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  2. Wasn't a k&n filter, it's a paper hiflo filter! A lot of dirt has got passed though, not necessarily past that filter mind but over the years. dB killer will have to stay, I borrowed it to use of my aprilia on a track day once, rode the honda and it was deafening! Not a huge fan of it tbf, right at the bottom of the list that though lol. Someone's had the snorkel off, I might get one actually. Again, down the bottom of the list lol. The manifold rubbers seem ok, bit hard and the clamps are rusty. Don't think they were leaking though. The butterflies were definitely shut, did make sure of that. I should have covered the throttle bodies before I stripped it apart to see if that affected the running, if it stalled I'd know it was definitely allowing a significant amount of air through. Update for today, the ultrasonic cleaner got them very clean, so clean it took the rest of the coating off the bores! I'll have to try and recoat it with something, I think I'll try some of this molykote stuff and see what sort of finish I get. I'm reluctant to buy new throttle bodies as they're all old now and there's no guarantee the replacement will be much better than they were, before I stripped it all off anyway!
  3. Today
  4. Thank you, going to try this. 🙏🏻
  5. If you had the ignition switched on while the airbox /sensors were unplugged then you will have a number of saved faults that will show up in the blinky light. I'd suggest clearing the codes page 5-7 Self-Diagnosis Reset Procedure then trying to start the bike again, it should then tell you what faults remain. My only suggestion regarding starting would be to check the engine is not flooded; wind the throttle fullly open and run the starter motor for a few seconds; the EFI system recognises this and will stop any injection to help clear the flood (if any). I'd also spring for some new spark plugs if you've not already done so.
  6. hey guys, hope you are all doing good, i think i have aquired all the stuff im gonna need to try and do the headgaskets. gonna try and tackle it myself with a couple of people on standby just in case i get stuck. just waiting for the new head bolts to come should be in a few days. the only thing i dont have is a manual which is fine as they just confuse me anyway. the only bit of info i would need is the torque settings for the head bolts and torque pattern. hopefully gonna make a start in a week or two once work quietens down. gonna go check out a few youtube videos and try and get as much info as i can before i make a start. and worse case if i balls it up it will be an engine swap next year lol
  7. Fuel cut off switch wiring issues
  8. I use these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/essentials-sy5002-white-black-pressure-sprayer-5ltr/7490x 1 for engine oil. 1 for trans oil (ATF). 1 for coolant. 1 for diluted car shampoo. For oil filling, just remove lance & you're good to go, no messing about with funnels & they pump uphill. Label em, or it's OMG WTF did I just do. B&Q do a variety of PVC hose or eBay, I prefer clear hose on my fillers. Also have a hand pump vacuum bottle 3ltr for (Dot 4). Save a ton of mess for little outlay.
  9. Cut switch works and pump now engages. I know fuel is going through the rails. It just wont start 😞 any help apprecaited 20251110_154448.mp4
  10. Everyone. Hope your all good. My VFR was sat around for approx 18 months till i needed to get it going again. The fuel pump had died so this was replaced. However, it now wont start. It will turn over but wont kick in. My initial thoughts was the fuel injectors being clogged. So i stripped down to the fuel rails . As per the picture. I have had to sort some wiring on the baro sensor and the fuel relay.which was corroded and loose. I have now put the bike into servicw mode with a jumper wire... i will attach a vid of this. Just need somw advice as the FI is throwing up allsorts, but i think it may be because i have removed the airbox etc. 20251110_154022.mp4
  11. Don't have any spare tubing but next time..
  12. I just have a short piece of clear tubing that fits on the end of the funnel. For the trans/diff in the race car we have garden sprayers with the nozzles removed.
  13. My new garage finally has the electrics fitted so I'm in a position to start servicing my bikes. First is my 14 VFR1200F. She's hardly been ridden in the last 18 months so today I changed the oil & oil filter and replaced the final drive oil. I had to improvise to get the final drive into the vertical filler hole so I heated and bent the pipe of one of my spare funnels. Has anyone else done something different/better? Next is replacing the brake & clutch fluids and finally the coolant.
  14. Based on the experience with my own 1200, the preload adjuster on the shock may have lost its fluid; I don't know where it goes, but the same happens on the ST1300 that uses a similar hydraulic preload adjuster setup. You can tell for sure if you wind the adjuster right out to minimum and then start winding in until you hit some strong resistance. If its more than 1/2 to 1 turn, then the adjuster has lost oil. With little or no oil, the back of the bike will sit much lower than it should and make steering feel very lazy. Fixing this is no big deal: Loosen the banjo bolt while the adjuster is still mounted, then remove the adjuster from its frame mount. Now remove the banjo fully (keep a rag handy) and keep the open hose as high as you can so you don't drain the hose. Take the adjuster and wind the knob right out, then push the piston in as far as you can through the banjo hole using a blunt tool (e.g. allen key end); drain any old oil out Fill the adjuster carefully (I used a small syringe) with oil and let any bubbles rise and top-off, I had fork oil handy so used that. Reconnect the banjo and snug it down, then wind the preload fully in, then fully back out; this encourages any air to come back from the cylinder on the shock to the adjuster. Now repeat the adjuster removal, piston movement and refilling, let bubbles out, top-off, and reassemble the parts. With this done, I can now see a whole cm of the spring collar moved out of the hydraulic cylinder on the shock that was not there before, and the bike has a much better rear attitude. In conjunction with a new front tyre, my 1200 is now a great handling bike. Note that none of the above affects the oil inside the shock absorber, just the oil in the hydraulic preload adjuster.
  15. Spring came off the Ohlins shock for a 5th gen. Please check Ohlins for x-ref on spring rate and maybe any other applications. Spring number 1092-69/170. Free + $15 for shipping in North America.
  16. Yesterday
  17. I'm too scared to open that link on my work computer, but I was quite taken with Pete "Maverick" Mitchell's accommodation in the last Top Gun...
  18. So if the starter valves are all moving freely but the starter valves are all slackened off (closed valves, no tension on the adjusting nut) then you must have a significant source of air from somewhere else. Maybe it is obvious but is there slack in the throttle cable so this is not holding the throttles open? I also had a brain-fart once and got a vacuum hose trapped in the fixed throttle stop under the throttle body (underside, right front) that stopped the butterflies fully closing after I replaced a thermostat. Otherwise, I'd be looking for some significant vacuum leaks in the hoses. Or maybe the rubber boots on the inlets have got cracks? I recall that you should be able to seal off the throttle bore with your hand and have no air passing through the butterfly, as all should be entering via the starter valve.
