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What about getting a container and storing a bike in it during the winter? I look at it as a good idea plus can store more things for a home. If anyone have it, please share your recommendations, as so far I only looked at https://www.vivacontainers.com/shop/usa/texas/houston

Thanks again Captain, I spent some time this morning web shopping and will see what Jay wants to do, he got the cash, my budget was blown on that tail cowl from sixdog, hell I'm selling shit off no-a-days! haha Don't regret buying that tail cowl one bit though...that piece is so pretty! I saw some new Mitsubishi pumps you mentioned as well...it wouldn't hurt me if Jay wanted to go that route too...

I did...😔 Thanks, I'll do that. Thanks!

I have Daytonas on my GSXR1000 and they have been fine. I got them just before they upgraded them with the auto off function so I run them through a Healtech Thunderbox to make sure I don't drain my battery. The Daytonas have been good and they get hot enough. My VFR1200F came with the OE heated grips (red LED). These have 3 settings and these too get hot enough. I also fitted the OE heated grips to my NC750S. These had 5 settings (green LED) and they integrated with a symbol on the LCD dash which was good. However, their performance was not great and they just did not get hot enough. I now have a new to me 2022 NC750X and I won't be fitting the OE grips. I'll go aftermarket, probably Oxfords this time.

Thanks for the input, just trying to stick with OEM because my other motorcycle has them and I'm pleased with them, over 10 years of using them almost every time I ride and they still work perfectly. From the guys I know I'm person that have installed aftermarket the Daytona have been hit or miss, not many negative comments about Oxfords and I've never Heard of Koso until I just started looking into the aftermarket options, the Oxford have a newer style with the control built in which I would much prefer but they aren't sold in the US as of right now, I've got a couple friends in the UK so I still might do that route. Heated grips are a pretty simple piece of tech but I'm not certain how the OEM actually function or why there are so many different models for different years and bikes (excluding those that communicate with the dash) such as what are the specs on the controller boxes, what are their tolerances and variance from multiple model? I know I'm over thinking it and I'll likely end up going with the Oxford anyway 😎

Offering my grey 6th Gen (2008) for sale. I'm the only owner, having purchased the bike from Shawnee (Oklahoma) Honda in March 2010. It's completely stock, and in excellent condition. Only 8,300 miles. Runs perfect. Comes with factory matching side cases. Been garaged and covered its whole life; I'm even including the Nelson Rigg cover I've used. Asking $5,500. Reach out to @OkieMatt with any inquiries. Will post for sale locally, but wanted to see if there was a VFR aficionado out there looking for a like-new older bike.

Horrible to hear the creator of this project passed away! He did a great service to this community! Sadly after many life events I am late to the group buy for this header purchase as I was to the rapidbike group buy...Possibly one may pop upon the classifieds one of these days but for now it looks like lextek is the next best go to with...

What was it? Generic? You're gonna want to work on adapting a straight inlet/outlet style pump to gain some selection. Look at the attached K&L Pump application chart. I look for used genuine Mitsubishi pumps of the 18-5529 style on eBay. I find the newest, lowest mile one that has a return policy. I have done this about 7 times now and have only got one dud. They instantly refunded me and didn't want want the pump back, so I got a good amount of formed fuel line and clamps for free. All the other pumps have worked perfect. The last one I got was from a YZF600, had 14K miles on it and looked brand new. $30 shipped. You can also buy a new K&L or TourMax pump (both genuine Mistsu) but they are not cheap. K&L_Fuel_Pumps.pdf

You put a Chinese $10 one in it?

WD-40 did the trick. Everything slipped into place the correct amount. When everything ist tightened up I have between 1/8 and 1/4" clearance to the swingarm. I hope that is about what everyone else is getting. Nick

So my son Jay calls me up and says "the bikes dead, it acted like it was out of gas so I turned on the pump switch and that helped for a while then it ran out of fuel, dead"! Well the repair vehicle (me) with the I'll fitting, extremely loud back up pump to the rescue with success! What frustrates me is, the flipping thing was brand new, not 10 miles on it! Is there a distributer that carries decent fuel pumps or am I rolling the dice on ebay again?? Thanks...

Hoping someone may have an inner half cowl available. I believe this part came in black from the factory on all bikes no matter the color. It is located directly behind the front wheel and attaches to both the left and right side cowlings. I attached a picture from the Honda Service Manual for reference. Thanks!

There are tanks out there. Will it be really pretty AND really cheap? No. But you have A LOT of work to do before you are even close to needing a real tank to ride down the road. You can finish everything and run it on a hanging aux tank while you look. This is a classic cart-before-the-horse scenario.

The rear of the tank that has to fit inside of the rails of the subframe will likely be an issue on a CBR tank. There are even some very anomalous VFR tanks that are slightly wider in that area and had a slightly different subframe to accommodate. Joe at v4 Dreams first documented it and I also had a tank with a parts bike that was like it. It was very strange and would not fit on any of my bikes. Unfortunately the subframe got tossed before I took possession of the bike.

