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  2. Out whit a friend today hunting twisty road's Only 3 stops, fuel, cafe as a other cafe, can't complain the weather to, excellent
  3. keny

    Anything goes!

  4. Today
  5. Hello, my second season on my beloved VFR 750 RC36-1 from 1990. My second season on wheels at all.. My Viffer have developed a disturbing squeak / squeal? I can hear the cam gear alongside. And I don’t think they are connected. The sound is hard. And “planted” through my body.. like it’s coming inside my neck or head. Opening the visor I can hear it from the bike. Oil level is at max, looks good. and changed in february. I jump around the rpm to provoke. Don’t take the driving seriously. 😂 Chain and sprockets changed 1000km ago, ish. But I doubt that’s the issue since the sound is still present when parked. The sound Can disappear after waiting for a red light. And then appear again after 10 secs. ONLY around 4K rpm. No other symptoms. No oil light. Only rpm has an effect. Clutch lever has no effect My thoughts were vacuum leak at the carbs??? I changed the rubber boots below the carbs, they were like rocks, and the sound went away, for about 2-300 KM, and is now creeping back. I haven't tried re-tightening them yet, and i will try that, but i doubt that's the solution, they can't just go loose? When i start the bike, No weird sounds. when i go for a drive, it drives perfectly especially after the boots were changed. After about 10-15km i can provoke the sound again, heat related? but still drives perfectly, no power loss or "unevenness" easiest way to provoke is to engine brake for a long time, and getting slightly on the gas again. The videos are BEFORE the 4 carp rubber boots were changed. (the boots between intake and carbs.) Now the sound isn't as loud, or consistent, but still creeping worse and worse. Another thing to note in the troubleshooting, the Front right cylinder have not been firing correct the last couple of years, when i got it i thought it ran a little uneven, and rough. Still on all 4 cylinders, but it turned out the spark plug cap was dead, had a loose internal connection, and it was changed a couple thousand km ago. Ran WAY smoother and have more power after 4 new plug caps. Watch the attached IMG_1994.MP4 for the most provoked example. The 1993.MP4 it is still there, but less consistent. IMG_1994.MP4 IMG_1993.MP4
  6. Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to start? Ignition spark at the plugs? Fuel pressure regulator? Blocked injectors? Those are the things I would check Sorry, grasping at straws here. I'm sure others with more experience will chip in.
  7. I had a similar issue, but on the other side of the turn: all of a sudden, in the middle of a clubride after a coffeebreak I couldn’t turn it far enough to the right so couldn’t start anymore. That was the only time she left me stranded. Long story short: took the thing apart and there was one lockpin that wouldn’t move enough due to grease/dirt blocking it. So took out all the lockingpins and cleaned everything thoroughly, lubed it with graphite and problem was solved. But since you’ve tried this also that’s not the issue. Could it be there’s some kind of aligning-issue/misfit of the barrel causing it? Goodluck figuring this out and let us know!
  8. Good morning all, I've been fighting with this replacement lockset for a few days now. My original lock someone tried to break it or something so I replaced it with a cheap one. Recently I've been trying to go over everything and get it all cleaned up and 'nice' for lack of a better term. Bought a replacement OEM (used) lockset and everything works fine except the key won't engage the lock pin. I've pulled it all apart and I'm not seeing anything binding it, I've Frankensteined it with 2 other lowers to test if that was it, I've swapped the pin and the plastic holder thing that attaches to the pin and moves when you turn the key (the one from my original ignition was less worn out than the replacement one) I've used a graphite lube thinking that maybe it was just a stuck tumbler or something. I'm baffled, by all means everything I saw during my surgery of this thing is that there shouldn't be anything binding it up but it still won't turn to lock. Normal operation works totally fine. Off/on/flashers no problem at all. Anyone have any idea?
  9. Hi Danno, Thank you for your donation of 5.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  10. Hi everyone, I have a 2004 VFR800 ABS with very low kilometers in great condition. It has not been ridden for a few years, and has a full tank of fuel with fuel stabilizer. It has a Power Commander and O2 eliminators, but everything else is 100% stock, no PAIR valve mods etc. It has not had the wiring harness recall, or any other recalls etc. I'm going to install a brand new battery in the next few days. Last year when I tried to start it, the motor would turn over, but would not run unless I put a few drops of fuel into the intake, and then only for a short bit. This year who knows, but I’ll report back and thanks so much in advance for any advice you have!
  11. Yesterday
  12. Sorry I wish to ask about the vfr750 1995/6. is there a dedicated relay for the cooling system! I have not asked a question before so If I have interrupted a thread v sorry