  19. While trying to find Dirk Pitt's hangar house online:
  20. You should see a Gen 1 Fazer 1000's "Pair valve setup, proper dogs dinner/octupus pipework mishmash, nightmare to get at plugs, mine's long since been junked & blanked off. Genuine K&N's have their emblem cast into the silicone section, no emblem, its a Chinesium copy. If you're lucky, you've got a sprint filter, strongly doubt it by how much filth's got passed the filter. If you can get on with the Helibars, keep em, they're silly money, scrutinise the welds with a magnifying glass as they're know to crack if bikes been over scuffed clutch cover fins, bike's defo been over on right side. With Helibars you might need longer cables, stock cables weren't any use when I fitted a conventional bar setup, never had Heli-bars, but they do look pretty tall. Re: (Pair valve system) all of it can be junked, blanked off, cap off reed valves stubs or fit new CNC covers, I've a contact that machines em up & sells em on eBay, cheap too. Flapper does naff all, bike will run better without it. They all run lumpy & a bit woolly below 3,000rpm even when everything's correctly setup, uneven firing order etc, it'll run better with decibel killer removed if using a sports slip-on can, it's an over square motor, loves to be revved & happier at higher rpm, Iridium plugs if funds allow, check gaps, plugs get their earth from cyl head thread, use only a tiny smear of anti-seize on plugs, Halfrauds usually sell em discounted in a sale (NGK CR9 EHIX-9) Leave snorkel in situ, it'll run better. Check rubber throttle body mounting rubbers are still supple enough to actually form an air tight seal when clamped up, could be dragging air in? Tourmax are my go too brand, same spec as OEM at a fraction of the price.
  21. There's a few "bullet" connectors involved around the handlebars, and you could simply have a dry joint on one of them, so your plan seems sound, pull the connectors apart, brush off any corrosion and spray a bit of Deoxit in there. You can also look for any obvious breaks or bad crimps. Given your symptoms my guess is the issue is in the controller wires that come from the left grip.
  22. Frickn gorgeous! Mad skillz
  23. Been reading more into the coating on the throttle bodies, apparently they're used in all sorts of honda bikes and cars and seem to be more critical than I expected. I wonder if that could be the cause of the irregular vacuum readings and needing to have the idle speed screw wound fully out? Has anyone used any particular product to recoat them? Apparently molykote 321 is the stuff to use so I've read? Has to be worth a go I reckon.
  24. Ok good to know. Thanks for that.
  25. Hi All My VFR1200f DCT has developed intermittent heated grips. Sometimes they won't turn on. Sometimes they turn on and then turn off after 10 minutes on their own. If the grips are not working and I move the grip wires on the handlebars around I can sometimes make them work. I can never stop them working once they have come on by moving the handlebar wires. I'm thinking I need to remove the tie wraps and the tape and look for loose connections. I could use a multimeter to see if either grip has got an intermittent connection once I've got them apart. If it's not the wiring on the bars then I'll have to take off the left side fairing and look at the controller and the auxillary connector. Has anyone fixed this before? Any tips? Thanks John
  26. Interesting point about the filter, I don't think it is a k&n but similar. I'll check at some point. Someone has fitted heli bars at some point, I wonder if the choke cable has been changed at some point for a longer one but with too short an inner as such, could be the reason for that. Pretty sure everything is routed as it should be, I'm a bit ocd with stuff like that! Pair valve I was thinking about, they're always so untidy! I had a xj900 a while ago and the amount of plumbing on that for the pair valve was ridiculous! The flapper valve I was probably going to leave, I was under the impression it gave a slight low rpm boost, bit like a power valve I suppose but on the inlet. Does it not do an awful lot then?
  27. Yeah sort vac hoses, they do rot over time, agree with Terry, starter valves seem to be all screwed up, they're supposed to be coated & run dry, if oiled they might gum up especially using a K&N that filters poorly, they appear to catch a load of dust, in reality they're basically 💩 & let a ton of crap thru into the motor, even when oiled, proven by the filth inside your throttle bodies, I keep advising people about this rubbish, but they've been around that long they're a good seller regardless of the shit filtering & poor fit, a lot bikers fall for the hype, (Sprint or BMC) are a way better quality filter, aint cheap tho. A while back on another forum I use, we did our own filter/dust trapping tests on the big filter names K&N / PIPERCROSS/ SPRINT / BMC. Paper filters came top, Sprint & Bmc came second place, even (dry) filter better than K&N oiled, Pipercross or Pipercrap as I call em are just total 💩 fall to bits & go thru your motor, K&N came out the worst for filtration.... Nuff said! Yeah UK 98/99's should have a bar mounted fast idle lever affair, it gets called a choke but it's not actually a choke as such. I've noticed Honda weren't very generous with cable length, even with the low stock clip-ons, when you start fitting bar riser blocks or a conventional bar setup, you quickly run out of cable length. Eg) I've fitted conventional bars that sit as high as the fairing allows, fast idle cable is only just long enough, stock throttle cables were too short to run the stock route, looked a dogs dinner routed any other way, my research led me to ST1300 throttle cables which are basically same cables albeit a few inches longer, expensive new, bagged a good pair from an eBay breakers for £15 inc throttle tube, return cable has too much slack, so not a direct transplant, nowt ever is on a VFR ffs, so I McGuyvered it at throttle body end with a cable tie to take out 10mm of excess slack, i'll make an extra split lock nut as a spacer next time I get tank up. My point is, cables can easily cause you some shit if routed wrongly, too short, kinked, splitting etc, just ensure your's are aren't contributing to your gremlins, I hate a cable slack at throttle, but a tiny bit is necessary so butterflies fully close. Online Manual clearly shows all loom & cable routing if you wanna compare how yours are laid out. While air box is out it's a good time to remove "flapper" & "Pair valve" crap, if not done already. Let us know how you get on 👍
  28. That was one of my thoughts but all the plungers are moving freely. I've got them all removed for cleaning at the moment but I don't think I'll achieve anything from that. Nice to know it's clean though lol.
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    1. med_gallery_491_3463_298783.jpg

