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I amaze myself sometimes! I had a something related when I replaced the TBs on my 5th gen after installing the thermostat and the throttle wouldn't close fully due to bad hose routing. Glad that you sorted that one out.

Hi Terry thanks for the reply. Absolutely spot on. As i half had everything apart I took the airbox bottom off as well. Mechanism was a little crudded up so cleaned that up anyway then found a hose routed across the front of the engine was getting caught under the front throttle body when it was fully opened. Slight reroute and all now sorted. cheers again mark

Preferably PC3, but will take 5 or 6 for the right price.

I would have a look at the routing of other hoses around the airbox; maybe you have a hose that is catching the throttle cable drum? Otherwise you should remove the airbox base and lube the linkages that connect the front and rear banks.

Hi all First post here in a long time. Strange one with my 2003 VTEC VFR. The throttle body butterflies are sticking at nearly full throttle opening. Smooth across the rest of throttle range. I’ve loosened the throttle cables right off so they are effectively slack and the butterflies still stick open. A gentle nudge and they flick closed easily. The butterflies are nearly vertical when stuck. Low throttle opening absolutely fine and smooth with no notchiness until it sticks. I’ve lubed it up as much as I can with the top of the airbox and trumpets off. Hope to not dig down any further but will if I need to. anything obvious to look for? cheers all Mark

Happy Days! A little package arrived from Mr James Daugherty, containing new compression pistons and his recommended shim stacks. I spent a little time on Friday evening installing those into the bike, and had a decent chance for a test ride today, with a great near-400km run on drying roads. A "garage bounce" test wasn't encouraging as the forks feel suprisingly stiff at low speed, but the reality on open roads with bumps, holes and tar seams was very good. Firm but in no way jolting, the forks now give lots of confidence and even braking hard over unseen lumps was drama-free, My wrists were also much more comfortable, I was getting home after a couple of hours with quite tender wrists from the jarring of the stock forks. The cruise control also got a bit of a test and passed with flying colours, this takes a lot of the worry out of open road mile-munching by removing the need to keep such a close eye on speed. The CC is a little dozy when it comes to matching undulating territory, being slow to dial in throttle as the incline starts and then holding throttle longer over a crest than is ideal, but otherwise works as advertised and seems to be great value for money. Earl was pretty decent on fuel today, we had an average on the first tank of about 17.4km/L, and bettered that on the second tank at 18.4km/L (where I filled up in a small town and was then on a sweeping open road or freeway most of the way home). I think that is better than I was getting on my ST1300. The photo below was at Langs Beach in Northland, a favourite for a picturesque stop. I got home about an hour ahead of the scheduled heavy rain and thunder.

Nice, looks great! Does he do them for Multi’s too?

Welcome. Northern Arkansas was my VFR go-to riding spot when I lived in KCMO. Push Mtn Road, 7, 125, 123... You've got some great riding there.

OK class, sit back down. Back to today's subject. Tail tidy. 3D printed by a guy down in SoCal, who I found on the Aprilia forum. Verdict: Product, A- Install: PITA Result: Excellent He did a very good job of precisely creating the unit, and writing instructions. But it was that classic working in very small spaces, trying to get a small wrench on a nut that wants to flee to the darker reaches of the bike. And there were those two 2.5M allen heads that held the plate light on that happened to require 100 ft. lbs of torque to remove. Needless to say, I stripped the heads, but figured out a work-around. Anyway, I'm happy with the result. The "stinger" as someone here called it is no more!

Hi I am looking to get a top case for my bike. I just dont know what ones to get. Hopefully someone can guide me in the right direction. This is the case I want to get for it. Any help will be much appreciated

Are we there yet?

I’m about to embark on doing this swap as well on my 2000 5th gen. Does anyone know if the RC51’s oil cooler lines would work on the VFR? The eBay seller who I bought from included them as well. I guess I’ll know for sure when I do the swap some time this month but I’m curious if anyone has used them. This is also with a 2000 RC51 oil cooler btw.

Welcome! Show us pics of your VFR.....🙂

Hello Everyone, New but not new to the community but not VFR world. Have been a lurker for quite sometimes and i just thought i should introduce myself. Looking forward to seek knowledge and also contribute in any way i can. Cheers

Beautiful!