  13. View File Official Power Commander 2 Software and Maps - From Dynojet Hi everyone, New here but I thought I should contribute ! Upon request, Dynojet have provided me with the PC2 software, user manual and maps for the VFR. Thought might be useful to some others as well 😁 ! Here's the reply from Dynojet: "While this software is no longer supported by Dynojet, you can still download it here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wb8mQeHeao6_k4xkl6ZswDXyVGhYyWKD/view?usp=sharing It has not been tested with Windows 10, and requires a serial port connection to communicate with those older Power Commander 2/3/3r serial units. The USB to serial adapters, which are common in the marketplace, are also problematic. A true RS-232 serial port is recommended. Also make sure that your serial port is assigned in the port range of 1-8 as our software will not address ports using a higher number than 8. We also attached the Software User Guide to this email for your convenience. You need to have a map open in the software that matches the unit you have, before the software will communicate. I have attached all the map files on a zip file, M101-all.zip for this bike to this email. Please extract the zip file to use the MAP files. Save the maps to your computer, open it in the software, then you should be able to communicate with the unit. The User Guide will have the procedure to send the map. It uses this map to determine what the bike is, and therefore what the data type is coming in." I have successfully tested this on my 5th gen with a CHIPI-X10 RS232-TO-USB converter. Happy tuning ! Submitter ShinyPants101 Submitted 06/06/2025 Category Power Commander Maps  
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  14. Man... you need to use the search bar. How many miles? How does it look? How hard has it been ridden? last time the oil was changed?...... 'Do these bikes have the TOS?' I DUNNO Again, i'm a carb'd street & track rider, so take my advice with a grain of salt... check these things... PLEASE -Sidestand switch- -clutch lever switch- -ignition switch- ^No power loss all the time, just random? ^No dead battery? ^no dimming so it's not the stator or reg/rect... ^smooth or bumpy roads? ^
  15. Just to go over the technique to get it onto the centrestand - once the stand hits the ground you need to simultaneously push down on the centrestand tang and pull up on the little grab handle at the pillion peg. About equal pressure on both, and it comes up and back nicely.
  16. Last week
  17. Canadianvfr750 Posted 3 minutes ago So I'm building up this bike I just got when I try to hook up the battery to attempt to start it only will light up the instrument panel when I push the start button.it will turn over if I jump the relay...but if I try to have this small black relay that's the size of a Lego cube..(two circle on top)... That's the best description I have cause I don't know what it's called or does. If it's plugged in then I blow the starter fuse .....any idea what's the problem? Bike has 20,000km and looks fairly unmolested...any help here would be fantastic.thanks
  18. Sorry I see this is wrong forum
  19. So I'm building up this bike I just got when I try to hook up the battery to attempt to start it only will light up the instrument panel when I push the start button.it will turn over if I jump the relay...but if I try to have this small black relay that's the size of a Lego cube..(two circle on top)... That's the best description I have cause I don't know what it's called or does. If it's plugged in then I blow the starter fuse .....any idea what's the problem? Bike has 20,000km and looks fairly unmolested...any help here would be fantastic.thanks
  20. Try running the front wheel up on a wedge to gain an inch or two. Then pulling onto main stand is a doddle.
  21. Upon request, Dynojet have provided me with the PC2 software, user manual and maps for the VFR. Thought might be useful to some others as well 😁 ! Here's the reply from Dynojet: "While this software is no longer supported by Dynojet, you can still download it here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wb8mQeHeao6_k4xkl6ZswDXyVGhYyWKD/view?usp=sharing It has not been tested with Windows 10, and requires a serial port connection to communicate with those older Power Commander 2/3/3r serial units. The USB to serial adapters, which are common in the marketplace, are also problematic. A true RS-232 serial port is recommended. Also make sure that your serial port is assigned in the port range of 1-8 as our software will not address ports using a higher number than 8. We also attached the Software User Guide to this email for your convenience. You need to have a map open in the software that matches the unit you have, before the software will communicate. I have attached all the map files on a zip file, M101-all.zip for this bike to this email. Please extract the zip file to use the MAP files. Save the maps to your computer, open it in the software, then you should be able to communicate with the unit. The User Guide will have the procedure to send the map. It uses this map to determine what the bike is, and therefore what the data type is coming in." I have successfully tested this on my 5th gen with a CHIPI-X10 RS232-TO-USB converter. All the files they provided are attached to this thread and I also started a new map file here (pending approval as of today): PCII_SOFTWARE_AND_MAPS.zip
  22. Version 1.0.0