      Juniper Pass

      I took a day off from work and also from my bicycle training to take out the Veefalo one last time before the weather turns ugly, supposed to snow the rest of the week and possibly start sticking to the ground along the Colorado Front Range. I took a leisurely pace up hwy 105 toward Morrison and got reacquainted with the bike since its been over a month since I took any sort of twisties on it at all, hwy 105 is a scenic ride along the front range between Denver and Colorado Springs, its mostly easy fast sweepers and lite traffic so its a favorite road of mine when going north. Then I have to negotiate a bit of traffic near Highlands ranch and up hwy 470 into the mountains. I decided to take the Morrison Exit and try either Lookout Mountain or head up Golden Gate Canyon - this time it was Lookout Mountain, I was sort of making it up on the fly as I went along. Lookout Mountain is my old bicycling haunt from my days while I was working at Coors, its a killer ride and all uphill - I don't think I could do it today If I had to, not quite there yet! I saw a whole bunch of riders doing it though and wished I was in shape enough to be there doing it as well. 30 more lbs and I will be able to do it! On this day I would do it on the Veefalo instead.

       

       

       

       

      I took a video from the gateway to the top at the Lookout Mountain State Park, getting past riders, the guy in the green jacket actually pretty much astounded me with how far he had gotten in the short time it took me to set up my camera, some 3 miles at least and up to the gateway from the turn off at hwy 6! Amazing I thought. I took the first two turns slow then got more comfortable as I went up further, till I was doing well, I made some gearing mistakes and took the tight 15mph marked hairpins in the wrong gear so I lugged it a bit on one or two. Still enjoyed it though and then got off at the top and hiked over a rock outcropping for an overview of the road for the pictures below.

