Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Today
  2. You need 2 relays. One normally open the other normally closed. Find the feed or return wire from the bulb you want to control & place both relays load circuits in series in the wire. Connect normally open control circuit to a switched circuit as in only powered when the ignition is on. Thus turn ignition on & the bulb will illuminate. Connect the normally closed control circuit to the starter relay circuit, such that when you press the starter button it will open & remove power to the bulb, freeing the juice for stating duty. When engine starts & starter button is released it will reconnect & power the bulb. Simples 😁👍
  3. No accessories added. The pic was to show the heat damage to the connector on the red wire from the ignition switch which I am sure I hard wired. Guessing I at least need to remove the switch to examine/clean the contact base. I found a post where someone had removed the switch, but it was a real pain. It looks like it might be easier to remove the top triple clamp?
  4. Thanks Grum. Right now the bike is in bits going though restoration so can't try anything just yet, however am making copies of all feedback and will implement something at the appropriate time. Seems it was not as big an issue as I had thought - me over thinking things again. I have just about completed the repairs on the fairings which were in poor condition but will ultimately be done in the '86 Honda Interceptor red, white and blue color scheme, just 'cause I like the combination and I should be seen - not run into! (It's a safety thing - like with the daylight headlamp on)
  5. Your 100mV drop between the Battery Pos and the Red wire coming off Fuse A, which is what I think you are saying! is nothing too serious, and possibly caused by fuse A blade connections. Remove the fuse check the fuse and its legs make sure there are No signs of heat stress or oxidisation, any doubt just fit a nice new 30amp Fuse. Also carefully try a gentle rub of very fine emery or wet and dry paper into the Fuse contacts within the starter relay in case of any crap on these connections. Check also the Red wire spade connection at the Red 4p connector of the starter relay make sure this is good. This is an ideal application for a small amount of Ox-Gard on the legs of the Fuse both new or the old Fuse and the Red 4p starter connectors. Hopefully this might help to reduce that voltage drop. Your 14.08v at both Battery and main Positive at the Starter Relay only means you have good battery connections and healthy lead to the starter relay! Back to your hot wires near the Ignition Switch, the above photo is not telling or showing me anything! I think you need a close look at the Ignition Switch internals as mentioned or a new switch fitted. You haven't mentioned if you have any additional accessories added to your bike, this could be important when it come to hot wires! You should try measuring and comparing what Voltage (Ignition Switch to ON) you have at the Red wire/wires at the Ignition Switch (Voltage In) and the Red/Black wire at the Switch (Voltage Out) if there is a notable difference between the two then you've confirmed a voltage drop within the switch and the reason for hot wires.
  6. Coincidentally, the red wire that goes into the starter solenoid had melted the red connector. I cut back the wire there and crimped and soldered a new spade. After startup today, I measured a .1 volt difference from voltage check at the battery. 14.08 at battery, 13.98 at red wire into solenoid, black on negative batt. 14.08 to starter motor cable on solenoid. Here's the red wire at the switch connection before my repair. Feel like I crimped and soldered that one outside of the connector
  7. Yes, that is the OEM join of the two into one between the 4p connector and the Switch (refer your wiring diagram). This join needs to be a Very Good one, make sure your post repair is good. However if you are feeling the heat closer to the wire joins at the switch the your problem is most likely within the switch as mentioned
  8. I had repaired part of that connection when I wired in the new r/r. The 2 red wires coming from the switch merge into one, and that connection was fried. I crimped and soldered to splice that connection. Pic is from before my repair This heat is greatest directly under that selector piece 😞 the wires themselves are only warm. I think I can get that from Honda new..but the hard part will be getting the switch off. Think it's easier to remove the ignition as a whole, then remove the bottom part?
  9. Your charging voltages all look good. But the heat from your Ignition Switch wires doesn't sound right, this can be caused by only two things. 1 you have added accessories increasing the load current through the switch and wires. 2 you have developed some high resistance contacts within the switch, the most likely cause. First check the nearest connector to the switch being the 4P connector (refer you wiring diagram) make sure these connections are clean and good, a coating of Ox-Gard on the pins/sockets will help, a poor contact here will make the Ignition Switch wires feel hot. If this doesn't remove the heat from the wires you will need to removed the Ignition Switch, and carefully separate the switch and clean the internal contacts again applying a good coating of Ox-Gard to the contacts, reassemble and see how you go. I've never removed an Ignition Switch but I believe the two OEM security bolts are a PIA to remove, do worry if you end up destroying the heads of these bolts when removing them, simply refit standard Allen Head bolts. Agree with Danno's good suggestions, however the Ignition Switch wiring is primarily protected against a short to frame by Main Fuse A 30amp and all the sub fuses in your fuse box downstream from the switch, Assume you're not blowing fuses? Good Luck.
  10. messure temp of FH020 RR: 1. on 1st startup when voltages are normal 2. again when voltages start dropping. Trace where hot wires go: 3. determine exactly which wires are hot 4. measure exact current-flow through these wires when they're hot, clamp-on ampmeter will work 5. examine all end-components powered by this hot wire. Measure power consumption of each. Might not even be that, could have short-to-ground on that power-wire downstream somewhere
  11. I would say it sounds like the setup on my ZRX which I finally replaced as it was unreliable. I took the contact assy. out of the new switch and used it in the old housing with my old key cylinder so I didn't have to worry about 2 keys. Cleaning seemed to be just temporary and one wire kept breaking at the solder joint no matter what I did. I don't remember there being 2 housings, but it was possible to replace bad parts with good. Not sure about how honda does it, but if it looks like 2 separate housings that sounds doable. Look at a parts diagram and see what you can learn.
  12. Yesterday
  13. So I'm still chasing the charging issue with the 07. Starts out charging 14.1 volts idle. Sounds normal. Rev to 3k or so, voltage increases to 14.2-14.3. still normal. Now after the fan has cycled a few times and she's good and hot, the voltage falls to the 13s and just slowly climb unless throttle is given them we only get to 13.98v at 4k rpm 😕 I have already replaced the fuse B holder and am running a new fh020aa with roadstercycle connection straight to the battery. I was feeling around for hot wires when I discovered the ones coming from the bottom of the key cylinder are H O T. Like, I can't even hold my finger on where they exit the bottom selector. This does not sound normal to me. It appears the lower piece of the ignition switch assembly is separate and is bolted to the bottom of the key cylinder. Is this part a major PITA to change? Or even remove for cleaning?