    0 downloads

    Hi everyone, New here but I thought I should contribute ! Upon request, Dynojet have provided me with the PC2 software, user manual and maps for the VFR. Thought might be useful to some others as well 😁 ! Here's the reply from Dynojet: "While this software is no longer supported by Dynojet, you can still download it here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wb8mQeHeao6_k4xkl6ZswDXyVGhYyWKD/view?usp=sharing It has not been tested with Windows 10, and requires a serial port connection to communicate with those older Power Commander 2/3/3r serial units. The USB to serial adapters, which are common in the marketplace, are also problematic. A true RS-232 serial port is recommended. Also make sure that your serial port is assigned in the port range of 1-8 as our software will not address ports using a higher number than 8. We also attached the Software User Guide to this email for your convenience. You need to have a map open in the software that matches the unit you have, before the software will communicate. I have attached all the map files on a zip file, M101-all.zip for this bike to this email. Please extract the zip file to use the MAP files. Save the maps to your computer, open it in the software, then you should be able to communicate with the unit. The User Guide will have the procedure to send the map. It uses this map to determine what the bike is, and therefore what the data type is coming in." I have successfully tested this on my 5th gen with a CHIPI-X10 RS232-TO-USB converter. Happy tuning !
  23. Fitted my helibars. Needed some modifying, extra holes drilling. Also quite expensive and had to pay import tax. Worth it I think for the extra comfort for under 5ft11 guys or girls. And I’m an all year round biker. Thanks for the advice
  24. Thanks Lorne - much appreciated! Kit has been delivered (currently at the job,itching to get my hands on it to get a looknat the instructions if nothing else) I do have longer throttle & choke cables coming from Japan (Same ones that come with the Hurricane police kit - the bar that comes with the abm kit is pretty similar so should be good on that front,though that said : I've to disconnect the cables either way so a reroute may be required with the Oem anyway...🤷) The kit is supposed to work with all oem cables and hoses,without cutting the fairing too. I'd really like to replace all the brake lines due to them being 27 yrs old, but of a daunting task if I'm honest and the pricey with it but braking ain't something to ever skimp on! Will see what way to proceed when the stuff from Japan lands.
  25. Cool Idea! I'm personally not sold on steering dampeners just yet, but more power to ya! If you figure this out it would be valuable to the forums for sure!
  26. No, but seriously, on occasion my 5th gen's motor will stop running for a very short interval. With one exception, there's no one factor that is consistent. It'll stutter in any gear, at any speed or RPM level. It doesn't matter whether or not the engine is up to temp. It *has* happened as I've been slowing down and coming to a stop, but it has never happened when I start the bike and it's idling or if I'm at a stop and idling. It doesn't matter if the road is smooth or rough, although it's a lot more taxing on rough roads. Sometimes it'll only hiccup once. Other times it'll feel like the bike is shuddering. It gets exciting when it happens as I'm going around a corner or turning at low speed. The reason I believe it to be an electronics problem, as opposed to fuel is that all 4 cylinders drop out simultaneously. If it was an injector or dirty gas, I would expect it to run rough instead of dropping out completely It's also been occurring long enough that it's happened with many different tanks of gas. I use ethanol-free 87, which I get from 2 different stations that are near to me. There are other stations on the island that carry ethanol-free gas, but like I said, I don't think the issue is fuel. There's no other electrical issue that occurs, like dimming lights or the clock resetting, so it's not a major grounding issue. The injectors share a ground, though, along with the intake duct control solenoid valve, which I'm pretty sure I've disconnected. I've even swapped out the ECM. Any cogent thoughts are welcome.
  27. Hi Matey. Electrical gremlins are a real pain sometimes. What's Batt voltage fully charged/ not connected? should be 12.8V, any less & battery's either a duff unit or charger's shagged, test an hr after charging, batt needs to be cool. What's Batt voltage connected? What's Batt voltage tested at with meter Negative on right side chassis ground point & meter Positive on Batt Positive? What Batt voltage, tested with meter Positive on starter side of starter relay & meter Negative on Batt Negative? What's Batt voltage tested at starter with ignition "ON", meter Positive on starter & meter Negative on Batt Negative? What's Batt voltage tested at starter with ignition "ON", meter Positive on starter Positive & meter Negative on starter body? What's Batt voltage tested at starter with ignition "ON", meter Positive on starter Positive & meter Negative on engine near starter ground? All quick/easy but vital tests that will highlight any gremlins in an ageing loom. How are you testing the Stators output voltage? How have you wired Stator & R&R up? It's highly likely you have some corrosion in chassis ground somewhere, have you checked the orange multi-ground block taped into the loom just forward of the R&R? Warm bike up first, Test charge voltage at battery @ idle & @5,000rpm, ensure lights are on main beam, system needs a load for correct testing, what voltages are you seeing? Do same charge output test with meter ground lead on right side chassis ground & Batt positive, follow main earth lead from battery, it should go direct to starter motor body, remove starter & clean to bare metal where starter & motor touch, clean ground cable (both ends) while ground cable is off starter & battery, Ohms test cable, any high resistance, cable is done & needs replacing, buy a length to 8AWG multi-stand copper earth lead, don't waste money on that chinese tinned wire crap on sale thru eBay, buy proper copper cabling, use new crimp on connectors if you can source the angled type that's fitted or re-use old ones if they've not gone brittle, but they need to be cleaned up like new. Add some of this anti corrosion paste to your toolbox, it'll 100% stop new copper cable corroding inside the crimps, you can use it inside any crimps on copper multi-strand, just paint it into copper wire with an old toothbrush & crush fit crimps, if you plan to solder em as well as crimp, don't use anything other than acid flux or it won't solder, you'll need a blow torch, keep all cable below torch & heat the crimp connector only, solder will wick the crimp, no solder iron will be hot enough. https://www.heamar.co.uk/ideal-30-024-1-2oz-tube-of-noaloxr-anti-oxidant-compound.html? Let us know how you get on?
  28. Haha, I know. But my other bikes weigh like half of what the VFR does. And I'm a gadget guy, so I have to do it. Even if it's not needed, I want to have the ability to pop it on there.
  29. My VFR is an '09 Vtec but is similar enough that my install solutions may help you. I chose a set of ST1300 cables that are about 4"/100mm longer. Rerouting the clutch & brake hoses behind the fork tube gave plenty of slack. I was able to move the brake reservoir intact, but there wasn't quite enough space for the clutch. Here are the details: Yet Another Lil Handlebar install- 6th gen
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    1. med_gallery_491_3463_298783.jpg