       

       

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      Lookout Mountain - Golden Colorado

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      Zoomed in

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      Lookout Mountain Park top of the mountain

      From there I headed up interstate 70 to Idaho Springs for a beer at the Tommy-knockers brewery, I was the only customer in the joint - slow day for them so they treated me like a king! I got a nice tour of the place sort of impromptu, they made me a nice Pastrami sandwich on rye and with the brown ale it was fantastic. I must say the beer is much better there than in the bottles - its always good at the brewery. I am glad I stopped

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      Tommy-knockers Brewpub Idaho Springs

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      Idaho Springs Colorado

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      Mashtuns and fermenters

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      Rows of fermenters

      I finished my lunch and since the road to Mount Evans is right there I headed up Squaw pass hoping to get in some nice pictures I wasn't expecting what I found, ICE IN ALL THE SHADY PARTS

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      Icy patches on Squaw Pass definitely taking it easy on that road

      There were some section where the ice covered the whole road for 300 yards or so I had to roll through it with my legs out to help keep the bike from sliding and falling over, I took it real slow. A Ford pickup was right behind me so I pulled over to let him pass but the guy was going slower then even I was so I pressed on - in places where I could see I just cut over to the oncoming lane and out of the ice where the sun was shining on the road more, but some places there was not alternative so I just had to go slow, good thing it wasn't slick but rather they tossed some gravel over the worst parts so I had some traction!

      I did stop for pictures in all the best spots

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      Echo Lake at Mount Evans showing off my new plate

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      Elephant Butte Park and Denver

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      Close up

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      Veefalo on Squaw Pass

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      Juniper Pass

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      Juniper Pass

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      Mount Evans

      My route A is home B is Tommy-knockers

       

    2. martinkap
      Latest Entry

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      Not that it matters and not that I expect anyone had noticed, but to those who sent me "where are you?" I would like to say I am back. Not only that I am officially returning to VFRD after nearly 2 months break but I have also ridden my Hawk last weekend and had FUN! Let me restate that; I had major fun riding! Something I have almost given up on.

      Most of you have been riding your whole adult lives and riding is not only a hobby to you, it is part of you. But I started riding three years ago and even though I have encounter some setbacks, till this spring I loved riding with whole my heart. However, I have always considered riding as my hobby. As a hobby which suppose to make my life better, more fun and more rich. Life is too short to do something which we don't fully love.

      My love of riding received a first major scar this spring: I lost a friend on the racetrack. He was a total stranger who offered me his help after I lowsided at CMP track last year. I still remember hearing his "Hi, my name is Todd, do you need help?" while I was duct-taping my roadrash from ripped jacket. He helped me straighten up the shifter and we kept in touch. The next time we saw each other was the day he died.

      With 9 months delay, I can say that Todd's death shook me more than I have realized. It rooted fear in me which was fueled by seeing and hearing about others getting hurt over and over again. If I was to summarize this year - it would be one big accident report. I became sensitive to every broken bone, every roadrash, every lowside. And even though I did 10 track days this year, I became slower and slower and slower. Suddenly, I have acquired this 'grandma' riding style on the road, frozen with fear that behind every corner there is car standing in my lane, or major sand trap or deer staring at me ... I was crippled with fear not only for me about also for my fellow rider.

      So, at the end of this year, I rode more and more by myself. I could not bear the feelings of responsibility for others on the road and my lines were crippled by my own fears. It all culminated this fall at WDGAH. In a freaky accident Love2rideh82crash was taken down by a truck crossing into our lane. I was done. I finished the weekend, locked the VFR into a garage and took a break.

      Until the last weekend, I pretended that motorcycles do not exists. As a last instance after 2 months break from riding, I decided to go to CMP track to see if I can still have fun. I also felt like I should go for the memory of Todd. I went and I had fun! I had much more fun than I expected and the most fun on track I can remember. Suddenly the whole track connected into an uninterupted line of turns and I felt one with the bike riding around! I was giggling like a little girl in my helmet and keep on giggling ever since smile.gif

      Granted I was not the fastest one and through out the weekend, I have never exceeded about 60% of my riding abilities, but I had no "oh-shit" nor 'blond' moments. I could have maybe go faster, I could have brake later for the turns and I could have lean further, but I am no Rossi nor Stoner. I decided to ride for fun and I had amazing blast riding well within my comfort zone.

      I was proud of myself when, after bandaging Ricks arm, I was able to distance myself and go back to riding without the year-long fear. I did feel bad for him but the feelings were not crippling my lines nor my mind. And when a total stranger came to me and said "Hi, my name is Todd", my heart stopped for a minute though but I suddenly knew that my life went a full circle. I probably will never win MotoGP :idea3: , but I am back! :wheel:

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