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As mello dude noted, fan should kick in at 103-104C. At 16C mine will run around 85C. at 25C ish its right around 95C on the highway running 75-80 mph.

Up to 2009, 5th & 6th Gen use exact same 2nd master cyl, part numbers are identical. 6th Gen front calipers are no use on a 5th Gen, piped up different & piston sizes & how it's linked is different too. Re: Green check valve in 2nd master cyl. Once master cyls off the bike, pull the piston assembly, remove the bolt off brake pipe union that holds the Green return valve in place, O'ring is all that keeps brake fluid in so don't loose it, ideally replace if you can size match it, note valves orientation (Take pics). To get valve out: Block off the bottom banjo bolt hole, stuff some rag in, blow into piston bore & green valve will just pop out, I wouldn't use an airline, a good blow with mouth is enough (trumpet style) it's not a tight fit, but it is a snug fit, keep a hand over it, if you lose of damage it, you're fucked, you can't buy em & master cyl can't be used without it, you'd never get a fluid seal on the bolt off pipe union, give the insides lots of love, to avoid scratching stuff I use Ice lolly sticks split in half as pokers with paper towel soaked in brake cleaner to get the gunk shifted from the bottom of the piston bore, when all the schmoo is out, I lightly hone the bore with 2000 wet , dry or a grey scotchbrite to ensure a good fluid seal. Green return valve has a filter screen on each side, carefully pry it apart, ball bearing & spring is all that's inside, surgically clean it all, along with the bore it came from, there's a micro hole all the way thru the valve, ensure you see daylight thru it, this is held closed by the ball & spring. If you source a Tourmax repair kit (best available) they come fully assembled, easier to fit to master cyl if you remove the clevis mount from the pushrod. Have fun😊

I have a SuperSprox fitted to my 95 750,it does fit but really needed some 'D' Washers as the Steel outer is stepped.The Sprocket was described as for the VFR800,i bought it as it was reduced ,but no issues with it since fitted.

I'm gonna need something for when the grandson starts wanting to ride.....

Well... they have gotten kinda stupid priced lately, haven't they? I will keep my eyes open. Rustoleum Cherry Red (pictured front fender) is almost a perfect match if you find a decent one that is not broken and not red.

Cool. Thank you. Coming from a CB125R, I thought my arse melting might be an issue😂

Well, I'm in Louisville, KY and I sure could use a red front fender in decent shape. Mine is in 2 pieces thx to the PO. We've been trying to look on ebay but if you have any info on where I might find one, I would very much appreciate it! TIA!

Hi - sounds normal running.. at 104C the fan should be kicking on, I would check that.

Hi. Just picked up my first big bike. A 2000 VFR800. I'm just curious as to what the engine temperature should be. She's running at 101C in slow moving traffic, rising to around 104C. Ambient was around 25C. Moving at a constant 70MPH 'ish', she runs about 95C. Does this sound about right? Just for future reference. Thanks.

Thank you. It's definitely baffled. I hadn't n't even considered the MOT aspect. To be fair, outside of the dealer warehouse, she sounds quite a bit quieter. Only at higher revs do the hounds of hell escape. To be honest, I'm finding the sound a bit intoxicating. I'll definitely have look at those links to see what's what.

Supersprox? They are good, but I dont think they make one for the VFR because of our unique sprocket carrier

I doubt you'd have an issue with that exhaust, as long as it's not too noisy. Even then it depends who does the MoT. My DAM makes a beautiful and loud noise but it's never checked.

Thanks Presson. I am guessing a previous owners fitted longer 92-93 model springs the wrong way round and then forgot where washer 6 went. I will drain forks (again) and relocate washer 6 to top spring after refilling over weekend. Maybe even strip black paint off and respray lower fork legs weather permitting :)

Thank you. You are very helpful. A new 6th Gen SMC will be my last resort due to no availability in new 5th gen SMC. I have read every forum pertaining to the linked brake issues. I am going to take my chances on rebuild kit and removal of the green filter screen. Nobody has mentioned HOW to remove this exactly ? What is the way to remove without damaging. If the answer is compressed air, where do I direct the air exactly ?