      Juniper Pass

      I took a day off from work and also from my bicycle training to take out the Veefalo one last time before the weather turns ugly, supposed to snow the rest of the week and possibly start sticking to the ground along the Colorado Front Range. I took a leisurely pace up hwy 105 toward Morrison and got reacquainted with the bike since its been over a month since I took any sort of twisties on it at all, hwy 105 is a scenic ride along the front range between Denver and Colorado Springs, its mostly easy fast sweepers and lite traffic so its a favorite road of mine when going north. Then I have to negotiate a bit of traffic near Highlands ranch and up hwy 470 into the mountains. I decided to take the Morrison Exit and try either Lookout Mountain or head up Golden Gate Canyon - this time it was Lookout Mountain, I was sort of making it up on the fly as I went along. Lookout Mountain is my old bicycling haunt from my days while I was working at Coors, its a killer ride and all uphill - I don't think I could do it today If I had to, not quite there yet! I saw a whole bunch of riders doing it though and wished I was in shape enough to be there doing it as well. 30 more lbs and I will be able to do it! On this day I would do it on the Veefalo instead.

       

       

       

       

      I took a video from the gateway to the top at the Lookout Mountain State Park, getting past riders, the guy in the green jacket actually pretty much astounded me with how far he had gotten in the short time it took me to set up my camera, some 3 miles at least and up to the gateway from the turn off at hwy 6! Amazing I thought. I took the first two turns slow then got more comfortable as I went up further, till I was doing well, I made some gearing mistakes and took the tight 15mph marked hairpins in the wrong gear so I lugged it a bit on one or two. Still enjoyed it though and then got off at the top and hiked over a rock outcropping for an overview of the road for the pictures below.

