I'd swap them in even though when I checked the old plates they were all in spec. Still did it. Gave up and figured as it only did it while cold I could live with it. Mostly for child and job reasons (I'm now 99.9% WFH) it got parked up for ~11 years. Got it back on the road last year (thread here) ... but now the clutch is slipping on full throttle in the lower gears *all* the time. I'd already replaced the clutch master cylinder (because it was corroded internally). Although the lever isn't original now I've confirmed it's not jamming on slightly. It was a rebuilt M/C and so aftermarket parts. I went through it, checked the heights and conditions of all the plates. Picked the thickest of the friction ones and steels. Replaced the OEM springs (which were still within spec but only just) with new EBC ones (so in theory stiffer too). I swapped oil brand too (to Putoline Sport 4R). I realised I'd missed out the gasket from between the sprocket cover and engine. Replaced that. Double checked fluid was returning in the M/C and the little hole wasn't blocked. Still did it. So now we're left with the only original parts in the entire system being the following. 1) Clutch line - HEL aftermarket. Should be good but I guess there is a chance it's broken down internally. 2) Clutch slave cylinder. Beyond that less likely but could be the "same" issue on the replacement engine which means the following parts. 1) Baskets, pressure plate and release bearing. 2) Pushrod and/or seal. Finally I guess the aftermarket M/C seal/piston kit may not be 100% and a chance isn't letting fluid return quickly enough (which may be why it's now doing it all the time rather than just when cold). Equally while I don't think it's the case I guess the lever may be impinging very slightly. Sticking an original lever isn't too big a deal to do a back to back test with. My initial thoughts are to replace the clutch slave as right now that's one of the two parts that is original to the start of the issue, relatively high mileage (77k) and rebuild the M/C again with an OEM kit. Web!ke had a brand new OEM slave (delivered) for half the UK price so I ordered one of those. If that doesn't solve it I'll replace swap the original clutch line back in to test as well. Any other thoughts before I start swapping more parts?

The picture was of an A2-70. That's stainless not zinc!