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    '98 VFR800 x2

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  1. 5th and 6th gens have 3 piston sliding calipers, but only 2 of them are actuated by the brake lever (middle is actuated by the rear linked system). With cbr600f4/929/954 calipers you get 4 pistons and they are rigidly mounted to the forks (not sliders). If you do the VTR fork lowers you'll have to de-link because of the change in calipers.
  2. Ziffer, I see you are in Northern Washington. I'm in Portland and go to Seattle semi-regularly to visit family and just removed the headers off a 1998. Just another option if you want to go forward with finding 98-99 headers.
  3. You can still buy new ones for the 1999-2009 models, just get ready to drain your wallet. Not sure why the 1998 has a different part number than all the other 5th and 6th gen years, I can't imagine they changed the engine case enough that the newer part won't fit. Looks like used ones are cheap on ebay, so its worth the chance of getting a bad one. It doesn't sound like starter motors on VFR's are prone to failure, so the used ones are probably fine.
  4. The housing of the one on the left does look ever so slightly larger, though it could be the angle of the camera. Thanks Duc, I think that's about as definitive as I could have hoped for.
  5. I'm curious about this as well. I've "heard" around the forums that they are compatible, but haven't heard anyone say "yes, I put a 6th gen water pump on a 5th gen". It looks like the drawing of the 5th gen water pump in the parts fiche was reused for the 6th gen. What's strange is the cover gasket it different (#8 in diagram): 5th - 19226-ML7-000 6th - 19226-MCP-900 However, I can't tell the difference between the pictures of them on partzilla. The ML7 gasket is used on a bunch of older Hondas (all VFRs until 2002, magna, cbr600f, cbr900), and the MCP part is used only on 6th and 8th gen VFRs. My guess is that Honda made a minor change to the impeller, so the housing needed to be changed slightly (larger maybe?). They did do quite a few tweaks on the 6th gen to alleviate the cooling issue, wouldn't surprise me if they tweaked the water pump as well.
  6. Yeah, his site has lots of good information on the carb'ed VFRs. I read his shop blog every time he posts and there are some good general maintenance tips that apply to all bikes, not just the older ones.
  7. Well, looks like I may have just been a little impatient because the order shipped yesterday. I admit I've been a little jumpy lately with parts availability, and also I have a trackday next month that I'd like to take this bike to.
  8. Well everyone, I pulled the studs two weekends ago and they were a little crunchy when spinning the nuts on and off. As soon as I felt that I knew I had to replace them. I ordered them online and now the distributor says that they are on backorder with no ETA. Sounds like everyone that got the WiLD headers went out and bought all the VFR exhaust studs in stock! I tried to cross reference similar Honda parts, but didn't come up with anything (all the CBRs use M8s). If I really have to I can get some 18-8 stainless fully threaded studs and use those.
  9. It is a little hard to justify cheaping out on $65 worth of hardware (studs - $21 and nuts - $44) when the headers I'm going to use them on were $900.
  10. It appears to just be surface rust, but I took a few pictures. First one is as I found it, and second one is after using a brass brush with WD-40. All the other studs look about the same. Looks usable to me, I'll probably just use 'em. For some reason though the nuts on the #2 cylinder were different, I guess just another clue to this bike's past. The other nuts looked alright and probably just need a quick clean.
  11. Well, I finally got the headers off this evening. I ended up just trying to twist them using towing straps (I was pulling vertically before) and that seemed to break it free. It still took quite an effort to get the two downpipes off after that (another hour or so) but the job is done. I ended up having to remove the right side rearset by removing the swingarm nut to give better access to the header pipes. One trick I did was to put the hook of the towing strap into the header opening and wrap the strap around my shoulders so that I could pull vertically on the downpipe while pushing down on the collector with my foot. This seemed to deform the graphite gasket enough so that the downpipe could start to slide out with a lot of forceful wiggling. I think the takeaway here is that you won't be able to pull the downpipe straight out, you'll need to deform the gasket to make room for it to be wiggled out. I actually had a similar problem with removing the muffler on my 58k mile bike, and unfortunately this also means that the gasket will be destroyed and you'll have to replace it. Thanks for the help everyone. One more question for you guys. Should I replace the exhaust studs and bolts with new ones or just slap the old ones back in there with the WiLD headers? All of them came off easily enough, but the studs have some moderate surface rust.
  12. That's a good idea. I'll try using heat tonight when I get home.
  13. That's what I used. I sprayed a bunch to loosen the clamps as well, so there is a good amount of PB-Blaster in the joint already. I'm a big believer in PB-Blaster. First time using it was on an f4i rear master pushrod (also going on this bike), the locknut was basically seized to the brake rod joint and I was starting to round the corners on it. Let it sit overnight in PB-Blaster and it basically came right apart. Now I spray it on every stubborn fastener before trying to really lean on the wrench.
  14. Thanks cogs. I'll give them one more try tonight, but if I can't at least crack the seal then I'll just cut them off. At least it will just destroy the rear downpipes, not the full system.
  15. Hi all, I'm removing the stock exhaust off my 1998 5th gen to install the WiLD headers and can't get the rear downpipes separated. Do you guys have any tips on how to un-stick these things? I've tried spraying a bunch of penetrating oil in the joints and pulling on them with towing straps but they won't budge. Its so tight in there, I can't get good leverage to pull on them or try to twist them. I have a propane torch, but am wary to use it because of all the plastic nearby. I'm not opposed to just cutting above the joints, but that seems like a waste of good parts to me and would like to avoid doing that.
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