Hey everyone, I've made a few modifications based on the guides I've found here. I cut the three wires coming from the stator and replaced them with 12 AWG wires (using crimped connectors and heat shrink tubing). (I read somewhere that this makes a difference due to lower resistance). I also installed a Shindengen SH847 series R/R. I welded a custom bracket for it and mounted it roughly in the same location shown in the pictures on this forum. The positive lead is connected to the battery's positive terminal via a 30A fuse, and the negative lead is grounded to the frame, as many have recommended. I did a quick test at a standstill, revving the engine a bit, and the R/R became scorching hot in about 5-6 minutes. (I understand this is supposedly normal). The frame also got very hot after a few minutes (maybe longer than 5). My question is this: I know this mod should help the stator run cooler, but my R/R got extremely hot. How long can this configuration last? In its current location, it doesn't get much direct airflow while riding. It can only dissipate heat by transferring it to the metal bracket it's bolted to. The bracket is a steel plate (about 2-3mm thick, 10x11cm, covering the R/R's entire surface) attached to a thicker piece of strap iron (about 5mm thick, 6x10cm). This piece should ideally sit flush against the frame, but there's a spacer there, which is necessary for the side and front fairing alignment. I'm not sure if this spacer is a factory part or a hack from the previous owner. However, the frame itself has two raised bosses at the original R/R mounting points, which would have prevented a perfectly flat mount anyway (unless I ground them down). So, I reinstalled it as it was. Because of this, I'm unsure how effective the heat transfer is between my bracket and the frame. I also don't know how much cooling the airflow can actually provide in that spot. So, the real question is: How much heat can the R/R handle in a setup like this? I commute frequently, which means a lot of crawling in city traffic for extended periods, where airflow is minimal anyway. For those of you who have done this modification, how long did your R/R last before it needed replacement (if ever)? I have a separate switch for the radiator fan that I can activate to help with the heat, but that's not a magic bullet. I'm also a bit concerned that the bracket doesn't have a snug fit against the frame, although the original factory mount wasn't perfectly flush either. I'm planning to modify the stator cover to ensure the upper part gets better oil lubrication, so a stator burnout shouldn't be a recurring issue. However, I'm not sure how the R/R will hold up to the heat... I do have a spare MOSFET-type R/R that I can carry with me. In a pinch, I could connect it to the stock plug, and there's enough slack on the new stator wires to mount it. But I'd really like to hear about some real-world experiences. How well has this series R/R solution worked for you, and under what kind of riding conditions? As I said, I use my bike for commuting whenever possible, so it sees a lot more city traffic than open roads. I'm asking because my last long tour ended with the bike dying not far from the border. I had to buy a new battery and basically limp home over several days. Now, I always carry a battery charger in my tank bag, but that's useless if you break down in the middle of nowhere unless you can fix it on the spot. It makes you a bit nervous about heading out on a longer, multi-day trip abroad. Thanks in advance for any insights!

That is a beautiful machine, well done. Have a look at the silencer to see if it's got the BS stamp on it. I'm pretty sure that black widow silencers are not road legal. From new they come with an inlet baffle and a removable dB killer. See If they are fitted. If not you can buy them from black widow. You might well need them for MOT purposes. Alternatively get something like a road legal scorpion can. The black widow system down pipes were compatible with the OEM silencer, so an alternative make ( road legal) should fit without issues provided it's roughly the same shape/diameter. If you want the black widow dB killers see the link below and scroll down to the active links for the 2 types of baffle https://www.blackwidowexhausts.co.uk/silencer-specifications-23-w.asp

Also were do you guy recommend sprockets? I wanted to try those dual sprockets amrhat are lighter than normal but last the same as stock

I am doing a conversion with the swing arm on a Honda Vf750c and the stock sprockets are 16/40 I could go 17/43 if I wanted to have something similar to stock but I always wanted to know if what I asked was possible

Any update on the original question of if 06454-MBG-425 and 06454-MBT-D52 are the interchangeable ?

It could be quality, age, or weight of oil. What do you use and how long (time and miles) do you leave it in there? It could also be rider error or a damaged part.

Curious why. I always get more teeth on the rear of my bikes.

Hello I wanted to ask if there any chance that if the Vfr 750 swingarm is able to take rear sprockets below 43? Like a 42 or 40. Thank you

Nice one m8, the start of a beautiful relationship 🍻

I have this problem when i am shifting from 1st to 2nd to 3rd in high speed it does not like to shift very smoothly, is that something to with the engine oil?

When i got my bike it came with delkevic’s full Exhaust system and a power commander 3, i don’t know whether it has a catalytic converter or not, its not that loud.