I've never had my bike overheat to the point when the dash starts flashing or safety shutdown. As Terry said, it's mostly psychological. We don't like seeing big numbers. Us used to Celsius scale don't like seeing 100C, it's a psychological limit because it's the boiling point of water and it's three digits. 100C is like wow it's gonna explode to most people. I'm aware that this is fine, but still, I don't like seeing big numbers either. Can't escape human nature I guess. This is also why temp gauges in cars are deliberately made to be very imprecise. The gauge stays in the middle at whatever is operating temperature window. 80-100C will have the gauge stay in the middle, probably even higher like 110C will still have the gauge in the middle. Only when things get serious and the airflow and/or fans are inadequate and there's usually a more serious issue will the gauge read higher. For example, I've heard the fan start spinning in many vehicles I've driven. Never saw the temp gauge move because none of the vehicles I've owned had issues with the cooling system. Still, the cooling might be handled more effectively if the fan started spinning a bit earlier when the speed drops. The cooling system itself can be overwhelmed in some extreme cases. I've had the dash read like 110C and climbing to 115C because I was hammering on the bike in 1st and 2nd gear on a very steep and twisty road full of switchbacks while the bike was loaded to the max, probably even overloaded in the middle of summer with air temps around 35C. My fat ass, miss passenger and fully loaded sidecases and topcase. Rough estimate of 220kg load, 240kg bike. VTEC all the way and struggling to keep the front wheel down. Miss passenger said that her lunch started spinning around and I noticed the temp climbing so I slowed down and the bike quickly cooled down to more reasonable temps around 100 as the revs dropped.

Speaking of aesthetically on-point bikes ..(🤭) I'm well on my way piloting the flat-6 couch for its inaugural run across the country to SoCal. A quick glance back east at the Blue Ridge. Stopped at Road Atlanta for MotoAmerica. Kind of surprised to see Big Red here for demo rides. They've skipped all AMA and Barber vintage days I've been to recently. Of course plan to stop at Barber.

Good question. I seem to have the habit of doing it the hard way. I will evade 'being practical' in many activities I undertake (work/hobbies/...). Next to all the disadvantages of this, it does bring a high level of satisfaction (after all the cursing why it always takes so long and so many tools). For example, I wanted RapidBike, since 'the best'/'most functionalities', although it isn't available anymore for a very long time. For some reason this really motivates me to still get it done.

2015 bike, 38,000 miles of which 31,000 were put on before 2020

Springtime 20260418_120400.mp4

Potentially silly question, but why not just cut and lengthen the wires? I did this on my yellow bike when I relocated the OEM ECU. I did it years ago, but I believe I actually just cut the ECU connectors off a second-hand wiring loom to avoid having to mess with crimping all the terminals. Just soldered and heat shrunk (but these days I would probably crimp teeny tiny brass wire splices instead of solder...) Ciao, JZH

Lovely!

Hey everyone, I just got the bike back from the welder and he was able to repair the crack in the sub frame connection. He said that the person that did the repair had a used the broken piece and put a screw on the bottom of the main frame and one on the top and strung baling wire to hold the broke piece attached to the place it fits in and then JB welded the wire and broken piece in place. The welder fabricated a new point of connection out of welded materials which I believe was aluminum weld which makes it stronger than just welding the old broke piece back on the frame. I will attach a picture of the finished job.

Hi all I'm new to this page and came here to search help from vfr experts. So as my title says the fuel pump is not priming when ignition is turned on. And yes I know there is a whole bunch of try this and this. As an educated car mechanic I've been trying them all. The battery is OK The main fuse is OK. Also current flow thru on boat sides. Both the blue and brown connector have been measured and all is good on both sides. All the relays have been checked and just to be sure I have been trying with a brand new relay on all of them still nothing. For the fuel pump itself it's priming once I bypass the fuel cut relay so I assume it's not stucked or anything. Basically the wires from the battery and all the way to the fuel pump and all it's different parts on the way have been measured and checked. I simply cannot find anything that indicates that something is wrong. While the blue connector previously have been giving me a hard time aswell as the wires to the main fuse box, but I fixed that and it have been working fine. Also the bank Angel sensor is by passed after previously issues. The bike was put aside in a warm garage with battery on charging I assume in September last year and last week I was gonna take it for the first spring ride. Unfortunately it wouldn't start and here I stay as of today. So if anybody has any idea or tips what to check or whatever I would be forever very grateful. If not I think it might be time to get a newer one and use this as a part bike. Cause I'm having a really hard time getting ride of this magnificent motorbike. Greetings from Norway Alex

5th gens were made for 4 years, 6th gens for 12 years; lots more 6th gen bits around as a result.