  14. Skipper if your bike has just the one headlight bulb with the two filaments, the drawing supplied should be similar, its for an 86 VFR750. Do a simple Test. When you crank the bike over, your headlights should be OFF when you release the Starter Switch the headlights should be back ON. Because you are only working with one bulb the current draw didn't require the addition of a relay. As mentioned the headlight function is the same as later gens. Its only the addition of extra bulbs and the greater current draw that necessitated the use of Hi and Lo beam relays. Your concern for relay spike on your old bike (if you decided to fit one) is nothing to worry about. The spike potentially generated by your starter relay would be far more significant compared to what a smaller relay used for a lighting circuit. A simple flyback diode mounted across the relay coil would solve this, but in this case, just not needed, I think you have nothing to worry about! If you turn Ignition to on then fairly soon start the engine and turn the engine off via ignition switch not the Kill Switch, you won't have a problem. Making sure your Battery and Charging System are Good is far more important than your lighting concerns.
  15. A mechanical relay draws current to activate the -magnetic coil, small I'll grant but considerably more that the mA used to activate a solid state. When I looked at how I might wire such a circuit on my '89 VFR I could see no less than two separate relays required. This was one of the reasons I asked the forum - I'm not an expert, just someone trying to solve a problem. The electro/mechanical relay can be responsible for considerable voltage spikes back into the wiring when it is switched off (mentioned by Danno), just another risk to the venerable old electronic ignition in the early bikes and does need to be considered when modifying any circuit - there are ways to protect but just another issue I read about. As for the other answers, I shall need to check the Gen 2 wiring diagram and see what it looks like regarding the lights/starting sequence - if I'm smart enough? Thanks to you both for your replies, I have certainly got some homework to do now and it looks like the answer is there with a bit of figuring
  16. Also in search of stock windscreen for 5th gen.
  17. Hi Wald, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  18. What is this "permanent load" you're talking about that solid-state relays would save? Why would solid-state relays place less load on electrical system? Power consumed (load) is determined by devices being powered by relays. Low-beam filament consumes 55w. High-beam filament consumes 60w. Doesn't matter if it's mechanical or solid-state relay doing the switching, they will still have to pass exact same amount of power to bulbs. And electrical system will still need to generate and flow exact same amount of power with either type of relay. Solid-state relays have many benefits: faster switching times with less electrical noise & static, higher power-transmission in smaller size, cooler operation. But power-savings isn't one of them.
  19. Hi Skipper. Just to be sure. Is your wiring the same as this wiring diagram ? If it is, the headlight power is removed As you press the Starter Switch and then returns power on release of the switch! So No, the lights aren't drawing power away while cranking the engine. This is basically the same functionality of both 5th and 6gens but using relay function to switch light power. Yours does it directly by the Dimmer Switch and Starter Switch action. So, is it really anything to worry about? There is no "computer wizardry" or "automatic switching" of lighting power in later VFRs, simply switches and relays! The bottom line is, and this goes for all modern VFRs. Switch On and start the engine, otherwise leave Ignition Off. AND when stopping the engine use the Ignition Switch not the Kill Switch, this will avoid leaving the headlights burning while Ignition is still On. Hope this helps?
  20. Some smart factory engineers have thought of these questions and devised some clever solutions. Dual Filament Bulbs - take look at this wiring diagram of left-hand controls. From different bike, so colours may be different, but wiring is exactly same. Dimmer switch (3) is SPDT with power coming in on BL/Y wire LO position - sends power out R/Y wire to low-beam filament HI position - sends power out R/BK wire to hi-beam filament Note that dimmer switch can ONLY be connected to ONE output terminal at a time. When in LO position, it powers low-beam filament. When switched to HI position, switch disconnects power from low and connects it to high-beam filaments. It's impossible for such switch to power both filaments at same time. Logically, it's an OR circuit.
  21. Does anyone know of or, have they built an "automatic" low beam headlamp switching device to incorporate in standard wiring of an older machine that was built before automatic switching? The problem is not a simple one for older bikes due to the lack of suitable computer wizardry For a start, one does not want the lamp turned on with the ignition since this draws voltage away from the starter, if you are lucky enough to have one, so perhaps several seconds timed "post ignition" would be good? Then the next issue is for those with a dual filament bulb - what happens when you want high beam (at night) and turn on using the light switch on the handlebars? I think a fried lamp would be the outcome without some means to shut down the "automatic" circuit - due to the two filaments overheating. Add to this, any system would be better served if one could find the appropriate solid state relays to save both the additional permanent "load" on the electrics, and achieve the higher reliability of modern electronics. I see the Chinese build one with an "adjustable timer", but of what quality standard I am unclear? I'm thinking it would need to switch 12 VDC at about 5 amps. I know we all had manual switches to turn on the headlamp before any of this sophistication was thought of but when one changes from a modern machine to ride one of the older members of one's collection, it would just be one less thing to remember - and that's just nice
  22. At this point I bet he'd be happy if we hit the annual fundraising goal, 50% to go in the next month!
  23. So got word back from sfdownhill, looks like builder is ready to move forward...:)
  24. I suggest we buy Miguel another bike ASAP. He has created and maintained the best motorcycle owner's forum on the interweb. No ads, just helpful participants and friendly support. Miguel, what could ever replace the Veefalo? 😎
  25. Very nice right away, look isn't polarizing to me anyway. Please keep updating with pics. Captain 90's!
  26. Last week
  27. You tried HispanicSlammer or Yokel? https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/staff/ PM Duc2V4 and sfdownhill directly, they can put your friend on the list. It's going to be awhile before there is a new header build, if it happens, so no rush. This forum, like vfrw, is slowly fading away. It isn't bad, the bikes are just getting old, not as many riders left, people moving on, the ST models are dying off. (Hopeful Suzuki's GT has some success.) These forums are expensive and time consuming and generally thankless, unpaid work. Mike West built vfrworld from the remains he inherited of a hondavfr.com forum 20 years ago. At this point I never see more than a handful of people here or there. Whether it's FB or some other platform, it's much easier to let someone else manage the hardware for virtually 0 cost.
  1. Load more activity
  • Blogs

