wiremanjon

Convertibars.com

Honda requires the caliper bolts to be replaced every time you take them off. The only visual sign these bolts are different is a little dry thread locker compound on the threads. Well I’ve read the arguments and I’ve never replaced mine. I’ve had my calipers off 30 times already and yesterday I was replacing my bolts after redoing my fork seals and fresh oil. I was using a torque wrench set to 23ft/lbs. first bolt tightened and clicked. Second bolt never clicked but went until it pulled apart. I had reached the useful life cycle of the bolt apparently. I do usually apply a bit of thread lock blue to these bolts. So I’m off to the dealership in the hopes he has them in stock Tuesday. I’ll get a few extras. Sorry to revive an old argument but it did fail and I did chafe when my friend suggested I made a rookie mistake. As far as I’m concerned, it was the fastener that failed not my mechanical abilities. Unless my torque wrench is very out of spec or threadlock radically changes the torque setting required, I’ll just replace my two right hand caliper bolts and move on!

Be very careful to reinstall the spacer behind the bottom bolt every time you reinstall the slider. Don’t ask me how I know! 😳

I don’t know if it’ll be a direct replacement fit. I’m going to guess not, but with enough determination you’ll figure out how to overcome the hurdles and make it work with a little modification and ingenuity. Go for it.

Me neither, I zero my trip meter at every fill up and usually gas up again around 180 miles or so. I should one day take it past 200 miles, but I haven’t done that to date.

I went with the Ebc hh’s. They’re similar to the stock pads. The stock pads are very good in my opinion. I think I actually like the feel of less bite better, easier to control the nuanced way I use the brakes lightly.

Oil cooler damaged, radiator damaged( you’ll need a front mounted radiator anyway for a street fighter), are forks damaged? Does it run? Offer $500 tops. That’d be my advice.

2006’s and up are less problematic. 2014’s (8th)are even better than the 6th generation. I’m led to believe. It’s basically the same motor. For the 6th generation VFR all you have to do is replace the rectifier with a 847A Shindengen rectifier from roadstercycle.com and your good to go.

I tried these, they work quite well. I did however decide not to use the rubber boots with them. They’re aimed well and very much brighter than the halogens. BEAMTECH H4 LED Headlight Bulb, 50W 6500K 8000Lumens Extremely Brigh (9003 Hi/Lo) CSP Chips Conversion Kit

Used a maxi-sized 30 amp fuse holder to replace the B fuse. Mine was getting discolored.

I just did my forks and installed his BD-40 shock as well. I’m having trouble getting my sag numbers. My bike has 55mm of sag in the forks before I even sit on it. It rides well but I’m giving up too much travel. Jamie says to investigate as this shouldn’t be. What was your mistake? Perhaps we missed a step as well, though I adjusted it exactly as written up.

You should.

Hello, I bought Jamie’s fork cartridge kit and BD-40 shock for my 2006 Abs. I just installed the shock. Scratching my head over how to mount the remote canister. Anyone have any good ideas and pictures? I found one solution by someone, I guess this is my best bet?

It happened to me while riding last summer. I was at the end of a 1000 mile 4 day trip, following my buddy on his 1998 VFR. Mines a 2006 VFR and my bike got stuck in a gear and wouldn’t come out for about 30 seconds. I was finally able to free it up and it’s been fine ever since. My buddy has 117,000 miles on his VFR and he said “ yeah, that can happen sometimes”!!!