ragintxn03

I'll have to try that for sure. Yes, I still have the stock one for comparison as well. Will post my findings in the next couple of days. Thanks for the suggestions!

I did get the G2 throttle tamer. The cable does have slack when I open it manually fully on the pulling (top) cable - the throttle itself does not move more when I open the throttle fully manually. I can open throttle to where it stops, and then still move it more manually, but the throttle tube does not move more. The cables themselves are not tight per-say when the throttle is closed either, but you can't remove them unless you pull the bracket off near the throttle body itself. These are the cables that I replaced the OE cables with: 17910-MT3-000 - CABLE A, THROTTLE 17920-MT3-000 - CABLE B, THROTTLE As far as I understand the throttle tamer, it's elliptical to give you the slower initial pull, right? - so are you saying there isn't enough relief in the housing to open all the way? It feels like it comes to a full twist stop, rather than slow smash into the plastic housing, but maybe I do need to do some kind of relief?

Howdy all - quick question for the community. So I installed the Hurricane bar conversion, and got the ST throttle cables for the install. I also decided, while I have it pulled apart, to put a throttle tamer on the bike as I'm going for a much more touring/sport rather than sport/touring on my last VFR. So after the install - I tested the new throttle tube, and it doesn't open the valves fully. Just wanted to check if 1) is this normal (even with the OE tube?); 2) if it's not, is this a known issue with a throttle tamer? 3) if this is normal from a throttle tamer - has anyone found it to be limiting in their riding?

So I tested the battery, and it is good once fully charged (AutoZone and did it at home - 12.6 V). I did the stator test and this is where I'm confused. All leads test at 0.2 ohms and then it fluctuates between 0.1 and 0.3. Mello dude, your linked post says below 0.2 is good, but the PDF link for the full breakdown says 0.5 to 2.0 is good. So with my 0.1-0.3 ohm test, I'm assuming the stator is out? Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Quick update - just took her out around the block for 10 mins, and here's what I got: Idle: 12.18 4k: 12.26 Off: 12.52 This is all at the battery - looks like I'm going through the R/R testing first according to the diagram? I haven't opened anything up, but does anyone whether the 99's had the 4 or more colored​ wires? Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Where are these supposed to be running at? I thought it was high 13 to mid 14s? Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

So - quick update - I did check the connection of the R/R with the stator the other day, and it looked fine. So I'll probably just solder those connections to hopefully avoid an possible issue while I wait to upgrade the R/R. However, I took my bike into my local shop to have them check the charging system - stator and R/R (I don't have the tools for that yet) - and they told me that the volts were all over the place, but attributed it to loose battery terminals. I had just put the battery back in before I road over to hand it over, and made sure the nuts were quite tight; but, they said that after they tightened the connection to the terminals, they got a consistent 13.6V reading on their voltmeter. Could loose terminals really be the issue? I'm wondering if they meant the connections from the battery to the bike (not at the connections on the battery - if that makes sense) - does that happen often? Thoughts & comments appreciated - thanks

So, I'm getting ready to start the stator and R&R replacement - everyone suggests soldering the wires, but I don't know what kind of iron to get (mainly wattage), and the type of soldering wire for this kind of electrical work. Any suggestions? Also, any good YouTube videos? Thanks in advance Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Dude - totally my story. The "regular maintenance" was done (the guy even had all the service records when he owned it for 7 years), but I couldn't find anything more than oil changes, a chain replacement, and battery replacement. I'm definitely find out quite a few things as I dig deeper into the bike. He did give me the Clymer Shop Manual, so I'm sure there's a section in there about adjusting the shims that I'll have to research. I'm much the same way - I like knowing my vehicles inside and out on a more personal level. Any special tools I (we) should know about for tuning the shims? Thanks for the feedback from everyone, and Greg for the note on the synchronizer.

Thanks for all the feedback - give me a place to go. I didn't notice any leaking in the garage, but the comment on baking on the headers makes sense - I'll have to check there. I did get the fairing off and I guess looking through the little window isn't adequate as I saw that it was just above the lower line (although that still seems to be a lot to bleed from the system since I topped it off to the Upper line two week ago). I'll double check the lines near the header and probably just replace the cap. I keep forgetting this is nearly a 20 year old bike so things are just gonna be old. Thanks again everyone!

So as I purchased my '99 VFR about two months ago, and as I do with every bike (mostly) I go through, check all the connections, pressures, fluids, etc. In my due diligence, I replace both my oil and did a coolant flush. Fast forward two weeks later, I'm sitting in traffic, and my temp does it's normal tick up to right around 170. However instead of sitting between 165-170 it starts to tick up to 180, 190, and then the light turns green. Cools back down to about 170 (normally runs 150-160 riding), and kept doing that dance until I got home. Pulled into the garage, checked the reservoir and bone dry... Any suggestions as to why I had a full tank of coolant two weeks prior and now have nothing? Thanks Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Sorry, that is correct - thanks for the correct term Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

So - I just bought my '99 VFR about two months ago. Struggles with a start (usually two cranks), but I think I figured it out with a battery problem - will know tonight. However, it got me thinking, and the previous owner (#2) didn't know whether the cams had been serviced. From what I understand is that you do it at 20k miles. Any way to check without having to take it in, or should I just pay up for the service? Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the replies - as I wrote the post, I thought more about it, and figured it probably just needed a new battery. Thanks again! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

So - resurrecting an old post here - hopefully it catches some attention. I just did the same thing with my bike - replaced the old 45/45s with some Philips 50/65s. Road to work - just fine. After work, she struggled to started, but did. I pulled up into the drive way, and (luckly) died right there on the spot. Any suggestions? It was posted that the bulbs wouldn't do it, but it seems somewhat coincidental. However, I did just get the bike not too long ago, and I don't know if the battery is still stock...probably should check that...