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@TomSanders...... There's umteen hundred threads on charging system fixes including mine, but for me, I wouldnt use an overcurrent breaker and the Electrix stator. And have found most YT VFR vids quite lacking... The best info is in this forum.... Best wishes for you.

Lovely machine. Once I retire I will be riding my 07 more.

Dont know what's going on but dont run the bike..but I would guess your R/R is shot...

So the bike was running out of battery a lot and I know the stator is a common issue on this bike, I was also having headlight issues. I did the blue connector mod and the headlights are now running flawless. But after swapping rectifiers it is now reading 21 v at battery terminals. I am thinking the rectifier isnt great. I seen on here that a stator will result in lower voltage not higher so I'm guessing I need another rectifier... Anyone know any known GOOD dystors they've bought and that actually lasted thanks 👍 any other ideas welcome

If the stator wires are 14ga. how does 10ga.connecting those to RR allow more current to pass/flow?

The paint job on that is absolutely gorgeous.

Fan was running. More high speed/high rpm/full throttle than slow/idling.

That on the high end for sure. Was the fan running? Lots of time under 35MPH, and/or idling?

Swapped an RC51 front end onto my 02 VFR a few years back and just upgraded the front wheel to an OZ. So the oem wheel is available. Dunlop Q3 included, has some miles left, no brake discs Free but you must come and pick it up, located just outside Boston

Any questions please ask 😃

There is room for the overcurrent device forward of the battery and behind the tank. Fire up without the RR connected and measure the AC voltage. Healthy. Connect everything and check the charging voltage at the battery. Also healthy

Some M6 studs to help with refitting the cover and avoid clanging the new stator into the flywheel. No goo on the gasket. I cut the cables from the new stator 😱 and soldered to the new stuff, heat shrink sleeving, tuck in out of the way \

Took ages to clean the off the old gasket, all of which was on the cover. Some of it with a knife then to the metal with scotchbrite. Bit of RTV on the grommet. The Honda manual says oil the threads on the bolts, so I did that and no thread lock.

Make the adapter plate using the old and new RRs for spacing. The bolts for the new RR are held in place with epoxy. Mount it to the bike - looks good.

Cut the AC wires at both ends and used them to pull through a piece of string. Then get the new cables routed using that

With the coolant tank moved out of the way, remove the generator cover bolts. It took a lot of prying and swearing to get the cover to give. There is not much to lever against, but using a crow/breaker bar with a protective cover on the end and a piece of wood to transfer the leverage elsewhere (might have been the downpipe 😒 it came off. I separated the connectors below to give a bit more access. Stator looking quite unwell.

The connector kit and cable. I soldered them up. You can just about get the grommets over the 10AWG wire and into the plug. Don't get solder too far down the spade connector or you will have difficulty getting the tang to snap into the housing. §

My 2010 6th Gen left me high and dry back in May this year. Bought it last October, 17k miles. Pretty obvious while riding and the few motorway miles involved are probably what took out the stator. Dimly flashing ABS light, instruments going out completely, engine dies in the petrol station. Took out the battery and family member got me back home. Put a couple of hours charge in it and was able to jump start from the car and ride it back. Just needed to keep the revs above 4k 🙄. Got the RH fairing off, standard diode tests show RR has failed. Stator coils had continuity and nothing to ground, but no AC output either 😖. So... gathered all the bits: - 10AWG wire yellow, red, black - FH020AA RR from a breaker on eBay - G180 from Electrex World - 30A auto reset overcurrent device - 5mm sheet aluminium to make an adapter plate - RR connector set - 6mm brass ring crimp terminals - heat shrink sleeving - Athena generator cover gasket The recipe I followed is Kev's Shed, so not claiming any credit for the approach 🙂

Just did this mod, headlights werent working, indicators turning fuel pump, headlight relays buzzing, intermittent lights. Did the mod the exact way as done here and just checked and everything working now 👍👍👍 thankyou lads. Brilliant resource here

So your fan didn’t kick in? FWIW I replaced my radiator cap this year, the old one was slightly shorter when I measured it

Hi Folks, I was riding yesterday in 95+F heat. Riding like a jackass, multiple full throttle trips to the redline, etc. My temperature was staying between 225-233. That seems excessive to me, but I was thinking maybe that's just what it does in extreme temperatures. What do you think? Problem or expected temperatures under extreme conditions? Thanks,

Cheers for the info bro 👍 Far too spendy for my budget for a bit of alloy ... I'll find an alternative method hopefully.

Terry is probably spot on. The burping is used when you drain and refill the system to remove localised air pockets that could restrict circulation of the coolant. If you haven't recently changed your coolant and the problem is new, it's likely to be a problem with retaining pressure as Terry observed.

I guess I qualify as an oldtimer, turning 65 in a few weeks. Still have my 95 but it's sitting idle waiting for a new r/r. In the meantime, I bought a 2014 Multistrada because I've always wanted one and to be honest, the adv ergonomics suit me much better now than the VFR.

I've started using UTTO (Universal Tractor Transmission Oil) in EVERYTHING that doesn't burn fuel. And that's a lot of stuff around my shop. The front forks on the VFR seem to like it, might be a bit thick on a cold fall morning till things warm up.