       

       

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      Lookout Mountain - Golden Colorado

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      Zoomed in

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      Lookout Mountain Park top of the mountain

      From there I headed up interstate 70 to Idaho Springs for a beer at the Tommy-knockers brewery, I was the only customer in the joint - slow day for them so they treated me like a king! I got a nice tour of the place sort of impromptu, they made me a nice Pastrami sandwich on rye and with the brown ale it was fantastic. I must say the beer is much better there than in the bottles - its always good at the brewery. I am glad I stopped

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      Tommy-knockers Brewpub Idaho Springs

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      Idaho Springs Colorado

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      Mashtuns and fermenters

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      Rows of fermenters

      I finished my lunch and since the road to Mount Evans is right there I headed up Squaw pass hoping to get in some nice pictures I wasn't expecting what I found, ICE IN ALL THE SHADY PARTS

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      Icy patches on Squaw Pass definitely taking it easy on that road

      There were some section where the ice covered the whole road for 300 yards or so I had to roll through it with my legs out to help keep the bike from sliding and falling over, I took it real slow. A Ford pickup was right behind me so I pulled over to let him pass but the guy was going slower then even I was so I pressed on - in places where I could see I just cut over to the oncoming lane and out of the ice where the sun was shining on the road more, but some places there was not alternative so I just had to go slow, good thing it wasn't slick but rather they tossed some gravel over the worst parts so I had some traction!

      I did stop for pictures in all the best spots

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      Echo Lake at Mount Evans showing off my new plate

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      Elephant Butte Park and Denver

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      Close up

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      Veefalo on Squaw Pass

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      Juniper Pass

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      Juniper Pass

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      Mount Evans

      My route A is home B is Tommy-knockers

       

    2. martinkap
      Latest Entry

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      Not that it matters and not that I expect anyone had noticed, but to those who sent me "where are you?" I would like to say I am back. Not only that I am officially returning to VFRD after nearly 2 months break but I have also ridden my Hawk last weekend and had FUN! Let me restate that; I had major fun riding! Something I have almost given up on.

      Most of you have been riding your whole adult lives and riding is not only a hobby to you, it is part of you. But I started riding three years ago and even though I have encounter some setbacks, till this spring I loved riding with whole my heart. However, I have always considered riding as my hobby. As a hobby which suppose to make my life better, more fun and more rich. Life is too short to do something which we don't fully love.

      My love of riding received a first major scar this spring: I lost a friend on the racetrack. He was a total stranger who offered me his help after I lowsided at CMP track last year. I still remember hearing his "Hi, my name is Todd, do you need help?" while I was duct-taping my roadrash from ripped jacket. He helped me straighten up the shifter and we kept in touch. The next time we saw each other was the day he died.

      With 9 months delay, I can say that Todd's death shook me more than I have realized. It rooted fear in me which was fueled by seeing and hearing about others getting hurt over and over again. If I was to summarize this year - it would be one big accident report. I became sensitive to every broken bone, every roadrash, every lowside. And even though I did 10 track days this year, I became slower and slower and slower. Suddenly, I have acquired this 'grandma' riding style on the road, frozen with fear that behind every corner there is car standing in my lane, or major sand trap or deer staring at me ... I was crippled with fear not only for me about also for my fellow rider.

      So, at the end of this year, I rode more and more by myself. I could not bear the feelings of responsibility for others on the road and my lines were crippled by my own fears. It all culminated this fall at WDGAH. In a freaky accident Love2rideh82crash was taken down by a truck crossing into our lane. I was done. I finished the weekend, locked the VFR into a garage and took a break.

      Until the last weekend, I pretended that motorcycles do not exists. As a last instance after 2 months break from riding, I decided to go to CMP track to see if I can still have fun. I also felt like I should go for the memory of Todd. I went and I had fun! I had much more fun than I expected and the most fun on track I can remember. Suddenly the whole track connected into an uninterupted line of turns and I felt one with the bike riding around! I was giggling like a little girl in my helmet and keep on giggling ever since smile.gif

      Granted I was not the fastest one and through out the weekend, I have never exceeded about 60% of my riding abilities, but I had no "oh-shit" nor 'blond' moments. I could have maybe go faster, I could have brake later for the turns and I could have lean further, but I am no Rossi nor Stoner. I decided to ride for fun and I had amazing blast riding well within my comfort zone.

      I was proud of myself when, after bandaging Ricks arm, I was able to distance myself and go back to riding without the year-long fear. I did feel bad for him but the feelings were not crippling my lines nor my mind. And when a total stranger came to me and said "Hi, my name is Todd", my heart stopped for a minute though but I suddenly knew that my life went a full circle. I probably will never win MotoGP :idea3: , but I am back! :wheel:

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