    1. med_gallery_491_3463_298783.jpg

      Juniper Pass

      I took a day off from work and also from my bicycle training to take out the Veefalo one last time before the weather turns ugly, supposed to snow the rest of the week and possibly start sticking to the ground along the Colorado Front Range. I took a leisurely pace up hwy 105 toward Morrison and got reacquainted with the bike since its been over a month since I took any sort of twisties on it at all, hwy 105 is a scenic ride along the front range between Denver and Colorado Springs, its mostly easy fast sweepers and lite traffic so its a favorite road of mine when going north. Then I have to negotiate a bit of traffic near Highlands ranch and up hwy 470 into the mountains. I decided to take the Morrison Exit and try either Lookout Mountain or head up Golden Gate Canyon - this time it was Lookout Mountain, I was sort of making it up on the fly as I went along. Lookout Mountain is my old bicycling haunt from my days while I was working at Coors, its a killer ride and all uphill - I don't think I could do it today If I had to, not quite there yet! I saw a whole bunch of riders doing it though and wished I was in shape enough to be there doing it as well. 30 more lbs and I will be able to do it! On this day I would do it on the Veefalo instead.





      I took a video from the gateway to the top at the Lookout Mountain State Park, getting past riders, the guy in the green jacket actually pretty much astounded me with how far he had gotten in the short time it took me to set up my camera, some 3 miles at least and up to the gateway from the turn off at hwy 6! Amazing I thought. I took the first two turns slow then got more comfortable as I went up further, till I was doing well, I made some gearing mistakes and took the tight 15mph marked hairpins in the wrong gear so I lugged it a bit on one or two. Still enjoyed it though and then got off at the top and hiked over a rock outcropping for an overview of the road for the pictures below.