Hey guys, secondly what would you think of a CBR600F2 tank on the VFR700? dimensions are really close. Just wondering your opinions?

Seems like a decent plan. Whatever holds and still looks good. Make sure you rough everything up to get good bonding / adhesion. I personally would be recreating the new pieces out of ABS, but I have a lot more experience going that route, and would require a different attaching approach. Post some pics and good luck!

hi guys after a bit of advice regarding the rear seat cowl. the one i have one of the back tabs is missing, the front left one has a little bit missing from it and the front right one i have snapped off twice. i have had an idea to make new metal tabs for the back and 2 for the front with the bolt holes then doing a couple of thin layers of fiberglass on the inside of it to hold the new tabs in place and make it a bit more solid. does this seem like a good idea? im open to other suggestions, i dont want it to come flying off when im going down the road. Many Thanks Sam

Hi guys, I recently started another project bike that I pulled out from behind a barn in Maine a few weeks ago. The bike had been lying on its side for more than 10 years. The tank is toast. had at least a half a tank of gas in it when it was stored and that dissolved into brown junk. The tank has holes in it all around and would take a major advanced welder to be able to fix it. Just wondering if anyone out there has a tank for a 86-88 they want to sell or if anyone knows if there is an aftermarket tank available? I think I saw a post about a retired guy in CA who makes them from scratch? thanks for the assistance

A new crush washer should be able to compensate for that, easy. It did have a crush washer... right?

Hi Anonymous, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Do you have the 4 hoses attached the airfilter housing, OR the five way junction type? Hoses 1 to 4 must be effectively blocked off while doing SV Synch. Either all connected to a 4 column vac gauge. Or if doing 1 at a time the other 3 must be blocked off, which would be an issue if you have the five way junction type. - SV's are for base idle, cold idle and small throttle opening. The greater the butterflies open the less the influence of SV's - Compression checks for number 2 maybe? Body to intake rubber boot leaking or damaged maybe? - TPS cannot effect only one cylinder. - Not sure if a 6gen MAP Sensor is the same as the 5th. But as mentioned, the 5gen MAP and BARO sensors are the same part numbers and can be swapped for fault finding. - The 5gen throttle body is a birds nest of vacuum hoses, make sure all the hoses are in good condition, connected and no cracks or damage. - Have you read the Technical Features section of the Service Manual? Good explanations of the EFI system and sensors. Sorry I can't offer anything else, have never owned a 5gen.

I've got the Oxfords with the ugly (but perfectly practical) external controller on my three bikes and can't fault them for usability. My only gripe is that the leads can sometimes be a little short and require lots of cunning to route nicely.

I can't understand why you would even want to do that. Modern aftermarket grips are miles better than the Honda grips IMO. Daytona, Oxfords, Koso all have inbuilt auto power off technology so can be connected directly to the battery, and have a low profile inbuilt button so no large ugly controller anymore. However, to each their own..

Is the other side smooth?

Another updated: After disconnecting everything and cleaning the TPS sensor with contact cleaner, it seems that the FI light is no longer on. I've tested it for the past 3 days, covering more than 500 km on a country trip. So, no more errors have been stored after this. I will keep an eye on this topic, but now I would like to focus on the valve sync for the following reason: I tried again to sync the throttle bodies as stated step by step in the service manual, including the pair valve, etc. (One question: the manual states to disconnect hose 1 to 4, meaning that the other 3 hoses should be disconnected from the airbox while I do the sync? I'm asking this because I only have one vacuum gauge. I don't think, and until now, I've been doing it with them connected.) After following your recommendation and after 200 km, the sensation was that everything flowed much better. I was finally able to change gears without that small jerky motion that I've never got the hang of. Everything seemed decent, but I could feel that the power output was much lower, and I had to go full throttle for overtaking other cars. So, smoother but less power. Also, no more running rich and no pops on deceleration. I decided to redo everything as it didn't quite feel perfect (my mistake), and I've got the following new values: - Cylinder #1: 2.0 cmHg - Cylinder #2: 1.0 cmHg - Cylinder #3: 2.2 cmHg - Cylinder #4: 2.1 cmHg After trying various times to get the same values and feeling as before, nothing helped. Now, I have much more power again, but everything is very jerky, and I feel that the response of the acceleration has a slight delay until the action has to be done by the engine, thus jerky when changing gears. So, I'm running out of ideas. I cleaned all the SVs and verified they open synchronously. The flapper valve is still connected and theoretically working. Should I try closing the vacuum hose and test it like that? So, what else could be the culprit in this case, only happening to the 2nd cylinder? Could the TPS sensor have anything to do with this? Is it worth changing the baro sensor (which is from a 6th gen) with the MAP one, maybe it's related?