      Lookout Mountain - Golden Colorado


      Zoomed in


      Lookout Mountain Park top of the mountain

      From there I headed up interstate 70 to Idaho Springs for a beer at the Tommy-knockers brewery, I was the only customer in the joint - slow day for them so they treated me like a king! I got a nice tour of the place sort of impromptu, they made me a nice Pastrami sandwich on rye and with the brown ale it was fantastic. I must say the beer is much better there than in the bottles - its always good at the brewery. I am glad I stopped


      Tommy-knockers Brewpub Idaho Springs


      Idaho Springs Colorado


      Mashtuns and fermenters


      Rows of fermenters

      I finished my lunch and since the road to Mount Evans is right there I headed up Squaw pass hoping to get in some nice pictures I wasn't expecting what I found, ICE IN ALL THE SHADY PARTS


      Icy patches on Squaw Pass definitely taking it easy on that road

      There were some section where the ice covered the whole road for 300 yards or so I had to roll through it with my legs out to help keep the bike from sliding and falling over, I took it real slow. A Ford pickup was right behind me so I pulled over to let him pass but the guy was going slower then even I was so I pressed on - in places where I could see I just cut over to the oncoming lane and out of the ice where the sun was shining on the road more, but some places there was not alternative so I just had to go slow, good thing it wasn't slick but rather they tossed some gravel over the worst parts so I had some traction!

      I did stop for pictures in all the best spots


      Echo Lake at Mount Evans showing off my new plate


      Elephant Butte Park and Denver


      Close up


      Veefalo on Squaw Pass


      Juniper Pass


      Juniper Pass


      Mount Evans

      My route A is home B is Tommy-knockers


    2. martinkap
      Latest Entry


      Not that it matters and not that I expect anyone had noticed, but to those who sent me "where are you?" I would like to say I am back. Not only that I am officially returning to VFRD after nearly 2 months break but I have also ridden my Hawk last weekend and had FUN! Let me restate that; I had major fun riding! Something I have almost given up on.

      Most of you have been riding your whole adult lives and riding is not only a hobby to you, it is part of you. But I started riding three years ago and even though I have encounter some setbacks, till this spring I loved riding with whole my heart. However, I have always considered riding as my hobby. As a hobby which suppose to make my life better, more fun and more rich. Life is too short to do something which we don't fully love.

      My love of riding received a first major scar this spring: I lost a friend on the racetrack. He was a total stranger who offered me his help after I lowsided at CMP track last year. I still remember hearing his "Hi, my name is Todd, do you need help?" while I was duct-taping my roadrash from ripped jacket. He helped me straighten up the shifter and we kept in touch. The next time we saw each other was the day he died.

      With 9 months delay, I can say that Todd's death shook me more than I have realized. It rooted fear in me which was fueled by seeing and hearing about others getting hurt over and over again. If I was to summarize this year - it would be one big accident report. I became sensitive to every broken bone, every roadrash, every lowside. And even though I did 10 track days this year, I became slower and slower and slower. Suddenly, I have acquired this 'grandma' riding style on the road, frozen with fear that behind every corner there is car standing in my lane, or major sand trap or deer staring at me ... I was crippled with fear not only for me about also for my fellow rider.

      So, at the end of this year, I rode more and more by myself. I could not bear the feelings of responsibility for others on the road and my lines were crippled by my own fears. It all culminated this fall at WDGAH. In a freaky accident Love2rideh82crash was taken down by a truck crossing into our lane. I was done. I finished the weekend, locked the VFR into a garage and took a break.

      Until the last weekend, I pretended that motorcycles do not exists. As a last instance after 2 months break from riding, I decided to go to CMP track to see if I can still have fun. I also felt like I should go for the memory of Todd. I went and I had fun! I had much more fun than I expected and the most fun on track I can remember. Suddenly the whole track connected into an uninterupted line of turns and I felt one with the bike riding around! I was giggling like a little girl in my helmet and keep on giggling ever since smile.gif

      Granted I was not the fastest one and through out the weekend, I have never exceeded about 60% of my riding abilities, but I had no "oh-shit" nor 'blond' moments. I could have maybe go faster, I could have brake later for the turns and I could have lean further, but I am no Rossi nor Stoner. I decided to ride for fun and I had amazing blast riding well within my comfort zone.

      I was proud of myself when, after bandaging Ricks arm, I was able to distance myself and go back to riding without the year-long fear. I did feel bad for him but the feelings were not crippling my lines nor my mind. And when a total stranger came to me and said "Hi, my name is Todd", my heart stopped for a minute though but I suddenly knew that my life went a full circle. I probably will never win MotoGP :idea3: , but I am back! :wheel:

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.